Celebrity Life

Subtlety was never one of Bulgari’s stronger suits and this boldness would come to define the brand’s distinct aesthetic. Its heritage curator Lucia Boscaini explains to us how the maison has remained faithful to its roots while keeping its sights trained on the future.

Show-stopping, unapologetic and magnificently audacious – such were Bulgari’s high jewellery pieces in the past and so they remain today. The Italian brand is known for going where many established and historic jewellery maisons dare not, as we see in its use of vivacious colour combinations and daringly unconventional designs, with the ultimate objective of achieving maximum impact.

We had a glimpse of this brilliance at the recent Master of Colours Heritage & High Jewellery Exhibition held in Hong Kong in August, where Bulgari brought in some of its most prized and storied jewels from its archives. Many of the pieces displayed were from the 1950s to the 1960s, a period that proved to be a turning point for the brand in establishing its unique aesthetic.

Lucia Boscaini, brand and heritage curator for Bulgari, explains that it was in the mid-1950s that the brand began to truly forge its unmistakeable – and unapologetically Italian – style, such that designs were big, daring and, unlike most jewellery at the time, used yellow gold and a copious amount of cabochon-cut stones in a variety of colours. “These were the founding elements of what we love to call ‘Bulgari’s revolution’ in the jewellery universe,” she says. “At that time, the dominating French school of jewellery dictated that only a single coloured stone could be mounted on a jewel – and mostly on platinum and, almost always, paired with diamonds.

[caption id="attachment_212214" align="alignnone" width="1024"] Part of the Bulgari Heritage collection, which to date has more than 800 pieces from the late 19th century to early 200s. (Image: Bulgari)[/caption]

“As years went by, Bulgari’s passion for colour experimentation included semiprecious and hard stones. Regardless of the intrinsic value of the gems, Bulgari’s aesthetic research was focused on impactful yet very balanced juxtapositions that expressed a joyful and effortless elegance. Hence also the predilection for yellow gold – less pompous and more wearable than platinum – which perfectly embodies the warm, sunny and colourful facet of Bulgari’s Italian style.”

Bulgari’s love for colour was evident, even in its earlier pieces. “The larger-than-life attitude and the colours’ energy just takes over the jewel. The pieces are incredibly vivacious yet balanced, in the unmistakable alchemy that only Bulgari can bring,” Boscaini says. There were magnificent examples of these vibrant pieces at the exhibition, such as the 1967 necklace and earring set made in gold and platinum, and set with emeralds, rubies, sapphires and diamonds. It showcases one of Bulgari’s most favoured colour combination: red, green and blue.

The set was once part of the collection of Brazilian socialite Carmeno Mayrink Veiga, who in the mid-1950s was considered one of the most elegant women in the country; in a 1981 issue of Vanity Fair she appeared on a list of the most stylish women in the world. This attention-grabbing parure was later worn by Keira Knightley at the Academy Awards ceremony in 2006.

[caption id="attachment_212216" align="aligncenter" width="1024"] Gold and platinum necklace set with emeralds, rubies, sapphires, and diamonds (1967), once owned by Brazilian socialite Carmen Mayrink Veiga. (Image: Bulgari)[/caption]

There was also the spectacular yellow-gold necklace set with a medley of gemstones, including emeralds, diamonds, amethysts and turquoises, which once belonged to American socialite and It-girl Lyn Revson, a one-time wife of the founder of the make-up giant Revlon. “This was testament to our belief that, regardless of the intrinsic value, we would combine semiprecious and high-value stones for the sake of an impactful chromatic effect. This is the colour revolution introduced by Bulgari that subverted the rules in jewellery and marking a watershed in the decades to come,” Boscaini says of this piece.

To date, the Bulgari Heritage collection has more than 800 creations from the late 19th century to the early 2000s, which aside from jewellery includes watches and objects made in gold – cigarette cases, vanity cases and evening bags. And because Bulgari’s objective is to illustrate the evolution of the Bulgari style and craftsmanship over the decades and in the most complete way possible, its heritage department has more than 60,000 documents, vintage photographs and original sketches, as well as editorials and historical advertising campaigns in its archives.

