Celebrity Life
5 Best New Brunches to Try in Hong Kong This Winter
Hong Kong is globally known for its cosmopolitan culinary scene and if there is one meal that best encapsulates this growing diversity, it's definitely the holy brunch. A weekly must for the city's foodies, there's a feast for everyone: From traditional eggs and waffles to dim sum, smoked meat, sushi and gourmet menus, every month there are countless new options. We did the hard work for you and selected the best new brunches to try in Hong Kong this winter.
Smoke and Barrel
Price: HK$388; additional HK$188 for the optional 2-hour free-flow drinks package
Smoke and Barrel, Kong Kong's first authentic American barbecue restaurant and smokehouse that recently opened to rave reviews, has just launched a weekend pit house brunch that elevates the soul flavours of the US south. The earthy feast begins with shared appetisers like Baked Beans with pulled pork and bacon and Crab Salad with S&B sauce, avocado, and lime. For main course, guest can choose one dish among a mouthwatering selection of 12-Hour Brisket Beni, Sweet Buttermilk Pancakes with caramel popcorn, banana and granola, and more reimagined classics.
Smoke and Barrel, 1/F-2/F, Wyndham Mansion, 32 Wyndham St, Central; +852 2866 2120
SOMM
Price: HK$698 with a 90-minute free-flow of pre-selected sparkling wine and seasonal wine based cocktails; additional HK$100 for a free-flow package of champagne, sake, white & red wine curated by the sommeliers.
Among the new brunches to try in Hong Kong this winter, there is definitely one that was specifically created for wine lovers: The SOMMkind of Brunch, a new weekend banquet featuring free-flow drinks, sharing platters, choice of main course and desserts at SOMM, the restaurant & bar by Sommeliers at The Landmark Mandarin Oriental. Some of the highlights include the Home-smoked Tasmanian salmon, the Double Chocolate Brioche Feuilleté created by Pastry Chef Valentin Mille and the decadent and picture-perfect Cheese and Cage-Free Egg Omelette Katsu Sando with Takoyaki Sauce, Nori and Katsubushi.
SOMM, The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, 15, 7/F Queen's Road; +852 2132 0033
ChaChaWan
Price: À la carte food and drinks
After seven years of offering authentic Isaan food in the heart of Sheung Wan, Chachawan, helmed by power couple Chang and Narisara Somboon, is back with a fresh new look and menu. For brunch, the established eatery offers the same sharing-style, extensive à la carte menu of lunch dinner. Some of the new must-try Northeastern Thai dishes include Po Nim Pad Prik (deep-fried soft-shell crab in spicy chilli and garlic), Suea Rong Hai, (grilled and sliced wagyu beef served with chilli dipping sauce) and a famous Isaan delicacy of fermented sausage, Sai Krok Isan.
Chachawan, 206 Hollywood Rd, Sheung Wan; + 852 2549 0020
TMK
Price: . HK$298; additional HK$150 for 90-minute free-flow and one Moto cocktail
TMK's signature punky brunch is finally back. The temakeria, known for its creative reinterpretation of classic dishes like temaki, sushi rolls and other Japanese snacks, and its rowdy soundtracks, offers a sharing-style brunch full of punchy flavours and surprising pairings. Highlights include the TMK Cabbage Salad with Yuzu mayo, curry tenkatsu and sesame carrots and the Tuna Hotdog with tempura fried Kalifornia roll and spicy tuna. This December, TMK will also serve Moto, or origin, a new decadent cocktail with vodka, matcha, vanilla syrup and double cream.
TMK, Hollywood Centre, 77-91 Queens’s Road West, Sheung Wan; +852 2662 2269
Fiamma
Price: À la carte food and drinks
If you're looking to make a day out of brunch and pair it with a hike or a relaxed walk with a stunning view, definitely head to Fiamma at The Peak Galleria, the new venture by Michelin-starred Italian Chef Enrico Bartolini. Serving refined but comforting homey dishes, the À la cart breakfast menu features Buongiorno!, which includes Italian sausages, eggs and smoked pancetta, Omelette al Tartufo, a truffle omelette with Asiago cheese and the Hiker's Moring Treat, a gourmet breakfast with superfoods like quinoa and avocado.
Fiamma, G/F, Peak Galleria, 118 Peak Road, The Peak; +852 2657 0800
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The Peninsula Boutique’s Festive Treats Are All You Need to Get Into the Christmas Spirit
Finally, the much-awaited festive season is upon us. This time of the year - and in 2020 perhaps even more so – most of us look for comfort and cheerfulness. The Peninsula Boutique is here to deliver just that, with, of course, a signature touch of elegance.
The icon of the 2020 festive season is Robin, who travels around the globe to bring back tales of kindness and festive compassion and is at the centre of “Stories from the Tree”, a dreamy fairy tale created exclusively for the Peninsula Hotels. Along with the whimsical Robin motif, which adorns gift boxes and keepsakes, other classic characters, including the Nutcracker and the Gingerbread Man, are featured in the decorations and trees.
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Festive Chocolates (8 pieces) HK$ 390 -
Chocolate Delight Gift Box (36 pieces) HK$880 -
Chocolate Panettone HK$ 290 -
Noble Fir Christmas Hamper HK$5,288
The limited-edition “Stories from the Tree” collection includes seven different hampers options, each one carefully created to bring out the merry spirit of this season through the impeccable elegance and attention to details that makes The Peninsula Boutique a go-to destination to celebrate the holiday in style.
Some of the highlights of the collection include the sumptuous selections of chocolates, the Hand-dipped Festive Cookies, Chocolate Panettone and signature Dark Chocolate Carrés with Peninsula Blend tea bags.
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Chestnut Log HK$75 -
Poinsettia HK$75 -
Festive Bear Gift Set HK$450
Famous for its sophisticated and delicious cakes and pastries, this Christmas, The Peninsula Boutique is also offering the Chestnut Wood, Chestnut Log and Poinsettia. The mouth-watering offering is completed by the lifestyle gits, which include the Festive Bauble with Ribbon, Festive Bear and the Festive Bear Gift Set.
