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Celebrity Life

Bread Sushi is Bjorn Shen’s new bizarre creation

Small’s V2 omakase menu breaks down the pizza dough into mouthfuls of delicious Asian-inspired morsels.

The post Bread Sushi is Bjorn Shen’s new bizarre creation appeared first on The Peak Magazine.

Restaurant Review: Hotel du Vin and Bistro, Edinburgh in Scotland

The Hotel du Vin group offer 19 unique experiences across the UK, including Hotel du Vin and Bistro in Edinburgh. A street or two from the city’s Royal Mile, which draws itself through the centre of Scotland’s most elegant city, Bistro du Vin is conveniently situated and offers a taste of classic French dining among […]

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Double Take: Revisiting a Prime Example of Great Steak at Bistecca

Nestled in Progression Building in the thick of Hong Kong's nightlife scene is Italian steakhouse, Bistecca. Since its opening in 2009, it has reinforced its position as one of the go-tos for meaty madness. How it has withstood the city's ever-changing dining scene and the diners’ hunger for newness for ten years now, is pretty simple. It has continued to serve up rustic, feel-good sharing-style plates in a casual setting.

It’s a daunting task to review a restaurant which you already have a soft spot for. But our recent visit to Bistecca has confirmed that they have fared well over the years and if anything, only solidified its status in our books.

 

It all started with a glass of champagne (because, why not?) and a quick  visit to the “butcher shop”. Guests are invited to explore the cuts of meat in special fridges, dangling on meat hooks and on carving tables to choose the steak of their choice. Head chef Marc Benkoe and his team man the open kitchen counter to answer any questions you may have regarding flavour, texture, temperature and so on. The starving carnivores we are, we went along with the Australian Wagyu M5 tomahawk.

 

 

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Bistecca del Capo M5 Wagyu Tomahawk Daily special cut

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Back at our table, a family-sized spread of cold cuts, soft cheese and antipasti was waiting. Everything was an exact reflection of our expectations and memory. The homemade Stracciatella was the fan favourite. The satisfaction of cutting through the bouncy pouch to leak a luscious creamy goodness never gets old. How quickly it all got mopped up with fresh bread and a drizzle of olive oil proved its popularity at our table.

The enormity of our steak has been overlooked over the counter and brought before us – another case of eyes wider than our stomachs. We get straight to business taking this monster down, but not without all the bells and whistles that come with it. Served on the side are stalks of asparagus bathed in bernaise sauce, balsamic glazed mushrooms, parmesan creamed spinach, and truffle fries.

The only fear when ordering a such big chunk of meat is always the cook, which was immediately put to rest upon the first cut. It’s clear that this isn’t Chef Benkoe’s first rodeo – the tender, juicy and an exacting bleed was masterfully executed.

Though our gorging efforts were maximal, our defeat was inevitable. It was time to surrender. What we were unable to stomach was packed for us to go.

The return to Bistecca left me with the comfortable familiarity I was looking for. This dining concept has held up its reputation to loyally serve the same no-bullshit, big portion family style food that we fell in love with since its opening.

 

 

The post Double Take: Revisiting a Prime Example of Great Steak at Bistecca appeared first on Prestige Online - Hong Kong.

Review: L’Envol Takes Off with Fine French Cuisine and Lands Perfectly Balanced on Our Plates

I consider myself a fairly balanced person: I’m quick to sidestep monotony and committed to a respectable work-life balance without obsessing over that other balance (the one in my bank account). Suffice to say that balance is a rather important element that I, along with many other professionals in the city, strive for. So when the weight of the work week was becoming a little heavy, it felt felicitous to visit the French fine-dining restaurant L’Envol.

[caption id="attachment_148934" align="alignnone" width="1654"] Chef Olivier Elzer is now the Culinary Director at French restaurant L'Envol.[/caption]

The new restaurant is headed by lauded French chef Olivier Elzer, who cut his teeth working for culinary greats Joël Robuchon and Pierre Gagnaire, before his own restaurant, Seasons, earned a Michelin star in 2015. Having left that restaurant in 2017 to pursue other projects, I was delighted to hear that Elzer was back in the kitchen knocking out his unique and inventive approach to French cuisine once more. L’Envol, meaning "the flight" in French, is located in The St. Regis Hong Kong -- one of Hong Kong’s newest luxury hotels that has since become the haunt of choice for the city’s social elite and incoming travellers looking to indulge.

