Celebrity Life
Veronica Chou on Being a Fashion Entrepreneur and the Sustainable Future of the Industry
Fashion heiress and businesswoman Veronica Chou has long been immersed in the world of clothing. When she was a teenager, her grandfatherâs company was Hong Kongâs largest manufacturer of knitwear and denim, and by the time she reached adulthood the curious young woman would visit his factories â and subsequently those of her father, Silas Chou â when sheâd ask countless questions: âWhyâs this so dusty?â âWhatâs this smell?â and âWhereâs this coloured water going?â
Her fascination with the industry led Chou first to an internship and eventually to a front-row seat fashion shows â by that time she was living in New York and helping her father with brands such as Tommy Hilfiger, which heâd acquired with business partner Lawrence Stroll (now owner of the Aston Martin car company and Formula 1 team) in 1989. In 2008, while still in her early twenties, she founded her own company, Iconix, bringing a raft of western fashion labels into second- and third-tier cities in mainland China to meet the demand from an increasingly affluent middle class. Most recently, has Chou launched her own sustainable fashion brand, Everybody and Everyone.
Travelling constantly within China while working with Iconix, Chou couldnât help noticing the air pollution. âThe moment I walked out of the plane, I remember seeing these particles in the air and thinking to myself, âWhat am I walking into?ââ she says. âThis was before the 2008 Beijing Olympics, so the air was really terrible.â Even now, she thinks itâs still a major issue.
âI came back to Hong Kong last September, and because China was still in lockdown due to coronavirus and wasnât really open yet, the air was much better here. Now, itâs been five months since Iâve been back to Hong Kong and you can already see that the air is much worse. It was really during that time in China when I was experiencing the air pollution that I started asking all these questions about the environment, just as I did when interning at my grandfatherâs factories ignited my curiosity in sustainability.
âAnd on another more personal note,â she adds, âgrowing up in the fashion industry at a time when models were often one size only, I was always presented with one type of image â the sort of âidealâ woman.â At the time sheâd left Hong Kong to study in America, Chou says she already had body-image issues and was struggling with eating. âI tried so many weird and crazy diets, but from there I got into what healthy eating really is, which includes a lot of organic foods. And from organic foods I got into what sustainability is in a general sense, and I began to delve into what sustainability is in fashion.
âIâve been involved with sustainability for seven or eight years now â way before it became an area of focus within this industry, and Iâm quite lucky because my brothers invest in technology. A couple of years back, I told them how I wanted to do more and they pointed me down the road of material science, which changed the way I looked at fashion.â
Chou and her brothers have invested in a company called Modern Metal, which grows leather in a lab. âThere are a lot of these material-science technologies out there,â she says, pointing to a new leather bag from the Karl Lagerfeld label that doesnât involve the killing of an animal. âThe leggings Iâm wearing right now, for example, are made from fermented sugar from Africa,â says Chou, whose eyes light up when she starts talking about the range of fabrics used by Everybody and Everyone, âand there are others that are made from eucalyptus fibre.â Currently her brand is available only in the US, as Covid-19 has restricted international shipments. âMy clothes are mainly made in China, with some in Portugal and a small number in the US,â she says, âbut Iâm trying to move as much production as possible to the US, because itâs my main market. We launched in 2019, so my brand is still pretty new and the US market is big enough for me to explore at the moment.â
Chou is especially proud of the fact that her brand is size-inclusive as well as sustainable, offering a wide range of fits for just about everyone. âA lot of our clothes also have a multifunctionality to them. For example, our best-seller is a pair of trousers that adjust at the waist, so you can either cinch them for a more streamlined look or let the, out for something more casual and comfortable. We also have another pair thatâs adjustable at the hem, so you can have three different trouser lengths for when you wear high heels or flats.â
Her design ethos for a single item of clothing to have multiple uses is reflected in her brandâs puffer jacket, which is made from 330 recycled plastic bottles and whose lower half can be unzipped so it can be worn shorter. âItâs a really smart design,â says Chou, âbecause you can wear it in the autumn as well as the winter, when itâs snowing in New York. And then you also have our turtleneck, which of course is made from sustainably sourced cashmere and wool. That can be transformed by pulling the neck part off, so when youâre hot you can take it off or layer it over a shirt to style it completely differently.â
Chouâs passion for sustainability didnât initially meet with enthusiasm. âFour or five years ago,â she says, âIâd talk to some people about sustainability, and theyâd literally turn around and run away from me. People in our industry â especially big-name designers and other famous brands â didnât care about sustainability, but now everyone cares and everyoneâs trying to make a change. Even a couple years ago, people were like, âWhat are you talking about? This is how weâve been doing things for a long time.â Theyâd tell me how it would be more expensive â and some people simply just ignored me. So, I thought, âOK, if you guys arenât going to change then Iâm going to make my own brand.ââ
The thought and research thatâs gone into the production process is evident. âItâs not just about the fabrics and materials we use but we also try to consider where the raw materials come from, to consider the source,â says Chou. âOne of my own favourite products is the silk shirt, because the silk is grown in China by regenerative agricultural methods, meaning that instead of growing one type of crop year-round, various types of crops are grown throughout the year in order to protect and facilitate soil health.â
Above all, Chou expresses her desire for the fashion industry to collaborate more and find solutions collectively. âFor example, if I as a new brand went to look for zippers and asked if the zipper company had more choices of sustainable zippers, they might not have them. But if 10 brands collectively asked for them, then theyâd feel more obliged to make them,â she says. âCollaborative power is necessary for change in order for our industry to be less wasteful.