This year, upon spending HK$500 or above at the exclusive The Peninsula Pop-Up Boutique at Hysan Place, you’ll also receive a token for the Christmas Tree Capsule Machine, which features an impressive array of shopping privileges, festive gifts and grand prizes.
True to the spirit of the season and the stories that inspired this year’s collection, a portion of funds from the limited-edition fine bone china Festive Bauble will be donated to ImpactHK, a local charity that addresses housing and homelessness issues in Hong Kong.
To find out more, shop and book, head to The Peninsula Boutique official website
The Peninsula Boutique, The Peninsula Arcade, Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon
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Hip Hop Star Drake’s Mod Sélection Champagnes are Now Available in Hong Kong
Mod Sélection Champagnes — bubbly by hip hop star Drake — have landed in Hong Kong, just in time for the festive season.
The tipples are a collaboration between the musician, liquor entrepreneur Brent Hocking and champagne house Maison Pierre Mignon, and are available in 10 different options ranging from Blanc de Blancs to Rosé Non-Vintage.
In a nod to Drake's penchant for luxury, all are presented in elaborately decorated bottles that are hand-embossed by artisans in Champagne.
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Drake.[/caption]
Mod Sélection Champagnes, which launched last year, have bagged several accolades including the Wine Spectator Food & Wine Festival “Best of the Best” award. The Rosé Vintage 2008 was favoured by famed wine critic James Suckling, who rated it 97 points.
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The champagnes can be ordered from this week via Ginsberg+Chan's website or at its brick-and-mortar store at Loke Yew Building in Central. They will also be rolled out at select clubs and restaurants in December.
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Why Bordeaux 2019 Vintages Are a Potentially Difficult Debut
The Bordeaux 2019 en primeur samples are outstanding – but will oenophiles still pay top prices in hard times?
If Bordeaux offered its 2019 vintage right now for 30 to 40 percent less than last year’s offer of en primeur, or futures, would you buy? I’m sure you haven’t thought much about the 2019 vintage in Bordeaux. Buying futures is the last thing on the minds of most wine lovers as the world deals with Covid-19 and the global economic crisis. And most people would rather spend money on wine that’s in the bottle and ready to drink than one that’s ageing in a barrel in a winery. Bordeaux only releases wines on to the market two years after the grapes are harvested. So, the 2019 wines will be available in 2021.
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Winemaker and Oenologist Hubert De Bouard (centre) at his Château Angelus Winery[/caption]
However, I’ve tasted about 1,000 barrel samples of 2019 Bordeaux in my Hong Kong wine bar, James Suckling Wine Central, and I was happily surprised with the quality of the samples – the wines are of outstanding quality. Plus, it looks like prices for the 2019 wines will much less than for those of 2018. Château Pontet-Canet recently announced its high-quality wine at more than one-third less than its 2018. Wine merchants in Bordeaux reported that their email inboxes were filling with orders. One London wine merchant was already offering six bottles of the Pontet-Canet 2019 for US$462, compared with US$816 for the 2018.
The 2019 vintage is not an exceptional year like last year’s 2018 from barrel, when Bordeaux winemakers pulled off a near miracle in their vineyards, picking ripe and opulent grapes in a late, dry and warm harvest following months of problems, including hail and mildew. But so many of the 2019 wines are at the same level of quality as 2018, albeit with less exuberance and plushness in fruit and tannins. The wines seem more typical for Bordeaux – which is a good thing – with a balance of alcohol, cool and blue fruits and fine linear tannins that are refined and driven.
“I prefer 2019 to 2018, as the wines have this depth and density of the 2018 or 2010 (maybe a little less power) with the sensuality and sexiness that you really liked in 2015,” said Thomas Duclos, one of the most popular consulting oenologists in Bordeaux, who makes refined and polished wines. “The great evolution of Bordeaux in recent years seems to me to be this ability to make great wines more accessible in their young years. And I think 2019 is a very good example of this.”
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Hubert De Bouard (left) at Château Angelus in Bordeaux[/caption]
It’s the consensus on the quality of the vintage and the general nature of the wines that’s interesting to me as a longtime wine critic and journalist. It doesn’t happen very often. And the consistency in the quality of the wines from straightforward wine-merchant blends to complex grand chateaux samples highlights this agreement. It means that the wines will be excellent in bottle, regardless of when they sell.
“The wines in 2019 are perfect for greedy wine lovers,” said Hubert de Bouard, whose family owns one of the top growths of the Right Bank, Château Angelus, and who is also a leading consulting enologist in Bordeaux. “The wines are already really tasty – and they’re sexy wines. In 60 percent of the wines I made I prefer the 2019, and in 40 percent I prefer 2018.”
The question now is whether people will buy 2019 Bordeaux as futures or en primeur under the current societal and economic conditions. Most of the winemakers and wine merchants in Bordeaux I spoke to agreed that prices have to come down.
“If we want to have success with en primeur in 2019 then the price must be down,” said de Bouard. “I don’t know [if it should be] 20 percent. I don’t know 15 percent. I don’t know 30 percent. It depends on the brands.”
Some wine merchants who specialise in en primeur in London and Hong Kong apparently sent a written appeal to Bordeaux vintners, urging them to not sell en primeur this year. It’s certainly understandable. But some merchants I spoke to say their customers are interested in buying 2019 futures.
“I have customers now who are asking me for 2019 Bordeaux,” said Eric Desgouttes, general manager of Hong Kong’s Kerry Wines. “Why shouldn’t we offer the wines for sale? Let the market decide.”
It might seem surreal to think about selling 2019 Bordeaux as futures now, against the grim backdrop of Covid-19 and the damaged global economy, particularly in the United States and Europe. But the wines I’ve tasted so far from 2019 seem good to excellent and comparable in quality to 2018, 2016 and 2015 – all excellent vintages.
And if you love wine, you should find it reassuring to remember that wine has always been made, sold and drunk even during terrible moments in history, from wars to pandemics. So, the market will indeed decide whether now is the time to buy 2019 en primeur, when the wines begin selling in a few weeks.
