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What to Wear This Summer: Trends from the Fashion Shows

Bottega Veneta

Street style for spring/summer 2020 was awash with Daniel Lee’s square-toe sandals, either intrecciato woven leather mules or strappy sandals that had influencers and editors risking frostbite. In Lee’s second showing for the Italian leather house, the accessories were once again instant hits, with a supersized intrecciato hobo bag taking centre stage. In terms of ready-to-wear, Lee built on his first Bottega Veneta collection, in which he’d delivered strong looks with sharp lines. This collection saw lighter pieces with softened lines, but the clingy ribbed dresses were there, as were the sportier pieces with interesting twists. Leather was given lighter treatment this time round and could be found in the trenches, anoraks and Bermuda shorts.

 

Chanel

The parade across Rue Cambon’s zinc-lined rooftops hailed Virginie Viard’s new direction for the House of Chanel. Although grounded in the French maison’s heritage, Viard’s tweed rompers, short hems and all manner of leggy playsuits evoked the Nouvelle Vague. Unlike Lagerfeld’s larger-than-life Chanel girl, Viard’s woman was liberated in contemporary T-shirts, jeans and Breton stripes, which joined tiered skirts and layers of tweed on the runway. Of course, this was the occasion when a comedienne jumped into a line of marching models – security didn’t like it and Gigi Hadid kindly helped direct her off the runway – but audiences came away with a show to remember.

 

Dior

Sustainability is big in fashion, but is it sustainable? At Dior, the answer is a supersized yes. This season Maria Grazia Chiuri worked with Paris-based environmental design collective Coloco to create the arboreal set that became Dior’s catwalk, comprising trees that would later be planted around Paris. If that weren’t enough, Chiuri took inspiration from Christian Dior’s sister Catherine, a botanist and acclaimed gardener. The result was an earthy collection of jacquards, silks and lace interwoven with raffia and denim ombre pieces – a more sustainable savoir-faire.

 

Fendi


What does your garden-variety collection look like when interpreted by one of the biggest forces in luxury fashion? If it’s Fendi, think relaxed, languid and psychedelic, and with a leafy floral print made of Lycra and laced with mink the house retained its signature style. Gingham featured heavily, executed on sequin- dipped organza. Terrycloth also made its customary appearance, suggesting that wearability and practicality remain at the forefront of Silvia Fendi’s approach – and for women on the go, there wasn’t a high heel in sight.

 

Giorgio Armani

Delicately muted colours dominated Giorgio Armani’s collection, titled Earth, although only a handful of looks featured the brown of the soil. The rest were in dreamy palettes of soft greige and pale blues and pinks that pointed to the hues of minerals and vegetation. Tropical-leaf prints grounded the collection in its theme, while organza billowed and furled in a sort of wilderness to convey the uncontrollability of nature’s creations.

 

Gucci

For his fifth anniversary at the House go Gucci, Alessandro Michele knew it was time for change. The provocateur, who charged into the fashion scene with his maximalist approach to granny chic, staged his first collection of the new decade in a red-lit room, which then flashed white light against moving walkways as 21 models in straitjackets emerged from behind corrugated metal gates – and that wasn’t the full collection but rather an amuse-bouche. Michele is clearly breaking out from the mould he’d created for himself. His first look was a sheer top with a black skirt – something of a first for the designer whose motto was to use all the colours – and when colour does appear its presence is blocked and graphic. Print is used sparingly, and mostly in the form of the GG logo he’s resurrected from the archives. There were also nods in the pant and skirt suits to the brand’s leaner silhouettes from the ’70s and Tom Ford’s influence in the ’90s. Where there were once layers upon layers of jacquards and tweeds, lightness became the focus. Fabrics are sheerer, slip dresses contained lace inserts and skirts, and sleeves became a playground of how transparent fabrics could go. Sexiness appeared by way of a strong S&M influence, with riding crops referencing not only that but also the house’s equestrian heritage.

