Celebrity Life
The 10 Best Wines of 2019
My son Jack, senior editor Nick Stock and I are going to remember 2019 for a long time. It was the year that we discovered more than 50 perfect wines among the 25,000 we rated. In fact, we can’t remember a year quite like it: every major wine region released great wines on to the market, the majority being from the 2015 and 2016 vintages. These duo vintages will long be remembered much like 1989 and 1990 for Bordeaux. However, 2017 and 2018 should not be forgotten – both produced some exceptional wines, particularly whites.
Every year we list the best wines we tasted. While the emphasis is on quality, special preference is given to more affordable wines. For example, the Top 10 listed here are all priced at less than US$80 (HK$625) a bottle.
The wines on our list show the diversity of greatness in the wine world today, with entries from Italy, Spain, Germany, France, New Zealand, Chile and Argentina. But of particular note this year were wines from Brunello di Montalcino in Italy’s Tuscany region. We tasted close to 200 wines from the 2015 vintage and dozens scored 95 points or more. We gave 11 perfect 100-point ratings. The Siro Pacenti Brunello di Montalcino Vecchie Vigne 2015 is our Wine of the Year. It’s a perfect example of what makes 2015 Brunello so compelling to buy and drink. There’s a real energy and excitement to tasting it. The 2015 Brunello di Montalcinos are available beginning January.
SIRO PACENTI BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO VECCHIE VIGNE 2015
Score 100
This is a perfect example of what makes 2015 Brunello so compelling. The Siro Pacenti really has a “wow” factor. We tasted it at least five times over the summer and we liked it more and more. Like all the best 2015 Brunellos, the Pacenti Brunello 2015 shows super intensity of cool and dark fruits as well as stones and flowers, and opens to a full and plush body of expansive yet utterly refined tannins that coat your palate in a caressing way. It shows glorious transparency and communication. It’s one of the best young Brunellos I’ve tasted in my four- decade career and I’ve been tasting Brunellos professionally since 1983.
Owner Giancarlo Pacenti says his 2015 Brunello is “the wine of his career.” And we have to agree. It’s very intense on the nose with blue fruit, cool stones, brambleberries and blackberries. Wet earth, too. Full-bodied and extremely dense and powerful with a super center palate of fruit and ripe yet compact tannins. Lightly chewy and expressive. Superb transparency and integration. Goes on for minutes. Try from 2021, but already amazing.
RENIERI BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2015
Score 100
Marco Bacci of Chianti Classico’s well- respected Castello di Bossi bought this gorgeous Brunello vineyard in the late 1990s. However, it’s only now that the wines are coming into their own. This is probably because the vines are at a good age to yield superlative grapes. Renieri has been producing excellent wines – both Brunellos di Montalcino and Super Tuscans – since the 2006 vintage. The former show fabulous depth and fruit yet remain polished.
This 2015 Brunello has earthy aromas: bark, sand, truffles, graphite, rust, terracotta and sandalwood rise up from the deep with Burgundian poise; fruitier orange zest and preserved lemons glimmer in their wake, while riper incense and tar lurk in this dense forest of aromas. There’s such richness to the centre palate, but the fruit there is vivacious and elegant, swaddled in robust but generous tannins. The finish is hauntingly long, the aftereffects of the acidity unworldly. This is certainly in a quiet, reserved stage of evolution, and will need time to fully mature in bottle. Drink from 2025.
MUGA RIOJA PRADO ENEA GRAN RESERVA 2011
Score 99
Muga is one of the classic wines estates in La Rioja, Spain. It produces a diverse range of styles, but the owners strive to create classic wines for the region, characterised by finesse and elegance as well as structure and depth. They’re made for drinking, but age incredibly well. I’m invariably impressed by the reds, especially the Reservas. The wines spend years ageing in barrels, an important feature in distinctive Rioja-style wines. The Gran Reservas in particular are aged three years in oak and another three years in bottle.
This is the most structured Prado Enea ever. A reduced centre palate that is so compact with dark fruit, dark mushrooms and cedary spice. Full body. Wonderfully polished tannins and a long, long finish. Electric acidity. Muscular and well toned. This is a new classic that reminds me of great Spanish wines from the 1940s and 1950s. Better after 2021, but already so impressive.
MARCHESI ANTINORI UMBRIA CERVARO DELLA SALA 2017
Score 99
What would the wine world be like without the Antinori family? The patriarch of the clan, Piero Antinori, forever changed the way the world views Tuscan wines with the invention in the 1970s of Tignanello, followed by Solaia. Many of Antinori’s wines maintain a loyal following among collectors around the world. The sleek, structured wines of Guado al Tasso represent Antinori’s continued connection to Tuscany’s Bolgheri. Indeed, the Antinoris make wine in many of the key appellations in Italy and the world, but Tuscany remains home.