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I take the lift up to the third-floor restaurant and upon entering, notice the large open kitchen that spans the length of the main dining area like a large window display. It’s a spacious work area where chefs can be seen whizzing around prepping the meal ahead. The dining room is tastefully designed as acclaimed designer André Fu’s interpretation of a contemporary French salon. Eschewing elaborate ornaments and gaudy finishings, the space is instead sumptuous and stylish. A palette of stone grey, pewter and soft creams wrap the room with hand-painted silks that flow along the furnishings and walls, while the marble floor, chandeliers and gold accents fortify a classic elegance throughout.

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Then, I discover the cheese and wine cave: Holding 25 different varieties of cheese from France, its pungent aroma fills the air and I vow to get a cheese plate for dessert. Feeling sufficiently spoilt in the posh surroundings, I promptly take my seat to sample some canapés, including a cube of foie gras with ginger that sparks both my excitement and appetite. Others are less notable, except for crackers dipped in a lush cream and chive sauce from Alsace, where Elzer was raised. A warm assortment of bread also arrives; I opt for black rye which pairs fantastically with luscious Champagne butter. I am, however, quick to withdraw from the carb-loaded attack as the menu indicates that this is just the precursor to the five-course dinner “journey”.

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Meals come with informative wine recommendations from Chief Sommelier Tristan Pommier and for me, a crisp Chablis takes us through to the first course: a tasting of the black pearls of caviar from La Maison Nordique. I dive into the two dishes and begin with the delicate-tasting Ossetra harvested from Russian sturgeon. It’s layered with beef consommé jelly and horseradish topped with the sweet, nutty pops of caviar. Next, a textural play of sweet razor clam tartare is flourished with horseradish cream and the larger, briny beads of Shadi which come from schrenkii fish in China. It’s a really strong start and pulls me into submission for the courses to come.

Along with Elzer’s comeback is the return of his signature five-spiced tuna, which fans may fondly remember from Seasons. Lightly seared slices of tuna flirt with the zing of citrus and crispy shallots, mellowed by creamy, crushed avocado. Although not exactly the inspired new dish that I’d hoped for, it remains a favourite and a good balance of flavours that I gladly welcome onto L’Envol’s menu.

[caption id="attachment_148939" align="alignnone" width="1890"] Roasted John Dory is served with an aubergine confit and red wine sauce.[/caption]

Next there are more wholesome dishes: Roasted John Dory from Brittany reels us in while dismissing the antiquated wine adage of “white with fish and red with meat”. Cooked in white wine, the fish is more firm than flaky, but it makes for the ideal canvas painted with rich red wine sauce and meaty Fukuokan aubergine confit. A change of wine pace moves us onto a supple Syrah from Maxime Graillot Domaine des Lises, which is fruity and spicy on the nose but delightfully savoury on the palate. It’s paired with the next dish of the night, a flawlessly seared beef fillet from Kagoshima, glazed in glossy overcoat of French morels, escorted by crunchy potato tubes and the pointy tips of spring: Jérôme Galis green asparagus.

[caption id="attachment_148937" align="alignnone" width="2244"] Poached rhubarb, lemon Chantilly cream and white peach sorbet.[/caption]

Contrary to expectations, dessert is light, bright and fresh. Rhubarb poached in a verbena syrup sits atop lemon Chantilly cream and a soft square sponge. But it’s the quenelle of white peach sorbet that injects a taste of summer and the sharp creaminess that the dish craves. The cheese trolley warrants a special commendation as it visits the tables like a French Santa Claus bearing decadent gifts. Our selection includes the mountain cheese Reblochon, soft and creamy Saint-Marcellin, Cathare goat cheese and the buttery classic Sainte Maures -- all of which are intensified in flavour with freshly cut honeycomb and slathered on warm ginger bread, which deserves credit all on its own, too.

