Celebrity Life
Stirring Renditions: n Search of Hong Kong’s Most Delicious Martini
Randy Lai ventures beyond his home bar in search of Hong Kong’s most delicious Martini, and the mixologists poised to revitalise the beverage for an exciting comeback.
Like most addictions popularised over the past year and a half – who could forget the meteoric spike in online searches for “how to make sourdough”? – my initial motive for fixing Martinis at home was, predictably, to drown out the internal screaming that runs concomitant with a worldwide health emergency. Those days when I felt especially helpless – typically, the result of another lockdown, new restriction or some horrible announcement of yet another untimely venue closure – I resorted to the “direct pour” method: in effect, a searingly cold glass of gin, where the presence of vermouth could best be described as “ineffectual”.
But as Hong Kong wobbles gingerly into the third quarter of something like a “normal” year, my appetite for the drink has taken on a decidedly more appreciative guise. Last year, consuming them (and the pivot to making cocktails at home in general) seemed crucially like an act of self-care. In 2021, the Martini symbolises a return to form, typifying a whole class of well-made classics that we now have the pleasure of falling in love with on an evening out, following many months of homemade analogues.
Of course, some will argue that the drink’s elemental simplicity makes it a poor choice of standard bearer in the mission to re-open bars and encourage over-the-counter drinking. How could any cocktail made with just three ingredients (namely: gin, vermouth and ice) possibly be good enough to warrant a return to the notoriously outbreak-prone realm of bars and restaurants?
The first salvo to this mostly rhetorical invective is fired from across the harbour. The triggerman in question? Simone Rossi. A veteran bartender of London’s Dorchester Hotel, he now heads up DarkSide, Rosewood Hong Kong’s sultry hideaway for jazz, classic cocktails and premium aged spirits. Ranked No 40 on Asia’s 50 Best list, the bar stirs up one of Hong Kong’s most popular Martinis, and a litany of beverages made in the same minimalist style. “In order to foster interest in the classics, we first needed to have a very well-rounded signature,” says Rossi. “That’s why we created the Martini Vs Vesper, as a kind of baby step for casual drinkers, taking the traditional gin/ vermouth pairing and making it a little more light-hearted and approachable.”
To the layman, the signature concoction will appear uncannily similar to the archetypal Martini, served – in the hallowed tradition of transatlantic supper clubs – in a long conical glass, always chilled and garnished with a green olive-esque morsel. Available on a spirited base of either vodka or gin, it’s a surprisingly mellow evocation of a beverage that’s frequently typecast as boozy, bone-dry denouement. Rossi says that this recipe, incorporating two kinds of Mancino Vermouth (aromatised wine produced by adding botanicals to a base of Trebbiano) and wakamomo mountain peaches, is an “evolution” of the classic Martini, one that accommodates the distinctive preferences of Hong Kong’s local drinking culture. “Nowadays, many people are looking for something that’s less unhealthy and low ABV. Aside from its lower alcohol content, our Vs Vesper utilises a range of ingredients that mellow out and balance the entire flavour profile. It’s a lighter drinking experience, with floral notes and a texture closer to the wetter side of the palette.”
The success of the Vs Vesper does, of course, track with the Martini’s well-earned reputation for versatility. Sherry, amaro, pickled onions: time and time again, the basic equation of ‘gin plus vermouth’ has a way of reconciling cameo ingredients with surprisingly scrumptious results. “That’s why it’s so underrated,” says Rossi.
“As a category, there are few drinks better for showcasing lesser -known liquors, because of the outsized way in which these impact the strength, structure, or complexity of the basic recipe.” For discerning types on either side of the bar, the Martini’s potentially infinite variability – actuated by no more than a slight tweak in the proportion of gin, vermouth, or ice – has often made it the subject of fairly detailed scrutiny. Back on Hong Kong Island, in the belly of the financial district, drinkers will find Kyle & Bain, an intimate alcove that seats no more than 20, where the entire beverage programme (notwithstanding one or two curveballs) reads like Martini-fuelled Magna Carta.
