Celebrity Life
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R. Sandersonâs Exacting Take on Luxury Footwear and Fine Art
Bertrand Mak is giving all the shoes displayed in the presentation of Alke, his new athletically inspired shoe collection, the once-over with an air pump. No shoe goes uninspected, whether itâs on a high shelf or artfully perched on one of the pillars placed around the exhibition space.
To say Mak is an aesthete is to only acknowledge a fraction of what compels him -- from his appreciation for art and craft to his unrelenting quest for perfection. Having pivoted from a career in watches to setting up R. Sanderson, originally an Asian offshoot of English shoe brand Rupert Sanderson, but now owned outright by the Hong Kong-based entrepreneur, he attributes the journey to his attention to detail.
âIâve never imagined myself as someone who could do this,â says Mak. âMy obsession is watches. The cogs and screws are so minuscule, and you have to strive for perfection because otherwise the mechanism wonât be able to last. So I think Iâve brought that mentality into what Iâm creating here. Itâs that obsession with detail and trying not to overlook the smallest of details.â
[caption id="attachment_165157" align="alignnone" width="960"] Bertrand Mak, Owner of R. Sanderson[/caption]
Reception to R. Sanderson has been enthusiastic and the brand now has stores in Beijing and Taipei alongside two locations in Hong Kong. At the Landmark boutique, itâs normal to see groups of women begin trickling in at around quarter past noon and then, within 30 minutes, itâs at full capacity with crowd control in place. As some customers wait outside, those inside are looking for new styles, new colours and, more often than not, R. Sandersonâs greatest draw, new pebbles (pieces of smooth, rounded nickel that adorn the vamp) to ornament their existing pairs of shoes.
âHong Kong people are very open minded and theyâre very open to new brands and new designs, but in the beginning we didnât really have a signature, so I fastened on to that,â Mak says. âItâs something thatâs so essential to a luxury brand, having uniqueness, and by chance I met a number of artists who did gold-leaf painting and I really pushed this idea of using gold leaf as a signature on the heel, because for heels the heel is really the soul of the shoe. So I pushed that through and it became the backbone of our business.â
Having established the signature heel, another characteristic element of the shoes is the pebble, which as well as coming with each pair are also sold separately (as a pair). Mak has invited artisans and craftsmen from countries such as Japan and Germany to turn each set into works of art, inspired perhaps by Chinese brushwork or Andy Warholâs Shadow series (of which Mak just happens to own one set).
âThe way I look at our creations, theyâre not really shoes,â he says. âTheyâre objects of art. I hope I can better demonstrate that through our new charms and boxes, which seem more like art pieces than the shoes. But ultimately itâs about a jewel, the placement of the pebble, which I always have to underscore is not flat, so it takes a lot of skill to lacquer or work on the surface. Then thereâs the heel and how we work with artisans.â
[caption id="attachment_165158" align="alignnone" width="853"] A Zohiko lacquerware artist works on a pebble.[/caption]
For his different pebble collections, Mak has scoured the world for artisans, recruiting German glass makers to provide the âdiamond dustâ thatâs unique to the Shadow collection and replicating Warholâs own technique to achieve the glitter effect. âEvery Tom, Dick and Harry uses Swarovski crystals and strass because thatâs the easiest answer to bling,â says Mak, âbut Iâve always wanted to stay away from it because itâs tiring and itâs not innovative.â
Thanks to what he describes as âa long and passionate emailâ, Mak also secured a long-term partnership withcraftsmen in Japan, whose gold-leafing technique stretchesback to 1661. It also transpires that some of the best gold-leafing craftsmen are right here in Hong Kong, all of whom, Mak says, are working on his shoes.
âI want to be able to provide a platform for this and I want to be a part of preserving this craft so that it doesnât get lost,â Mak says. âA lot of techniques have been lost and Iâm not talking about gold leafing alone. Iâm talking about, for example, watchmaking, the way we make bags, doing etch stains. I could go on, but my vision is to create something that can bring together artisans and unsung heroes and not only respect the elements and heritage of the craft but to innovate from it as well.â
The gold-leafing technique used by the brand, forexample, was invented in-house. âGold leaf is thinner than paper, you know,â Mak says. âAnd if you polish it, it will tear. So the question was, how to polish it to a stage where we achieve that mirror effect without tearing the gold leaf. Thatâs something that we invented in-house by trial and error, and discovering techniques with constant failure along the way.â
[caption id="attachment_165162" align="alignnone" width="1024"] The RS Alphabet collection.[/caption]
This is especially impressive when looking at the progression of the pebbles in the Ink collection. The Japanese artisans that Mak persuaded to work with him have elevated their technique from the first series, where they lacquered and gilded the pebble to mimic brushstrokes. A bicolour gold and gloss finish was used for the second series, while the third Ink series introduces even more depth -- and now, the pebbles of the fourth series contain more than 30 layers of lacquer and gold leaf.