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James Suckling’s Top 8 Wines of the Syrah Variety
Syrah, also known as Shiraz, is one of the few grape varieties called a different name depending on the style of wine it produces.
On the one hand Shiraz, whose name is widely used in South Australia, implies a plush style with a fruit-forward nose that underscores ripeness and opulence on the palate. It suggests a New World style in a traditional sense.
Syrah, on the other hand, tends to suggest the opposite. This original French term indicates a cooler style with spicy fruit, structure and austerity, similar to what you find in Old World Northern Rhône wines.
Amazing Syrah/Shiraz is produced in both Northern Rhône in France and in South Australia, representing the two classic styles of this variety. But the dual personalities of this grape and the differences in these two distinctive styles have somewhat overshadowed the diversity of Syrah worldwide. This versatile grape produces both robust, powerful bottles as well as sleek and elegant ones. It has two contrasting faces, both of which are beautiful.
Aside from the fruity, lush and unctuous Shiraz from warm regions such as Barossa and McLaren Vale, Australia now boasts more peppery, sleek and elegant bottles from cooler areas within Victoria and New South Wales. Terroirs that show great potential – places such as Heathcote, Grampians, Yarra Valley, Hunter Valley and Canberra District – are no longer under the radar. The traditional Australian style has been dissolved.
While some producers have kept their Shiraz labelling, some turned to Syrah to imply a cool, fresh European style. As much as producers enjoy juggling with names, the varietal spelling is far less important than the terroir when it comes to the wine’s features.
New Zealand has a more pronounced presence of Syrah. The Gimblett Gravels terroir within North Island’s Hawke’s Bay is perfect for the spicy, brooding style reminiscent of fine northern Rhône. It also shows its signature purity and focus, rendering the deep peppery fruit and plushness that a fine Hawke’s Bay Syrah offers.
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One of most important wineries that produces Syrah in Chile, Apalta Montes.[/caption]
In Chile, the diversity of Syrah is getting mapped out. Wines from the Central Valley, especially Colchagua and Maipo, are fleshier and more voluptuous. Syrah from Limari shows savouriness and blue fruit. We’re also very pleased with the Syrah from Casablanca and San Antonio Valley, both of which are acclaimed sources for cool- climate expressions of the grape, some reminiscent of an outstanding Côte Rôtie or Hermitage.
“Syrah is indeed very promising here in the valley,” says Meinerd Bloem, chief winemaker of Casas del Bosque in Casablanca. “The subtlety and spicy fruit render an intellectual expression of the grape.”
Back in the Northern Hemisphere, California is now an aspiring contender for great Syrah/Shiraz. Along with Santa Barbara, wineries in Napa and Sonoma are attempting great wines with this spicy variety. And Washington State is producing some rock ’n’ roll Syrahs that some of the New World fruit drive, but with an underlying Old World reserve and green notes. This may be the best place to make Syrah in the entire United States.
Italy also has its regions for Syrah, with Tuscany taking more of the spotlight. Most of the best are made on the Tuscan coast, but areas between Florence and Tuscany – as well as near Cortona – make spicy and complex reds. I’ve even had a number of noteworthy Syrahs from Sicily.
Today, to be Syrah or Shiraz is no longer a question. As producers focus more on expressing their own terroir with this grape, the future of Syrah will be more diverse than ever. Nor do I believe what some sommeliers and wine merchants in America say about Syrah being hard to sell. Open a glorious bottle of Syrah from any of the best regions in the world and enjoy – and marvel at their unique character and greatness. More and more people in the world, especially in Asia, are enjoying excellent Syrah.
James Suckling's Top 8 Sensational Syrahs
Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Landonne 2015
This is a profound wine, offering really striking depth of aromas and flavours with a resonance that really stops you still. Dark stones, ripe dark plums and blackberries, liquorice, sarsaparilla, orange peel and cloves with still more spices floating in the midst.
Score: 100
Tyrell's Shiraz Hunter Valley Old Patch 1867 2014
These are tricky wines to taste. The purity and finesse are at work here, alongside perfectly shaped structure and pitched ripeness; it's deceptively silky and seductive. The nose has the sort of bottomless depth of ripe red and dark plum fruit aromas that you only find in the very best wines. So profound and so alluring, a weapon of mass seduction in a glass.
Score: 100
Colgin Cellars Syrah Napa Valley IX Estate 2015
Smelling this takes my breath away. Cloves, flora, metal shavings, blackberries and smoked meat. Mandarin zest, too. Full body with a perfect balance of ultra-fine tannins and great complexity. Goes on for minutes. Sets a new standard of Syrah for California.
Score: 100
Le Macchiole Bolgheri Scrio 2015
The depth of aroma takes your breath away with bark. tea leaves, peppermint, dried rosemary, thyme, sage, pressed violets, cedar, crème de cassis, blackcurrants and lavender. Full body, layer upon layer of fruit of every colour on the spectrum, pinpoint acidity and a finish that seems endless.
Score: 100
Clonakilla Shiraz Canberra District Shiraz Viognier 2015
This is a rare beauty: a Syrah-based wine that delivers power in an elegant way. The aromatic spectrum is vast, from fine musky florals to white pepper and almost every imaginable spice. Then an incredibly exuberant explosion of boysenberries, raspberries and cherries of every shade takes centre stage as well as red to blue to purple plums. It is full of life.
Score: 99
Trinity Hill Syrah Hawke's Bay Homage 2014
A beautifully articulated edition of this Hawke's Bay Syrah that's loaded with potential. It's a strong vintage that's been cleverly crafted into a thoroughbred wine, packed with spicy and complex interest on the nose: blackberries, cloves, anise, pepper, some dark stony notes and crushed purple flowers. Still frisky and full of youthful, snappy appeal.
Score: 98
Matetic Syrah Valle de San Antonio 2012
This is an unbelievable red with sublime tannin texture and mind- bending depth and finesse. The nose shows granite, slate, blackberry, blueberry, and lavender aromas. Full body yet agile and harmonious. Only 350 cases made. Drink or hold. Made from biodynamic grapes. Spectacular. Could this be the La Turque of Chile?
