Celebrity Life
The Best New Menus in Hong Kong in April 2021
The Carlyle hotel-inspired bolthole -- slated to open on the uppermost floors of Rosewood Hong Kong later this year -- will offer a blueprint for the eponymous group's vision of "a new kind of international members' club". We venture north of the harbour to discover just what that entails...
Hitherto, the Hong Kong ecosystem of private members' clubs has been split broadly between two camps: at one end, you have venerable institutions catered to the needs of the city's professionals (the FCC) and those who surround them (the KCC); at the other, a burgeoning array of social haunts meant to profit from the growing number of Silicon Valley types -- hawkers of crypto, CBD cafes, and other speculative investment opportunities -- who reside here.
Call me Debbie Downer, but neither feels like an especially glam place to visit. After all, such clubs justify their patronage by way of mostly pragmatic considerations: a convenient location; access to business networking opportunities; affordable gym membership; and so forth. This, as Rosewood Hotels CEO Sonia Cheng well knows is where Carlyle & Co. can break the mould -- by conjuring a little glamour into Hong Kong's mostly comatose members' club scene.
Best thought of as a kind of pied-à-terre to the Rosewood Hong Kong (spanning the 54th-56th floor of the hotel) Carlyle & Co. is, in effect, Cheng's answer to the boutique members' clubs that have dominated pop culture these last 20 years. In Hong Kong -- where bureaucratic red tape is frequent; and decent-sized real estate scant -- her hotel group's latest venture feels especially impressive -- if for no other reason than the sheer audacity of it all.
In recent weeks, the first details of the club's leviathan 25,000 sq. ft. premises have begun to emerge, inspired in broad strokes by the "intriguing, inimitable and ultimately indefinable" style of The Carlyle in New York (incidentally also a brand owned by Rosewood Hotels). To orchestrate this vision of Hong Kong-via-Manhattan, Rosewood turned to British designer Ilse Crawford, whose approach has imbued the club's many rooms with a light, playful sensibility -- affording each a healthy dose of individual personality.
For fusty decadents like yours truly, the gentlemen's spaces -- including a barber, shoeshine, and capsule store by an award-winning haberdasher -- hold immense charm -- even though they espouse just one of many eclectic visual styles members will enjoy each time they navigate the club. The aforementioned differ significantly from spaces like the Cabaret Bar and Sitting Room, both of which employ the medium of painting (by artists Jean-Philippe Delhomme and Christina Zimpel respectively) to celebrate The Carlyle hotel's legendary Bemelmans murals.
Supper & Supping
In the spirit of its progenitor, the various dining venues at Carlyle & Co. seem to be accompanied by an august sense of occasion. The crux of the action happens at the brasserie, which (like any decent club restaurant in Hong Kong) serves a medley of Western, Chinese, and all-day delicacies. Here, the focus is on simply cooking the freshest produce the club can source -- various of the small plates are smoked, cured, or otherwise preserved in-house -- yet it's hardly the most theatrical outlet. That honour belongs to Café Carlyle, an intimate supper club intended as the local chapter of the eponymous tippling destination in New York. Members can expect this to be the repository of the club's live musical programming, which (consistent with the historic acts that have taken to the stage at the Carlyle hotel) will include an assortment of uniquely American artforms like jazz, funk, and blues.
Members craving a dose of sunshine can also take a selection of food and drink on the club's 55th-floor terrace, which (much like the Rosewood property at large) enjoys the sort of view that's conducive to sonnet writing or spontaneous tears of joy. Flanking one end of that terrace, you'll find the local chapter of Bemelmans Bar. Like its namesake, the menu here is split roughly equally between fine wines, punchbowls and classic cocktails; though, at the weekend, you can expect a certain frenetic atmosphere to take hold, as the space merges with the terrace for live DJ performances against the backdrop of Victoria Harbour.
Cosy quarters, brimming with personality
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The 'Tommy' suite, inspired by legendary Bemelmans barman Tommy Rowles. -
Draped in sumptuous tones of red and onyx, the 'Kitt' suite is a paean to singer-actress Eartha Kitt, a mainstay of the original Café Carlyle until her passing in 2008.
Though Carlyle & Co. members can easily book themselves into one of the 400-plus rooms at the surrounding Rosewood property, the entire 54th floor of the club is given over to eight themed suites -- all of which celebrate the history of The Carlyle hotel. More or less equal in size, each offers an inviting and distinctive interior personality. If you're retiring following an evening spent drinking (one too many) Martinis for instance, the 'Tommy' seems an apt choice -- named for and inspired by the legendary Bemelmans bartender Mr. Tommy Rowles. Other known personalities include Dorothy Draper, the original 'modern Baroque' decorator of The Carlyle's interiors; and Eartha Kitt, the renowned actress and Broadway musician. For dedicated students of café society, a stay in every single suite would seem like money well-spent.
A variety of membership packages are available at Carlyle & Co., with or without health club membership. To learn more about rates (or inquire about eligibility) visit Carlyle & Co. online.
The post The Best New Menus in Hong Kong in April 2021 appeared first on Prestige Online - Hong Kong.
Review: Artemis & Apollo Brings Greek Delights to Wan Chai
The power of social media is more apparent than ever. Already this year, we've seen the Netflix film Bird Box spawn challenges that made people run around blindfolded and a stock image of an egg that went viral and beat Kylie Jenner’s world record, amassing the most likes of all time -- more than 50 million. Now, everyone is throwing it back for the #TenYearChallenge to show how much (or how little) they have aged in the past decade. I happily jumped on the bandwagon and showed off my laugh lines with pride -- until I stumbled on a friend’s version and resolved that he must either be a fresh-faced vampire or a time traveller. But of course that wasn't the case; he's in fact just a happy and healthy Greek.