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“An archive traces the history of a company, because only with a deep knowledge of our past can we build an aware future. There are some sketches or jewellery creations in the archives that represent unexpected experimentations – and they’re crucial, too, to better understand how the style evolved to finally achieve Bulgari’s strong identity. Moreover, the thousands of sketches we have are fundamental to state the authenticity of the pieces we find at auctions or from private collectors. In some cases, we only have the sketch in our archive but, as you can imagine, a sketch is a hypothesis of a jewel and we can never be sure that jewel has been produced until we see it in front of us. This is true in particular for jewels from the 1920s and 1930s, when often the mark wasn’t present.”

Boscaini and her team have a mandate to locate and buy back heritage pieces from major auction houses and private collectors around the world. “The buy-back process never stops. Of course, we have budgetary constraints and we can’t buy whatever we want! Following an accurate gap analysis, every year, we decide how to focus our research. Having said this, the ‘surprise factor’ is always around the corner, so it might happen that a jewel we’ve been searching for over decades suddenly appears – and in this case we’re set to ‘fight’ to have the jewel ‘back home’. It always comes with great emotion whenever we have a much-coveted jewel joining the Heritage Collection, and excited and happy for the people who will admire it.”

[caption id="attachment_212219" align="aligncenter" width="1024"] Legendary model Verushka shot by Vogue US in 1969 wearing the 860mm-long Bulgari sautoir featuring a 127.35-carat, heart-shaped emerald pendant and a chain set with rubies, amethysts, citrines, topazes, turquoise, emeralds and diamonds (1969). (Image: Bulgari)[/caption]

One of the exciting finds Boscaini is referring to was included in this exhibition – a 1969 sautoir that features an astounding 127.35-carat, heart-shaped emerald pendant, with a chain set with cabochon rubies, amethysts, citrines, topazes, turquoise and emeralds, and enhanced with brilliant-cut diamonds. “This magnificent sautoir is a jewel so representative of the house’s unbridled creativity in the late 1960s and 1970s; it’s an explosion of colour and so exuberant also in terms of size, as the chain is 860mm long,” she says.

After years of searching for the piece – and just when hope started to wane – it emerged at a Sotheby’s auction in Geneva in 2018. An intense bidding war ensued and Bulgari acquired the piece, which was once owned by an affluent woman called Patricia Bemberg, who’s now 93 and lives in Switzerland. The extraordinary piece was a gift from her husband while they were in Rome to celebrate their 23rd wedding anniversary. In 1969, it was worn by legendary model Verushka for a shoot that was published by Vogue US.

[caption id="attachment_212221" align="aligncenter" width="709"] Elizabeth Taylor wears her Bulgari 23.44-carat step-cut emerald brooch (1958) on the set of the film The VIPs. (Image: MGM/ Photofest)[/caption]

Craftsmanship and design aside, provenance also gives the jewel its very special charm and value. The Bulgari Heritage collection does include several pieces that belonged to stars such as Elizabeth Taylor, Anna Magnani, Gina Lollobrigida, Anita Ekberg and Audrey Hepburn. “It’s a kind of magic, as these jewels really reflect the charisma of their owners.”

Case in point, Elizabeth Taylor’s spectacular emerald necklace, which was given to her by actor Richard Burton in 1964 at their wedding in Montreal. The exceptional piece is mounted with 16 step-cut octagonal Colombian emeralds totalling 60.50 carats, each surround by brilliant-cut and pear-shaped diamonds. The pendent, meanwhile, is a jaw-dropping 23.44-carat step-cut Colombian emerald, which was incorporated by Bulgari in 1958 as a brooch that Burton gave to Taylor on their engagement in 1962. The actress would be seen in this extraordinary piece on many occasions, such as at the 1967 Academy Awards when she accepted an Oscar, and on the set of the film The VIPs in 1963.

[caption id="attachment_212220" align="aligncenter" width="909"] Exceptional necklace mounted with 16 step-cut Colombian emeralds totalling 60.50 carats and a 23.44-carat step-cut emerald pendant once owned by Elizabeth Taylor (1962). (Image: Bulgari)[/caption]

While at the very heart of Bulgari’s conscientious archive-keeping is documenting the evolution of the brand’s style throughout its 130-year history and establishing how the brand has come to a design aesthetic that’s distinctively theirs, it’s also very much about continuity. “Our style is perpetually evolving, and our designers still constantly look back to our past and are inspired by our hallmark pieces, such as the 1960s ‘bib’ design for the necklaces, or the 1970s sautoirs, but they interpret them in a contemporary way, so while they’re in a sense ‘new’ they’re still distinctly Bulgari.