Before I slip into a cheese-induced coma, I pry myself away from the trolley and into a taxi home, where I brood over the meal and how all the elements seemed to key into one another. As anticipated, Elzer’s skills illustrate impeccable control and execution, but it’s the blend of harmonised flavours and melodic sequence of menu items that are truly exemplary. Some old and some new, some sensational and some definitely tamer, but always perfectly balanced. So when I need the scales to be tipped upwards again, you know where you’ll find me.

 

Perfect for: celebrating special occasions and indulgent dining with loved ones

Hours: Daily for lunch from 12:00 noon to 2:30pm, and dinner from 6:30pm to 10:30pm

The post Review: L’Envol Takes Off with Fine French Cuisine and Lands Perfectly Balanced on Our Plates appeared first on Prestige Online - Hong Kong.

Review: Mr Brown Brings Good Vibes and Western Barbecue to Wan Chai

Mr Brown

Thank goodness for long weekends. In Hong Kong, we get a total of seven Mondays or Fridays to elongate the days of rest: An extra 24 hours to explore the city, see friends, eat dim sum until we explode or just stay in and binge watch old movies. During one such recent long weekend, following a movie marathon at home, I decided to give my eyes a break from the screen and ventured out to Wan Chai’s new smokehouse and grill, Mr Brown.

Located on Ship Street, Mr Brown, the newborn sister (or brother) of the much-loved Middle Eastern restaurant Francis, is described as “a Western-style barbecue restaurant with Middle Eastern touches and American grill items”. That’ll be the reason for the name then, as it stems from Southern slang and refers to the dark, smoky part of barbecued meat.

[caption id="attachment_138629" align="alignnone" width="1024"]Mr Brown My butter half cocktail, made with butter washed bourbon, salted syrup and bitters.[/caption]

We enter the unassuming wood-panel façade to find a dark interior warmed up by hickory-coloured leather chairs, curved booths and spotlights playfully dotted around the restaurant. Much like its predecessor, the vibe is cool and casual -- a defining characteristic of co-founders James Ward, Simone Sammuri and head chef Asher Goldstein’s debut concept.

The open kitchen, alongside the bar, spans the restaurant and shows off an organised and smooth-running team as guests sit front row to catch all the culinary action. If you’re lucky, you’ll catch a glimpse of the impressive meats resting on the bar table, which  is reason enough to request a seat there. Here, rock music sets the mood, while upbeat hip-hop tunes slide in as the evening progresses.

We’re greeted with some friendly recommendations for drinks, and I opt to go with our server’s suggestion for something refreshing. She offers Just Brew It, a craft cocktail made with gin, osmanthus tea, cucumber and mint; I’m pleased  by light-hearted name, minty fragrance and cooling effect. After the first sip, however, I'm left with a sticky sweetness at the back of my throat from too much syrup, and I can’t help but swap it for another cocktail. This time. Drop It Like It’s Hot — a margarita with pink peppercorn-infused tequila — is handed to me. It’s savoury and tangy flavours bear a slight kick, and it's definitely more palatable. Meanwhile, my date orders a 961 Lebanese beer and the spicy pale ale with herbaceous notes seem to go down well; it's perhaps a better option to go with dinner.

[caption id="attachment_138628" align="alignnone" width="1303"]Mr Brown Smoked and pickled mussels, n'duja (a spicy spreadable Calabrian sausage), tomato and shallots.[/caption]

It doesn’t take long for the restaurant to fill up and our excitement, along with our appetites, grows. We begin eagerly and sample an assortment of items from each section: starters, vegetables, smoke & grill, and dessert. It’s a magnificent start as we nibble on smoked & pickled mussels that are brimming with flavour and a tang that lingers, as well as meaty slices of cuttlefish brought to life by the briny and piquant flavours of spicy tomato ink sauce. The Ibérico pork muffin doesn’t disappoint either, with meat smoked for six hours, plus fermented chilli aioli, mustard and pickled cabbage adding to the strong aromatics. The homemade English muffin also holds its own, allowing for a clean bite. My only wish was that there was more meat inside.

Now enter the show-stopping moment with my favourite side character: kohlrabi. The vegetable, a cross between a turnip and cabbage, is thinly sliced into crunchy ribbons and charred for smokiness, then rounded off with nuttiness from shredded hazelnuts. It’s a smouldering entrance which captivates our palates. We sit in awe of its smoky sorcery, because to achieve this level of flavour with a vegetable is no small feat, and I’m truly impressed by Mr Brown's execution.