This is big and powerful, without being ripe and heavy. So much apple, stone and hints of toffee. Aromatic. Full-bodied, layered and framed with phenolic tension and a great finish. Muscular and agile at the same time. One of the best I’ve tasted. Drink or hold.
SCHÄFER-FRÖHLICH RIESLING NAHE FELSENECK GG 2018
Score 99
With the hugely talented Tom Fröhlich – who made several savvy vineyard acquisitions after taking over in 1995 – at the head of this estate, Schäfer-Fröhlich has become a standard-bearer for great Riesling from Germany’s Nahe.
Very pure slate here – this is something unique. The elevated, steep and stony site has such strength of character, delivered with such purity. Gunsmoke, gunflint and very fine fragrance with a streak of fresh lemons. It has a super-fine and elegant feel, floating ballet-like over the palate. Such elegance and power. The finesse and length are really ethereal. Yellow- grapefruit juice and pith here. Wildly succulent at the long, salty finish. What a thrilling wine. Drink or hold.
RIPPON PINOT NOIR CENTRAL OTAGO MATURE VINE 2010
Score 100
This biodynamically farmed wine estate in New Zealand’s Central Otago region not only produces great Pinot Noirs, but it could also be one of the most beautiful wine estates in the world. With a vineyard that sits against a lake, backed by mountains and clear skies, five generations of the same family have turned it into one of the best producers in the region.
This has such freshness, at between nine and 10 years of age. It delivers a very rich, blue- fruit core with spiced earth and light, leathery nuances. The palate has composed and compact tannins and a slinky and rich, powerful array of blueberries and a long, juicy, succulent and vibrant finish. Shows just how well Rippon pinots age. This is just getting started! From biodynamically grown grapes. Maturation release. Drink or hold.
CHÂTEAU LARCIS-DUCASSE ST.-EMILION 2016
Score 99
When Larcis-Ducasse brought consultants Nicolas Thienpont and Stephane Derenoncourt into the estate to turn around what looked like a flailing business, they couldn’t have hoped for better results. The two improved drainage, harvesting techniques and moved to organic methods on the estate, and the wines are now rich, textured and very age-worthy.
The aromas here are so spellbinding, with shiitake mushrooms, wet earth and moss, as well as tree bark and, finally, dark fruit. The palate is incredible as it builds and grows with full body, but is always tight and reserved. It shows so much depth and complexity. Please try not to touch this until 2025.
EREDI FULIGNI BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2015
Score 100
Situated on the northern slope of Montalcino, this small winery makes wines with incredible finesse and intensity. For the last three decades, law professor and family member Roberto Guerrini has been overseeing the wine estate. His wines are as complex and refined as the symphonic music he enjoys. Guerrini is a man of impeccable taste, and he personifies the unique and subtle character of his wines. Hence, the wines here show perfect balance and exquisite complexity.
The purity of fruit on the nose is perfection, with cherries, crushed raspberries, mineral, pumice and citrus fruit. Dust, too. Full body. Powerful, chewy tannins. So long and muscular, yet polished and formed. The most structured Brunello I’ve ever had from here. A wine for decades. Try from 2022.
ERRÁZURIZ PINOT NOIR ACONCAGUA COSTA LAS PIZARRAS 2018
Score 99
Errázuriz is among the most venerable producers in Chile’s Aconcagua Valley. The winery was founded by Don Maximiano Errázuriz in 1870, which gives it almost 150 years of rich history. Today, Eduardo Chadwick – a fifth-generation family member – manages the estate. Benefitting from the hot summers and cool winters of Aconcagua, Errázuriz’s vineyards are home to Bordeaux varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, as well as Carmenere, Malbec and Syrah. Aside from high-quality reds of elegance and complexity, Errázuriz also makes Chardonnays with great minerality.
This wine has great aromas of dried strawberries and fresh flowers, such as lavender. Full-bodied yet very tight and focused. Impressive tannic structure, but refined and polished. Lightly chewy. Finishes tight and refined. Best Pinot of Chile. Drink from 2022, but hard to hold back.
CHEVAL DES ANDES MENDOZA 2016
Score 99
A joint venture between Châteaux Cheval Blanc in Bordeaux and Terrazas de Los Andes in Argentina (which is owned by Louis-Vuitton Moët-Hennessy), Cheval Des Andes focuses its efforts on producing the best Malbecs of the region. It’s the best of two worlds: a combination of the intense Argentinean fruit and the elegance that comes with French style. Super refined and beautiful with flowers, spices, dried fruit and hints of stones. Medium to full body with very fine tannins and a gorgeous finish. Shows great finesse and depth. Savoury character, as always, but in check. Drink from 2022.
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James Suckling on America’s Wine Revolution
Beyond Napa, Washington and Oregon, an undiscovered world is emerging from the fine wine corners of the United States that until now have been hidden in the shadows.