The post Lucent Legacy: Examining Bulgari’s Predilection for Heritage and Flamboyant Jewels appeared first on Prestige Online - Hong Kong.

Mother Nature is a muse that never goes out of style.

Jewellers are flexing their creative muscles by immortalising nature’s fleeting moments and interpreting them into abstract or realistic creations. Here are our favourite nature-inspired jewellery designs for 2020.

Tiffany & Co

One of the 20th century’s most gifted artists, Jean Schlumberger is famous for spectacular bejewelled objects that reference flora and fauna. His genius is evidenced here in this platinum-set Baguette Fringe necklace from Tiffany’s latest high jewellery collection – Legendary Designs of Jean Schlumberger.

Inspired by the elegant fluidity of seaweed, this creation features the juxtaposition of angular lines and soft circles realised through the use of over 23 carats of baguette diamonds and round brilliant diamonds weighing more than 62 carats. This piece is crowned with an elegant blue sapphire clasp.

Van Cleef & Arpels

The Tendresse Étincelante earrings are one of three recently released high jewellery pieces paying homage to creations that belonged to some of the maison’s leading patrons. Inspired by the Van Cleef & Arpels earrings gifted by Aristotle Onassis to Jacqueline Kennedy-Onassis in 1968 as a wedding gift, this pair features, on each side, a blossoming corolla that unfurls around a precious pear-shaped diamond.

Set in white gold, they are completed by a pair of detachable pear-shaped diamond pendants. Cut from the same rough stone, both gems weigh a total of 20.21 carats.

Bulgari

Barocko, the maison’s latest high jewellery collection, captures the magnificence and beauty of Rome’s Baroque period of artistic and architectural heritage. Recurrent elements of the iconography of the time, such as plumage (a symbol of hope and faith), take centre stage in this platinum-set Precious Feathers necklace. A regal 10.27-carat pear-shaped Colombian emerald steals the spotlight, while brilliant-cut diamonds accentuate it. Additionally, the pendant can be detached to transform the piece into a discreet choker.

Chopard

Another conversation piece from Swiss jeweller Chopard’s nature-inspired Red Carpet jewellery collection for 2020 is this Swan ring, set in Fairmined- certified ethical 18k white gold. Intricately crafted in ceramic with diamond pavé wings, the lifelike birds cradle a stunning 9.1-carat white opal cabochon sourced from Mexico.

Cartier

Nature is interpreted as an abstract blend of wilderness and fantasy in the Parisian house’s latest high jewellery collection, [Sur]naturel. One of the standout pieces is the white gold-set Tillandsia Necklace – named after a perennial flowering plant with exposed roots. A highlight here is a pair of rare oval-shaped beryls – weighing 83.23 and 81.09 carats respectively – that seem to hover above a lattice of pavé diamonds. The plant’s rosettes are presented in pink rutilated quartz, and yellow and earth-toned diamonds.

Harry Winston

Harry Winston's Water Collection is an elegant take on the forms of the precious element as it interacts with the natural world. Showcasing 53.98 carats of gleaming marquise and pear-shaped diamonds, the striking platinum-set River Necklace mimics the fluidity and flow of water cascading elegantly down the wearer’s neck.

Cindy Chao

The 2020 Black Label Masterpiece VI “Reflection Bangle” has two interpretations: Jewellery artist Cindy Chao’s reflection on her family heritage and the reflection of nature’s landscape on water. The creation draws inspiration from Impressionist art, capturing the moment when light hits the water’s surface. Seven bright non-heated Ceylon sapphires with hints of purple are stunningly reminiscent of Impressionist indigos. They are juxtaposed with rose-cut sapphires to create a mirror effect, while brilliant-cut and Fancy Coloured diamonds spread across the bangle evoke the imagery of rippling water.

Representing Chao’s family legacy is the central branch-like vein that features six flexible articulations, and is set with 1,500 yellow diamonds from light yellow to deep brown. Forged in 18k white and yellow gold, the piece dazzles with the brilliance of 1,881 stones weighing 321.79 carats.

Graff

The British jeweller’s latest Pavé Butterfly Collection reimagines one of its cherished motifs in creations that capture the delicate creature’s ethereal beauty. Set with 17.98 carats of diamonds, the necklace features butterflies highlighted by dazzling marquise diamonds. Their sculpted wings are accentuated by pavé diamonds that gleam with intense luminosity.