Score: 97
Montes Syrah Valle de Apalta Folly 2016
Incredibly complex with sweet- tobacco, iron, blackberry, black-olive and dried- strawberry aromas. Full body, ultra-refined tannins and a rich finish. Harvested before the rains. Juicy tannins. Very structured and big style but shows balance. Drink or hold.
Score: 96
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A Mutual Passion for Imbibing Non-ubiquitous Wines Led Two Friends to Think Wine
A mutual passion for imbibing non-ubiquitous wines, working knowledge of quality service and an eye for comfortable bar-room aesthetics led two friends to Think Wine.
Late last year, two French residents of Hong Kong with experience in top local and international restaurants as managers, sommeliers and wine procurers launched a relaxed wine bar in Soho, with an intriguing list of bottles and accompanying nibbles that go beyond charcuterie and fromage, designed to make good pairings.
The story of how they met and had their bar-venture Eureka moment is a curious one, full of coincidences. Romain Loriot, managing director of Think Wine, came to Hong Kong with Alain Ducasse’s restaurant group to help close Spoon restaurant and open Rech Hong Kong; he then became the sommelier and wine buyer for the 12 restaurants of Le Comptoir Group – six were high-end, notably the two-star Écriture. The face of Think Wine is Jean-Benoit Issele, former head sommelier of the one-star Belon in Soho (number 15 on the Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants 2019 list) among other establishments.
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Romain Loriot and Jean-Benoit Issele, enthusiastic owners of Think Wine[/caption]
“It’s funny, we’re both from the South of France – I’m from Montpelier and Jean-Benoit [JB] is from Nîmes,” explains Loriot. “They’re a 20-minute drive from each other but we never knew each other. JB arrived two days after me in October 2016, and a week later we were both in the wine bar LQV, got talking and decided to play the game ‘blind tasting’: I gave him a glass from my bottle, he gave me a glass from his – and they were both the same wine! From 1,200 bottles on the list, we’d both chosen the same one, from Jura, from Ganevat: La Zaune à Dédée [a white, 80 percent Gewurztraminer, 20 percent Sauvignon]. “After that, we decided to meet every Sunday and go to a wine bar for blind tastings. After three or four months, we felt we’d seen all the interesting wine [in Hong Kong bars], so we imagined opening a wine bar together, and finally we really said, ‘Let’s do it!’”
The duo, however, aimed for much more than presenting a list of talking-point wines. “Quality of service,” was another factor, adds Loriot. “There are plenty of wine bars we liked, but they didn’t have the kind of service that JB and I knew in Michelin-star restaurants where we’d worked: a conversation with the waiter about the background of the wines, good recommendations and serving techniques, and comfortable seating – something most wine bars lack. We wanted to have all this, at a good price.”
Think Wine’s 1,800 square feet of floor space is divided into distinct zones: a cellar room with a central counter where up to 12 can gather; a private room with a long table; a bar counter and adjacent tables with barstools; a lounge graced with armchairs and sofas that incorporates Christian Lacroix fabric and wallcoverings; and the balcony – a mix of tables and chairs and deck cushions. “We were blessed to find architect Bruce Ng to work with all our ideas,” says Issele. “He helped us include a lot of personality, including my grandfather’s Michelin-star-chef menu collection, Romain’s family champagne-cap collection and Riya Chandiramani’s mural in the middle of the bar to tell our personal life and stories about wine.”
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Think Wine is divided into zones offering distinctly different vinous vibes, from groups of 12, to private parties for up to 70 people along with one-on-one tastings[/caption]
The bar has held winemaker masterclasses, private tastings and had private parties for up to 70 people in the main area. Weekly masterclasses have included introductions to champagne houses, as well as wines from other regions when visited by the likes of Nicolas Raffy, winemaker from Mas Amiel, in Maury in the Roussillon; Hervé Bizeul from Domaine du Clos des Fées in Roussillon; and from Alsace, Eddy Leiber-Faller – winemaker at Domaine Weinbach. Additional regular wine events are held without visiting representatives, and there was a recent champagne and caviar event.
Wine bars often have a limited selection of snacks but the Think Wine duo know their market and haven’t neglected hot dishes. Warming dishes feature hot tartines, truffle risotto and baked camembert, and “our cheese-platter choices change once a month”, adds Loriot. “All our food service is focused on what matches the wines that people are drinking.”
Unusually for a wine bar, Sunday brunches are served too. “We have oysters and signature dishes – like a mixed platter of cold cuts and cheese” explains Loriot.
“We needed something with eggs, so we put on a Mediterranean quiche – making it vegetarian, as many people we know prefer that. We’ve known chefs at [restaurants like] Belon, Écriture and Caprice for years; they helped and suggested ways of making our signature brunch dish the Dragon Dog, which has lobster and truffle in it.”
Monthly pop-up chef collaborations started recently, first with Nordic restaurant Frantzén’s Kitchen, where JB had worked previously. Guest chefs from popular restaurants present four to six casual dishes; some reflect items they serve, others are concocted especially for Think Wine.
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Think Wine offers 600 vinous varieties, of which 80 percent are French, with the remainder from the likes of Spain, Italy, Australia, Germany, The Lebanon and Morocco[/caption]
This month, Roganic restaurant is offering among its selection a fried-chicken sandwich, which isn’t on its regular menu. “It’s fun,” says Loriot. “JB and I see the chef’s items and then pair them with wines between us.”
Think Wine has been received positively by guests: “Some are surprised by the amount of wine and the diversity we have,” says Loriot. “They like some of the big bottles we get, too, such as the [fortified red] Mas Amiel 1985 that we serve with a pipette – like in a winery. People like the experience, and they often take pictures and videos.”
Of the 600 varieties on offer, 80 percent are French. Thanks to Loriet’s connections in France, half of these come directly from producers. Not wanting to ignore wines from further afield, countries such as Australia, Italy, Germany, Spain, Lebanon and Morocco have also featured so far.