When Asian wine collectors -- and, indeed, those in the rest of the world -- think about American wine, the focus is almost entirely on the West Coast. Producers from Napa Valley, mainly, but also the states of Oregon and Washington dominate not just the thinking, but the buying too. Collectors and wine lovers battle for big names like Screaming Eagle, Harlan, Colgin, Schrader, Dominus Estate (California/Napa Valley), Nicolas Jay (Oregon), and B.Leighton (Washington), neglecting other high-quality wineries around the country.
The truth is that wine is produced in all the states of the Union. For example, Colorado may seem like an extremely unlikely place to make wine, but the state has 198 wineries and many outstanding quality wines exist.
The JamesSuckling.com tasting team looked at wines from top producers in the west (Idaho, Colorado, Arizona, New Mexico and Texas), the east (North Carolina, Virginia, Maryland, Pennsylvania, New York and New Jersey) and the centre (Ohio, Michigan and Missouri) while tasting nearly 900 bottles, documenting not just quality but also the remarkable stylistic and varietal diversity that’s emerging across America. Many of these wineries are revolutionising their winemaking to make truly excellent bottles that are often a fraction of the price of the bigger names from the West Coast.
Our top-scoring dry white was the 2016 The Knoll, a rich and highly structured dry Riesling from Red Newt on the east bank of Seneca Lake in the Finger Lakes region of New York that we rated 96 points. We compare it to the legendary white of Alsace, Trimbach Clos Ste Hune. The difference is that Clos Ste Hune retails for about US$175 and The Knoll costs just US$40.
And to give a sense of the pioneering creativity going on in these wineries, Red Newt owns no vines. The Knoll comes from a single block at Lahoma Vineyards on Seneca Lake planted in 2008.
[caption id="attachment_166701" align="alignnone" width="5807"] The RdV winery in Delaplane, Virginia[/caption]
“The dedication of grape growers like Harlan and Kenny Fulkerson of Lahoma Vineyards is the foundation of everything we do,” says Kelby Russell, winemaker at Red Newt. “Whether from working harvests in Tasmania and the Barossa Valley in Australia or from visits to colleagues in Germany and Alsace, the joy for me is in connecting the winemaking ideas to meet the high standards we have for each vineyard site.” That combination enabled him to develop a radically new style of dry Riesling in the Finger Lakes.
Our top red wine, the 2016 Lost Mountain from RdV in Delaplane, Virginia, also rated 96. It’s much more expensive, at US$150, but this Cabernet Sauvignon-based blend has a stunning combination of concentration and fine-grained tannins. If you find some cult California Cabernets a bit too heavy, then you should find Lost Mountain more than exciting. It has the fruit purity of Napa with the finesse and structure of Bordeaux.
Rutger de Vink, owner at RdV, was a platoon commander in the US Marines until 1996. “The Marine Corps wasn’t a job for me but a way of life, and I wanted to find that feeling again,” he says. “So in 2001 I worked the harvest at Linden Vineyards in Northern Virginia and I fell in love with working in the vineyard. After a three-year search I bought the land in Delaplane and started RdV in 2004.”
[caption id="attachment_166702" align="alignnone" width="2176"] A blind-tasting session[/caption]
Beyond these magical bottles, we found dozens of other outstanding white, sparkling and red wines with outstanding quality and most sell for between US$15 and US$40 a bottle. Tasting the American wine revolution doesn’t have to cost a fortune.
The idea of American wine from places other than California, Washington State and Oregon is exciting. It illustrates America’s pioneering spirit as well as the trend for authentic food and gastronomic experiences from heirloom vegetables to craft beer.
Not coincidentally, our tasting also showed the power of terroir. The highest ratings went to wines from producers who let their vineyards speak. This represents a sea change in American regional wines over the last few decades. Gone are the days of modest goals, no longer are “standard” and recognisable varietal flavours -- sometimes created rather than grown from haphazardly selected sites -- de rigueur.
The best producers across America know their sites and plant genetics as never before. And they don’t limit themselves to conventional wisdom about what to grow.
The diversity of these American wines reflects the vast climatic and geological range across America. It’s a wine continent, just like Australia or Europe. On top of that, dozens of grape varieties are cultivated, many of which have a great significance in just a couple of locations.
[caption id="attachment_166700" align="alignnone" width="3648"] The road to Barboursville Vineyards in Virginia[/caption]
For example, Dr Konstantin Frank made a striking dry white in the Finger Lakes in 2017 from the Rkatsiteli grape, a native of Georgia in the Caucasus Mountains, that rated 93 points. In the same year, Galen Glen made a dry Grüner Veltliner -- the signature grape of Austria -- in the Lehigh Valley of Pennsylvania that’s brimming with yellow melon and peach aromas and that rated 92. We also loved the vibrant red that Red Fox made in the Grand Valley, Colorado from the Teroldego grape of northeastern Italy in 2016. It has a ton of wild berry character and rated 91 points. This complex picture is another reason why these wines are underreported.
