As I surveyed the frenzy that erupted online following Timothée Chalamet‘s Wonka reveal, I couldn’t help but wonder: what exactly is it about the actor that sends onlookers into such hysterics?
Before I begin, I’d like to clarify that this is not a critique of Chalamet’s acting chops, which are objectively good. Nor is it a jab at Chalamet’s fandom, a sizeable portion of which is made up of teenage girls, a demographic that’s often unfairly painted as unsophisticated and cringe-y.
Instead, it’s an honest inventory of the actor’s style, frequently lauded by fashion publications (including ours, at times) as some sort of sartorial second coming.
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On the red carpet, Chalamet’s ‘fits are a mixed bag — not entirely surprising, given that he doesn’t work with a stylist.
His watershed moment took place at the 2019 Venice Film Festival, where he fêted The King in a silvery gray Haider Ackermann suit. Paired with leather boots, it was a softly tailored ensemble that solidified the actor’s newly minted spot at the forefront of what many dubbed a new era for Hollywood masculinity.
Since then, Ackermann has continued to dress Chalamet, with varying levels of success. Most recently, the legendary designer outfitted the actor for the Met Gala in a way-too-cropped tuxedo jacket, which Chalamet paired with baggy Rick Owens sweatpants and high-top Converse.
It was, in my mind, a disjointed look: black tie on top and bodega run on the bottom.
Another recent ensemble, Chalamet’s silver-gold Tom Ford suit looked sleek layered over a collarless shirt, but missed the mark when accessorized with a pair of Ray-Ban Wayfarers (his favorite shades, it seems).
And his internet-breaking 2019 Golden Globes outfit, which starred a sequined Louis Vuitton harness, was, in short, a reach.
Off the carpet, Timmy kinda dresses like your average Nolita local. He’s got the gold chain (from New Top Jewelry, perhaps?), designer sweatpants, and culturally clued-in headwear (Elara Pictures cap, Gem Spa beanie) on lock.
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In retrospect, the actor dabbles in a wardrobe fairly similar to Pete Davidson‘s, a look that brands both of them as dudes who bop around to Café Leon Dore, then to Dimes, and maybe to Balthazar for a seafood tower.
To jog your memory: there was Chalamet’s shearling Saint Laurent jacket, lovely by itself but rather un-magical when worn over a gray hoodie. And don’t forget his Prada Moment, less Teen Boy Ready For a Basement Gaming Sesh but still a far cry from Frank Ocean’s mastery of the label.
Last but certainly not least, we have his Paris Fashion Week look, featured at the top of this article. For some reason, he decided to wear a backpack to Haider Ackermann’s Fall/Winter 2020 runway show where he sat front row, wedged between Japanese painter Setsuko Klossowska de Rola and fellow actor Kevin Mischel.
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Chalamet’s style isn’t groundbreaking, but he manages to make headlines nearly every time he’s snapped by the paparazzi. In 2019, Vogue even declared him the “most influential man in fashion.” (Excuse me?)
A talented actor, yes. Charismatic, sure. But the most influential man in fashion? I simply don’t see it.