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Incredible Stories of 6 Heritage Jewels You Might Not Know About

Astounding gemstones and awe-inspiring craftsmanship notwithstanding, the story of heritage jewels is what make them the stuff of legends. Here are the tales of some of the most amazing heritage pieces and of their owners.

Jewellery pieces only truly come alive when they’re worn, and as they’re often inextricably connected to a particular owner, these precious objects are transformed and take on a persona of their own. When we admire heritage pieces from behind glass in museums or exhibitions, or perhaps placed on headless busts, their stories still resonate. One can almost hear the proclamations of a hopelessly smitten lover, or the chides of an insatiable woman, if not feel the unspeakable pain brought about by loss and tragedy. There exist many such storied relics, but here are a few that will surely compel you to explore more.

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS: UN-ZIPPED

A 1951 sketch of the Zip necklace to be set with emeralds, sapphires, rubies and diamonds (Photo courtesy of Van Cleef & Arpels)

Perhaps unknown to many, Van Cleef & Arpels’ famous Zip necklace was conceived on the suggestion of the Duchess of Windsor, formerly the American socialite Wallis Simpson, a big client of the house whose controversial love story and eventual marriage to Prince Edward of Great Britain – who in 1936 abdicated to marry “the woman I love” – were the stuff of legend. So too was her jewellery collection. The couple was known to have shared an incredible passion for jewellery; story has it that the
Duke would spend hours with Van Cleef & Arpels’ designers to develop
and customise jewels for the Duchess.

Wallis Simpson, the Duchess of Windsor (Photo courtesy of the Cecil Beaton Studio archives at Sotheby's)

In the 1930s, after the Duchess of Windsor had just purchased an Elsa Schiaparelli piece that was fastened, for the first time in haute couture, with a zipper – then relegated mainly to utilitarian wear – she encouraged, or perhaps challenged, Renée Puissant, then artistic director at Van Cleef & Arpels, to create the Zip necklace, a piece designed to be worn either open around the neck, or closed, gracing the wrist as a bracelet. Made from yellow gold and diamonds mounted in platinum, the Zip took more than a decade to make and was only completed in 1951. The Duchess is believed never actually to have owned a Zip necklace herself – pundits say the wait might have been a tad too long – but she remained a huge fan of the French house, having owned many of its pieces.

BULGARI: A LOVE SET IN STONE

The 23.44-carat step-cut Colombian emerald brooch by Bulgari (Photo courtesy of Bulgari)

It’s remiss not to include Elizabeth Taylor’s renowned emerald necklace and brooch suite by Bulgari when speaking about jewellery of incredible provenance. As the story goes, the actor Richard Burton fell in love with Taylor after filming the first scene of Cleopatra together – naturally – and the jewels just poured thereafter. Burton famously said, “the only word Elizabeth knows in Italian is Bulgari” and, unsurprisingly, Bulgari’s Via Condotti store was one of the couple’s favourite venues in Rome.

heritage jewels
Elizabeth Taylor wears the brooch on set of the movie The V.I.P.s (1963) (Photo courtesy of Bulgari)

Burton gave Taylor the spectacular Bulgari necklace mounted with 16 step-cut octagonal Colombian emeralds of 60.50 carats, each surrounded by brilliant-cut and pear-shaped diamonds, and on their engagement he presented her with this 23.44-carat step-cut Colombian emerald brooch, which she wore on their wedding day in 1964. In 2011, Christie’s held a sale of Taylor’s private collection, which set records as the most valuable jewellery in auction history. From this sale and other private transactions, the brand re-acquired nine of its pieces – one of which is this brooch.

BOUCHERON: A QUESTION OF TASTE

The Point d’Interrogation made for the Grand Duke Alexei Alexandrovich of Russia (Photo courtesy of Boucheron)

The Grand Duke Alexei Alexandrovich of Russia, a devoted client of Boucheron, is known to be the first owner of the Point d’Interrogation (or, as most of us know it, the Question Mark), an astounding emerald and diamond peacock-feather necklace. Designed by Frédéric Boucheron and the head of his workshop, Paul Legrand, the necklace was referred to, for obvious reasons, as the Question Mark: it was wrapped around the wearer’s neck without the need to be fastened.

Grand Duke Alexei Alexandrovich of Russia

Although this modern, asymmetrical piece formed part of the Boucheron collection that won the Gold Medal at the World’s Fair in 1889, the Grand Duke already had his eyes on it even before it was presented to the world, having seen it in a sketch in 1879. He bought it a few years later, in 1883.

CARTIER: EPIC PROPORTIONS

The restored ceremonial necklace made by Cartier for the Maharaja of Patiala (Photo courtesy of Cartier)

This extravagant necklace was made for Sir Bhupindra Singh, the Maharaja of Patiala, in a special order that was placed in 1925 in Paris and completed three years later. The Maharaja brought a trove of his traditional Indian jewels to Cartier, instructing the house to modernise them. The result was a magnificent ceremonial necklace with, at its centre, the 234-carat De Beers yellow diamond, believed to be the seventh-largest diamond of all time and surrounded by another 2,900 diamonds.

heritage jewels
Sir Bhupindra Singh, the Maharaja of Patiala (Photo courtesy of Cartier)

In 1947, the necklace vanished and in 1998, Éric Nussbaum, the former director of the Cartier Collection, discovered it in a poor state. Its restoration took Cartier’s artisans more than two years, with zirconia, white topazes, synthetic rubies, smoky quartz and citrines replacing the original gems. Tremendous efforts went into restoring the platinum chain necklaces, specifically that of the pendant that held the De Beers diamond. The necklace, as it now appears in the Cartier Collection, was shown in public for the first time in 2002.

CHAUMET: PERFECT PARURE

One of the three pieces in the wedding parure given to Empress Marie-Louise on her wedding to Napoleon Bonaporte (Photo courtesy of Chaumet)

In the early 1800s, Chaumet and its founder Marie-Étienne Nitot were appointed as Napoleon Bonaparte’s official jeweller. Nitot would go on to design Napoleon’s coronation crown, sword hilt and many precious gifts for his first wife, Empress Joséphine, who would be known as Chaumet’s “first great client”.

heritage jewels
Empress Marie-Louise (Photo courtesy of Chaumet)

The royal court’s ties with Nitot would continue even after Napoleon’s second marriage to Marie-Louise of Habsburg-Lorraine of Austria, the grand-niece of Marie-Antoinette. They married at the Louvre Chapel in 1810, when the Empress Marie-Louise received as gifts two elaborate sets of jewels, each comprising a tiara, a necklace, a pair of earrings and a comb. With Nitot’s desire to preserve a copy of these ceremonial parures, he made replicas – and this tiara is one of them. It’s part of the replica of the ruby and diamond parure that belonged to Empress Marie-Louise, which was made in gold, silver and set with white sapphires, zircons and garnets.

