Celebrity Life

A consultant with extensive experience with top collectors and institutions around the world, Wendy Goldsmith talks to us about navigating the art world, her changing clientele, the Western market and Asian collectors.

Wendy Goldsmith first joined renowned British auction house Christie's 19th Century European Art department in London over 20 years ago. There, she would travel across Europe and West Asia, sourcing key material for auctions and heavily contributing to the house's name and fame. After becoming its youngest Director and Auctioneer, she moved to New York and became the International Head of 19th Century European Art. In 2003, she returned to London and established herself as a private art consultant – Goldsmith Art Advisory.

Goldsmith's experience includes achieving some world-record prices in the art auctioning world while working with top collectors and institutions around the world. These days, she works out of her Mayfair office, focusing on Impressionist, Modern and Contemporary paintings and sculpture. We talk to her about the importance of art advisors, navigating the art world and the Western market, and the changing face of Asian collectors.

Goldsmith Art Advisory's Wendy Goldsmith on Navigating the Art World

Where have you been spending time over the past two years?

The last two years have been spent mainly in the UK. When not working in London, I was exploring many of the regional British museums and staycationing in some of our gorgeous country hotels whenever openings allowed. The only trip abroad was a trip to America last spring when I was able to sneak in due to my American passport. It had been too long not to see clients.

Have you been able to travel when possible during the pandemic and have you noticed people's travel patterns changing due to it?

It was exceedingly difficult for people to travel, hence almost impossible for them to view paintings and attend art fairs – because they simply didn't exist. The vaccine became the gamechanger, allowing the confidence for globetrotting to the world’s cultural capitals once again.

Has the demographic of your client base altered in any way in recent years?

There is no question that the clients have become younger and younger and younger, and they start at a much higher level; in my day you'd have 50, 60, and 70-year-olds buying the great works and the younger ones would start collecting with prints. Now you have 25-year-olds starting with seven-figure pictures which, having done this for so long, I still find extraordinary. 40 percent of the new clients at auction are under 30, as they are so comfortable buying online as well which is where all the sales seamlessly moved to over lockdown. In addition, the depth of the market is like nothing we've ever seen. Almost every country is involved – there were many years when certain nationalities would dominate; the Japanese in the late 80s, then the Russians, then the Italians yet now, literally everyone is enjoying the ride, with Asia leading the way.

Are there particular types of works that are notably popular at the moment?

Art that is popular to Western buyers has been filtering over to the Asian audience over the last few seasons. Now you have Western artists appearing more and more in the Hong Kong sales, which we never saw before when they were dominated almost purely by Asian artists. The experiment was a great success, especially as Asian collectors are educated and sophisticated, wanting to collect in-depth. They started with the obvious artists such as Andy Warhol, but have moved on to the likes of Nicholas Party – not necessarily a household name for those outside of the art world.

Are there obstacles to accessing specific works from the Western market for Asian collectors? How can these obstacles be overcome?

The problem with the current market is that everyone seems to gravitate to the same artists, which makes access the most difficult hurdle. Working with an advisor helps to overcome these obstacles. They have usually worked for years to cultivate relationships with the galleries, along with various other key colleagues, in order for their clients to have priority for the next great work to appear by their coveted artist. The other way to gain access is auctioning, which is why we have seen some outstanding prices in recent years. The person who puts their hand up in the air longest is the one who wins. Cash is king. It’s the great equaliser, without any waiting lists.

How has the pandemic affected your own ways of working?

Technology changed everything, and thank goodness we had it. Viewings were impossible over lockdown although, at one point, I did have a warehouse opened up exclusively to show a client one painting. The entire warehouse was completely empty, except for the managing director showing us around. I had to pull a lot of strings to make that happen, but it was the only way that deal could have gone through. That was early on during Covid but as time went on, collectors became more and more accustomed to buying online, especially new ones, once they were familiar with an artist and could see a high res jpeg, or had faith in the seller such as the brand names of Christie’s or Sotheby’s.

How would you say the pandemic has affected the buying and selling behaviours of your clients? How so for a wider collector base?

It remains a problem for Asian collectors, especially Chinese, as they literally cannot leave the country. Nevertheless, when there is an exhibition in say, Hong Kong, there are queues out the door. Local collectors can’t go elsewhere to view and experience art, so this is a very big event for them, even more so than usual. Art Basel Hong Kong was a huge success in March. Then the series of auctions held at Christie's, Sotheby's and Phillips saw some extraordinary numbers from this captive audience.

When looking at recent sales in Hong Kong, is there anything notable in the types of collectors? Or the prices reached for particular works?

There is a trend in every sale. At the moment, collectors are looking at Black artists, they're looking at women artists and even within this field, they are looking at female surrealist artists. Every collector is always looking for the next big thing which speeds up exponentially. This again stems from technology. There's such unprecedented access to information so people's tastes are constantly in flux.

