With the world-stopping Fear of God collabo in the rearview, Ermenegildo Zegna and its XXX sub-label are marching ever forward. Artistic director Alessandro Sartori has overseen the label’s latest luxurious and louche lineup (alliteration!), comprising a parade of radiant looks glistening with jewel tones and relaxed cuts.
Typically masculine suiting is undercut with enormous proportions, refined to an extreme degree. One baby blue coat is made casual by two enormous patch pockets and snap buttons, while others swap lapels and conventional closure for an internal belt system that screams vacation mode. Throughout, work and sport cues intermingle, as woven anoraks, boxy chore coats, and billowing boilersuits march alongside loose gauge sweaters as spiffy as the shorts are, well, short.
Alessandro Sartori“My aim at Zegna is to create an accord between the essence of tailoring and the rhythm of the modern world. What I have done is a rewiring of luxury crafting, following a flow that frees the man while keeping the distinctiveness, offering pieces that are easy to wear as they are inventive. Effortlessness is the key.”
Padded Jackets
It’s one thing to remake the classic overshirt; it’s another thing entirely to rebirth it in exquisite washed and padded silk. The garment is a suitable representation of Zegna’s overarching aims, wherein the Italian brand transforms conventional clothing by way of unparalleled opulence. Thickening a boxy layering piece is also just an appealing idea, as it makes for an easy transitional season toss-on.
High-Rise Pants
There’s much to be gained from observing past menswear trends, and even more to be gained from leaving many behind. One that should never have left, however, is the high-rise trouser. Zegna delivers a variety of slouchy slacks that boast suitably tall rises, demonstrating the inherent versatility of the style. Not only does it make you look like an extra in a noir film (or Glen Gould), but the embiggened rise is extraordinarily comfortable, ideal year-round but especially for summer when the temps demand lounging.