HARRY WINSTON: FATEFUL BEAUTY

heritage jewels
The famous Hope Diamond (Photo courtesy of Harry Winston)

As stunning and jaw-dropping though this 45.52-carat intense dark-blue Hope Diamond is, tragedy has befallen anyone who came to its possession. Smuggled out of India in 1642 and sold to Louis XIV 26 years later – when it was called the French Blue – it was worn once by the king, who died shortly thereafter. It then went to Louis XV, who never wore it but lent it to his mistress, Countess DuBarry, who was beheaded in the French Revolution (Marie Antoinette, who shared the same fate at the guillotine, was also believed to have worn it often).

heritage jewels
Henry Philip Hope; painting by Thomas Goff Lupton

The diamond then appeared in the collection of Henry Philip Hope, the stone’s namesake, in 1824, who had it set on a brooch and sometimes lent it to Louisa Beresford, wife of his brother Henry Thomas Hope, when she hosted society balls. Henry Philip Hope died in 1839 and his three heirs fought in court for a decade until his nephew Henry Hope acquired the gems, including the Hope Diamond. It was showcased in the Great Exhibition of London in 1851 and the Paris Exhibition of 1855, but was usually kept in a bank vault.

heritage jewels
Edward Beale and Evalyn Walsh MacLean

By the early 1900s, the Hope changed hands once more and was cut, re-cut and re-set time and again, with tragedy never far from it. It was owned by Evalyn Walsh MacLean, whose husband was implicated in the Teapot Dome government scandal and whose son was killed in a motor accident. Harry Winston acquired the Hope in 1949, and 10 years later donated the gem to the Smithsonian, where it resides to this day.

The post Incredible Stories of 6 Heritage Jewels You Might Not Know About appeared first on Prestige Online - Hong Kong.

Incredible Stories of 6 Heritage Jewels You Might Not Know About

Astounding gemstones and awe-inspiring craftsmanship notwithstanding, the story of heritage jewels is what make them the stuff of legends. Here are the tales of some of the most amazing heritage pieces and of their owners.

Jewellery pieces only truly come alive when they’re worn, and as they’re often inextricably connected to a particular owner, these precious objects are transformed and take on a persona of their own. When we admire heritage pieces from behind glass in museums or exhibitions, or perhaps placed on headless busts, their stories still resonate. One can almost hear the proclamations of a hopelessly smitten lover, or the chides of an insatiable woman, if not feel the unspeakable pain brought about by loss and tragedy. There exist many such storied relics, but here are a few that will surely compel you to explore more.

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS: UN-ZIPPED

A 1951 sketch of the Zip necklace to be set with emeralds, sapphires, rubies and diamonds (Photo courtesy of Van Cleef & Arpels)

Perhaps unknown to many, Van Cleef & Arpels’ famous Zip necklace was conceived on the suggestion of the Duchess of Windsor, formerly the American socialite Wallis Simpson, a big client of the house whose controversial love story and eventual marriage to Prince Edward of Great Britain – who in 1936 abdicated to marry “the woman I love” – were the stuff of legend. So too was her jewellery collection. The couple was known to have shared an incredible passion for jewellery; story has it that the
Duke would spend hours with Van Cleef & Arpels’ designers to develop
and customise jewels for the Duchess.

Wallis Simpson, the Duchess of Windsor (Photo courtesy of the Cecil Beaton Studio archives at Sotheby's)

In the 1930s, after the Duchess of Windsor had just purchased an Elsa Schiaparelli piece that was fastened, for the first time in haute couture, with a zipper – then relegated mainly to utilitarian wear – she encouraged, or perhaps challenged, Renée Puissant, then artistic director at Van Cleef & Arpels, to create the Zip necklace, a piece designed to be worn either open around the neck, or closed, gracing the wrist as a bracelet. Made from yellow gold and diamonds mounted in platinum, the Zip took more than a decade to make and was only completed in 1951. The Duchess is believed never actually to have owned a Zip necklace herself – pundits say the wait might have been a tad too long – but she remained a huge fan of the French house, having owned many of its pieces.

BULGARI: A LOVE SET IN STONE

The 23.44-carat step-cut Colombian emerald brooch by Bulgari (Photo courtesy of Bulgari)

It’s remiss not to include Elizabeth Taylor’s renowned emerald necklace and brooch suite by Bulgari when speaking about jewellery of incredible provenance. As the story goes, the actor Richard Burton fell in love with Taylor after filming the first scene of Cleopatra together – naturally – and the jewels just poured thereafter. Burton famously said, “the only word Elizabeth knows in Italian is Bulgari” and, unsurprisingly, Bulgari’s Via Condotti store was one of the couple’s favourite venues in Rome.

heritage jewels
Elizabeth Taylor wears the brooch on set of the movie The V.I.P.s (1963) (Photo courtesy of Bulgari)

Burton gave Taylor the spectacular Bulgari necklace mounted with 16 step-cut octagonal Colombian emeralds of 60.50 carats, each surrounded by brilliant-cut and pear-shaped diamonds, and on their engagement he presented her with this 23.44-carat step-cut Colombian emerald brooch, which she wore on their wedding day in 1964. In 2011, Christie’s held a sale of Taylor’s private collection, which set records as the most valuable jewellery in auction history. From this sale and other private transactions, the brand re-acquired nine of its pieces – one of which is this brooch.

BOUCHERON: A QUESTION OF TASTE

The Point d’Interrogation made for the Grand Duke Alexei Alexandrovich of Russia (Photo courtesy of Boucheron)

The Grand Duke Alexei Alexandrovich of Russia, a devoted client of Boucheron, is known to be the first owner of the Point d’Interrogation (or, as most of us know it, the Question Mark), an astounding emerald and diamond peacock-feather necklace. Designed by Frédéric Boucheron and the head of his workshop, Paul Legrand, the necklace was referred to, for obvious reasons, as the Question Mark: it was wrapped around the wearer’s neck without the need to be fastened.