So yes, the wines of the American West Coast are great and will command attention. But the adventurous spirit and collegiate camaraderie of winemakers elsewhere is seeing them emerge from the shadows, with bottles exploring new ideas and priced attractively.
Find James Suckling’s recommended American bottles here:
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For more reviews and tasting notes, see JamesSuckling.com.
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James Suckling’s Top 5 American Wines
Feeling a little outlandish? Find out Jame Suckling's top recommended "alternative" American wines to try below:
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Incandescent Italians: James Suckling’s Favourite Italian Wines
After tasting nearly 2,500 Italian wines so far this year, James Suckling picks out the highlights.
From amazing 100-point reds like Antinori Solaia 2016, Masseto 2016, and Bruno Giacosa Falletto Barolo Vigna Le Rocche 2015, to crisp and enticing whites from Alto Adige and Friuli, and some sensationally balanced and fruit-driven wines from the Veneto such as Amarone, there are plenty of exciting Italian wines to buy this year.
In April, my son Jack and I decided to do a major Italian tasting in our office in Tuscany, reviewing wines from key producers from the top appellations of the country. We had already tasted hundreds of reds from prestigious appellations such as Brunello di Montalcino and Barolo in January. The April tasting brought the number of Italian wines tasted this year to almost 2,500, and among them were literally hundreds of outstanding to classic quality reds. Italy is crushing it with characterful and beautiful wines at the moment.
[caption id="attachment_161867" align="alignnone" width="2736"] 2016 vintages from Ricasoli[/caption]
Tuscany took the biggest share of our tasting time. We found many fantastic wines from two great back-to-back vintages, 2015 and 2016. The wet 2014 vintage proved more difficult, especially in Brunello di Montalcino, where many wines are slightly diluted. Conversely, the hot and dry 2017 vintage made some extraordinary wines considering the difficult growing season (particularly in cooler areas such as Chianti Classico) but some jammy and over extracted wines exist. So, take caution. The region of Chianti Classico in general is on a high for quality wines this year, not just because of the September release of the legendary Solaia (we rated both the 2015 and 2016 100 points).
A range of single-vineyard wines are proving real knockouts, too. For example, Barone Ricasoli’s single-vineyard Chianti Classico Gran Seleziones are truly exceptional young and pure Sangioveses with distinctive character and superlative quality. Chianti Classico Ceniprimo Gran Selezione 2016 (99 points), Chianti Classico Ceniprimo Gran Selezione 2015 (98 points), and Chianti Classico Roncicone Gran Selezione 2016 (98 points) are shining examples of the appellation finally emphasising the greatness of its terroir. We hope more of these wines -- including village designations for reds such as the towns Gaiole or Panzano -- will highlight how Chianti Classico is akin to Italy’s new Burgundy.
“I don’t remember two consecutive years like 2015 and 2016,” says Marco Bacci, owner of Castello di Bossi in Chianti Classico, Renieri in Brunello di Montalcino and Terre di Talamo in the Maremma. “They are some of the greatest years for Sangiovese.”
[caption id="attachment_161868" align="alignnone" width="3648"] All in a day's work -- tasting in Barolo[/caption]
All the regions in Tuscany are releasing outstanding wines this year, even Brunello di Montalcino if you focus on the 2013 riservas. It’s a shame about the slightly diluted and light 2014 Brunellos. The growing season was just too grey and wet to produce classic quality Brunello. We suggest you wait for the release of the 2015 Brunellos in January 2020. Stay tuned for some early tasting results later in the year; the wines will be significantly better than the average 2014 Brunellos or even the excellent 2013 riservas. They could be even better than the legendary 2010.
“The 2015 is the greatest Brunello of my career,” admits Vincenzo Abbruzzese, the owner of the great estate of Valdicava.
There will be much debate whether 2015 is better than 2016 or vice versa, particularly in Tuscany. But Jack and I believe that 2015 is a little better than 2016 because it has more intensity and riper tannins. Yet 2016 is very exciting as well with slightly firmer tannins and fresher acidity.
The same debate will rage in Piedmont for the 2015 and 2016 vintages. We experienced the excellence of the 2015 Barolos after an extensive tasting in Barolo in January, and we tasted dozens more bottles in April. We like their harmony and beauty at such an early stage. Sure, they have firm and structured tannins, but the brightness and clarity of ripe fruit gives them an energy and beauty that is rarely seen today in Piedmont. I think the vintage is the best in years and better than 2010. The 2016s will be tasted later this year and in early 2020.
As we noted earlier this year, there are also a number of exciting riserva Barolos with anything from a few extra years of bottle age to 10 years just now being released on the market. We love this trend in fine Barolo.
