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Startup Life: Frederieke van Doorn of Frey on Championing Women’s Tailoring

Frey women's tailoring in Hong Kong

Frustrated with the lack of tailoring options for women, Frederieke van Doorn decided to throw caution to the wind and start her own brand – Frey was born from a desire to dress women to fit their bodies, not the other way around.

It was certainly a bold venture, tailoring was – and still is – a male-dominated sector in the fashion industry, but van Doorn hopes to change women’s mindset towards tailoring and offer better fit and better quality for all. Nothing boosts confidence more than a perfectly fitted jacket or suit, and at FREY the options are endless.

A visit to its flagship store on Ice House Street starts with a digital body scan (this could also be done at home) to get your precise measurements before you take your pick of the many looks available. There’s a wide range to choose from, power suits for a boardroom meeting, to flowing skirts for a long saunter by the beach. Every clothing option is fully customisable, you can pick and choose from a range of patterns and fabrics available in the store. Each order takes about three weeks to create, and fittings are arranged back at the store to refine each and every outfit.

Frederieke van Doorn of Frey
Frederieke van Doorn

Name: Frederieke van Doorn
Profession: Tailor / Womenswear Designer
Industry: Fashion Design
Company Size: 7
Startup since: September 2020

Read on below to see how Frederieke van Doorn started Frey to bring our attention to women’s tailoring.

Frey store
Frey’s flagship on Ice House Street

When was Frey started and how much has the team grown?

I started Frey in September 2020, the first thing I did was hire a designer, Yulia Tlili. The store opened at the beginning of September 2021, we are now seven, including myself.

What is your own background in fashion design and what led you to tailoring?

I studied Fashion in Amsterdam and I worked in men’s tailoring for the last 20 years. I lived and worked for 12 years in China where I produced high-quality men’s tailored suits.

When did you have the idea to start your own women’s tailoring brand?

I was always a bit annoyed by the fact that there isn’t a good woman’s tailoring brand available for women. Jackets and suits are a side business for a lot of brands, so the options are quite limited, and the quality level is mostly poor. Men have much more options in terms of tailored designs and better quality. Since we couldn’t travel anymore in 2020 the idea of starting a tailoring brand grew on me and I decided to go for it.

Frey FW 21

What are the challenges in your industry?

To expose and grow the brand socially, tell my story, tell what I do. The world is so fast now, you only get a few seconds of attention, you need to tell the whole story in just a few seconds when there is so much more to tell and show.

Describe a normal day for you.

I usually get up very early to do my workout, then I can be back in time to bring the kids to school. I am in the office around 9 o’clock where we do all kinds of things. We are a very small company, so I am involved in all aspects, design, marketing, sales, merchandising, finance, so my days are very different from one to another.

Tailoring has been the domain for gents for so long, how do you make it less intimidating for women to get into it?

I think it is a bit new for us women, which is strange since we do wear jackets and suits since the 40s and 50s, and it is required for many jobs nowadays. We offer pieces which fit very comfortably, in the best fabrics and in classic styles. In Hong Kong, men have their own preferred tailors, they go there for fittings to find the perfect fit, unfortunately, these tailors are not attractive for women. We would like to become known for the perfect female tailoring place with a modern flair and exquisite fit.

Frey FW 21

Is it quite different when designing for a female body versus a male body? Do women look for different fits and details?

Designing for the female body is more complicated but this is not only for my brand, but this is also for all the brands. Apart from the body, we have more options and choices out there, as well as more fashion orientated desires.

Your collection is also designed in a much wider range of sizes beyond what’s standard in the industry. Was this important for you?

The industry is slowly changing but I still cannot understand why you would have a sample size EU 32, and you grade that up till EU 42, that just doesn’t work. Especially in Hong Kong, the stores here hold such a small range of sizes, and so many women say I cannot shop in Hong Kong, they don’t have my size.

Frey’s personalised tailoring service is done digitally. How accurate is the technology and is this the future of tailoring?

I have been working with this app for a long time now. After doing some tests measuring by hand versus the app, sometimes the app was more accurate.

inside the Frey store

Can you tell us about the sustainable measures at Frey and why that is important for the brand?

It has become clear to all of us that whatever we do, we need to think about sustainability. This doesn’t happen overnight, but all decisions should be made with this in mind. We need to shift away from fast fashion and make better choices. That is why I choose natural materials because they are just better for life and last longer.

Using dead stock is sustainable but does it compromise design or style?

Not at all, we see this challenge as an inspiration. The design process starts with fabrics, it often dictates the shape, silhouettes, and design details, which together makes the collection.

What is your own personal favourite look for every day?

I really like to wear a good jacket that is tailored or a nice, oversized piece.

Frey FW 21

Are tailoring and suits for business only or do you dress women for different occasions?

Not only for business, but we also think of the process from day to night. Why not have dinner after a workday in a powerful suit, kick off the heels and put some sneakers under it?

Do you think owning and wearing a well-fitted suit can be empowering for women?

Absolutely, nothing is more annoying than wearing clothes you are not comfortable in. If you feel good in your clothes you feel freer and more empowered.

What advice would you give to other people who want to start their own business, especially girls and fresh graduates?

Be creative in finding solutions, never give up. Never stop learning, remember everyone’s path is different. Invest in good relationships with manufacturers and suppliers.