Grand Duke Alexei Alexandrovich of Russia

Although this modern, asymmetrical piece formed part of the Boucheron collection that won the Gold Medal at the World’s Fair in 1889, the Grand Duke already had his eyes on it even before it was presented to the world, having seen it in a sketch in 1879. He bought it a few years later, in 1883.

CARTIER: EPIC PROPORTIONS

The restored ceremonial necklace made by Cartier for the Maharaja of Patiala (Photo courtesy of Cartier)

This extravagant necklace was made for Sir Bhupindra Singh, the Maharaja of Patiala, in a special order that was placed in 1925 in Paris and completed three years later. The Maharaja brought a trove of his traditional Indian jewels to Cartier, instructing the house to modernise them. The result was a magnificent ceremonial necklace with, at its centre, the 234-carat De Beers yellow diamond, believed to be the seventh-largest diamond of all time and surrounded by another 2,900 diamonds.

heritage jewels
Sir Bhupindra Singh, the Maharaja of Patiala (Photo courtesy of Cartier)

In 1947, the necklace vanished and in 1998, Éric Nussbaum, the former director of the Cartier Collection, discovered it in a poor state. Its restoration took Cartier’s artisans more than two years, with zirconia, white topazes, synthetic rubies, smoky quartz and citrines replacing the original gems. Tremendous efforts went into restoring the platinum chain necklaces, specifically that of the pendant that held the De Beers diamond. The necklace, as it now appears in the Cartier Collection, was shown in public for the first time in 2002.

CHAUMET: PERFECT PARURE

One of the three pieces in the wedding parure given to Empress Marie-Louise on her wedding to Napoleon Bonaporte (Photo courtesy of Chaumet)

In the early 1800s, Chaumet and its founder Marie-Étienne Nitot were appointed as Napoleon Bonaparte’s official jeweller. Nitot would go on to design Napoleon’s coronation crown, sword hilt and many precious gifts for his first wife, Empress Joséphine, who would be known as Chaumet’s “first great client”.

heritage jewels
Empress Marie-Louise (Photo courtesy of Chaumet)

The royal court’s ties with Nitot would continue even after Napoleon’s second marriage to Marie-Louise of Habsburg-Lorraine of Austria, the grand-niece of Marie-Antoinette. They married at the Louvre Chapel in 1810, when the Empress Marie-Louise received as gifts two elaborate sets of jewels, each comprising a tiara, a necklace, a pair of earrings and a comb. With Nitot’s desire to preserve a copy of these ceremonial parures, he made replicas – and this tiara is one of them. It’s part of the replica of the ruby and diamond parure that belonged to Empress Marie-Louise, which was made in gold, silver and set with white sapphires, zircons and garnets.

HARRY WINSTON: FATEFUL BEAUTY

heritage jewels
The famous Hope Diamond (Photo courtesy of Harry Winston)

As stunning and jaw-dropping though this 45.52-carat intense dark-blue Hope Diamond is, tragedy has befallen anyone who came to its possession. Smuggled out of India in 1642 and sold to Louis XIV 26 years later – when it was called the French Blue – it was worn once by the king, who died shortly thereafter. It then went to Louis XV, who never wore it but lent it to his mistress, Countess DuBarry, who was beheaded in the French Revolution (Marie Antoinette, who shared the same fate at the guillotine, was also believed to have worn it often).

heritage jewels
Henry Philip Hope; painting by Thomas Goff Lupton

The diamond then appeared in the collection of Henry Philip Hope, the stone’s namesake, in 1824, who had it set on a brooch and sometimes lent it to Louisa Beresford, wife of his brother Henry Thomas Hope, when she hosted society balls. Henry Philip Hope died in 1839 and his three heirs fought in court for a decade until his nephew Henry Hope acquired the gems, including the Hope Diamond. It was showcased in the Great Exhibition of London in 1851 and the Paris Exhibition of 1855, but was usually kept in a bank vault.

heritage jewels
Edward Beale and Evalyn Walsh MacLean

By the early 1900s, the Hope changed hands once more and was cut, re-cut and re-set time and again, with tragedy never far from it. It was owned by Evalyn Walsh MacLean, whose husband was implicated in the Teapot Dome government scandal and whose son was killed in a motor accident. Harry Winston acquired the Hope in 1949, and 10 years later donated the gem to the Smithsonian, where it resides to this day.

The post Incredible Stories of 6 Heritage Jewels You Might Not Know About appeared first on Prestige Online - Hong Kong.

Incredible Stories of 6 Heritage Jewels You Might Not Know About

Astounding gemstones and awe-inspiring craftsmanship notwithstanding, the story of heritage jewels is what make them the stuff of legends. Here are the tales of some of the most amazing heritage pieces and of their owners.

Jewellery pieces only truly come alive when they’re worn, and as they’re often inextricably connected to a particular owner, these precious objects are transformed and take on a persona of their own. When we admire heritage pieces from behind glass in museums or exhibitions, or perhaps placed on headless busts, their stories still resonate. One can almost hear the proclamations of a hopelessly smitten lover, or the chides of an insatiable woman, if not feel the unspeakable pain brought about by loss and tragedy. There exist many such storied relics, but here are a few that will surely compel you to explore more.

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS: UN-ZIPPED

A 1951 sketch of the Zip necklace to be set with emeralds, sapphires, rubies and diamonds (Photo courtesy of Van Cleef & Arpels)

Perhaps unknown to many, Van Cleef & Arpels’ famous Zip necklace was conceived on the suggestion of the Duchess of Windsor, formerly the American socialite Wallis Simpson, a big client of the house whose controversial love story and eventual marriage to Prince Edward of Great Britain – who in 1936 abdicated to marry “the woman I love” – were the stuff of legend. So too was her jewellery collection. The couple was known to have shared an incredible passion for jewellery; story has it that the
Duke would spend hours with Van Cleef & Arpels’ designers to develop
and customise jewels for the Duchess.

Wallis Simpson, the Duchess of Windsor (Photo courtesy of the Cecil Beaton Studio archives at Sotheby's)

In the 1930s, after the Duchess of Windsor had just purchased an Elsa Schiaparelli piece that was fastened, for the first time in haute couture, with a zipper – then relegated mainly to utilitarian wear – she encouraged, or perhaps challenged, Renée Puissant, then artistic director at Van Cleef & Arpels, to create the Zip necklace, a piece designed to be worn either open around the neck, or closed, gracing the wrist as a bracelet. Made from yellow gold and diamonds mounted in platinum, the Zip took more than a decade to make and was only completed in 1951. The Duchess is believed never actually to have owned a Zip necklace herself – pundits say the wait might have been a tad too long – but she remained a huge fan of the French house, having owned many of its pieces.

