Don’t let the word put you off. Ignore the naysayers, those white-shirt-and-chino folks stuck in their safe sartorial routine of sameness, and see the jumpsuit for what it actually is: functional design, now with a strong, stylish twist. Pull one on and you’ve instantly got attitude; it’s unfussy, it’s oozing nonchalant ease and it’s saying you don’t care whether people get it or not.
“The jumpsuit is a simple, practical yet versatile piece that can be worn in a number of ways,” Browns Menswear Buyer Lee Goldup explains. “Drawing its inspiration from workwear, the one-piece is a lot easier to pull off than most men think and about the most comfortable item you can wear.”
If you’re still not sure, answer me this: is the late Paul Newman still considered a beacon of cool? Does Pharrell always have the strongest look on any red carpet? How about GQ Italia’s Fashion Editor Simone Monguzzi? All dominating the style charts, and – you guessed it – all masters of wearing the all-in-one.
We’ve seen iterations in the men’s shows for many seasons and spring 2018 is the time to make the look yours. The secret, as with any new experience, is to start simple. Step one: choose a straight – not skinny – style in a neutral block shade.
At Lanvin, Lucas Ossendrijver nailed it right off the bat. The first look out on his runway was in pebble grey, a jumpsuit layered over a white T-shirt and topped with an overcoat. The sleeves were roughly pulled up, the front was unzipped down to the waist. It looked right. Divide the outfit up and you can take your tips straight from its styling manual; a trio of complementary colours, layered up and then left slightly undone for that easy, rough edge.
Ossendrijver has made sophisticated, modern, slightly askew luxury his calling card for many seasons – indeed, Lanvin’s second-ever menswear collection back in 2006 featured a stone jumpsuit, proving just how timeless and unlimited its appeal is. It’s a good place to start.
Miuccia made a similar statement at Prada. Single shades reigned overall, in black, marl grey or dark blue. Layered looks, again, were at the core, with shirt collars popped on graphic-printed tops. Sleeves were pushed far up the arm for a real workman vibe, and appeared throughout the 44-look line-up – Ms Prada even told Vogue.com’s Luke Leitch that jumpsuits are her last obsession. Hey, if it’s good enough for Prada…
If playing it safe isn’t your bag, then let prints and patterns introduce a more graphic slant to proceedings. Here, silhouette really is key. Too slim, and visions of Ziggy Stardust circa 1972 will start to swim before your eyes, so keep it on the looser side of things. We’d suggest taking your cue from Missoni.
Second-generation heir to the family business and current Creative Director Angela Missoni picked out the straight-cut boiler suit from her spring/summer 2018 collection as her favourite piece, and, composed of 137 different coloured threads, it’s up there on our hit list too. There is colour, but it doesn’t feel riotous, while the pared-back silhouette gives a lived-in charm to a look best finished with worn-in leather sandals or lattice slip-ons. No surprises, this also came unbuttoned with a striped T-shirt peeking out from below.
From Missoni in Milan to Alexander McQueen in Paris, where Sarah Burton’s almost painfully hypnotic show was a feat of couture-like craftsmanship. A fastidious attention to detail ran across the collection, and two pieces from the set really caught our attention. A pair of contrasting jumpsuits –
one in off-white, the other in indigo denim – were turned up at the cuffs and printed with a flowing script of Rudyard Kipling’s The Explorer. Trailing them, strands of scarlet thread.
This duo takes the jumpsuit trend to a new level. Worn – as per the runway styling – with laced leather boots (try black), they feel new and urgently cool. Thanks to the powerful print and crimson decoration, they’re not for everyone, but that – like all things style – is the great thing about the trend as a whole; there’s no right or wrong, it’s all about what makes you feel good.
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