Meet 29-year-old Sourabh Gupta, a self-taught multidisciplinary designer, artist, and a trained architect, who has his roots in Hiranagar Jammu and Kashmir. Where most might ask the question ‘Where do we find it?’ He is driven to ask “How do we make it?” Growing up devoid of resources, if Sourabh wanted something – he needed to design it and create it himself with materials found in his vicinity. This resulted in his ability in seeing possibilities in all materials and putting an emphasis on craftsmanship in his executions be it architecture, pottery, sculpture, painting, carpentry, or paper and many more. With a degree in architecture from School of Architecture and Landscape Design, Jammu and Kashmir, he later went to New York on a scholarship program to study at The New School, Parsons New York. He has subsequently been commissioned to do work for prominent New York art figures as well as Hudson Yards, Tory Burch (Met Gala 2019). In a candid interview, he talks about his path-breaking Met Gala 2019 creation and more. Excerpts from the interview:
SOURABH GUPTA, You recently worked on Tory Burch’s gown that had 300 handmade flowers for Met Gala 2019. How did you bag the project?
I must admit that I did not know much about the Met Gala until I was approached with this opportunity. Tory Burch’s Designer (Director of Embellishment and Embroidery) reached out to me through my Instagram. He had seen some of my recent works there and called me for a meeting at Tory’s office. I met with the directors and designer and went to my studio and came back to them with a series of samples. At that time, I was not aware it was for her gown. I just knew they intended to construct a dress incorporating the flowers. It wasn’t until the day before that I found out that the flowers would be the basis of her gown.
SOURABH GUPTA, We could see a lot of handmade flowers on the outfit. What was the thought process behind the outfit detailing, how was the journey and if there were any hardships during the process?
There were about three hundred handmade flowers on the dress. The idea that we were trying to recreate was that of dried pressed flowers in a glass frame. To create that effect in material, we used an almost see-through fabric. We started at a very different place with a very colourful and different mix of flowers. And after a series of rigorous sample makings and presentations, the final decision was made to make 300 small daisies each under an inch size. The flowers were completely handmade, where each petal was attached individually to the centres that were hand cut, moulded and water coloured. I had to use tweezers to handle the petals as they were so tiny and delicate. The challenge was the deadline. Once the decision on the direction was nailed down, I only had 3 days to handcraft 300 daisies.
One dream collaboration that you wish to happen in 2019 and what will be so special about it?
The dream collaboration for 2019 will be with Thomas Heatherwick (Britsh Designer/maker), whose process and products are extraordinary. He would work with me on a product or a space design or both (laughs). He is the one person whose work and thought process I resonate entirely.
SOURABH GUPTA, What will be so special about it?
It would be for the first time that I would collaborate with someone who approaches an art piece as I do. Craftsmanship is paramount, but at the core, it is less about which medium is used and more about the solution. The special thing about it is that art, design and architecture all will come together and when it comes together it is magical.
SOURABH GUPTA, Is there any Indian designer with whom you would like to collaborate?
Yes, there are two people (Ashiesh Shah and Rooshad Shroff), with whom I would like to work and had been following them closely. I came across Rooshad Shroff’s work about 2 years ago and since then had been following his work closely. I have a great appreciation for his work and the way he is reinventing Indian crafts and making them fit broader landscapes. I would welcome collaborating with him as ‘I believe’ our sensibilities are shared. Additionally, it would be rewarding to work with the local artisans of Jammu and Kashmir along with him and aim to work towards the reinterpretation of the incredible craft industry of my home state.
SOURABH GUPTA, Tell us about other collaborations you are working at present?
I am learning more than ever here and am surrounded by incredibly creative people. I have been working on a project with Brian Sawyer- a partner at Sawyer Bergson, a New York-based design firm that works in architecture, interiors and landscape. He is an avid collector and gardener and we are currently in discussions about recreating specimens from his extensive garden in the sculpted paper. I’m also working on a massive project that entails a floating vessel.
SOURABH GUPTA, Your Instagram account says- An architect, designer and a maker. How do you create a balance between all?
I just read a great article recently which actually talks about how architects should be polymaths and not just specialists. The article is titled “The Beautiful Drawings of Michelangelo Show Us Why Architects Should Be Polymaths, Not Specialists” by Duo Dickson. And I encourage others to also understand that architecture is not an exclusive creative profession. When it comes to working, it involves every bit of me and works as a balancing factor in whatever I am doing.
There are a lot of handmade flowers, pottery and bags too. Comment.
I needed a backpack, so I designed one. I needed a pot for my chai, so I made one. I grew up in a house with no windows so to make it beautiful I would make paper and fabric and any discard material flowers for the real ones would not grow or survive there. If I need it, I make it. The “what/ why” is not important. The how (the design, craftsmanship, beauty) are. Think of it as an author who loves words, he can construct them to woo a lover or liberate a country. Physical creations are my words.
SOURABH GUPTA, Where do you see yourself in the next 5 years?
Solving more critical problems creatively, connecting with the extremely talented creative industry of Jammu and Kashmir, help to find direction for reinventing the identity of arts and crafts and good designs. I want to involve myself in more of the cross-disciplinary stuff on a bigger scale. In total, I see myself collaborating with great people in every aspect of my life. That’s why I exist!
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