BULGARI: A LOVE SET IN STONE

The 23.44-carat step-cut Colombian emerald brooch by Bulgari (Photo courtesy of Bulgari)

It’s remiss not to include Elizabeth Taylor’s renowned emerald necklace and brooch suite by Bulgari when speaking about jewellery of incredible provenance. As the story goes, the actor Richard Burton fell in love with Taylor after filming the first scene of Cleopatra together – naturally – and the jewels just poured thereafter. Burton famously said, “the only word Elizabeth knows in Italian is Bulgari” and, unsurprisingly, Bulgari’s Via Condotti store was one of the couple’s favourite venues in Rome.

heritage jewels
Elizabeth Taylor wears the brooch on set of the movie The V.I.P.s (1963) (Photo courtesy of Bulgari)

Burton gave Taylor the spectacular Bulgari necklace mounted with 16 step-cut octagonal Colombian emeralds of 60.50 carats, each surrounded by brilliant-cut and pear-shaped diamonds, and on their engagement he presented her with this 23.44-carat step-cut Colombian emerald brooch, which she wore on their wedding day in 1964. In 2011, Christie’s held a sale of Taylor’s private collection, which set records as the most valuable jewellery in auction history. From this sale and other private transactions, the brand re-acquired nine of its pieces – one of which is this brooch.

BOUCHERON: A QUESTION OF TASTE

The Point d’Interrogation made for the Grand Duke Alexei Alexandrovich of Russia (Photo courtesy of Boucheron)

The Grand Duke Alexei Alexandrovich of Russia, a devoted client of Boucheron, is known to be the first owner of the Point d’Interrogation (or, as most of us know it, the Question Mark), an astounding emerald and diamond peacock-feather necklace. Designed by Frédéric Boucheron and the head of his workshop, Paul Legrand, the necklace was referred to, for obvious reasons, as the Question Mark: it was wrapped around the wearer’s neck without the need to be fastened.

Grand Duke Alexei Alexandrovich of Russia

Although this modern, asymmetrical piece formed part of the Boucheron collection that won the Gold Medal at the World’s Fair in 1889, the Grand Duke already had his eyes on it even before it was presented to the world, having seen it in a sketch in 1879. He bought it a few years later, in 1883.

CARTIER: EPIC PROPORTIONS

The restored ceremonial necklace made by Cartier for the Maharaja of Patiala (Photo courtesy of Cartier)

This extravagant necklace was made for Sir Bhupindra Singh, the Maharaja of Patiala, in a special order that was placed in 1925 in Paris and completed three years later. The Maharaja brought a trove of his traditional Indian jewels to Cartier, instructing the house to modernise them. The result was a magnificent ceremonial necklace with, at its centre, the 234-carat De Beers yellow diamond, believed to be the seventh-largest diamond of all time and surrounded by another 2,900 diamonds.

heritage jewels
Sir Bhupindra Singh, the Maharaja of Patiala (Photo courtesy of Cartier)

In 1947, the necklace vanished and in 1998, Éric Nussbaum, the former director of the Cartier Collection, discovered it in a poor state. Its restoration took Cartier’s artisans more than two years, with zirconia, white topazes, synthetic rubies, smoky quartz and citrines replacing the original gems. Tremendous efforts went into restoring the platinum chain necklaces, specifically that of the pendant that held the De Beers diamond. The necklace, as it now appears in the Cartier Collection, was shown in public for the first time in 2002.

CHAUMET: PERFECT PARURE

One of the three pieces in the wedding parure given to Empress Marie-Louise on her wedding to Napoleon Bonaporte (Photo courtesy of Chaumet)

In the early 1800s, Chaumet and its founder Marie-Étienne Nitot were appointed as Napoleon Bonaparte’s official jeweller. Nitot would go on to design Napoleon’s coronation crown, sword hilt and many precious gifts for his first wife, Empress Joséphine, who would be known as Chaumet’s “first great client”.

heritage jewels
Empress Marie-Louise (Photo courtesy of Chaumet)

The royal court’s ties with Nitot would continue even after Napoleon’s second marriage to Marie-Louise of Habsburg-Lorraine of Austria, the grand-niece of Marie-Antoinette. They married at the Louvre Chapel in 1810, when the Empress Marie-Louise received as gifts two elaborate sets of jewels, each comprising a tiara, a necklace, a pair of earrings and a comb. With Nitot’s desire to preserve a copy of these ceremonial parures, he made replicas – and this tiara is one of them. It’s part of the replica of the ruby and diamond parure that belonged to Empress Marie-Louise, which was made in gold, silver and set with white sapphires, zircons and garnets.

HARRY WINSTON: FATEFUL BEAUTY

heritage jewels
The famous Hope Diamond (Photo courtesy of Harry Winston)

As stunning and jaw-dropping though this 45.52-carat intense dark-blue Hope Diamond is, tragedy has befallen anyone who came to its possession. Smuggled out of India in 1642 and sold to Louis XIV 26 years later – when it was called the French Blue – it was worn once by the king, who died shortly thereafter. It then went to Louis XV, who never wore it but lent it to his mistress, Countess DuBarry, who was beheaded in the French Revolution (Marie Antoinette, who shared the same fate at the guillotine, was also believed to have worn it often).

heritage jewels
Henry Philip Hope; painting by Thomas Goff Lupton

The diamond then appeared in the collection of Henry Philip Hope, the stone’s namesake, in 1824, who had it set on a brooch and sometimes lent it to Louisa Beresford, wife of his brother Henry Thomas Hope, when she hosted society balls. Henry Philip Hope died in 1839 and his three heirs fought in court for a decade until his nephew Henry Hope acquired the gems, including the Hope Diamond. It was showcased in the Great Exhibition of London in 1851 and the Paris Exhibition of 1855, but was usually kept in a bank vault.

heritage jewels
Edward Beale and Evalyn Walsh MacLean

By the early 1900s, the Hope changed hands once more and was cut, re-cut and re-set time and again, with tragedy never far from it. It was owned by Evalyn Walsh MacLean, whose husband was implicated in the Teapot Dome government scandal and whose son was killed in a motor accident. Harry Winston acquired the Hope in 1949, and 10 years later donated the gem to the Smithsonian, where it resides to this day.