“We had to think, ‘What’s good for a wine bar?’” says Loriot. “Not all work if you’re not having a restaurant meal – they can be too full-bodied – from North America or from Cahors in the South of France; you want a nice steak with these – or too sweet, like a great Yquem for example, which people only enjoy with a dessert in a restaurant. So we had to think about what can be enjoyed on their own and to pair with our food.
“We have some amazing wine from Australia. Before I came to Hong Kong, I didn’t really like Australian wine,” Loriot confesses. “I’d always tasted the big wineries’ offerings, but some small winemakers that make just 2,000 to 5,000 bottles are really special natural wines.”
In homage to the way the Think Wine founders met, the bar holds its regular Blind Tasting Challenge – challenging patrons to guess three out of four qualities about a wine they taste after stipulating a white or red preference – and three “yes or no” questions are allowed. It’s a tough ask, and for the few who succeed the reward is determined by a lucky draw, with prizes ranging from a corkscrew to lunches for two at upscale restaurants. It’s all part of the disarming fun vibe here – as Issele puts it, “We hope to educate guests about wine, and provide them with a nice environment and service for them to relax, enjoy and have a good time.”
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Where Chefs Eat: Devon Hou of Test Kitchen
Whether it’s an extravagant fine dining restaurant or a humble street side hawker stall, we are perpetually on the quest for delectable foods — whatever the occasion. So, for the ultimate insider scoop, who better to personally recommend the best eats around the world than top chefs who’ve seen and tasted it all. We go right to the source as international culinary legends reveal where they eat and what they order when the aprons come off.
Chef Devon Hou began her culinary career at Amber under the wing of Richard Ekkebus, then as a sous chef to Vicky Lau starting up Tate Dining Room, before moving overseas to London's Goring Hotel. Her journey then led her to a unique F&B opportunity unlike any other. Her role as Head Chef at Test Kitchen is beyond collaborations with the well known culinary celebrities. It's also thematic pop-up dinner series of her own and constant exploration with flavours and cooking techniques. We chat up the chef and find out where she eats when she's away from her kitchen and in someone else's dining room.
For an evening of fine dining…
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Prawns warmed in starfruit juice with herbs, Dewakan[/caption]
I had a very memorable dinner in Dewakan in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. The way the chef fuses Malaysian ingredients together impressed me the most, a close second [impressive element] would be the stunning night views.
Dewakan, Level 48, Skyviews Naza Tower, 10 Persiaran KLCC, Platinum Park, Kuala Lumpur; +017 697 8820
For a cheeky cheat meal…
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The Honest Burger, Honest Burgers[/caption]
Honest Burgers reminds me of the time I lived and worked in London. After a busy week of way too many hours, I would always enjoy having a burger with a milkshake to fill up my stomach and lighten up my mood.
Honest Burgers, several locations across the United Kingdom
For a romantic date night…
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The Red prawn hot dog with Josper grilled prawn head is a must-order at Pica Pica[/caption]
It's no secret that I’m a tapas lover. Pica Pica is a tapas bar in Sheung Wan with an open-kitchen. I love the rich variety of food and sherry wine pairing for a date-night in a relaxing and good atmosphere.
Pica Pica, 317 - 321 Des Voeux Road Central, Sheung Wan; +852 2811 9880
For getting friends and family together…
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Fried mantis shrimp with garlic, Dragon King[/caption]
Dragon King is a frequented Chinese dim sum restaurant for family gatherings and dinners for every festivity. At least for my family.
Dragon King, several locations including:
Dragon King Causeway Bay, 12/F, World Trade Centre, 280 Gloucester Road, Causeway Bay; +852 2895 2288
For a healthy detox…
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The Impossible Burger, Green Common[/caption]
Green Common, several locations including:
Green Common Wan Chai, 2/F, QRE Plaza, 202 Queen's Road East, Wan Chai; +852 3586 1968
For happy hour tipples…
Kozy is a Japanese teppanyaki place in Causeway Bay. The thing I like most about it is, both of the Japanese chefs are always there; maintaining the consistency and high quality of the food at a reasonable price. They open until late so this is absolutely my first choice of restaurant for happy-hour.
Kozy Okonomiyaki Teppanyaki, 9/F, Circle Plaza, 499 Hennessy Road, Causeway Bay; +852 2591 1281
The post Where Chefs Eat: Devon Hou of Test Kitchen appeared first on Prestige Online - Hong Kong.
Asia’s Best Female Chef Cho Hee-sook Preserves Traditional Korean Food with Modernity
Known as the Godmother of Korean cuisine, you could say that chef Cho Hee-sook is something of an authority when it comes to Korean gastronomy.
And rightly so. In her endeavour to honour and preserve the culinary traditions, she has shared her depth of knowledge and research, while mentoring the new generations of Korean cooks to ensure that it will not be lost. In doing so, she has now been recognised as Asia's Best Female Chef in 2020. We sat down with the Korean chef to find out more about her Seoul-based restaurant Hansikgonggan and how she plans on preserving the traditions of her native cuisine with modernity.
Congratulations on becoming the winner of the Asia’s Best Female Chef Award 2020. What does this award mean to you?
For my entire career, I did what I did without watching the clock. This career could have just been lost in the midst of time. But I’m blessed with this award, it’s more than what I deserve. I wish my senior female chef counterparts who have worked constantly can be awarded with me.
Can you tell me a bit more about your restaurant Hansikgonggan?
Hansikgonggan is a restaurant that preserves the foundation of Korean culture by serving refined traditional Korean food. It’s also a space where I can reflect on various experiences working with Korean cuisine for the past 40 years. We are using as many traditional cooking techniques as possible while also researching ways people today can enjoy these foods together. A clear view of Changdeokgung Palace, which is next to the restaurant, is something that only Hansikgonggan guests can find. Our food, along with the scenery, is offered in a space where you can experience Korean tastes and charm together.
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Did you encounter any challenges when you opened the restaurant?
Running a restaurant is not only about cooking food. It’s also about managing the workforce and [things like] tax. When I was working for hotels, all I needed to do was cook. Compared to my long career as a chef, managing a business is new to me. And I’m learning new things every day.
What was it like to be a young chef rising through the ranks of Seoul’s hotel kitchens?