This story first appeared on Prestige Singapore

(Art direction: Aaron Lee for Prestige Singapore)

The post The Most Beautiful Nature-Inspired Jewellery Pieces in 2020 appeared first on Prestige Online - Hong Kong.

Meet the maison’s sixth record-setting marvel.

Featuring a deft blend of chic aesthetics and exceptional technical expertise, Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo watches have set an astounding five world records in watchmaking since debuting in 2014.

In yet another groundbreaking horological feat unveiled at Geneva Watch Days 2020 in August, Bulgari clinched its sixth watch industry record for the world’s thinnest tourbillon chronograph: The Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Chronograph Skeleton Automatic Watch.

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The integrated movement features Bulgari’s record-setting thin chronograph, unveiled last year in the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic. At a remarkable width of just 7.4mm, the case houses the caliber BVL 388 – the ultra-slender 3.5mm openworked single-push chronograph tourbillon movement with a power reserve of 52 hours.

Flaunting a two-counter display in matte grey and weighing just 100 grams, the entire case and bracelet of the limited-edition 50-piece model is crafted in sandblasted Grade 5 titanium with a transparent caseback from which the movement can be admired.

This story first appeared on Prestige Singapore

(All images: Bulgari)

The post Bulgari has Created the World’s Thinnest Tourbillon Chronograph appeared first on Prestige Online - Hong Kong.

Fifty metres underground — this is the depth that local winemakers chose when they decided to store 10,000 wine bottles in the Aven d'Orgnac caves, an underground tourist attraction located at the southern end of the limestone plateau of the Gorges de l'Ardèche.

The experiment began in March 2018, when a new storage facility was specially created in a disused access tunnel to allow wine to mature in what amounts to a highly stable and peaceful environment.

A living product that ages best in undisturbed darkness, the wine will have benefited from ideal conditions: A constant temperature of around 12°C and an all-year-long rate of humidity of over 95%.

On December 12, 1,000 bottles of Côtes du Vivarais "Grand Aven 2017" from this treasure trove will be passed from hand to hand by a chain of human volunteers who will bring them back to the surface after two years underground. Thereafter, they will go under the hammer with a range of other local vintages in an auction with modest reserve prices.

Lots on offer will include 150 magnums of Terra Helvorum 2017 starting at 30 euros, 350 bottles of 2015 Terra Helvorum for as little as 15 euros and 350 bottles of Grand Aven 2016 from just 10 euros.

On land and sea

These days, experiments to store wine deep underground are very much in vogue in France. On June 3 of this year, 500 bottles were placed in racks at a depth of 103 metres in caves in Padirac under the watchful eye of Serge Dubs, the Best Sommelier of the World in 1989.

The first of these to return to the surface will be brought up for an initial tasting in the spring of 2021. And let's not forget that this experiment is focused on a very particular wine: A Clos Triguedina Cahors, christened Cuvée Probus, which has been produced to honour the 130-year anniversary of the Padirac Chasm.

Surprisingly enough, this new approach to maturing wine was initially inspired by a find at sea. In 2010, divers in the Baltic discovered a wreck containing what turned out to be a cargo of champagne, which was probably on its way to 1840s Russia.

The wave of experimentation that is now ongoing began when the bubbly, which was made by such houses as Veuve Clicquot, Heidsieck and the now defunct Juglar, was discovered to still be delicious after some 170 years under water.

In Saint-Jean-de-Luz in the French Basque country, winemaker Emmanuel Poirmeur has registered a patent for a process that involves vinifying wine in special vats at a depth of 15 metres under water. For its part, Leclerc-Briant set a record when it vinified one of its champagnes at a depth of 60 meters under the Atlantic in 2012, not surprisingly the vintage was christened "Abyss."

The post Must-see Pieces at Bulgari’s Heritage Exhibition appeared first on Prestige Online - Hong Kong.

Plus, other watch news for this month.

The post A. Lange & Sohne releases the 2020 Lange 1 Time Zone appeared first on The Peak Magazine.

Plus, other watch news for this month.

For more stories like this, visit www.thepeakmagazine.com.sg.

The Baroque-inspired pieces are a glorious showcase of exuberant colours and extravagant forms.

The post Bulgari’s Barocko high jewellery collection is a joy to behold appeared first on The Peak Magazine.