The post Incredible Stories of 6 Heritage Jewels You Might Not Know About appeared first on Prestige Online - Hong Kong.

Incredible Stories of 6 Heritage Jewels You Might Not Know About

Astounding gemstones and awe-inspiring craftsmanship notwithstanding, the story of heritage jewels is what make them the stuff of legends. Here are the tales of some of the most amazing heritage pieces and of their owners.

Jewellery pieces only truly come alive when they’re worn, and as they’re often inextricably connected to a particular owner, these precious objects are transformed and take on a persona of their own. When we admire heritage pieces from behind glass in museums or exhibitions, or perhaps placed on headless busts, their stories still resonate. One can almost hear the proclamations of a hopelessly smitten lover, or the chides of an insatiable woman, if not feel the unspeakable pain brought about by loss and tragedy. There exist many such storied relics, but here are a few that will surely compel you to explore more.

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS: UN-ZIPPED

A 1951 sketch of the Zip necklace to be set with emeralds, sapphires, rubies and diamonds (Photo courtesy of Van Cleef & Arpels)

Perhaps unknown to many, Van Cleef & Arpels’ famous Zip necklace was conceived on the suggestion of the Duchess of Windsor, formerly the American socialite Wallis Simpson, a big client of the house whose controversial love story and eventual marriage to Prince Edward of Great Britain – who in 1936 abdicated to marry “the woman I love” – were the stuff of legend. So too was her jewellery collection. The couple was known to have shared an incredible passion for jewellery; story has it that the
Duke would spend hours with Van Cleef & Arpels’ designers to develop
and customise jewels for the Duchess.

Wallis Simpson, the Duchess of Windsor (Photo courtesy of the Cecil Beaton Studio archives at Sotheby's)

In the 1930s, after the Duchess of Windsor had just purchased an Elsa Schiaparelli piece that was fastened, for the first time in haute couture, with a zipper – then relegated mainly to utilitarian wear – she encouraged, or perhaps challenged, Renée Puissant, then artistic director at Van Cleef & Arpels, to create the Zip necklace, a piece designed to be worn either open around the neck, or closed, gracing the wrist as a bracelet. Made from yellow gold and diamonds mounted in platinum, the Zip took more than a decade to make and was only completed in 1951. The Duchess is believed never actually to have owned a Zip necklace herself – pundits say the wait might have been a tad too long – but she remained a huge fan of the French house, having owned many of its pieces.

BULGARI: A LOVE SET IN STONE

The 23.44-carat step-cut Colombian emerald brooch by Bulgari (Photo courtesy of Bulgari)

It’s remiss not to include Elizabeth Taylor’s renowned emerald necklace and brooch suite by Bulgari when speaking about jewellery of incredible provenance. As the story goes, the actor Richard Burton fell in love with Taylor after filming the first scene of Cleopatra together – naturally – and the jewels just poured thereafter. Burton famously said, “the only word Elizabeth knows in Italian is Bulgari” and, unsurprisingly, Bulgari’s Via Condotti store was one of the couple’s favourite venues in Rome.

heritage jewels
Elizabeth Taylor wears the brooch on set of the movie The V.I.P.s (1963) (Photo courtesy of Bulgari)

Burton gave Taylor the spectacular Bulgari necklace mounted with 16 step-cut octagonal Colombian emeralds of 60.50 carats, each surrounded by brilliant-cut and pear-shaped diamonds, and on their engagement he presented her with this 23.44-carat step-cut Colombian emerald brooch, which she wore on their wedding day in 1964. In 2011, Christie’s held a sale of Taylor’s private collection, which set records as the most valuable jewellery in auction history. From this sale and other private transactions, the brand re-acquired nine of its pieces – one of which is this brooch.

BOUCHERON: A QUESTION OF TASTE

The Point d’Interrogation made for the Grand Duke Alexei Alexandrovich of Russia (Photo courtesy of Boucheron)

The Grand Duke Alexei Alexandrovich of Russia, a devoted client of Boucheron, is known to be the first owner of the Point d’Interrogation (or, as most of us know it, the Question Mark), an astounding emerald and diamond peacock-feather necklace. Designed by Frédéric Boucheron and the head of his workshop, Paul Legrand, the necklace was referred to, for obvious reasons, as the Question Mark: it was wrapped around the wearer’s neck without the need to be fastened.

Grand Duke Alexei Alexandrovich of Russia

Although this modern, asymmetrical piece formed part of the Boucheron collection that won the Gold Medal at the World’s Fair in 1889, the Grand Duke already had his eyes on it even before it was presented to the world, having seen it in a sketch in 1879. He bought it a few years later, in 1883.

CARTIER: EPIC PROPORTIONS

The restored ceremonial necklace made by Cartier for the Maharaja of Patiala (Photo courtesy of Cartier)

This extravagant necklace was made for Sir Bhupindra Singh, the Maharaja of Patiala, in a special order that was placed in 1925 in Paris and completed three years later. The Maharaja brought a trove of his traditional Indian jewels to Cartier, instructing the house to modernise them. The result was a magnificent ceremonial necklace with, at its centre, the 234-carat De Beers yellow diamond, believed to be the seventh-largest diamond of all time and surrounded by another 2,900 diamonds.

heritage jewels
Sir Bhupindra Singh, the Maharaja of Patiala (Photo courtesy of Cartier)

In 1947, the necklace vanished and in 1998, Éric Nussbaum, the former director of the Cartier Collection, discovered it in a poor state. Its restoration took Cartier’s artisans more than two years, with zirconia, white topazes, synthetic rubies, smoky quartz and citrines replacing the original gems. Tremendous efforts went into restoring the platinum chain necklaces, specifically that of the pendant that held the De Beers diamond. The necklace, as it now appears in the Cartier Collection, was shown in public for the first time in 2002.

