Celebrity Life
Fabrizio Fiorani, Asiaās Best Pastry Chef 2019, Tells Us About Chocolate, Cake and Lobsters, Too
It's not every day that you get to enjoy desserts created by Asia's Best Pastry Chef. So when esteemed pastry chef Fabrizio Fiorani flew in for a special masterclass that would see him serving up his signature pastries, we jumped at the opportunity to have a taste of his sweet creations.
Held at Hong Kong's own Italian trattoria CIAK ā In the Kitchen, the masterclass was sponsored by Acqua Panna and Valrhona. During the class,Ā Fiorani demonstrated not only his unique creativity in patisserie, but also the Italians' signature warm nature. Visually striking and spectacular to taste, his desserts came first before we sat down to find out what he's been up to since winning the prestigious title and leavingĀ Il Ristorante Luca Fantin at Bulgari Hotel in Japan.
Ā
What have you been up to since leaving Japan?
Iām back in Rome. Iām sleeping [and Iām based] there for a few days a week as Iām always travelling and consulting, doing masterclasses and special collaborations. Even in the last 20 days or so, Iāve been in Japan for one week, Singapore for one week and now one week here in Hong Kong. So Iām travelling here and there, but I go back to sleep in Rome.
Ā
How would you personally describe your pastry style?
Itās Italian. The flavour is pure Italian. But the style is my own -- Fabrizio FioraniĀ style.
[caption id="attachment_154272" align="alignnone" width="1613"] Tiramisu Glasses: the coffee-flavoured glasses (or biscuits) perch on a red plastic nose and come with mascarpone cream covered with a delicate layer of chocolate.[/caption]
Youāve worked at some of the worldās most renowned Michelin-starred restaurants. But was there a restaurant that left a long-lasting impression on you?
All of them gave and left me with something. Technique, human power, everything.Ā I won the title [Asiaās Best Pastry Chef 2019] at IlĀ Ristorante Luca Fantin. I became the best when I was there, so that will stay with me. But my team was, and still is, my best memory of the five years I spent in Japan.
Ā
Who has been your biggest influence?
My parents. They taught me how to eat good food. And if you want to cook good food, you need to eat good food. This is very important -- they taught me this.Ā For pastry, my biggest influenceā¦ Pierre HermĆ©. When you enter the boutique, Iām always speechless. Everything is just wow.
Ā
Do you have a favourite dessert?
Of course, itās the tiramisu [glasses]. As for anyone elseāsā¦ Pierre HermĆ© makes this dessert [the Tarte Infiniment Vanille] with different kinds of vanilla [from Madagascar, Mexico, and Tahiti]. Itās unbelievable and one of the best things that Iāve eaten in my life. Another is a very beautiful cake make by Japanese pastry chef [Norihiko] Terai [of Aigre Douce in Tokyo]. Terai-sanās vanilla cake is crazy too, itās so pure!
Ā
I heard you started working in a gelato shop at 14 years old. Is that where your love for pastry started?
Gelato is the entry level of pastry. You start to touch [and use] ingredients like egg yolk, cream and chocolate. Then after the gelato, youāll want some cookies and biscuits. So this was my way in. Thatās where it all started, with gelato.
[caption id="attachment_154271" align="alignnone" width="4928"] Raspberry Splash: Fiorani uses a magnetic stencil to paint a raspberry image on a white chocolate disc, which conceals a triple layer of raspberry confections.[/caption]
What are your favourite ingredients to use?
You know, I donāt do anything for fashion or for Instagram. I donāt like kiwi, so I never make anything with kiwi. I rarely drink alcohol, so I only use a small quantity of alcohol. A little gin with chocolate maybe. But I make desserts as if I was the customer. I only create what I love myself. If I donāt like it, I wouldnāt give it to my customers.
I love using chocolate. Itās dangerous to leave chocolate with me [he points to the chocolate wrappers heās left on the table]. I love milk chocolate. For example, for the tiramisu glasses, I use this chocolate, [Valhornaās] Bahibe LactĆ©e, from Santo Domingo, with high cocoa content at 46%. Milk chocolate with a touch of bitterness is just unbelievable -- it balances everything.
Ā
Some of your creations have been described as āhumorousā. Do you agree and if so, why do you do that?
With a smile, you release the tension of the mind. Take the tiramisu glasses [for example], you take a selfie and all your attention is on the dessert. Itās not on your phone or your drink, or your previous main course, itās all on the dessert. I want people to smile and have fun with my desserts. We need to give happiness, not sadness, to the people. Thatās my job. I cannot save the world with dessert, but I can give 20 minutes of happiness to the people.
Ā
Is that why you decided to be a pastry chef?
Yes. Ask me to make pasta with tomato. I cannot, Iām not able to do it. Dessert is my thing.
[caption id="attachment_154273" align="alignnone" width="1433"] Fioraniās vision and technique earned him the title of Asiaās Best Pastry Chef 2019.[/caption]
Do you think you really are Asiaās best pastry chef?
My first fan is me. But every night before I go to bed, I always ask [myself], āCan you can do it? Maybe yes, maybe no?ā But thatās OK, itās important to feel uncomfortable. If you feel comfortable, like on this chair Iām sitting on, you cannot make nice things. You need to be uncomfortable to create. Think about a lobster, it can grow for infinity. Why? Because every time it grows, it will change its shell and grow again. Itās not comfortable to stay in the same shell. So in order to grow, you need to be uncomfortable.
Ā
Where do you get your inspiration?
Pastry is important in my life, but itās not everything. There are movies, shows, books and people. There are a lot of things I take inspiration from. Food is a small part of it. But there are so many places to find it. For example, the glasses [for the tiramisu] were made for Massimo [Bottura, the celebrated Italian chef of the three-Michelin-sttared Osteria Francescana]. I was inspired by him and created that.
Ā
Have you tried any Chinese desserts while youāve been in Hong Kong?
I had dinner at China Tang and the duck was unbelievable. But for dessert we had the mango and pomelo sago, which was lovely. Maybe one day I will do something that incorporates these flavours; I can do this with mango and tapioca, why not!
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