Adequately prepped for the mains, we’re hit with swift and attentive service as they arrive at the table after being perfectly grilled. The brisket, smoked for 14 hours, has a black peppercorn crust and is served with a light BBQ sauce and pickles to cut through the richness. The meat is definitely tender, juicy even, but it lacked the depth of flavour we hoped for. Next, the lamb neck, which is the vehicle for some Middle Eastern spices, remains underwhelming. The accompanying green tomato salsa needs to be bolder, and the smoked aubergine could be smokier. My eyes dart to our neighbours’ smoked duck and I immediately feel food envy as they 'ooh' and 'aah' at the bird’s dark tan, a result of being coated in pomegranate molasses.

[caption id="attachment_138626" align="alignnone" width="1422"]Mr Brown Half smoked duck, pomegranate, fennel and barbecue sauce.[/caption]

But before we can wallow in regret, it's time for dessert. We opt for the caramel slice, slightly salted, with a malt hazelnut crumble and burnt meringue, which is soft like marshmallow and burnt just so to reveal slight bitter notes. The cheesecake, however, steals the show with a soufflé-like performance -- it's light, fluffy and creamy all at the same time. It’s cranked up a few notches with a sharp cherry sorbet that induces an eyes-closed moment of happiness as I surrender to the fruits of summer.

On reflection, I’ve enjoyed my evening much as I would a romantic comedy. There’s love for the dessert, feel-good starters, and even an upbeat soundtrack. Sure, the main elements could be improved, but that special moment -- thanks to the kohlrabi -- was definitely there. Put simply, what Mr Brown offers is a really great time. And with a few tweaks here and there, I think he may be on to a real blockbuster.

 

Perfect for: intimate but fun dates and groups of friends that love to share barbecue and beers

Hours: Tuesday to Sunday from 6:00pm to midnight (kitchen closes at 10:45pm)

The post Review: Mr Brown Brings Good Vibes and Western Barbecue to Wan Chai appeared first on Prestige Online - Hong Kong.

Review: Artemis & Apollo Brings Greek Delights to Wan Chai

The power of social media is more apparent than ever. Already this year, we've seen the Netflix film Bird Box spawn challenges that made people run around blindfolded and a stock image of an egg that went viral and beat Kylie Jenner’s world record, amassing the most likes of all time -- more than 50 million. Now, everyone is throwing it back for the #TenYearChallenge to show how much (or how little) they have aged in the past decade. I happily jumped on the bandwagon and showed off my laugh lines with pride -- until I stumbled on a friend’s version and resolved that he must either be a fresh-faced vampire or a time traveller. But of course that wasn't the case; he's in fact just a happy and healthy Greek.

It turns out that the Greeks do have the answer to a longer and happier life. Regularly appearing at the top of the longevity lists and living past 100, it all comes down to the Mediterranean diet and lifestyle. But it’s not all about eating healthy salads and olive oil -- it’s also about taking the time to enjoy it. We’re talking about a good amount of rest and unhurried meals with loved ones, on top of clear blue waters and a sprinkling of sun. Unfortunately, we’re a little far from Santorini for that part.

[caption id="attachment_114554" align="alignnone" width="1289"] Artemis & Apollo offers a taste of the Mediterranean in Hong Kong.[/caption]

Unable to hit the sunny islands just yet, we instead visited the newly opened Artemis & Apollo. Nestled in Wan Chai’s cool neighbourhood of bars and restaurants on Moon Street, the new restaurant bears the distinct hallmark of a Black Sheep Restaurant and is already full of patrons looking for a good time.

[caption id="attachment_114559" align="alignnone" width="1675"] The modern Greek taverna has been designed by celebrated interior architect and designer Sean Dix.[/caption]

Sliding doors open up to a contemporary-style taverna which seems narrow at first, but actually curves over to another side, revealing a twin dining room, in honour of the restaurant’s eponymous Greek twins: the goddess of the hunt (Artemis) and the god of music (Apollo). Domed ceilings help open up the space, which also features whitewashed walls complemented by natural walnut wood furniture and olive green seating. The atmosphere emulates that of a family-run taverna in Athens; it's relaxed and welcoming, lively with music and the buzz of conversation. There's also a courtyard in the back for alfresco moments when the weather warms up.