CHAUMET: PERFECT PARURE

One of the three pieces in the wedding parure given to Empress Marie-Louise on her wedding to Napoleon Bonaporte (Photo courtesy of Chaumet)

In the early 1800s, Chaumet and its founder Marie-Étienne Nitot were appointed as Napoleon Bonaparte’s official jeweller. Nitot would go on to design Napoleon’s coronation crown, sword hilt and many precious gifts for his first wife, Empress Joséphine, who would be known as Chaumet’s “first great client”.

heritage jewels
Empress Marie-Louise (Photo courtesy of Chaumet)

The royal court’s ties with Nitot would continue even after Napoleon’s second marriage to Marie-Louise of Habsburg-Lorraine of Austria, the grand-niece of Marie-Antoinette. They married at the Louvre Chapel in 1810, when the Empress Marie-Louise received as gifts two elaborate sets of jewels, each comprising a tiara, a necklace, a pair of earrings and a comb. With Nitot’s desire to preserve a copy of these ceremonial parures, he made replicas – and this tiara is one of them. It’s part of the replica of the ruby and diamond parure that belonged to Empress Marie-Louise, which was made in gold, silver and set with white sapphires, zircons and garnets.

HARRY WINSTON: FATEFUL BEAUTY

heritage jewels
The famous Hope Diamond (Photo courtesy of Harry Winston)

As stunning and jaw-dropping though this 45.52-carat intense dark-blue Hope Diamond is, tragedy has befallen anyone who came to its possession. Smuggled out of India in 1642 and sold to Louis XIV 26 years later – when it was called the French Blue – it was worn once by the king, who died shortly thereafter. It then went to Louis XV, who never wore it but lent it to his mistress, Countess DuBarry, who was beheaded in the French Revolution (Marie Antoinette, who shared the same fate at the guillotine, was also believed to have worn it often).

heritage jewels
Henry Philip Hope; painting by Thomas Goff Lupton

The diamond then appeared in the collection of Henry Philip Hope, the stone’s namesake, in 1824, who had it set on a brooch and sometimes lent it to Louisa Beresford, wife of his brother Henry Thomas Hope, when she hosted society balls. Henry Philip Hope died in 1839 and his three heirs fought in court for a decade until his nephew Henry Hope acquired the gems, including the Hope Diamond. It was showcased in the Great Exhibition of London in 1851 and the Paris Exhibition of 1855, but was usually kept in a bank vault.

heritage jewels
Edward Beale and Evalyn Walsh MacLean

By the early 1900s, the Hope changed hands once more and was cut, re-cut and re-set time and again, with tragedy never far from it. It was owned by Evalyn Walsh MacLean, whose husband was implicated in the Teapot Dome government scandal and whose son was killed in a motor accident. Harry Winston acquired the Hope in 1949, and 10 years later donated the gem to the Smithsonian, where it resides to this day.

The post Incredible Stories of 6 Heritage Jewels You Might Not Know About appeared first on Prestige Online - Hong Kong.

The Most Beautiful Nature-Inspired Jewellery Pieces in 2020

Mother Nature is a muse that never goes out of style.

Jewellers are flexing their creative muscles by immortalising nature’s fleeting moments and interpreting them into abstract or realistic creations. Here are our favourite nature-inspired jewellery designs for 2020.

Tiffany & Co

nature-inspired jewellery

One of the 20th century’s most gifted artists, Jean Schlumberger is famous for spectacular bejewelled objects that reference flora and fauna. His genius is evidenced here in this platinum-set Baguette Fringe necklace from Tiffany’s latest high jewellery collection – Legendary Designs of Jean Schlumberger.

Inspired by the elegant fluidity of seaweed, this creation features the juxtaposition of angular lines and soft circles realised through the use of over 23 carats of baguette diamonds and round brilliant diamonds weighing more than 62 carats. This piece is crowned with an elegant blue sapphire clasp.

Van Cleef & Arpels

nature-inspired jewellery

The Tendresse Étincelante earrings are one of three recently released high jewellery pieces paying homage to creations that belonged to some of the maison’s leading patrons. Inspired by the Van Cleef & Arpels earrings gifted by Aristotle Onassis to Jacqueline Kennedy-Onassis in 1968 as a wedding gift, this pair features, on each side, a blossoming corolla that unfurls around a precious pear-shaped diamond.

Set in white gold, they are completed by a pair of detachable pear-shaped diamond pendants. Cut from the same rough stone, both gems weigh a total of 20.21 carats.

Bulgari

nature-inspired jewellery

Barocko, the maison’s latest high jewellery collection, captures the magnificence and beauty of Rome’s Baroque period of artistic and architectural heritage. Recurrent elements of the iconography of the time, such as plumage (a symbol of hope and faith), take centre stage in this platinum-set Precious Feathers necklace. A regal 10.27-carat pear-shaped Colombian emerald steals the spotlight, while brilliant-cut diamonds accentuate it. Additionally, the pendant can be detached to transform the piece into a discreet choker.

Chopard

nature-inspired jewellery

Another conversation piece from Swiss jeweller Chopard’s nature-inspired Red Carpet jewellery collection for 2020 is this Swan ring, set in Fairmined- certified ethical 18k white gold. Intricately crafted in ceramic with diamond pavé wings, the lifelike birds cradle a stunning 9.1-carat white opal cabochon sourced from Mexico.

Cartier

nature-inspired jewellery

Nature is interpreted as an abstract blend of wilderness and fantasy in the Parisian house’s latest high jewellery collection, [Sur]naturel. One of the standout pieces is the white gold-set Tillandsia Necklace – named after a perennial flowering plant with exposed roots. A highlight here is a pair of rare oval-shaped beryls – weighing 83.23 and 81.09 carats respectively – that seem to hover above a lattice of pavé diamonds. The plant’s rosettes are presented in pink rutilated quartz, and yellow and earth-toned diamonds.

Harry Winston

Harry Winston's Water Collection is an elegant take on the forms of the precious element as it interacts with the natural world. Showcasing 53.98 carats of gleaming marquise and pear-shaped diamonds, the striking platinum-set River Necklace mimics the fluidity and flow of water cascading elegantly down the wearer’s neck.

Cindy Chao

The 2020 Black Label Masterpiece VI “Reflection Bangle” has two interpretations: Jewellery artist Cindy Chao’s reflection on her family heritage and the reflection of nature’s landscape on water. The creation draws inspiration from Impressionist art, capturing the moment when light hits the water’s surface. Seven bright non-heated Ceylon sapphires with hints of purple are stunningly reminiscent of Impressionist indigos. They are juxtaposed with rose-cut sapphires to create a mirror effect, while brilliant-cut and Fancy Coloured diamonds spread across the bangle evoke the imagery of rippling water.