[caption id="attachment_161870" align="alignnone" width="2736"] Cellar holding old vintages of Aldo Conterno Barolo Gran Bussia[/caption]
“We’ve been very lucky with so many outstanding quality years recently,” admits Alberto Chiarlo, whose family runs the well-known estate of Michele Chiarlo. “Our know-how and dedication continues to grow in fine winemaking and this reflects in our wines from the region.”
Veneto is another region that caught our attention in the tasting in April with many wines showing balance and transparency instead of overripe, opaque character. Amarone and Ripasso are particularly strong in reds while Soave is consistently making complex and fresh whites. A new generation is making wines in the region and they clearly understand vineyard management and winemaking to produce focused and vivid wines. We look forward to exploring the region this summer. All the vintages recently released on the market produced outstanding wines, but 2013 looks particularly excellent for the top wines.
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Other parts of the north, such as Alto Adige and Friuli, made some beautiful whites and a limited number of fascinating reds. I remember Alto Adige remained green and fresh during the boiling 2017 summer when we filmed our documentary The Miracle of Alto Adige and in turn made fresh and fruity whites at extremely high quality levels, not to mention some fruity and delicious reds such as Lagrein and Pinot Noir.
The south of Italy also showed consistent results with many outstanding wines. We tasted a lot of Sicilian wines and Etna still makes the best of them. Recent excellent vintages include 2014, 2015 and 2016. However, Campania may be making even more exciting wines. It’s a magical place with its volcanic soils, diverse microclimates and amazing history.
“We’re going back to many of the old viticulture and winemaking ideas of the 1960s and 1970s that made some legendary wines, but in a modern way,” says Piero Mastroberardino, the head of the famous family winery bearing his surname. “We have some of our best wines yet coming out.”
It’s comments like these that make us ready for the next set of tastings -- this summer and in the future. We plan to review between 5,000 and 6,000 Italian wines this year and we know we’re going to find great and exciting wines from all of Italy.
Find James Suckling’s top Italian bottles of 2019 here:
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For more reviews and tasting notes, see JamesSuckling.com.
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James Suckling’s Top 5 Italian Wines of 2019
From Barolo to Fontalloro, read on for acclaimed wine critic Jame Suckling's top Italian bottles that he tasted and reviewed in 2019, all of which are available in Hong Kong.
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Burgundy’s Quiet Little Secret Is Beaujolais
Now is the time to drink Beaujolais. The wine from this warm, welcoming French region just north of Lyon has traditionally been regarded as something of a poor man’s Burgundy, a cheap, cheerful bottle to drink rather than collect. But the quality coming out of many of the wineries of Beaujolais in the last few years shows how “cheap” can quickly translate into “great value”, and I look forward to every new release. The region is teeming with energy and has also attracted an army of talented and ambitious younger winemakers keen to explore its beautifully diverse potential, a treasure of old vines and diverse terroirs.
For starters, the recent swing towards natural wines sprang from the late Jules Chauvet in the Beaujolais region. Today, 30 years after his death, Chauvet’s philosophy and methods still reside in the minds and practices of many current Beaujolais producers. Yet there are also dozens of traditional winemakers producing handcrafted, soulful bottles.
More widely, the world’s taste for lighter and more balanced wine has been met by many Beaujolais producers as they move to make the Gamay grape (nearly all Beaujolais wine is made from Gamay) a more interesting, compelling and profound shade of red. Gamay has an ability to instantly deliver juicy, flavoursome and satisfying reds for immediate drinking, creating wines that have depth, tannin structure and ageing potential.
And look at the prices. Most of the top wines sell out of their cellar door at between €10 to €20 a bottle to consumers -- even in a great vintage like 2015. Winemakers lament they barely make enough to cover their costs. “We don’t make wine to get rich,” says Jean-Paul Thévenet of Fleurie. “We make wine for people to drink and enjoy.”
The 2015 vintage will certainly do that. Historic vintages don’t come very often in Beaujolais, but the 2015 draws comparisons to the legendary 1947, a hot and dry year producing powerfully rich and long-lived wines. The most recent vintage on the market, 2018, may be even better than 2015. And great vintages like these can age. I have drunk bottles that are half a century old and they’re still in good shape.
The 2015s I’ve reviewed were rich in alcohol and fruit with an underlying freshness. Many were amazing wines showing wonderful depth of fruit and ripe tannins. Tasting them alongside the 2014s and 2016s, the 2015s showed superior depth and density. The balance of fruit, structure and acidity was irresistible.
“People say that 2015 is like 1947, but I was actually there in 1947,” recalls the 84-year-old Georges Duboeuf, the patriarch of the famous Beaujolais firm. “The grapes that were fermenting in our wooden vats in Pouilly-Fuissé were so hot that my grandmother made me get ice to put in the must. I can’t say if 2015 is at the same level but it is exceptional. Everything was excellent in 2015.” [inline_related_article article_id="137204"]
The top wines of 2015 are more expressive than most. Some seem more like ripe Grenache or Syrah than Gamay. Many bottles are more than 14 percent alcohol. Others push 15 percent. But the magic in cru Beaujolais is that they still showed their true character despite the sunny vintage and all of the fruit and alcohol that came with it. The Moulin-à-Vents had excellent linear structure. The Fleurie showed great aromatics and fine tannins. Côte de Brouilly exhibited an underlying tannic strength. The character of 2018 seems very much the same but with more freshness.