I was lucky enough to become a head chef only a few years after I started my career. About 5 years after I started working in a hotel kitchen, I was in charge of a newly opened Korean restaurant. As a leader, it was not easy to lead other male chefs who were older, had longer careers, and were going towards the same direction as me.
Fast forward to today, how are you hoping to preserve Korean culture and the culinary traditions that come with it?
I preserve traditional Korean flavours through seasoning and cooking techniques, while also incorporating new ingredients. I also show Korean style and nuances through plating and presentation, converging all these details and coming up with new dishes. That’s how I built my own style. That’s why at Hansikgonggan, we serve traditional recipes in a modern setting, while using modern presentation and plating to evoke a modern day feel to the food.
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Asia’s Best Female Chef 2020 Cho Hee-sook of Hansikgonggan in Seoul[/caption]
You've researched Korean cuisine and local ingredients extensively, can you give me an example of something you use in your cooking?
It would be great if we can always eat the freshest seasonal local ingredients at any time. But in Korea, because of our brutal winters, we use a lot of preservation techniques in our cooking. We harvest the best ingredients when it’s in season and store them. One example would be Bugak, our signature menu from Hansikgongga. Bugak is made by thinly slicing vegetables or seaweed coated in a glutinous rice paste. It has to be dried for 1 to 3 days and then deep-fried before serving. I use the phrase “food encasing seasons”, because just like traditional Korean jang (sauces), kimchi and jang-a-chi (pickled food), it preserves seasonal ingredients for a long time. These are techniques that were passed down by our wise ancestors.
Much like Chinese cuisine, Korean food is still not considered as high end enough. Why do you think this is the case with Asian cuisines, especially when compared to western counterparts like Italian or French?
In my opinion, there is a myriad of stereotypes that surround Asian cuisine and the global knowledge and awareness of these cuisines are still very little. For example, people tend to think that Korean food is mostly spicy and salty. Only very few dishes, like Korean barbecue, kimchi [fermented cabbage] and bibimbap [rice topped with sautéed vegetables and meat] are known globally. Many foreign guests are surprised by my food. They ask me if it’s really Korean food. This is because the culture is not well known and the global knowledge about the culture is fragmentary -- people do not know the background.
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What do you think of fine dining today?
The fine dining scene in Korea has been changed according to the guests’ lifestyles. Every time I try to come up with new dishes to surprise my guests, I ask myself what’s the end goal? What makes it the best and does it even exist? My Asia’s Best Female Chef win doesn’t make me the best female chef who cooks the absolute best in Asia. I’m worried about society exhausting themselves and competing for endless supremacy. My opinion of fine dining has changed as I've gotten older. These days, I think real fine dining is what makes my guests feel relaxed and comforted.
Where do you see Korean cuisine going in the future?
At the beginning of my career, it was very difficult to try new things – breaking away from tradition was discouraged. But as time went on, Korean food started to fuse with Western ingredients, and modern Korean cuisine started to rapidly spread, led by the globalisation of Korean gastronomy. Now we see various food cultures combining with Korean, and the refining of traditional Korean flavours with modern touches taking place -- this can be considered modern Korean cuisine. This movement will keep changing according to the diners’ demands. To all chefs, cooking can no longer be defined and categorised by cuisine. It’s about cooking in their own style and the value of the food will be only determined by the market.
What’s next for you?
Personally, I would like to put all my experiences and knowledge together. So, it will be helpful to someone who needs it. But my top priority right now is Hansikgonggan to become the best Korean restaurant.
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The Top 10 Hong Kong Foodies to Follow on Instagram
These days, everyone is considered a foodie. Smartphones and cameras are snapping away before we even have our forks ups -- "The camera eats first!" -- but some definitely do it better than others.
With incredible lighting, angles, props and top shots that feed our eyes to no end, here are the top 10 foodies based in Hong Kong to follow for satisfying your hunger for amazing food photos.
@thatfoodcray
Run by Nicole Fung, this popular account is jam-packed with high-quality photographs of the most mouthwatering food in town. Hip-hop lyrics and references form the basis of her lexicon, making it one of the coolest food accounts to follow in Hong Kong.
@supertastermel
Covering food and travel in her photographs, Melissa’s shots are bright and intense, showing the finer details of each dish she eats. If you’re looking to see close-ups of incredible food, you'll find them here -- and no doubt they'll make you hungry every time.
@gourmetyan
With wild colours in an assortment of styles and placements, Yan’s food shots are great to look at, with the frame brimming full of food. Guaranteed to make your stomach rumble, it looks as though she's constantly at a good buffet -- what a life!
@foodmeupscotty
It turns out that Anthony Clark is a fit foodie. As he revealed to us in a Prestige Online interview, he dines at some of Hong Kong’s best restaurants, reviews them honestly and then hits the gym in order to burn off all those calories.
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@saiilee
Saii’s account is for those that enjoy a little more than food. He documents not only the delicious dishes he encounters, but also the fun places he’s travelled. You’ll also often see an action shot or two with hand, chopstick, fork or spoon in his shots.
@thisgirlabroad
This girl abroad is a Canadian-born foodie who is now based in Hong Kong. Her account is full of incredible close-ups of food as well as shots of herself out and about in the city. You’ll also find photos of her holding food (with perfect manicure) while flashing her signature smile, too.
@yewwooi
A Malaysian living in Hong Kong, Jeff frequently travels all around to capture moments including food, coffee, scenery and design. His aesthetics are extremely pleasing to the eye, with an almost monochromatic look to his photos, with pops of colour bursting through.
@hk_foodblog
Another one that looks like she uses an analogue camera and film is HK Food Blog. Her style is clean and she always seems to have the perfect angle on food. From fine-dining to street food, you’ll find some seriously good shots that not only will make you hungry, but feel inspired to shoot your own photos, too.
@foodandtravelhk
It’s no wonder that Gloria’s Instagram looks so good as she also happens to be a food stylist. Taking us around the world with her travels, her food shots often make use of natural sunlight and materials, making way for a positively bright account to follow.