The post Startup Life: Frederieke van Doorn of Frey on Championing Women’s Tailoring appeared first on Prestige Online - Hong Kong.

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The Armoury SS21 is an ode to the beauty and grandeur of Firenze

The Armoury

The acclaimed menswear brand's new lookbook recalls all that is magical about the 'Athens of the Middle Ages' -- its art, cuisine, and knack for fostering lasting friendships. 

Since the earliest days of the pandemic, 'nostalgia for travel' has been a constant inspiration for brands operating in every corner of fashion's ecosystem. But I'll be damned if I've seen more than a handful of players hit the nail on the head so poignantly as The Armoury. Round about now, Hong Kong's preeminent ambassadors of "international classic" style -- now in the habit of co-designing many of the labels they stock -- would be departing Florence following the conclusion of Pitti Uomo -- the bi-annual menswear tradeshow that had its most recent edition cancelled to "contain the spread of COVID-19 in [Italy]". That resultant gap in the traditional fashion calendar has given the brand sufficient time and space to reckon with Florence's significance -- as an epicentre of work and wonderment.

The Armoury
(Image source: Ken Wu for The Armoury)

"Looking back, [Florence] holds many important memories for us," says Mark Cho, co-founder of The Armoury. "More than just the setting for Pitti Uomo (where we see our suppliers and sample new product), to me it always feels like the place for an especially congenial family reunion with our peers in the industry. A yearning for physical reconnection led us to incorporate as much reference material as we could for SS21: of our friends and the many locales in Florence that make it so special."

Each look featured in the campaign has been shot in-studio (by erstwhile collaborator Ken Wu), then intercut with footage of previous editions of Pitti Uomo; and even some original illustrations from Vogue Japan blogger Misako Otani. More travel editorial than straight-up catalogue, the campaign pulls together a selection of tailored and casual looks, all insouciant enough to be worn in the heart of the Florentine (or indeed southeast Asian) summer.

Absent occasional (some might say unavoidable) hat-tips to cultural landmarks the likes of the Palazzo Vecchio, SS21's thematic touchstones are as varied as the clothes they inspire. Burnished wingtip oxfords evoke the colour of an especially vermouth-heavy Negroni (reputedly invented here in the early 20th century); while trousers in crisp mohairs or high-twist wool suggest the cool, blue tint of cobblestone streets around Atelier Liverano. Colours coax the eye rather than transfixing: the optimal choice for a collection with so much in the way of sportswear. Scottish-made knitwear; cropped blousons; the ultimate pair of chinos: not unlike the gelato that inspired them, these are simple pleasures. All are worth revisiting.

The Armoury
(Image source: Ken Wu for The Armoury)

To view the complete SS21 lookbook, visit The Armoury online.

The post The Armoury SS21 is an ode to the beauty and grandeur of Firenze appeared first on Prestige Online - Hong Kong.

The Peak and Vacheron Constantin present: A master and a disciple in tailoring on the transmission of tradition

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The post The Peak and Vacheron Constantin present: A master and a disciple in tailoring on the transmission of tradition appeared first on The Peak Magazine.

The Peak and Vacheron Constantin present: A master and a disciple in tailoring on the transmission of tradition

Vacheron Constantin Dylan Chong Thomas Wong Les Collectionneurs

In a special feature for Vacheron Constantin's Les Collectionneurs vintage timepiece collection, master tailor Thomas Wong of The Prestigious and Dylan Chong of Dylan & Son share their love for handcraft in watches and tailoring.

For more stories like this, visit www.thepeakmagazine.com.sg.

The Peak and Vacheron Constantin present: A master and a disciple in tailoring on the transmission of tradition

Vacheron Constantin Dylan Chong Thomas Wong Les Collectionneurs

In a special feature for Vacheron Constantin's Les Collectionneurs vintage timepiece collection, master tailor Thomas Wong of The Prestigious and Dylan Chong of Dylan & Son share their love for handcraft in watches and tailoring.

For more stories like this, visit www.thepeakmagazine.com.sg.

The Peak and Vacheron Constantin present: A master and a disciple in tailoring on the transmission of tradition

Vacheron Constantin Dylan Chong Thomas Wong Les Collectionneurs

In a special feature for Vacheron Constantin's Les Collectionneurs vintage timepiece collection, master tailor Thomas Wong of The Prestigious and Dylan Chong of Dylan & Son share their love for handcraft in watches and tailoring.

For more stories like this, visit www.thepeakmagazine.com.sg.

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The post Scions of Style: Last & Lapel founder Alvin Gan went from real estate to tailoring appeared first on The Peak Magazine.

Scions of Style: Last & Lapel founder Alvin Gan went from real estate to tailoring

Alvin Gan founder of Last and Lapel.

This classic menswear aficionado might have left the corporate world behind, but he kept his love for its formal dress codes.

For more stories like this, visit www.thepeakmagazine.com.sg.

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The post Old school meets new school at Joe’s Tailoring appeared first on The Peak Magazine.

Old school meets new school at Joe’s Tailoring

Joe’s Tailoring

This stalwart of Singaporean tailoring runs a dynamic bespoke business catering to both the old and the young.

For more stories like this, visit www.thepeakmagazine.com.sg.

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The post The Prefecture founder Mr Q wants to change the way men in Singapore dress appeared first on The Peak Magazine.

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