âA large element of the waste also comes from creating a lot of clothes that consumers donât necessarily need or buy. One of the companies Iâm an advisor to is called Perfectly, and what it does is to invite consumers to take a picture of themselves. That avatar is then used to get more accurate measurements, which reduces the number of returns when a customer orders a garment that doesnât end up being the right fit.â
As for her personal style, Chou highly values practicality, which is also reflected in her brandâs clothing. âOne thing my brand has is pockets in a lot of things,â she says. âMy denim, for example, pretty much has the biggest pockets on the market and basically anything we make â from pants to dresses or athletic wear â contains pockets.â In terms of style, however, she favours clothing with a hint of cool, but not too over-the-top â something polished and elevated.
âOur athletic wear uses a breakthrough technology that allows the nylon to degrade in three years instead of the usual hundred or so years that normal nylon takes to degrade,â says Chou. Now wholly committed to sustainability, this fashion- industry eco-warrior says sheâs just invested in the âworldâs first circular sneakers â when youâre done with the original pair, you can send them back and theyâre broken it down for recycling it into new ones. Iâve also invested in non-fashion-related clean technology, like a carbon-capture process that breaks down plastic. âMy family does a lot of investment for me,â says Chou, âbut if it doesnât push the sustainability agenda forward then I choose not to invest.â
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In Real Life: Veronica Chou of Eco and Inclusive Fashion Label Everybody & Everyone
Fifty metres underground â this is the depth that local winemakers chose when they decided to store 10,000 wine bottles in the Aven d'Orgnac caves, an underground tourist attraction located at the southern end of the limestone plateau of the Gorges de l'Ardèche.
The experiment began in March 2018, when a new storage facility was specially created in a disused access tunnel to allow wine to mature in what amounts to a highly stable and peaceful environment.
A living product that ages best in undisturbed darkness, the wine will have benefited from ideal conditions: A constant temperature of around 12°C and an all-year-long rate of humidity of over 95%.
On December 12, 1,000 bottles of CĂ´tes du Vivarais "Grand Aven 2017" from this treasure trove will be passed from hand to hand by a chain of human volunteers who will bring them back to the surface after two years underground. Thereafter, they will go under the hammer with a range of other local vintages in an auction with modest reserve prices.
Lots on offer will include 150 magnums of Terra Helvorum 2017 starting at 30 euros, 350 bottles of 2015 Terra Helvorum for as little as 15 euros and 350 bottles of Grand Aven 2016 from just 10 euros.
On land and sea
These days, experiments to store wine deep underground are very much in vogue in France. On June 3 of this year, 500 bottles were placed in racks at a depth of 103 metres in caves in Padirac under the watchful eye of Serge Dubs, the Best Sommelier of the World in 1989.
The first of these to return to the surface will be brought up for an initial tasting in the spring of 2021. And let's not forget that this experiment is focused on a very particular wine: A Clos Triguedina Cahors, christened CuvĂŠe Probus, which has been produced to honour the 130-year anniversary of the Padirac Chasm.
Surprisingly enough, this new approach to maturing wine was initially inspired by a find at sea. In 2010, divers in the Baltic discovered a wreck containing what turned out to be a cargo of champagne, which was probably on its way to 1840s Russia.
The wave of experimentation that is now ongoing began when the bubbly, which was made by such houses as Veuve Clicquot, Heidsieck and the now defunct Juglar, was discovered to still be delicious after some 170 years under water.
In Saint-Jean-de-Luz in the French Basque country, winemaker Emmanuel Poirmeur has registered a patent for a process that involves vinifying wine in special vats at a depth of 15 metres under water. For its part, Leclerc-Briant set a record when it vinified one of its champagnes at a depth of 60 meters under the Atlantic in 2012, not surprisingly the vintage was christened "Abyss."
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Why businesswoman Veronica Chou launched Everybody & Everyone, the new eco-friendly brand
LUXUO has previously reported that sustainability in fashion might be a fallacy and business woman Veronica Chou, daughter of the textile tycoon Silas Chou might have just proven that her brand might actually be truly eco-friendly
The post Why businesswoman Veronica Chou launched Everybody & Everyone, the new eco-friendly brand appeared first on LUXUO.