@phoenix_k
On the moody side of Instagram is Phoenix’s account, which highlights food in a different light, a darker one. As if perpetually wearing sunglasses, the snapshots seem more mysterious and forever in the shadows, until food enters the frame and brightens it all up. Just like real life.
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Where Chefs Eat: Matt Abergel of Ronin and Yardbird Hong Kong
Whether it’s an extravagant fine dining restaurant or a humble street side hawker stall, we are perpetually on the quest for delectable foods — whatever the occasion. So, for the ultimate insider scoop, who better to personally recommend the best eats around the world than top chefs who’ve seen and tasted it all. We go right to the source as international culinary legends reveal where they eat and what they order when the aprons come off.
Matt Abergel is a name that is frequently brought up when speaking of the food and beverage scene in Hong Kong. Co-owner and Executive Chef of Rōnin and Yardbird Hong Kong, Co-founder of Sunday’s Grocery and Sunday’s Spirits (a bodega/deli style store with an independent brand of Japanese alcoholic beverages), (and author of James Beard Foundation award-winning book, Chicken and Charcoal. He is responsible for shaping the Hong Kong culinary culture and the master of yakitori, earning him recognition locally and globally. We chat up the chef and find out where he dines when he’s not whipping up innovative new culinary ideas.
For an evening of fine dining…
The place to go for refined French food is Belon. Chef Daniel Calvert’s cooking is always well-executed, focused, and delicious and there’s always something new to try on the menu.
Belon, 41 Elgin Street, SoHo, Central; +852 2152 2872
For a cheeky cheat meal…
Mak Ming Noodles serve classic Hong Kong comfort food. They have the best Soi Gau Wonton Meen -- the broth is incredibly clean and deep, the wontons are expertly made, and the noodles are silky.
Mak Ming Noodles, 309 Queen's Road West, Sai Ying Pun; +852 2633 2368
Mak Ming Noodles, 6 Mercury Street, North Point; +852 2623 9896
For a romantic date night…
Chef Motoyama of Mikasaya is one of my favorite sushi chefs in Hong Kong and the service at Mikasaya is great. He serves extremely high quality fish in a chill and relaxed environment. I always go for the omakase menu. For kaiseki, Kitaohji in Tokyo is a fantastic place for a great meal on a special date or occasion. The food is excellent and the beautifully decorated private rooms are perfect for a memorable date experience.
Mikasaya, Unit B, 2/F, Cameron Plaza, 23 - 25A Cameron Road, Tsim Sha Tsui; +852 2301 3555
For getting friends and family together…
Celebrity Cuisine is a favourite of mine, with with delicious, spot-on Cantonese cooking. Whether you go for dim sum or dinner, make sure to order the crispy paper skinned chicken, fried rice, and sweet and sour pork.
Celebrity Cuisine, 1/F, Lan Kwai Fong Hotel, 3 Kau U Fong, Central; +852 3650 0066
For a healthy detox…
Healthy, simple, and a convenient location to my restaurants, is Be-Juiced + Bar. They have great cold-pressed juices and smoothies that my kids also enjoy.
Be-Juiced + Bar, 45 Peel Street, Central; +852 2668 6231
For happy hour tipples…
When in Tokyo, I like to go to Bloody Angle. This bar is located in Shibuya and is as no frills as you get. It’s one of the best record bars as far as I’m concerned and all of the records they play are available for purchase
Bloody Angle, 4/F, 1 Chrome -- 15-16, Shibuya, Tokyo; +81 3 6427 5178
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Where Chefs Eat: Fumio Suzuki, Kappo Cuisine Master of Zuicho
Whether it’s an extravagant fine dining restaurant or a humble street side hawker stall, we are perpetually on the quest for delectable foods — whatever the occasion. So, for the ultimate insider scoop, who better to personally recommend the best eats around the world than top chefs who’ve seen and tasted it all. We go right to the source as international culinary legends reveal where they eat and what they order when the aprons come off.
Taking over the space formerly occupied by three Michelin-starred Sushi Shikon is Zuicho. Tucked away and easily missed, the kappo cuisine restaurant is where kaiseki formality meets izakaya intimacy. Head Chef Fumio Suzuki is a traditional kappo chef, mastering the “cut and cook” method to prepare an omakase format menu drawing out the flavours of the most seasonal ingredients. We spoke to the Tokyo native to find out where his top spots for wining and dining are in the world.
For an evening of fine dining…
Ginza Kudo is a traditional Japanese restaurant in Tokyo. The chef is special to me as he has been instrumental in my development and inspiration to be a kappo chef. The owner was the long-time chef of a very famous restaurant before he opened this (his own) restaurant in 2017. I think he's a true master of constantly innovating and producing new dishes for his guests, and I learn a lot every time I experience a meal there. It is well worth a visit if you are in Tokyo, but best to book well in advance as it has become one of Ginza's most popular spots.
Ginza Kudo, 3/F, Sunlit Ginza Building III, 5-14-14, Ginza, Chuo-ku, Tokyo; +81 03 3545 1091
For a cheeky cheat meal…
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Photo: That Food Cray[/caption]
Kozy Okonomi-yaki Teppan-yaki is my favourite comfort food and I always enjoy this style where you are served directly by the chef from across the counter (like Zuicho!). The quality here is as good as my favourite places back in Japan, and the price is reasonable too.
Kozy Okonomiyaki Teppanyaki, 9/F, Circle Plaza, 499 Hennessy Road, Causeway Bay; +852 2591 1281
For a romantic date night…
For kaiseki in Tokyo, Kitaohji is a fantastic place for a great meal on a special date or occasion. The food is excellent and the beautifully decorated private rooms are perfect for a memorable date experience.
Several locations including:
Kitaohji, Second Ulu Eagle Building, 1/F, 8-5-12, Ginza, Chuo-ku, Tokyo; +81 03 3575 0707
For getting friends and family together…
I love 298 in Hong Kong to eat with family and friends. Yakinuku is fun and interactive for a group. The meat here is excellent, and the overall dining experience reminds me of my favourite yakiniku spots back home in Japan.