Opened by award-winning Seattleite bartender John Nugent, who’s also behind Asia’s No 20 bar, The Diplomat, it feels – to put it mildly – like the sort of establishment that’s long overdue in Hong Kong. Dismayed by the absence of bars capable of whipping up anything more than a tepid Appletini, Nugent took matters into his own hands (with an assist from local hospitality group Leading Nation), culminating in a space where the “golden age” of the Martini remains well and truly alive. “Among the cocktail community, Martinis have always been a fixture,” says Nugent, “but within broader popular culture they gradually became this kind of abused, overly diluted drink. Many of our customers responded warmly to the idea of a bar that would challenge those misconceptions. At the same time, we were becoming acutely aware that what Hong Kong lacked was a place where drinkers could discover a wide assortment of Martini-style recipes, ranging from forgotten classics to modern interpretations.”
Each section of Kyle & Bain’s menu is inspired by the various “building blocks” comprising a classic American Martini. Essentially a four-act structure, cocktails pivot around spirits, vermouth, ice, soigné (the so-called “special element” that really ties a drink together, as Nugent explains) or some combination thereof. Start on a reassuringly strong note with the Gimlet: a boozy yet balanced number, located in the Spirits chapter of the menu. The recipe traditionally calls for equal parts gin and lime juice; on top of which Nugent shepherds in complementary flavours of genever, mastiha (a herbal liqueur originating on the Greek island of Chios) and a “salad cordial’ made by flavouring the eponymous preparation with leeks, cucumber and a variety of other bright, crunchy vegetables. Round, refreshing, yet also mouth-wateringly savoury, it adds a distinctly culinary facet to the Martini’s already-manifold personality.
Turn the page, and you’ll be greeted by the Vermouth section. Unlike the previous spirit-inspired chapter, this part consists of drinks that are driven by mellower, low-ABV ingredients. “That doesn’t necessarily mean they all must include vermouth,” says Nugent, “but it’s a catch-all we use to describe our lighter-drinking cocktails – those utilising aperitifs and fortified wines”. The pithily named Just Grapes is a helpful example. A tipple of Nugent’s own invention, it’s built on a base of two spirits – gin and Armagnac – then stirred over ice with verjus and Lillet Blanc (a fairly typical aromatised wine, made by blending Bordeaux grapes together with citrus liqueur). For good measure, a handful of muscat is garnished prior to serving, hammering home the drink’s essential qualities with the aid of a simple visual flourish. Semi-sweet, balanced and on occasion fruit-forward, these are – for lack of a better phrase – another excellent “gateway drug” to the realm of stiffly made cocktails.
In conversation with devotees like Rossi and Nugent, it’s clear then that the Martini remains a rich, somewhat underrated seam for innovation, just waiting to be mined. As always, the million-dollar question is whether such labours will produce a comeback that lasts; or whether the drinking public will simply lose interest and hurry on to the next thing. For a barman like Nugent, who’s staked much of Kyle & Bain’s reputation on the Martini’s inexhaustible possibilities, Hongkongers’ proven appetite for “simple things, done well” – whether we’re speaking of tuna temaki or a Tuxedo No 2 – gives him no small measure of confidence.
“I think that at any bar striving for excellence, it’s our job to guide customers into the same world that we ourselves have derived so much valuable experience and pleasure from. Even if you’re not ‘into’ the classic dry Martini, we have the elements to make something that’s going to be delicious, approachable and unlikely to alienate you.” The Martini: a beverage for the people, by the people. Now there’s a thought.
(Hero image: Kyle & Bain’s signature martini)
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5 of The Best Bars in Hong Kong to Return to From Today
The reopening of Hong Kong's bars and pubs, with new measures such as maximum table seatings of four, has been met with great anticipation. Us included. In response, we've gathered five of our favourite cocktail bars that we are excited to return to and sip on that well-deserved drink.
The Old Man
As Asia's number one bar (according to Asia's 50 Best Bars list), The Old Man is considered the hero of Hong Kong's bar scene, and for good reason. The Ernest Hemmingway-inspired speakeasy offers some of the best cocktails we've tried, thanks to top mixologist Agung Prabowo. My cocktail of choice --A Moveable Feast #1964-- is resplendent with flavours of the sea with consommé-esque characteristics I could never say no to. The bar itself is an intimate space with handsome qualities throughout.