More broadly, art fairs in Hong Kong (from Art Basel in May to Unscheduled more recently) have in 2021 reported strong sales – do you have any comments on this in terms of what it says about the market in general? Does this have longevity?

The art world is not going anywhere. Again, there's just greater and greater depth of the market as a whole new generation of worldwide buyers come into the marketplace. The younger collectors obviously start at the contemporary side of things with what their friends are collecting and what they understand. Sometimes, they then work backwards to early modern, which looks like such good value in comparison at the moment. On the other hand, their parents started with some classic names they knew from their art history books – Van Gogh to Renoir to Picasso – but as these artists become harder and harder to come by (as well as increasingly more expensive), some of them realise that it was actually more fun in a way, once they collected what they wanted, to move on to contemporary. So it's really interesting where all the generations are meeting.

What might be your predictions as we come out of lockdown?

As we come out of lockdown, people are going to be more and more selective of the number of art fairs they attend, as well as the actual auctions. Having said that, they are also grasping any opportunity to see art in person once more. You can become familiar with paintings by a particular artist but nothing duplicates the experience of actually standing in front of a work of art. Interacting with artists is also the lifeblood for collectors – they love a good studio visit. They get great satisfaction from meeting with artists, understanding their thought processes, seeing their progress, supporting them and often, becoming friends. It is a dynamic that will last for hundreds of years.

Are there art fairs you have booked to visit in your calendar currently, now that some areas are opening up?

The size and numbers of art fairs may become reduced as many of the smaller galleries are realizing that without the huge expenses of these overheads, between travel, shipping and hotel costs, plus of course the cost of renting a booth for the fair, they can do just as much and more with .jpg and online viewing rooms. It’s also an impetus to get clients back into bricks and mortar galleries and view proper exhibitions. Nevertheless, I am looking forward to Art Basel Miami in early December, along with some excellent satellite fairs. Plus, everyone is in a good mood in the sun.

How can people try to navigate a complicated and increasingly overwhelming market?

The art world has become an almost impossible beast to navigate, even for professionals. That's why an art advisor is so essential if you're going to take collecting seriously. It would be physically impossible for a layperson to go to all the exhibitions, auction viewings, museum shows, gallery openings I attend, as well as read all the websites I look at, the previews for the shows and art fairs – not to mention the endless auction catalogues. So you really need someone in your corner: a support system, a teacher and an educator to really understand the complexities of this absolute minefield, especially when there can be so much money on the line. Art advisors pay for themselves, just in that aspect alone.

What advice would you give to burgeoning collectors unsure of how to build their collections?

You can't see enough. Look at art anywhere, anytime and at any opportunity. Start to really understand your taste which is why it also helps to see the bad, in order to understand the good. It can take years to gain the confidence and education to build a collection so there’s no need to rush but if you’re still unsure, some professional advice would make all the difference.

You can find out about Wendy Goldsmith and Goldsmith Art Advisory here.

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Luxury Lifestyle Awards has given NATC Jewels the honour of being the best jewellery brand in Europe in 2021.

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Coco Chanel's star sign marks the reopening of the flagship boutique at one of this city's most exclusive addresses – the Peninsula Hotel.

In September this year, following extensive renovations, Chanel reopened its flagship boutique at The Peninsula Hong Kong. The French luxury brand and The Peninsula hotel have a long history of partnership. Chanel first opened at the hotel some 42 years ago, a testament also to the brand’s long-standing presence in the city. Its boutique at the legendary address also demonstrates its commitment to constant innovation, so as to provide the ultimate luxury retail experience.

As with all Chanel boutiques, the maison commissioned New York-based architect Peter Marino to redesign and upgrade the store. Marino did not disappoint, once again capturing Chanel’s allure and timeless contemporaneity by harnessing the luxury brand’s codes of unbridled creativity, savoir-faire and the celebration of exceptional materials.

Spanning three floors, the revamped 7,900-square-foot store is dedicated to all things Chanel, from ready-to-wear to handbags, shoes, costume jewellery and eyewear, along with a selection of fragrances and watches, as well as high and fine jewellery.

The revamped store embodies the archetypal Chanel aesthetic. White and black marble lines the hotel’s ground-floor corridor, where the accessories section is located. Here are showcased seasonal bags and small leather goods, along with a full display of shoes, including the emblematic two-tone slingbacks and ballerinas.

A white-marble carpeted staircase, visible from the facade window, connects the ground floor to the mezzanine and the basement. On the latter, more accessories and bags are on display – including special collector’s bags – while the mezzanine floor houses three ready-to-wear salons. Here, styled looks are matched with seasonal bags and shoes against a backdrop of hand-made wall finishes, bespoke silk, and wool carpets in beige and black that evoke Chanel’s famous tweed. The three ready-to-wear salons are furnished with Coromandel-style glass mirror walls, custom warm-toned tweed sofas and unique coffee tables in black and gold, by Belgian artist Fernand Dresse; two bronze sculptural table lamps in a patina gold finish by French artist Laurence Montano intensify this inviting ambience. The dressing rooms are decorated with gold-tone artworks by Italian artist Gianfranco Zappettini and Belgian artist Johan Creten.