“People have been too focussed on Beaujolais nouveau,” says Nicole Chanrion, a small grower making excellent wines on her small estate in Cercié in Côte de Brouilly. “We want people to understand that Beaujolais is made to be drunk from one to five years on release.”
Sonja Geoffray of Château Thivin in Côte de Brouilly adds, “I’m a little sad that most of the 2015 Beaujolais will be drunk right away. They will be so much better in a few years.”
The 2016 and 2017 vintages are also both highly regarded, proving that Beaujolais is on a roll, not to mention the just-coming-out superb 2018. “I like the 2016 wines,” says Alex Foillard, one of Beaujolias’ young producers. “They show great typicity, freshness and fruit. They are very drinkable wines with lower alcohols.”
And the 2017s showed off the diversity of the region. Some highlights: The Michel Guignier Morgon Canon 2017 delivers a more brash, dark fruit impression; powerful yet thrillingly seductive. Château Thivin Côte- de-Brouilly Cuvée Zaccharie 2017 shows how oak can be deployed to heighten great Beaujolais. This wine is certainly going to repay cellaring.
The 2017 Morgon Montchoisy from Jean-Claude Debeaune really takes the appellation to another level again. Super dark fruits are wrapped in dark chocolate-like flavours and carried on long velvety tannins. A must-try wine and completely enthralling. And Antoine Sunier’s Morgon 2017 offers a plush array of ripe fruit in the strawberry and cherry zone. A beautifully conceived wine.
Good quality Beaujolais clearly has its place in the growing premium wine market of today so you need to take it seriously, especially considering the reasonable prices. Asia, particularly Hong Kong, is overheated with excitement for wine from Burgundy’s Côte d’Or, but in doing so it’s overlooking one of the treasures of France -- Beaujolais.
Find James Suckling's top Beaujolais bottles here:
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For more reviews and tasting notes, see JamesSuckling.com.
The post Burgundy’s Quiet Little Secret Is Beaujolais appeared first on Prestige Online - Hong Kong.
James Suckling’s Top Beaujolais Bottles
Michel Guignier Morgon Canon 2017
Score: 97
Very impressive red and dark berries with a layer of fresh flowers and sous bois. The palate has a super-juicy edge with fine yet assertive acidity and a long, richly fruited finish. Impressive clarity and power in terms of structure. Drink or hold.
Yohan Lardy Moulin-a-Vent Vieilles Vignes de 1903 2017
Score: 97
There’s a very impressive sense of balance here, thanks in part to the more than 100-year-old vines. Dark fruit, earthy notes, chocolate and spice all in abundance. The opulent tannins are captivating. Drink or hold.
Château Thivin Côte de Brouilly Cuvée Zaccharie
Score: 96
Stunning, concentrated black cherries and plenty of the characteristic acidity of the vintage, both seamlessly interwoven with the gentle tannins and the minerality through the very long, super-clean finish. Exemplary use of oak. Almost endless finish. Drink or hold.
Jean-Marc Burgaud Morgon Grands Cras 2017
Score: 96
This is a powerhouse with such precision and detail. So energetic. Very impressive aromas with spicy, fragrant red and purple fruit, leading to a plush and juicy palate with rich and velvety, fruit- soaked tannins. Exceptional wine. Drink or hold.
Jean-Claude Debeaune Morgon Montchoisy 2017
Score: 95
Very deep, dark-fruited Morgon with dark cherries and plums, wrapped in dark chocolate and carried on fluid, velvety, long tannins. Great depth here. A level of structure you would normally associate with more celebrated appellations such as Cornas or Corton. Drink or hold.
Antoine Sunier Morgon 2017
Score: 95
An exceptional wine that has a very plush array of ripe fruit, in the strawberry and cherry zone, with hints of cocoa and a long and succulent palate. Super fine, ripe tannins. Exhilarating finish. Excellent. Drink or hold.
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Why Bordeaux 2016 Is a Vintage to Venerate
Some winemakers in Bordeaux are calling the 2016 vintage part of “the second coming of Bordeaux”. Combined with the superb 2015 vintage, they could be right.
I tasted more than 1,300 wines from 2016 a few weeks ago in Bordeaux, and spoke to at least 40 winemakers in the region. The freshness and structure of the reds and whites produced that year, as well as their purity and transparency, was impressive. They have a classicism that reminds me of the great wines of the 1980s, but much more precision and clarity.
Mathieu Chardonnier, head of the négociant house of CVBG, which also owns a number of top Bordeaux wine estates and sells millions of cases of Bordeaux each year, is one expert who talks of the so-called second coming.