The Old Man, Lower G/F, 37 Aberdeen Street, SoHo, Central, Hong Kong; +852 2703 1899
DarkSide
Not only was the Rosewood one of Hong Kong’s top luxury hotel openings of 2019, but they also opened one of the city’s best new bars; DarkSide. An homage to Kowloon’s fondly-known moniker, the bar also dedicates itself to a selection of dark spirits including some rather rare labels of rum, whiskey, calvados, cognac and more. In addition, the concise but stellar cocktail list goes down extremely well with the live jazz sessions. There are also vintage cigars and an array of dark chocolates and snacks to pair with your beverage of choice.
DarkSide, 2/F Rosewood Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui; +852 3891 8732
Tell Camellia
Inspired by our beloved beverages of tea and cocktails, it’s no wonder we frequent this somewhat hidden bar. Tucked away in Central’s H Code building, Tell Camellia is the drinking den that satisfies both cravings. It’s also headed by bartender and industry experts Sandeep Hathiramani and Gagan Gurung, so you can be sure that you are in safe hands. Meanwhile the menu showcases a rotating list of Teatails and T&Tonics, which either blends tea in the cocktails or uses tea redistilled with gin.
Tell Camellia, H Code, 45 Pottinger Street, Central; +852 9821 5501
The St. Regis Bar
Another luxury hotel The St. Regis Hong Kong opened in 2019, there was one particular thing — other than the stunning André Fu-designed suites — we were all excited to visit; The St. Regis Bar. Thankfully, it did not disappoint. Quite the contrary, it exceeded many of our expectations and offered us some solid, and rather spirited, cocktails that we were happy to sip on. The St. Regis’ signature service is also apparent and makes for an indulgent evening of cocktail drinking.
The St. Regis Bar, 2/F The St. Regis Hong Kong, 1 Harbour Drive, Wan Chai; +852 2138 6800
The Diplomat
We are definitely heading back to this speakeasy pub concept by acclaimed mixologist John Nugent for all the fun and flavourful cocktails they offer, not to mention the impressive pub grub we sampled too. The space, which feels like a hidden gem, is worth visiting for a pre/post/or any time drink with favourites including the signature pandan-infused Tarling cocktail, clarified English milk punch and super indulgent Irish coffee.
The Diplomat, LG/F, High Block, H Code, 45 Pottinger Street, Central; +852 3619 0302
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Top 10 New Year’s Eve Parties in Hong Kong
With the decade coming to an end, you'll want to ring in 2020 in style. If you're still looking for places to countdown, we've got you covered and picked out some of the best New Year’s Eve parties in Hong Kong to make sure 2020 starts on a high.
Carbone
Carbone’s NYE party is for those who are looking to enjoy Motown music as well as their well-known meatballs. The Italian restaurant is offering two packages; the Classico (HK$1,988) includes food and drink as well as free-flow prosecco. For a little bit more, the Superior (HK$2,388) package includes food and drink, and free-flow Champagne. The party starts at 9PM and goes until 1:30AM.
Carbone, 9/F, LKF Tower, 33 Wyndham Street, Central; +852 2593 2593
ALTO
Located on the 31st floor of the V Point Tower in Causeway Bay, ALTO is a great option if you’re looking for a spot with great views. Their Black & Gold New Year’s Eve Gala Fireworks Dinner is HK$788 per person and offers a four-course meal. The theme of the event is, you guessed it, black and gold. So be sure to dress for the occasion.
ALTO, 31/F, V Point, 18 Tang Lung Street, Causeway Bay; +852 2603 7181
Zuma
Zuma has become sort of a constitution when it comes to counting down in Hong Kong. With a masquerade theme in place, guests will be able to enjoy free-flow Veuve Clicquot Champagne, specialty cocktails, red and white wine, beer, and soft drinks. DJ Emmanuel Diaz will be playing tunes all night accompanied by live performances.
Zuma, Level 5&6 Landmark Atrium, 15 Queen's Road Central, Central; +852 2657 6388
La Rambla by Catalunya
Walk the red-carpet at La Rambla’s NYE event. The ‘A Red Carpet Affair’ theme will have you feeling like a celebrity while you enjoy the free-flow bar and a special New Year’s Eve curated tasting menu all the while enjoying unrivalled views of the iconic Victoria Harbour. Packages start at HK$700 for general entry (includes three hours of free-flow drinks and two food tickets); $750 for a walk-in ticket; $2,020 for dinner and party package (includes tasting menu and free-flow drinks). If you’re not going out for NYE, La Rambla is also offering a New Year’s Day brunch menu (HK$650).