From the ready-to-wear section a sweeping staircase, with an eye-catching balustrade of 22 sets of rock crystals and brass soaked in gold. and designed by the goldsmith Goossens Paris, leads up to the Watches and Fine Jewellery boutique. Here, a Fine Jewellery VIP Salon features antique furniture and modern artworks, all specially chosen for this location. This intimate space enables guests to enjoy utmost privacy while perusing fine- and high-jewellery pieces that include Les Signatures creations, a unique capsule collection designed and created specifically for the opening of The Peninsula Hong Kong flagship boutique.

The collection, which comprises five pieces, is inspired by the mighty lion, the astrological sign of Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel, whose birthday falls on August 19. Throughout her life, Gabrielle Chanel – a devotee of astrology – believed in horoscopes and predictions. As such, lions and celestial motifs featured prominently in her work. Buttons, embroidery, buckles and, of course, jewellery featuring the lion’s noble face and other cosmic motifs can be found in many of her creations, as well as in the brand’s modern collections to honour her.

One of the most significant pieces in this tribute collection is the Constellation of Leo emerald signet-style ring. Inspired by the bold rings worn by Gabrielle Chanel, it features a magnificent octagonal emerald that echoes Place Vendôme in Paris. Once home to Gabrielle Chanel and now to one of the brand’s boutiques, this famous square has always been a source of inspiration for the French luxury house.

The vibrant emerald is surrounded by diamonds, while baguette-cut emeralds line the side to evoke The Peninsula’s opulent facade. What makes this ring extraordinary is a secret detail – a frontal face of a lion – which is only visible through the emerald.

Another majestic piece is the Constellation of Leo malachite necklace with a central medallion featuring a lion’s face crafted from a profusion of diamonds with a pear-shaped diamond on its forehead. Surrounded by intense green malachites, the swirling patterns and distinctive colour of this gemstone contrast beautifully against the silhouette of the star-studded diamond encrusted chain. A round diamond embedded in a gold star anchors this piece, providing an exquisite finishing touch.

Besides the signet ring, another ring in the capsule collection features a central pear-cut diamond that sits atop a diamond-encrusted lion’s head that’s supported by dazzling malachites and tsavorites at the side. By adapting materials and techniques, Chanel shows a new facet to Gabrielle Chanel’s favourite beast.

An interesting piece in this collection is a pair of mismatched earrings. This unique asymmetric pair almost mirror each other yet differ just slightly through the shape of a hanging diamond. One features a 1-carat pear-shaped drop diamond, while the other has a smaller round shape diamond set within a gold star. Both hang below a cascade of seductive malachites and tsavorites to make this an obvious statement piece for the ears.

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For newborns to toddlers, here's our pick of the best Christmas gifts for the new bundles of joy in your life.

If you're struggling to shop for new babies and toddlers in your life – be it your own, or your friends and families, this is the guide for you. Don't settle for yet another plastic toy or Barbie doll. Here are a few more ideas you might have missed.

Keep scrolling to shop our selection of best gifts for babies and toddlers during the holiday season.

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Pomellato isn't your typical fine jewellery brand. It prides itself for being different, for being bold and for being authentically, and fiercely, Milanese in its design and philosophy. This festive season, if you're looking for a gift for yourself or for the independent women in your life, you've come to the right place.

"Pomellato is about the beauty of being yourself," says CEO Sabina Belli, and wearing Pomellato can convey "a sense of power, independent, strength." The brand was created in 1967, at a time when women's rights were being affirmed. It was the dawn of a new era for new power, bringing to light a new generation of youths, women and creative minds.

Pomellato's founder was Pino Rabolini, who frequented the Brera's Bar Jamaica in Milan, an epicentre of progressive thinking for all artistic fields. When he established Pomellato, it brought a fashionable revolution to fine jewellery and was an integral part of the Milanese design renaissance.

Today, the brand carries on this independent spirit. While the world of fine jewellery can still be quite conservative, Pomellato is paving the way for jewellery that speaks directly to women who prefer to buy their own jewellery, and prefer jewellery pieces that liberate, rather than show off wealth and status.

With their unconventional yet timeless designs, Pomellato jewellery pieces are sure to excite the receiver, be it your closest women friends and family, even yourself.

Read on to discover the latest collections from Pomellato.

