Viña Concha y Toro celebrated its 40th anniversary since its arrival in Asia by presenting one of Chile’s leading Cabernet Sauvignons, Don Melchor, at Vinexpo Hong Kong 2018, where guests were able to sample the wine’s newest expression, the 2016. We meet the Chilean winemaker’s Owner of Concha y Toro and Fine Wine Marketing Director, Isabel Guilisasti – the first Chilean woman to be appointed to Vinexpo’s Board – at an intimate gathering at Sevva, where she chats with wine enthusiasts over a gorgeous dinner on a fine evening. Guilisasti reminds us that the Don Melchor 2016’s “outstanding flavours and aromas [are a result of] how the season presented temperatures that were lower than usual, [and how] grapes from each parcel of the vineyard were carefully selected and vinified separately in small-volume stainless-steel tanks before spending 14 months in French oak barrels.”
With decades of experience in the industry, Guilisasti shares her perspectives on Viña Concha y Toro’s wines and the wine business.
SEE ALSO: The Best of Vinexpo 2018
What would you say makes Chilean wine unique?
To start, our unique geology and climate offer exceptional winemaking conditions. With the Pacific Ocean to the west and the Andes mountain range to the east, our vineyards enjoy salty cool ocean breezes, hot days and cool nights – perfect for growing grapes. Our winemaking efforts span back centuries, when frontrunners such as Don Melchor, the founder of the Viña Concha y Toro winery, brought grape seeds from Europe to Chile. Today, Chilean wineries like Viña Concha y Toro continue to be renowned for their exceptional quality in comparison to their prices. Finally, the wine industry in Chile puts a special emphasis on terroir-driven wines, which means that we spend years identifying the best vineyard locations. With careful consideration of the land and climate, as well as the weather in any particular year, Chilean winemakers have become pioneers in producing the very best expressions.
In one of your interviews, you’ve mentioned the Chilean tradition of having red wine with empanadas. What kinds of dishes would Viña Concha y Toro wines be ideally paired with?
Our newly released Don Melchor Vintage 2016 has a predominance of small red fruit notes and delicate tannins, and pairs exceptionally well with red meats, especially lamb and game; terrines and pâtés, especially truffled duck pâté; and dry and aged or creamy cow or goat milk cheeses.
What sets Don Melchor apart from other fine wines?
Don Melchor was Chile’s first ultra-premium wine, crafted in the Puente Alto terroir and sharing its first vintage with the world in 1987. It was named for the legendary founder of the Viña Concha y Toro winery and it has earned more acclaim than any other Chilean wine, year upon year, for its consistently outstanding yet uniquely diverse vintages. With nine of its vintages in the Wine Spectator top 100 Wines of the Year and three vintages in the top 10, and with seven vintages above 94 points from Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, this year at Vinexpo Hong Kong 2018 we shared a special release in recognition of the brand’s 30th anniversary – Don Melchor Vintage 2016. Demonstrating its unique growing conditions marked by cool temperatures and concentrated rainfall in the winter season, Don Melchor Vintage 2016 displays a tremendous aromatic expression, perfectly balanced flavours and a lively fruit finish.
What would you say is the difference in impact on the palate between a varietal wine and a blend?
It’s a question of experiencing the unique characteristics that define a particular variety of grape (which you get when sampling varietals) versus enjoying the endless possibilities of blending different varieties and origins to try a unique balance of flavour and complexity. This is why most of the top wines of the world such as the Grand Crus of Bordeaux are blends. In the case of Don Melchor, even though this is labelled as a Cabernet Sauvignon, it is a blend of different Cabernets which is due to the unique characteristics of the terroir.
To experience the difference in impact, we recommend sampling two Viña Concha y Toro wines side by side: a varietal and a blend.
Our Casillero del Diablo Reserva Especial Cabernet Sauvignon represents an exceptional varietal, having been grown in the Cauquenes Valley in soils with abundant red clay and granite. Combining the dry Mediterranean climate and coastal influences, this final single-origin wine reveals a deep purplish-red colour with delicate black fruit aromas, a striking character and firm tannins.
Our Marques de Casa Concha Etiqueta Negra is a top-of-the-line red blend with great elegance, complexity and sense of origin. Composed of Cabernet Sauvignon, delivering structure; Cabernet Franc, bringing fruity character; and Petit Verdot, lending complexity, the final blend is aged in French oak barrels for tremendous body, character, balance and tension.
What about organic, or natural, wines? What does the lack of sulphite change, if anything?
While organic wine doesn’t inherently taste different than wine grown traditionally, many consumers today do prefer to choose wine made from grapes grown in a sustainable or organic manner. The key is to produce high quality wines first and that organic should be an additional benefit to the consumer. It should not be a trade-off, nor should it be the case that consumers pay more for a wine just because it is organic.
In regard to sulphites, it should be noted that sulphur is a natural product, so sulphite-free wines are really an extension of organic. Sulphites, in the form of sulphur dioxide (SO2), are almost universally added to wines to protect against unwanted microbial growth and oxidation so as to preserve it in the best condition; SO2 is thought to be harmless at the levels typically found in wine, but some asthmatics react badly to it so for them it may be a good option.
Decanting and ageing capacities: which types of wine would you say do improve with time?
Generally speaking the requirement for decanting and the aging capacity of wine is driven by the characteristics that it has, particularly in terms of acidity, concentration of flavours and tannic structure. A fresh Sauvignon Blanc, for example, is generally at its best at a young age and there is no benefit from decanting as it will not enhance the drinking experience. However, high quality premium red wines which have oak ageing and a good tannin structure are those that have the longest ageing capacity. In the case of Don Melchor, our first vintage, 1987, is still drinking well now, so we believe these wines can age for a minimum of 30 years. However, this can mean that at a younger age these tannins can be quite aggressive, in young Bordeaux for example. These wines benefit from decanting as it allows oxygen to interact with the wine, softening the attack and then giving a more balanced wine. For older wines, decanting can be useful not just to soften the tannins, but also to support the removal of sediments formed in the ageing process.
Why do you think the wine market in East Asia has been growing?
Digital commerce and the rising middle class are two key reasons that the wine market in East Asia just keeps growing and growing. In addition, many younger consumers are more frequently traveling abroad where they develop an interest in wine, particularly New World wines.
What are some of the most curious things you’ve learned about wine in the industry?
Did you know that you can tell the region and climate of the grape vine by looking at the colour of the wine? Darker wines generally indicate that the grapes were grown in a warmer climate, whereas lighter coloured wines come from a cooler climate. Also, most people believe that fertile soils produce the best fruit, but for wine grapes we want poor soils as they naturally limit the vines production, concentrating all those amazing flavours and colours into less grapes. The end result is some spectacular wines.
Finally, is it a myth that good wine needs to be an expensive one? And what really is a “good” wine?
The first step in choosing a “good” wine is to understand your own palate and preferences. Do you prefer red, white or sparkling? Which variety and origin do you find yourself reaching for most often? Do you prefer wines with fresh aromas which are food-friendly, or do you seek out bottles with a strong identity and ageing potential?
It is certainly a myth that good wine must be expensive! At Viña Concha y Toro we always say that there are only two kinds of wine – the wine you like and the wine you don’t like, independent of whether it is the cheapest or the most expensive bottle. It’s important to choose a wine or brand that’s passionate about quality and delights you when you drink it. A “good” wine is not just about the quality but also about the occasion; your most memorable wines are not just about the wine itself but also about the food or friends that you shared it with!
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