La Rambla by Catalunya, 3071-73 Level 3, ifc mall, 8 Finance Street, Central; 2661 1161
Popinjays
If you’re looking to countdown at Popinjays, you have various options to choose from. A general ticket is HK$1,488 and includes free-flow drinks (from 9:30PM to 3AM and Champagne from 11:30PM to 12:30AM), while an early bird ticket is HK$1,288. If you’re a party of four, a table package will set you back HK$7,880 and includes free-flow drinks. A New Year’s Day brunch is also on offer for HK$698 (from 12:15 pm to 2:15 pm, and 2:30 pm to 4:30 pm), so plan ahead.
Popinjays, 22 Cotton Tree Drive, Central; +852 3141 8888
Potato Head
Dance the night away at Potato Head. The multi-concept space will have an array of DJs and artists playing music all night long, so be sure to wear comfortable shoes. For HK$600, you’ll be able to enjoy free-flow from 10PM to midnight. For HK$1,100, you’ll be able to enjoy their dinner menu and free-flow drinks.
Tickets here.
Potato Head, 100 Third Street, Sai Ying Pun; +852 2858 6066
Soho House
Soho House is hosting a 'Midnight in Monte Carlo' themed party. Wear your finest black-tie attire to ring in the new year with the grandeur of Monte Carlo. Try your hand at blackjack or roulette, or slip into the high roller’s room as you sip on Grey Goose cocktails. If you're in the gambling spirit, there will be high roller game rooms with prizes including a complimentary stay for two at Upper House Hong Kong. To cap it all off, a Möet Champagne vending machine will be available.
Soho House, 33 Des Voeux Road West, Sheung Wan; +852 5803 8888
DarkSide
Countdown to 2020 at one of Hong Kong's newest bars, DarkSide. On New Year’s Eve, guests can look forward to caviar and Krug Champagne packages, VIP table bookings and live entertainment to truly define merrymaking from 8PM until 2AM. You will also be able to enjoy jazz music with their new performer Deborah Davis. Email hongkong.darkside@rosewoodhotels.com or ring them up to secure your reservation.
DarkSide, Rosewood Hong Kong Victoria Dockside, 18 Salisbury Rord, Tsim Sha Tsui; +852 3891 8732
Ophelia
Escape to Le Grand Hotel Ophelia NYE 2019 party. Ophelia will be back for another immersive celebration for New Year’s Eve, bringing a fashionable ode of old vintage glamour, luxury diamonds, and pearls, Champagne and more. Expect appearances from international performers behind the doors of Le Grande Hotel Ophelia, and live music. Did we mention that entry is free? All you have to do is RSVP and adhere to their 'Vintage Glam' dress code.
Ophelia, Shop F39A & F41A, 1/F, Lee Tung Avenue, 200 Queen's Road East, Wan Chai; +852 2520 1117
G.H Mumm Party
To celebrate the beginning of the new decade, G.H. Mumm has partnered with The Rooms in Tai Kwun to host their Countdown Dinner & Party. Guests are invited to enjoy a gastronomic 3-course dining experience with free-flow Mumm Grand Cordon Champagne, RSRV & Spirit at 9PM for HK$1,800. For those who would like to go straight to the countdown party, a ticket costs HK$800 and includes free-flow Mumm Grand Cordon Champagne and Spirit until midnight. For tickets, email info@therooms.hk.
The Rooms, 10 Hollywood Road, Central
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The Drinks List: 7 Fresh Fruit & Vegetable-Based Cocktails
Summer is fast approaching; with it comes extra doses of vitamin D -- at least when the sun’s out.
But what happens when the clouds come in or rain comes down? Luckily, adulthood gives us plenty of options to drink our vitamins and so here we are, with the seven best fruit-forward and vegetable-based cocktails to quench your healthy thirst.
Cocktail #1 at The Sea by The Old Man
Fronted by the same bar heroes behind Asia’s 50 Best Bars 2019 winner -- The Old Man, founders Agung Prabowo, James Tamang and Roman Ghaleopen have officially opened the doors to their spin-off concept The Sea in Sheung Wan. Similar to its sister venue, the bar and its cocktails continue to pay homage to celebrated literary figure Ernest Hemingway. Our pick for The Drinks List is Cocktail #1. It’s a favourite of Head Bartender Agung Prabowo and uses umami-enhancing seaweed gin as its base mixed with a sweet, sour and lightly carbonated lacto-fermented pineapple, topped with soda made from bones.