Nudo – gifts for the sophisticated woman

Take the Nudo collection for example, which debuted in 2001. At a time when ring settings tended to be more elaborate and traditional, Pomellato reduced the ring design to its bare essence, presenting its vivid coloured gemstones in its purest, most tactile form. The first collection featured vibrant hues of garnet, aquamarine, peridot, iolite and red tourmaline and enjoyed instant success all around the world.

This year, to celebrate its 20th anniversary, the Nudo Chocolate collection is born, bringing us a few new delectable designs.

The Nudo Chocolate collection is inspired by cacao sweet treats. Set with moonstones and brown diamonds on warming 18K rose gold, the rings, earrings and bangles are a departure from Nudo's usual colour palette, evoking a more subtle and sophisticated touch.

Iconica – gifts for the audacious woman

Design is at the forefront of the new jewellery pieces in the 2021 Iconica Collection. In sinuous gold, crafted in homage to Pomellato's origins in goldsmithing, the Iconica bracelets and chunky rings are sculpted from rose gold or white gold, with hand-carved diamond settings in the shapes of Pomellato stars, triangles, droplets, diamonds and squares.

There is also a precious colour parure in the collection, featuring a new "chain link" earring and a new hoop earring that comes with Pomellato's signature gemstone colours set in rose gold.

Catene – gifts for the fashionable woman

Catene, meaning chains in Italian, naturally features chain-inspired jewellery for the young, fashion-forward customer. Chains have always been a fashion staple, and have been at the very heard of the Pomellato story since the beginning. Founder Rabolini was the son of a Milanese family of goldsmiths who specialised in chain and ring-making. His Gourmet chain, when he debuted it, became the first fine jewel to be considered a fashion accessory.

Pomellato has mastered the technique for making supple chains, no matter whether they're stacks of chunky chokers or tiers of draped, gem-set chains. A long sautoir would require 16 hours to craft, while more elaborate gem-set versions could take up to 170 hours of meticulous work by Pomellato's craftsmen.

The timeless design makes the Catene collection the perfect daily essential with a Milanese sensibility. Composed of bracelets, rings and earrings, the collection features dangling and mobile chains in the Gourmette (curb chain) link style, which moves with the wearer as she goes about her day. The collection comes in rose gold with or without diamonds, or in white gold with diamonds.

Playful, sophisticated, stylish and timeless, each Pomellato jewellery piece is an embodiment of each individual's personality and style. It's sure to be a gift you would love to gift and receive.

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References from the original store in Rome is infused throughout this newly renovated Bvlgari store but with a modern twist.

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People often say the allure of diamonds are down to the 4 Cs – carat, clarity, cut and colour, but there's a growing curiosity, as new-generation consumers start asking the very conscious question: "Where do our diamonds come from and are they ethical?" If they're not – scintillatingly beautiful they may be, we might feel too guilty to purchase diamond jewellery.

As we globally move towards more sustainable practices that minimise our carbon footprint and protect the earth, more and more people are looking towards eco-conscious jewellery that use recycled metals, conflict-free, even sustainable lab-grown diamonds.

In the words of The Future Rocks founder and CEO, Anthony Tsang, states that "at The Future Rocks, we are committed to bringing lab-grown diamonds into the mainstream. Our vision is about reshaping the jewellery industry through the powers of a collective force, which is why The Future Rocks is built around a shared platform for like-minded international labels and designers.

At our core, The Future Rocks is about enjoying the pleasures of life while creating a better future – and we believe lab-grown diamonds will be part of this future. The Future Rocks is a state of mind. Lab-grown diamonds are just the start of this journey."

Discerning consumers today ask for transparency and accountability in companies and look for sustainable alternatives that don't compromise on style. The Future Rocks presents exactly this vision, bringing together a constellation of eco-conscious jewellery brands that share in its values of sustainability, ethics and diversity. Promoting the use of lab-grown diamonds that are more ethical, the new platform offers discerning shoppers a marketplace to discover the best eco-conscious designer brands through authentic storytelling and a curated shopping experience.

On The Future Rocks' unique marketplace, you'll find a wide range of socially responsible brands from around the world that share the same philosophy. Discover brands such as Paris-based Courbet, Japanese brand PRMAL, Spanish brand Rêver and London-based Monarc, all of whom are trusted and credible brands that offer ethical and stylish jewellery, using responsibly-sourced materials, including recycled gold and lab-grown diamonds.

According to the Gemological Institute of America, "lab-grown diamonds have the same chemical composition and crystal structure as diamonds created by nature." Laboratory-made diamonds are grown in a lab that replicates the Earth's conditions, thus ensuring each lab-grown diamond is traceable and come with a lower carbon footprint.

Built on a shared vision to create a better future – of which lab-grown diamonds are a big part – we can rest assured that The Future Rocks curates only the best of brands that firmly believe in their strong ethos while still designing emotional and meaningful jewellery. Beautiful jewellery with a good conscience; this is what the future of jewellery should look like.

Shop now at The Future Rocks here.

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