“It takes confidence to do less to get more in your winemaking and to believe in what you do,” he says. “But that’s what many of us are doing in Bordeaux now. We made great wines in Bordeaux in 2015 and 2016. They’re some of the best ever.”
I rated eight wines with perfect scores in 2016 and 14 in 2015. I think 2015 made more truly great wines than 2016, but the latter is very close and slightly more homogeneous in quality. This means you can buy just about anything bottled in Bordeaux in the 2016 vintage, from the simplest Bordeaux to the grandest of classified growths or trophy wines from the Right Bank, and be assured you’re getting a top-quality wine.
[caption id="attachment_137100" align="alignnone" width="1684"] Tasting at Château Pavie in Saint-Émilion.[/caption]
We gave 149 wines 95 points or more from 2015, while 2016 had 100 wines at the same level, and 927 wines scored 90 points or more from 2016, compared to 864 from 2015. We reviewed 1,256 wines in the 2015 vintage and 1,342 in 2016.
My 100-point rated wines from the 2016 vintage include Cos d’Estournel, Haut-Brion, Lafite Rothschild, Le Pin, Léoville Las Cases, Mouton Rothschild, Pavie and Pétrus. All these properties produced evocative and emotional wines, which show a beauty and structure that reminds me of some of the best wines of my 38-year career as a wine critic. (Only Le Pin, Pavie and Pétrus garnered 100 points in both 2015 and 2016.)
“The 2016 Pétrus is exactly the same number -- alcohol, pH, tannin -- as 2015; so you can’t tell what a wine is just from the numbers,” says Olivier Berrouet, winemaker at Château Pétrus. “But the 2016 is different. We had more freshness in 2016. It’s a difference in Merlot. It’s another face of Pétrus. I like to compare 2016 to the 1971 and the 2015 to the 1970.”
I’ve been lucky enough to drink a number of bottles of both the 1971 and 1970 Pétrus (albeit a long time ago) and they’re superbly balanced and beautiful bottles. It’s hard to say which is better, with the 1970 showing more richness and the 1971 more energy. Most winemakers use more recent comparisons such as 2010 and 2009. About half of those I spoke to said that 2016 was like 2010 and half like 2009.
[caption id="attachment_137101" align="alignnone" width="1547"] Grapes ready for harvesting.[/caption]
What is clear is that the 2016 bottles have about 1 percent less alcohol than the 2015s and slightly more acidity. This gives the 2016 reds a slightly less ripe and more tannic mouthfeel than the 2015s. It suggests the 2016s will age slightly better than the 2015s, but I don’t think it matters much, as both vintages have a long life ahead.
“The 2016 is a history of blood and sweat,” says Baptiste Guinaudeau, winemaker at Pomerol’s Château Lafleur. “We weren’t sure how it would be at the beginning. We came out of 2015 and the growing season started cold and wet. We had so much trouble in the vineyard and so much work. And from June to September it was so dry and hot. We honestly couldn’t understand how it came together. We didn’t know that 2016 was a great year when we made it, but it is!”
2016 is a top vintage and, I think, more of a Cabernet Sauvignon vintage. The northern Médoc made the best wines, including those in the appellations of Saint-Estèphe, Pauillac and St Julien. However, some superb wines were also made in all the key appellations, regardless of whether they were Left or Right Bank.
When it comes to whether 2016 or 2015 was a better year, I can confirm that the 2016 is one of the best vintages since 2010. I would rate it ahead of 2000 and 2003, as well as every vintage in the 1990s except 1990 itself. The only modern vintages that rate better are 2005, 2009, 2010 and 2015 -- the latter only by a hair.
Others may disagree, including at least half of the 40 or so vintners we spoke to. Some of this may be because the 2016 is the most recent vintage on the market. They want to sell it. But I understand the debate. Similar debates still go on regarding the 1989 and 1990, 1995 and 1996, and 2009 and 2010. Prices don’t seem to be much of a factor as wine merchants in Bordeaux say that 2015 and 2016 wines are about the same price now, even though 2015 was significantly less expensive at the beginning.
To conclude, I want to buy a number of wines in 2016 just like I did in 2015. And I recommend you do the same if you love excellent Bordeaux. These two vintages produced wines that are incomparable to other reds made in the world. And the wonderful balance, intensity and clarity of the wines are so, so Bordeaux today.
Find James Suckling's favourite bottles from Bordeaux 2016 here:
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For a complete list of the nearly 2,500 Bordeaux from 2016 Suckling and his team have tasted, see JamesSuckling.com.
The post Why Bordeaux 2016 Is a Vintage to Venerate appeared first on Prestige Online - Hong Kong.