298 Nikuya Room, 2/F, Pearl Oriental House, 60 Stanley Street, Central; +852 3568 9298
For a healthy detox…
Cooking hot pot meals at home! I love experimenting with hot pots and mixing fresh ingredients both from Japan and sourced locally in Hong Kong. Food prepared at home gives the most control over nutrition and healthy eating, too.
For happy hour tipples…
Bar Calma is a personal favourite as I enjoyed drinking there with my brother-in-law in Tokyo. It's got a dark, calm, and chilled out atmosphere with nice cocktails and a good selection of wine and whiskey. I like these kind of places that are popular hang-outs for locals in a residential area.
Bar Calma, 5-14-8 Shirokanedai, Tiny 3F, Minato 108-0071, Tokyo; +81 03 3449 2706
The post Where Chefs Eat: Fumio Suzuki, Kappo Cuisine Master of Zuicho appeared first on Prestige Online - Hong Kong.
Startup Life: Vincent Mui of Test Kitchen on His Unique Dining Movement
There is never a dull moment in Hong Kong’s dining scene. But what Vincent Mui realised was as vivacious as the F&B world is, and there was a hole in the industry he wanted to fill. So in 2015, the entrepreneur opened up Test Kitchen – a concept that literally brought the most talented culinary influencers right into the heart of the city.
Though only open for a few short years, his establishment has become one of the most watched (and booked) by foodies locally and abroad. With the likes of critically acclaimed chefs such as celebrity chef and Top Chef contender Kwame Onwuachi (USA), Ray Adriansyah of Locavore (Indonesia), Ben Spalding of The Fat Duck (United Kingdom), Andrew Walsh of Cure (Singapore), to upcoming pop-up crossover with Pablo Lagrange from Argentina, Test Kitchen has been the place to experience and experiment with international cuisines. We chat with Vincent to find out more about the business, along with his triumphs and challenges.
Name: Vincent Mui
Profession: Restaurateur
Industry: Food & Beverage, specifically pop-ups and events
Start up since: March 2015
Company size: Small
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Founder Vincent Mui and Head Chef Devon Hou[/caption]
Tell us about your business. What do you do?
Test Kitchen is a unique dining movement that invites chefs around the world (and occasionally from within Hong Kong) to cook the food they love and share their stories in four of five night pop-up dinners, usually running twice a month. Hong Kong diners are knowledgeable and open-minded about new tastes and experiences; they want to get to know our chefs and understand what drives them and their food.
Our beautiful two-storey street-level shop is located in Sai Ying Pun where we host our pop-up dinners. We also curate private events, including anything from sit-down dinners to cocktail parties. A new sector we are recently focusing on is Catering. We want to extend our culinary team to showcase their brilliant work outside the four walls of Test Kitchen.
Tell me about your best and worst day at work?
My best day at work is when both the guests and our team are really happy with how the event turned out. That can be nailing the dinner service on the first night of the pop-up to finishing a private dinner or catering event where we’ve surpassed all our clients' expectations.
My worst day at work is when the unexpected happens -- a stove breaks down or the oven doesn’t quite work -- you need to scramble to get things resolved immediately.
What do you do when you’re not at work?
I love to drive and every weekend I go out for a spin with my friends, come rain or shine. When I drive, there’s nothing on my mind other than the steering wheel, the 3 pedals, the shifter and the next corner.
Looking back now, what would you have done differently?
I actually have no regrets! I’m one of those people who believes that everything happens for a reason. So whether they are mistakes or good decisions, there’s always something to take from it. What matters most is that you are better than you were yesterday.
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Guest chef Pablo Lagrange adding the finishing touches to his dish[/caption]
What is a normal work day like?
Every day I take 30 minutes to think and strategise about what I need to do for the day ahead… and then I get on with it! There are so many elements, everything from liaising with new chefs we're bringing in to cook or dealing with local producers, to working on or finessing private events, or arranging wine pairings that will accompany our menus. There's never a quiet moment!
What advice would you give to someone looking to start up?
Follow your heart, and don’t be afraid of the unknown. My experience has shown that we all come across many different perspectives throughout our journey, and they can all teach us something.
What would you be doing if you weren’t doing what you do now?
I'd likely be working in a regular full-service restaurant. I think my love for this industry will always mean I'm in a place where good food is served and I am empowered to make guests feel good.
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Chef Krzysztof Czerwinski and Chef Phillipa Armitage-Mattin preparing for their four-hands collaboration[/caption]
As a child, what did you aspire to be?
I always wanted to become a race car driver. Maybe one day I'll be in the position to go racing and build a team from scratch!
What has been your biggest hurdle?
Striking a balance between pushing the culinary boundaries to meeting diners’ expectation, with culinary teams coming over to Test Kitchen from all around the world.
How did you overcome it?
Through time and maintaining a constant conversation between guests and chefs.
Why Hong Kong?
I’m born and raised in Hong Kong, my closest family is here, and this is my home. Hong Kong is also obviously an international city and a melting pot of all cuisines. I love how you can get a bowl of beef brisket noodles in a 60 year-old establishment, then go right next door to a hip coffee shop that could literally be straight out of Melbourne.
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A mackerel dish presented at a pop-up dinner[/caption]
If you were to invest in another start up, which would it be?
Technology. I’m the least tech guy going, but I’m fascinated by what it can do, and what it does for the world. It'd be great to be part of it and learn their business and trade by investment.
How hands-on are you?
Very -- and I love it. Especially the push during dinner service, the buzz of working with everyone, creating an event, be it a popup dinner series with an overseas team, a private dinner party for 10 or catering a wedding for 200 guests.
What are your goals for 2020? And in the near future?
To expand Test Kitchen's private events and catering sector, while continuing to invite brilliant international and local chefs to our kitchen, as well as find a way to contribute more to Hong Kong society.
How do you define success? Do you consider yourself being successful?
To be a good husband, father and son. To create a business that I can pour my love into that is both profitable and benefiting those who are involved -- and hopefully being able to inspire a few people along the journey.
The post Startup Life: Vincent Mui of Test Kitchen on His Unique Dining Movement appeared first on Prestige Online - Hong Kong.