Representing Chao’s family legacy is the central branch-like vein that features six flexible articulations, and is set with 1,500 yellow diamonds from light yellow to deep brown. Forged in 18k white and yellow gold, the piece dazzles with the brilliance of 1,881 stones weighing 321.79 carats.

Graff

The British jeweller’s latest Pavé Butterfly Collection reimagines one of its cherished motifs in creations that capture the delicate creature’s ethereal beauty. Set with 17.98 carats of diamonds, the necklace features butterflies highlighted by dazzling marquise diamonds. Their sculpted wings are accentuated by pavé diamonds that gleam with intense luminosity.

This story first appeared on Prestige Singapore

(Art direction: Aaron Lee for Prestige Singapore)

The post The Most Beautiful Nature-Inspired Jewellery Pieces in 2020 appeared first on Prestige Online - Hong Kong.

How Harry Winston Created Colorful, Kaleidoscopic Pendants and Watches for Its New High Jewelry Collection

The pieces take inspiration from an extraordinary one-of-a-kind creation conceived 30 years ago.

Celebrating the Birthstone for August: Peridot

In celebration of August's gorgeous green birthstone, the gem of the sun, Peridot.

If there ever was an underdog of gemstones, peridot -- pronounced pear-a-dot (or doe if you want to sound French) -- would be it. Overshadowed by more famous gemstones in recent years, the August birthstone has a remarkable history and formation process. Typically coloured lemony-green, its value depends on its intensity and size. The peridot boasts a rich history that harks back to ancient Egypt, and was once highly celebrated for its many mystical virtues.

Peridot Background

As Egypt's national gem, the peridot is steeped in the country's legends. It's said that Pharaoh Tutankhamen wore a pendant of the gemstone while many historians believe that Cleopatra's emeralds were actually peridots. The peridot is also prominent in Christianity and is repeatedly mentioned as "chrysolite" in the Bible; scholars theorise that Aaron, brother of Moses, wore a peridot on his breastplate. Also, it's been confirmed that it's actually 200-ct peridots, and not emeralds, which decorate the shrine of the Three Holy Kings in Germany’s Cologne Cathedral.

The peridot is also well-known for its healing properties. People consumed medicine from peridot goblets, believing that doing so would boost its potency. It's also seen as the feel-good crystal with extraordinary powers. Many see it as an antidepressant that shields its wearers from negative energy and acts as a tonic for heartaches; others see it as a "study stone" that blesses its wearers with mental focus. Popularly, it's believed to give its wearers the strength and vision to achieve one's deepest desires.

Precious Peridots

The peridot is one of only two gems — the other being the diamond — that's not created in the earth crust. Most are formed deep in the earth's mantle and brought to its surface through earthquakes and tectonic activity. Dubbed the "gem of the sun", peridots have an extraterrestrial edge: Some of the oldest of its kind have been found in palasite meteorites, derived billions of years ago during the formation of the solar system.

The August birthstone is also one of the few gemstones that only exists in a single colour. What gives it its rich green colour is fine traces of iron. The more iron exists in the stone, the deeper the shade and the higher the value of a peridot. Peridot is typically sold in three to 5ct while those between 10 to 15ct are rare. The largest peridot in the world currently weighs at 310ct and sits at the Smithsonian museum.

Check the gallery below for our favourite four pieces of jewellery featuring the August birthstone, which don't just make big and bold accents for your jewellery collection, but act as fantastic conversation starters.

[gallery ids="209278,209276,209277,209279"]

This story first appeared on Prestige Online Singapore

The post Celebrating the Birthstone for August: Peridot appeared first on Prestige Online - Hong Kong.

The Statement High Jewellery to Obsess Over This Season

The latest gemstone jewellery designs scream loud colours and big statements. Think opals, pink diamonds, spinels, and conch pearls from jewellers such as Graff, Harry Winston, and Bvlgari.

Pink Diamond
The strongest naturally occurring substance on earth, diamonds were first referenced in Sanskrit texts as early as 400BC. Coloured diamonds, however, are extremely rare with only one natural coloured stone found for every 10,000 colourless diamonds. Factors that determine a coloured diamond’s value include hue, tone and saturation. Microscopic amounts of trace elements and distortions, pressure or carbon atoms interacting with an element can effect a colour change in diamonds. For instance, the presence of hydrogen creates pink, purple and red diamonds, while boron absorption results in blue diamonds. The mines where these rarities are discovered are quickly becoming depleted, making them even more heart-stoppingly expensive.
This Graff white and rose gold set ring flaunts a 5.63-carat pear-shaped fancy vivid purplish pink diamond, which is flanked by two fancy intense pink pear-shaped diamonds. Cut and polished from an extremely rare 13.33-carat pink rough diamond discovered at the renowned Letseng mine in Lesotho, it was purchased by Laurence Graff for over US$8.7 million (S$12.1 million), breaking the record dollar per carat price of any Letseng diamond.

Black Opal
This glittering “black” gem with a holographic effect sets itself apart from the other types of opals, thanks to carbon and iron oxide traces. Its unusually dark body tone also allows the rainbow-like hues to radiate more vividly than in lighter opals. Australia produces over 90 per cent of the world’s opals, with Lightning Ridge being the most prestigious and frequently featured in high jewellery for its rare black opals. They are so much harder to find now that an exceptional gem-quality specimen can fetch up to A$15,000 (S$14,550) per carat. The scarcity of this delicate mineral (its hardness is 5.5 to 6.5 on the Mohs scale) is further compounded by high fuel prices and lease fees that make mining very costly.
A ribbon motif highlights Tiffany & Co.’s unparalleled level of craftsmanship in this remarkable platinum-set brooch. Showcasing an oval cabochon black opal of over 37 carats with baguette sapphires and diamonds totalling more than 23 carats, this piece’s clean and organic aesthetics belie its complexity of craftsmanship.

Spessartite Garnet
Although most spessartites originate from Africa today, the vivid orange or reddish orange mineral got its name from Spessart, Bavaria, in Germany where it was first discovered. One of the rarer garnets, it is an idiochromatic gem, which means it is coloured by a fundamental element – manganese in this instance – in its composition rather than impurities. Combining a hardness of 6.5 to 7.5 on the Mohs scale with excellent brilliance and sparkle, the gem is attractive to collectors as it is almost always completely natural and untreated. Since large, top-grade garnets are no longer found in mines today, one with a saturated pure mandarin orange hue is the rarest and most valuable.
This spectacular Harry Winston ring from the Winston Candy collection features a 16.69-carat oval spessartite garnet in a vivid mandarin, which is set on platinum in bold contrast with pear-shaped turquoise cabochons and scintillating round diamonds.