 

Hermès

Representative of the artisanal trend that overtook the Paris runways, the Hermès collection was replete with tunics, gladiator sandals, and aprons. Inspired partly by the aprons worn in the Hermès atelier, Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski gave the humble piece a graphic makeover that was carried through in coats, dresses and shell tops. Having successfully delivered on heritage, she also merged modernity seamlessly into her collection through a series of coats and suits that demonstrate the finesse of craftsmanship that only a luxury house like Hermès can accomplish.

 

Shiatzy Chen

Wang Cheng Tsai-Hsia turned her hand to the underwear-as-outerwear trend, though Shiatzy Chen wouldn’t be so successful without its Chinese twist. Referencing fresh bamboo sprouts, the palette this season showed white, green, tan, red and black with breezy blouson cuts, sheer fabrics and bare legs.

The post What to Wear This Summer: Trends from the Fashion Shows appeared first on Prestige Online - Hong Kong.

The Best Looks from London Fashion Week Autumn 2020

Hot off the heels of New York Fashion Week comes the shows on the other side of the pond. We look to the designers showing at the British fashion capital for the looks of the new season. For those who missed the shows, catch all the action in our recap of the best looks we spotted from the runways of London Fashion Week Autumn 2020.

 

Burberry

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Burberry Creative Director Riccardo Tisci explores British fashion following the recent Brexit, focusing on the classic English theme with its iconic checks and plaid on suiting silhouettes and sporty separates. The house stayed true to its heritage as its neutral palette of beige, tan and black dominated the catwalk. Unlike its previous shows, Burberry’s line up of models were the most high-profile A-listers with the likes of Kendall Jenner, Bella and Gigi Hadid, Joan Smalls and Irina Shayk.

 

Victoria Beckham

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Described as “gentle rebellion” by the designer herself, Victoria Beckham was all about English tweed, chunky overcoats, and huge sleeves this season. “I was thinking about the tension between refinement and rebellion. I was inspired by the different ideas of women – different characters, different moments and different attitudes – with no restrictions. It’s about breaking the rules within the context of the brand codes and losing my inhibitions,” the former Spice Girl describes. That translated to cutout knits, reinvented suiting cuts, thigh high leather boots, and shorter skirts – a changeup from her iconic elegant midi length dresses from previous collections.

 

Christopher Kane

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Autumn/Winter 2020 was all about the fall of Adam and Eve – the triangle – the biblical symbol for the eye of God on the runway of Christopher Kane’s show. “The triangle is the most powerful, strongest shape in nature,” the designer explains. The triangulation is seen recurring throughout the collection in both bold and minute ways, from cutouts to motifs to slits and splices.

 

JW Anderson

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Size matters. At least that’s the case at JW Anderson’s Autumn 2020 show. “Mixed-media art, taken from the familiar to the beautifully strange, blowing them up to extreme volumes” Anderson describes. A lot is oversized in the collection – silhouettes, sleeves, collars, lapels, to even the Cuban chain detailing on accessories. The trench coats, tea-length skirts, bulbous dresses and suit jackets are all blown out of proportion. Pair the exaggerated size with tiers of metallic tinsel and you’ve got JW Anderson’s take on nouveau chic.

 

Erdem

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The king of experimental textiles, Erdem Moralioglu presents a collection of varying textures juxtaposed against each other in individual looks for Autumn 2020. Inspired by photographer and designer Cecil Beaton’s portraits of the 1920s high society, Erdem went down the route of exaggerated and fantastical. Sheer metallics, brocades, flowing silks, floral embroideries and feather headpieces ruled the catwalk this season.

The post The Best Looks from London Fashion Week Autumn 2020 appeared first on Prestige Online - Hong Kong.

Livestream: Front Row at Burberry’s Autumn/Winter 2020 Show

Burberry Fall Winter 2020

Following the close of New York Fashion Week, we find ourselves enthralled by the shows across the pond. Ricardo Tisci's Autumn Winter collection is again highly anticipated he has dramatically transformed Burberry with his bold aesthetic since his appointment in 2018. Be the first to catch the livestream show here to see all the looks straight from the runway.  

 

February 18, 2020 | 1AM (HKT)

 

The post Livestream: Front Row at Burberry’s Autumn/Winter 2020 Show appeared first on Prestige Online - Hong Kong.

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