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Brand: Martine Rose
Season: Fall/Winter 2021
Key Pieces: Hold on a minute, are those popper-track-pants-slash-cowboy-chaps!? I wonder what the young team back home in Scotland would make of those.
Release Date: TBC
Buy: Martine Rose
Editor’s Notes: A typical Martine Rose collection inevitably delivers two things: shit hot tailoring and plenty of Easter eggs for those who love their old-school British clobber. This effort is no exception. There’s a quilted coat that kind of looks like an undertaker’s Barbour (look one); an oversized anorak (look nine) that is a nod to ’90s Manchester outdoor label Sprayway; and, if my spidey senses are correct, what might be a high fashion take on the infamous Nickelson polo shirt (look 21). In amongst all that you’ll find the usual smattering of ravey neon turtlenecks and broad-shouldered suits.
Maybe I’m biased as a Brit, but it’s hard to think of many (if any) designers more adroit than Martine when it comes to translating their background and lived experiences into contemporary clothing. It’s a nostalgia trip, sure, but never sentimental, instead offering a glimpse into the future using references you’d long since forgotten about. The best designer in the world? She’s getting closer every time.