Imperial topaz
The most sought after and valuable natural topaz, this gem’s name originated in 19th-century Russia to honour the czar, as the Ural Mountain mines were a leading source of the stone. Like the colours of the setting sun, imperial topaz is defined to include yellow, red, pink, lavender-pink or pink- orange, with the natural pink variety being very rare. While orange, pink and red topaz now come mainly from Ouro Prêto in Brazil, fine pink topaz also hails from Pakistan’s Katlang area. It has a hardness of 8 on the Mohs scale, and is also highly prized for its brilliance and glassy lustre with few inclusions.
From Cartier’s High Jewellery collection Magnitude, the enthralling Mauna necklace showcases three bicoloured Brazilian imperial topazes –two octagonal and one pear-shaped with an ombré effect – weighing a total of 21.91 carats. Accompanied by diamonds, sapphires and rutilated quartz, the striking colours and design cascade like lava flowing from volcano.

Conch pearl
Beloved for their pretty hues, which range from white to pink to golden, conch pearls are among the rarest and priciest pearl types in the world. A calcareous concretion produced by the queen conch mollusc, the pearls most often used in high jewellery are pink and oval-shaped. The finest specimens also bear a flame-like motif and a smooth porcelain surface. About 10,000 conches must be harvested before a single pearl can be found, with less than 10 per cent considered gem quality.
The 2020 Black Label Masterpiece V Cameron Falls Earrings from Cindy Chao’s Aquatic Collection are inspired by Canada’s Cameron Falls, which is renowned for its pink hue in the rainy spring/summer season due to the region’s similarly coloured sedimentary rocks. The main highlights of this sculptural creation – a pair of natural conch pearls totalling 10.24 carats – are accentuated by lavish streams of pink sapphires and purple garnets set on anodised titanium. The movement of water is depicted by white diamonds and fancy-coloured rose-cut diamonds.

Spinel
This gemstone comes in a rainbow spectrum of colours that range from intense red and hot pink, to shades of blue and purple, and even grey and black. The most precious hues are ruby red from the famed Mogok Valley in Myanmar and cobalt blue from Vietnam’s Luc Yen mine. Spinel has a hardness of 8 on the Mohs scale, and a signature property of the gem is that it is singly refractive. Light enters the crystal and only bends in one beam, resulting in it being more brilliant than rubies or sapphires.
Gracing this ring set in ethical 18k white gold from Chopard’s Red Carpet Collection 2020 is a 4.7-carat pear-shaped spinel, two half-moon diamonds and brilliants. Its crimson hue is so vivid that it is little wonder that red spinels have been long mistaken for rubies until modern-day technological advancements in gemology could differentiate the two.

Rubellite
Highly prized and priced because of its rarity and vibrant beauty, the rubellite hails from the colourful tourmaline family. With its name derived from the Latin word rubellus, which means reddish, it features trace amounts of manganese that gives it its colour, which varies from luscious red to violet to dramatic pink. This is one of the few gemstones where the presence of inclusions is a benefit. Mainly found in Brazil, Madagascar, Mozambique, Nigeria and Pakistan, a genuine rubellite must hold its colour regardless of the light source.
A drop-cut 66.41-carat rubellite with outstanding transparency and intense colour steals the limelight on the Meraviglia collar from Bvlgari’s Cinemagia high jewellery collection. Set in 18k white gold, it also features 10 pear-shaped pink tourmalines and amethysts totalling 9.88 carats, five pear-shaped rose-cut diamonds of 5.12 carats, and 116.93 carats of dazzling diamonds knitted into a sensual, flexible and precious piece of lace.

Hawk's eye
Famed for its chatoyancy (the optical effect of a reflective band of light), this gemstone is a pseudomorph of quartz – a mineral that is replaced by another over time while retaining its external shape. Hawk’s eye is essentially an unoxidised form of tiger’s eye. Its formation begins when blue crocidolite is dissolved by quartz and traces of iron oxide remain. Less iron results in the blue hue of hawk’s eye, while more iron gives it the brownish gold colour of tiger’s eye. With a hardness of 7 on the Mohs scale, the colour of the opaque gemstone with a silky lustre ranges from blue-grey to blue-green.
From Chaumet’s collection of Trésors d’Ailleurs High Jewellery rings, a deep blue sugarloaf hawk’s eye takes centre stage on the Artemisia ring. Set in 18k yellow gold with rock crystal and brilliant-cut diamonds, the regal piece combines a sense of monumental splendour with intricate details.


Art Direction: Aaron Lee

The post The Statement High Jewellery to Obsess Over This Season appeared first on Prestige Online - Hong Kong.

Mesmerising High Jewellery Catwalk Creations

Hong Kong's ever-changing dining scene is constantly evolving.

So much so, that it can get a little difficult to keep track of it all, let alone remember to book and try the new restaurants that have caught your eye. From brand new concepts to fresh venues and additional locations, here is our guide to seven of Hong Kong's most promising new restaurants to try right now.

Well, what are you waiting for...

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The Harry Winston Broadway glasses – elevating the lorgnette

The word Lorgnette is derived from the French word lorgner – meaning “to ogle” or “to eye furtively,” and that’s the precise function of the glasses. American luxury brand Harry Winston exceeds the expectation by reimaging the Lorgnette, this time with diamonds and emeralds. The 1953 musical film Gentlemen Prefer Blondes had the song “Diamonds Are a […]

The post The Harry Winston Broadway glasses – elevating the lorgnette appeared first on Upscale Living Magazine.

From Rolex to Patek Philippe: These Are the Luxury Watchmakers Closing Due to the Coronavirus

More and more luxury watchmakers are temporarily closing shop as the COVID-19 pandemic worsens.

These Luxury Timepieces are Celebrating The Year of The Rat

The 12 signs of the Chinese zodiac calendar – Rat, Ox, Tiger, Rabbit, Dragon, Snake, Horse, Goat, Monkey, Rooster, Dog, and Pig – correspond to a roughly 12-year cycle versus the Western zodiac associated with constellations. In its cycle as the year of the Rat, a sign is known for being curious, smart, and resourceful, […]

The post These Luxury Timepieces are Celebrating The Year of The Rat appeared first on Upscale Living Magazine.

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