On February 11th, New York fashion week returned and blessed us all with the latest collections of the city’s veterans, some fresh faces and enticing guest appearances.
Here is our picks of the most memorable shows from the day 4 of New York Fashion Week:
Carolina Herrera
Carolina Herrera’s Wes Gordon showed his autumn 2022 collection on Valentine’s Day – aptly so, considering how romantic the whole show was. Gordon embraced florals, 1960s-inspired silhouettes and dramatic shapes – a tribute, perhaps, to the designer’s time at Oscar de la Renta. Some looks read as an ode to Mrs Herrera herself, of course, like the fitted peplum shirt with a dramatic floor-length fuchsia skirt or the bishop-sleeve coat, for example. The piece that stood out was the baby-pink mini dress with floating bra cups and a baroque tulle train.
Laquan Smith
It’s official: low waists are back. In his Autumn 2022 show, Laquan Smith introduced a rulebook on how to interpret the cult early-aughts trend the modern way (not without the help of a certain supporting actress who’s been spending her time with a certain controversial rapper). Smith decorated his fables bodysuits with hip bone cutouts and styled them with the lowest-sitting pants this season. Vinyl made an appearance, of course, however, unlike in the last couple of collections, it served as a tasteful accent, accentuating the textural complexity of other materials like lycra, vinyl and sequins.
Dion Lee
Dion Lee devised an army of sci-fi knights to present his Autumn 2022 collection, and what a joy it was to take in! In reinventing his signature precisely-constructed corsets, Lee took a step away from lacing and opted for leather and shearling(!) panels instead. Lace gimp suits in red and blue were a bold choice that, among a largely neutral-toned lineup, stood out like a star antagonist of an anime arc. A couple of menswear looks presented embraced androgynous sensuality with asymmetric skirts and bodysuits with triangular masks embedded in them.
Tory Burch
The once-boho-chic-haven Tory Burch, embodied the new-gen sexiness this season, and fans couldn’t get enough of it. Calculated risks were taken by Honor Brodie that paid off: the high-waisted technical harem pants that flowed into tight bustiers read as an Upper-East-Sidian take on the phenomena of covid-induced sweatpants culture. Asymmetric abstract prints on skin-tight dresses gracefully forayed into the risk focus of the collection that, in its very heart, was a love letter to the city of New York and its women.
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