The Sea by The Old Man, 2 Po Yan Street, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong; +852 2307 0030
Salad Imposter at Dragonfly
A twist on the classic caprese salad, which is usually made with mozzarella, tomatoes, and basil, the Salad imposter is the refreshing and nutritious cocktail solution to summer. Those who sample this veg-forward cocktail can expect pleasantly savoury flavours made possible by parmesan-infused Gin Mare, fresh plum tomatoes, basil, citrus and hints of sharp and sweet notes from peach vinaigrette. It is served with a seasoned mozzarella garnish to guarantee that you get your daily dose.
Dragonfly, Shop 10 - G1, Tai Kwun, 10 Hollywood Road, Central, Hong Kong; +852 2777 2633
Pandan + Lychee Daiquiri at Armoury
Located in the former officer’s armoury and store at Tai Kwun, the Armoury is a bar that sits in the cool shade of a mango tree on the historic parade ground. It gets seriously busy, thanks to its semi-alfresco layout. But if you can brave the crowds to grab a seat in the open-air, then sit back and sip on their (Thai) take on a daiquiri, made with pandan and lychee. Using Chalong Bay rum from Phuket, the easy-to-drink cocktail is lightly sweetened with lychee and fragrant with the aroma of pandan leaves.
Armoury, G/F Armoury Building, Tai Kwun, 10 Hollywood Road, Central, Hong Kong; +852 2703 9111
77 Wells at DarkSide
Named after the colloquial moniker for Kowloon, DarkSide is an equally dark but atmospheric bar that sits inside the new Rosewood Hotel in Tsim Sha Tsui. Here, 90% of the spirits are dark too, along with the rich dark chocolate it comes paired with. We opted for something more cooling, and thus our cocktail of choice was 77 Wells. The drink pays homage to the number of wells there were in the old walled city of Kowloon, and uses Mancino vermouth bianco and yuzu sake, tempered by a jasmine tea kombucha and peppered with cubeb.
DarkSide, Rosewood Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon; +852 3891 8732
Shiso G&T at Dai Bing
The classic gin and tonic is (in my opinion) the ideal drink for summertime sipping, and its thirst-quenching abilities are given a little vegetal lift with shiso at Hong Kong’s artisanal ice suite Dai Bing. Made with Spanish crafted London Dry Gin, Cortese pure tonic water and the herbaceous Japanese leaf, the Shiso G&T is poured over a single, crystal clear ice block that melts slowly for a longer lasting cocktail. That’ll be why their name means “big ice” in Cantonese then.
Dai Bing, 52 Bonham Strand West, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong; +852 9838 4438
Green Canto Mary at The St. Regis Bar
As each St. Regis around the world offers its own custom Bloody Mary, the Hong Kong property has given its own a Cantonese twist. Using dried tangerine peel, soy sauce and a mix of Chinese five-spice, the Canto Mary is a well-seasoned cocktail with an added whisky punch that will likely wake up any tired soul. There are also three variations available -- a red, yellow and green base -- that use tomatoes from Côte d’Azur, the southeast corner of France. While the red Canto Mary is strong and aromatic, and the yellow is on the sweet side, the winner is green as it has the perfect amount of savoury notes and a crisp twang that goes so well with the live jazz band.
The St. Regis Bar, 2/F, The St. Regis Hong Kong, 1 Harbour Drive, Wan Chai, Hong Kong; +852 2138 6888
VEA Lounge
If you’re one for quirky concoctions then VEA Lounge might be your best bet, what with resident mixologist Antonio Lai leading the charge for unconventional cocktails. This season is no different, and Lai looks to Hong Kong’s casual cafes (cha chaan teng) for his inspiration and ingredients. One such creation is Kumquat, a vibrant cocktail of London dry gin, oleo-saccharum (the rich flavoured sugar-oil mixture), citric acid solution and the bright citrus tang of fresh kumquats and lemon. The cocktail also comes with a kumquat lolly to mix it up with another texture as your drink.
VEA Lounge, 29/F, 198 Wellington Street, Central, Hong Kong; +852 2711 8639
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