It turns out that the Greeks do have the answer to a longer and happier life. Regularly appearing at the top of the longevity lists and living past 100, it all comes down to the Mediterranean diet and lifestyle. But it’s not all about eating healthy salads and olive oil -- it’s also about taking the time to enjoy it. We’re talking about a good amount of rest and unhurried meals with loved ones, on top of clear blue waters and a sprinkling of sun. Unfortunately, we’re a little far from Santorini for that part.
[caption id="attachment_114554" align="alignnone" width="1289"] Artemis & Apollo offers a taste of the Mediterranean in Hong Kong.[/caption]
Unable to hit the sunny islands just yet, we instead visited the newly opened Artemis & Apollo. Nestled in Wan Chai’s cool neighbourhood of bars and restaurants on Moon Street, the new restaurant bears the distinct hallmark of a Black Sheep Restaurant and is already full of patrons looking for a good time.
[caption id="attachment_114559" align="alignnone" width="1675"] The modern Greek taverna has been designed by celebrated interior architect and designer Sean Dix.[/caption]
Sliding doors open up to a contemporary-style taverna which seems narrow at first, but actually curves over to another side, revealing a twin dining room, in honour of the restaurant’s eponymous Greek twins: the goddess of the hunt (Artemis) and the god of music (Apollo). Domed ceilings help open up the space, which also features whitewashed walls complemented by natural walnut wood furniture and olive green seating. The atmosphere emulates that of a family-run taverna in Athens; it's relaxed and welcoming, lively with music and the buzz of conversation. There's also a courtyard in the back for alfresco moments when the weather warms up.
[caption id="attachment_114555" align="alignnone" width="1682"] Head Chef Andrée LeFuel previously worked under esteemed chefs such as Daniel Boulud and Ludo Lefebvre.[/caption]
The menu is concise, but its brevity bodes well for dishes that are executed well and, luckily for the drinkers at the table, makes way for a rather impressive Hellenic wine list too. We opt for the recommended Atma Red 2016 from the Thymiopoulos Vineyards, which is refreshingly smooth and fruity, with strawberry and pomegranate on the nose. The staff are knowledgeable and we hear all about Head Chef Andrée LeFuel’s passion and experience in the cuisine, having worked in fast-fine Greek restaurants in San Francisco, which helps to build our anticipation for his elevated traditional Greek food, made for the modern discerning diner.
Dinner begins easily with some mandatory mezze, including a creamy hummus and tzatziki Theodoros that I scoop up enthusiastically with warm pita and vegetable crudité. It all feels very healthy, so we balance that out with the hearty saganaki platanos (a dish similar to the pan-fried halloumi at sister restaurant Maison Libanaise). Here, saganaki, a native Greek cheese made from the milk of both sheep and goat, is cooked on a cast-iron skillet with candied apricots and honey, resulting in a caramelised, savoury and chewy appetiser.
[caption id="attachment_114558" align="alignnone" width="1685"] Left to right: Spanakopita, hummus and marinated olives.[/caption]
This is followed by spanakopita, a golden triangle which is brought to the table and cut with scissors to reveal a rich spinach and feta filling which is a touch too salty, but saved by the perfectly layered, crispy and buttery homemade filo pastry. Another winning dish for us was the deep fried calamaraki with pickled chillies. Made with fresh calamari marinated in yoghurt which helps to tenderise the seafood for an easy bite, it’s served with a squeeze of lemon, a side of tzatziki and tomato curry sauce.
Halfway through our meal, a glass of Ouza 12 -- a fiery, anise-flavoured liqueur made from crushed grape skins and aromatics -- is poured, and we graciously oblige. My fear of shots subside, as we enjoy ours with a little water mixed in, turning it milky-white in colour and fresh with herbaceous and intense notes of liquorice.
[caption id="attachment_114557" align="alignnone" width="1340"] Pictured here: Saganaki platanos and Steki tou ilia lamb chops.[/caption]
Back to our main course of spit-roasted meats: Chunky pieces of pork souvlaki are delightfully smoky from the charcoal grill and sliced to serve, while steki tou ilia lamb chops, an homage to Athens, are served by the kilo. It’s a huge dish and we enjoy the tender meat with Greek-style harissa yoghurt, but the fibrous herbs scattered on the lamb keep getting stuck in my teeth -- a slight annoyance.
By this point in our meal, the noise level (along with the amount of people) in the restaurant rises significantly and we can barely hear each other as we quaff the remainder of our drinks. But the show must go on and a Greek meal wouldn’t be complete without beloved baklava. Artemis & Apollo’s version is little heavy handed on the syrup but incredibly crispy and nutty, even after I saved one and put it in the fridge for a few days.
Upon finishing my epic Greek feast, I feel satisfied. My stomach is full of great food and I enjoyed an evening with interesting company (when I could hear her), exceptional service and copious amounts of wine and drinks. It’s somewhere I would like to revisit, so much so, that I leave feeling radiant, probably glowing from the Ouza, but also because I finally found the thing keeping my Greek companion looking so happy.
Perfect for: Group dinners and drinks with friends in a casual and lively atmosphere.
Hours: Open daily from 6:00pm to 11:00pm.
Artemis & Apollo, G/F, 9 & 11 Moon Street, Wan Chai, Hong Kong; +852 6991 6231
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