[caption id="attachment_114555" align="alignnone" width="1682"] Head Chef Andrée LeFuel previously worked under esteemed chefs such as Daniel Boulud and Ludo Lefebvre.[/caption]

The menu is concise, but its brevity bodes well for dishes that are executed well and, luckily for the drinkers at the table, makes way for a rather impressive Hellenic wine list too. We opt for the recommended Atma Red 2016 from the Thymiopoulos Vineyards, which is refreshingly smooth and fruity, with strawberry and pomegranate on the nose. The staff are knowledgeable and we hear all about Head Chef Andrée LeFuel’s passion and experience in the cuisine, having worked in fast-fine Greek restaurants in San Francisco, which helps to build our anticipation for his elevated traditional Greek food, made for the modern discerning diner.

Dinner begins easily with some mandatory mezze, including a creamy hummus and tzatziki Theodoros that I scoop up enthusiastically with warm pita and vegetable crudité. It all feels very healthy, so we balance that out with the hearty saganaki platanos (a dish similar to the pan-fried halloumi at sister restaurant Maison Libanaise). Here, saganaki, a native Greek cheese made from the milk of both sheep and goat, is cooked on a cast-iron skillet with candied apricots and honey, resulting in a caramelised, savoury and chewy appetiser.

[caption id="attachment_114558" align="alignnone" width="1685"] Left to right: Spanakopita, hummus and marinated olives.[/caption]

This is followed by spanakopita, a golden triangle which is brought to the table and cut with scissors to reveal a rich spinach and feta filling which is a touch too salty, but saved by the perfectly layered, crispy and buttery homemade filo pastry. Another winning dish for us was the deep fried calamaraki with pickled chillies. Made with fresh calamari marinated in yoghurt which helps to tenderise the seafood for an easy bite, it’s served with a squeeze of lemon, a side of tzatziki and tomato curry sauce.

Halfway through our meal, a glass of Ouza 12 -- a fiery, anise-flavoured liqueur made from crushed grape skins and aromatics -- is poured, and we graciously oblige. My fear of shots subside, as we enjoy ours with a little water mixed in, turning it milky-white in colour and fresh with herbaceous and intense notes of liquorice.

[caption id="attachment_114557" align="alignnone" width="1340"] Pictured here: Saganaki platanos and Steki tou ilia lamb chops.[/caption]

Back to our main course of spit-roasted meats: Chunky pieces of pork souvlaki are delightfully smoky from the charcoal grill and sliced to serve, while steki tou ilia lamb chops, an homage to Athens, are served by the kilo. It’s a huge dish and we enjoy the tender meat with Greek-style harissa yoghurt, but the fibrous herbs scattered on the lamb keep getting stuck in my teeth -- a slight annoyance.

By this point in our meal, the noise level (along with the amount of people) in the restaurant rises significantly and we can barely hear each other as we quaff the remainder of our drinks. But the show must go on and a Greek meal wouldn’t be complete without beloved baklava. Artemis & Apollo’s version is little heavy handed on the syrup but incredibly crispy and nutty, even after I saved one and put it in the fridge for a few days. 

Upon finishing my epic Greek feast, I feel satisfied. My stomach is full of great food and I enjoyed an evening with interesting company (when I could hear her), exceptional service and copious amounts of wine and drinks. It’s somewhere I would like to revisit, so much so, that I leave feeling radiant, probably glowing from the Ouza, but also because I finally found the thing keeping my Greek companion looking so happy.

Perfect for: Group dinners and drinks with friends in a casual and lively atmosphere.

Hours: Open daily from 6:00pm to 11:00pm. 

Artemis & Apollo, G/F, 9 & 11 Moon Street, Wan Chai, Hong Kong; +852 6991 6231 

The post Review: Artemis & Apollo Brings Greek Delights to Wan Chai appeared first on Prestige Online - Hong Kong.

Bedu: Middle Eastern Food for Modern Appetites

Far from traditional, this Bedouin journey is a ride through subtle yet satisfying flavours.

The post Bedu: Middle Eastern Food for Modern Appetites appeared first on Prestige Online - Hong Kong.

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