James Suckling’s Top 10 Bottles from Bordeaux 2016
Château Cos d'Estournel Saint-Estèphe 2016
Score: 100
This is muscular yet so well defined and toned. Full-bodied with deep and dense fruit on the palate, yet powerful and rich at the same time. So much sandalwood and blackberry character. Chewy and rich at the finish. This is a warm and generous wine, but the alcohol is just over 13 percent, not that high. Love the finish. Extravagant. Magical. Try from 2025.
Château Lafite Rothschild Pauillac 2016
Score: 100
Incredible aromas of crushed berries, sweet tobacco and wet earth. So perfumed and gorgeous. Hot stones and cement, too. Full-bodied, dense and powerful with lots of intense tannins and a never-ending finish. Juicy and flavourful. A muscular Lafite, not seen for a long time. Class! Try after 2025.
Château Haut-Brion Pessac-Léognan 2016
Score: 100
Stunning black fruit with plenty of forest berries in there, the whole picture cool and very delicate, also on the concentrated and highly structured palate. The tannins are very fine-grained, but decisively austere and, together with the vibrant acidity, they propel the finish out towards infinity and leave a breathtaking final impression. A blend of 56 percent Merlot, 37.5 percent Cabernet Sauvignon and 6.5 percent Cabernet Franc. Very long ageing potential, but you could try it in 2023.
Château Le Pin Pomerol 2016
Score: 100
I’m spellbound by the aromas of crushed blackberries, liquorice, black tea and violets. It’s full-bodied yet so intense and linear. Powerful tannins with superb polish and focus give an amazing texture. Complex and fascinating flavours of hazelnuts and dark fruit. The balance and strength is uncanny. Perfect wine. Very direct and superb. Try after 2025.
Château Léoville-Las Cases Saint-Julien 2016
Score: 100
Very complex and alluringly spicy aromas that bubble in and out of the nose, together with fresh tobacco, raspberries and iodine, moving into blackcurrants, blackberries and a gently gravelly, stony edge. The palate has incredible polish that’s a foil for the intense power and concentration of this wine. The texture is flawless, building smoothly with fine- grained and focused tannins that sustain a long, fresh finish. The new 1986, which was a legend. This is probably better. A blend of 75 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 14 percent Merlot and 11 percent Cabernet franc. Try from 2024.
Château Mouton Rothschild Pauillac 2016
Score: 100
Dark ruby-purple colour. Aromas of blackcurrants, black truffle, crushed stone, liquorice and hints of tar. Full-bodied, deep and vertical on the palate, drawing you in and down. The structure is very tannic and powerful, yet the tannins are folded into the wine. One of the most powerful Moutons ever for me. Try after 2027.
Château Pavie Saint-Émilion 2016
Score: 100
Spectacular aromas of crushed berries, such as blueberries and raspberries. Fresh flowers with hints of sandalwood. Exotic. Saturated palate of so much fruit, yet remains agile and energetic. Great length and texture. Fills your mouth. This needs time, but a classic. Twin brother of the perfect 2015.
Château Pétrus Pomerol 2016
Score: 100
This is very fleshy and deep with so much texture and richness. It’s full bodied yet fresh. The tobacco, white truffle, liquorice and dark fruit are so impressive. It’s so exuberant and wild. It just goes on forever. Spellbinding. Very muscular and powerful. Agile and energetic. Please give this time. Needs eight to 10 years. Try from 2029.
Château Ducru-Beaucaillou Saint-Julien 2016
Score: 99
Super-perfumed, attractive violets with a thread of fresh blueberries, cassis, blackberries and dark plums, delivering a very enticing impression. Beautiful ripeness here. The tannins are perfectly ripe and layers meld into each other, carrying deep, graceful and plush, velvety dark fruit long into the vibrant and seductive, chocolate-laced finish. Great potential. Try from 2024.
Château Pichon-Longueville Baron Pauillac 2016
Score: 99
The concentration and largesse of the 2016 Pichon Baron is apparent from the outset with incredibly alluring, ripe and expansive fruit aromas in the blackberry, dark cherry, mulberry and plum zone. Espresso and cedar, as well as a slate-like, stony mineral edge add complexity. The palate has incredible depth, drive and detail. Fine and plush tannins stretch the palate in every direction. So fresh and vivacious, this is the greatest Pichon Baron since 1989 and has a long future. Try from 2024.
The post James Suckling’s Top 10 Bottles from Bordeaux 2016 appeared first on Prestige Online - Hong Kong.
Why Massimo Ferragamo’s Wine Has Critics Raving
No, not shoes. The grandson of Salvatore Ferragamo has produced a 2010 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva that's racking up praises.
The post Why Massimo Ferragamo’s Wine Has Critics Raving appeared first on The Peak Magazine.
Why Massimo Ferragamo’s Wine Has Critics Raving

No, not shoes. The grandson of Salvatore Ferragamo has produced a 2010 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva that's racking up praises.
For more stories like this, visit www.thepeakmagazine.com.sg.
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