âYou have to really admire it in the flesh, to see the incredible depth and different layers of ink, gold leaf and lacquer,â Mak says. Even the craftsmen are impressed with what theyâve been able to achieve, thanks to Makâs insistence. âThe layering technique that our Japanese craftsmen are doing for us is something that theyâve never done in 300 years. What weâve created here is lacquer that contains a translucent red hue,â Mak says. âItâs almost like enamel and they only did it through a mistake that weâve now learnt to control.â
From the moment he asked his Italian manufacturer to add an inbuilt rubber sole into each pair of heels, Mak has been told time and again that realising his vision was an impossibility. âMany people have told me no,â he says.âTheyâve told me, âYou canât do it as someone from Hong Kong,â âYou canât be in Landmark,â and âYou canât work with artisans from Japan whoâve been in the business for three centuries, they wouldnât entertain your request.ââ
[caption id="attachment_165156" align="alignnone" width="754"] The Alke flat with customisable laces and tongues.[/caption]
Even the Alke collection can be seen as a response to naysayers. âThe collection is, of course, shoes but in a design language of sports and athletics. Everyone told me that this wasnât the answer. The answer instead was an ugly, faddy sneaker,â Mak says. âBut you know, I found that really repulsive and something I honestly couldnât force myself to make, so thatâs how the slogans [for customers to personalise their laces with] came to be -- âBe Braveâ, âTrust Yourselfâ, and âBelieve in the Extraordinaryâ. They really ring true in my mind and theyâve guided me throughout my journey.â
The post R. Sandersonâs Exacting Take on Luxury Footwear and Fine Art appeared first on Prestige Online - Hong Kong.
Takashi Murakamiâs First Pair of Sneakers Were Inspired by a Legendary Japanese Cartoon
Loro Pianaâs New 360LP Walk Sneakers Hit the Streets of Hong Kong
Soft, comfortable, stylish and oh-so-incredibly light are just some of the terms to describe Loro Pianaâs latest offering: a new version of their very popular 360LP Walk sneakers. Named aptly in recognition of their amazing weight â they weigh only 360 grams â these shoes are currently available in exclusive colours in China, Hong Kong and Macau.
In these special edition colours, the sneakers come in men's and women's variation, as well as a unisex version. A striking splash of red trimming marks each pair of shoes, with the detailing taking on a more pronounced character in the womenâs version. The unisex pair sits apart in a light dove grey colour, with a subtle red-coloured rim wrapping around the ankle.
As in all creations by a luxury brand such as Loro Piana, what sets these sneakers apart is their exquisite material and technical craftsmanship. Made of the brand's signature material of exceptionally superior and ultra-soft Merino wool, sourced especially from Australia and New Zealand, the sneakers boast a particularly noticeable level of flexibility and has a spring-like stretch that adds substantially to the comfort level. This is possible mainly because of the special supple properties of the fabric that allows it to conform to the shape of the wearerâs foot. The use of wool also acts as an additional function as the natural breathability of the wool ensures a degree of cool dryness, even in warm climates like Hong Kong's.
The unique construction has been carefully designed to complement the materials used. The intricately knitted woollen upper, crafted in the labelâs manufacturing mill in Italy, envelops the foot for a smooth and snug fit. The thick, slightly raised sole, meanwhile, provides appropriate cushioning below, along with a non-slip texture at the sole. Loro Piana artisans manually assemble the rest of the components such as the leather trimming and red colour accents for the ultimate shoe, exclusively available on this side of the globe.
A perfect blend of contemporary fashion and practical usability, Loro Pianaâs 360LP Walk sneakers are ideal for both casual as well as athletic wear. All you need to do is get walking.
[gallery ids="159333,159332,159331,159330"]
Apart from the Hong Kong, Macau and China exclusive, the Loro Piana 360LP also comes in a variety of colours available globally.
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For more information, visit loropiana.com.
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Meet the Emerging English Shoe Brand Making Insanely Comfortable Belgian Loafers
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10 Summer Sandals We Love Right Now
Sunâs out, toes out -- with pedicures poised and at the ready, of course. From relaxed slides for city excursions to lightweight thongs for the beach, stiletto heels for nights out and chunky platforms for a '90s comeback, weâve rounded up our top easy breezy footwear for all occasions this summer. Here are 10 sandals we love this summer.
The post 10 Summer Sandals We Love Right Now appeared first on Prestige Online - Hong Kong.
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These Are the Belgian Loafers Every Gentleman Should Have in His Wardrobe
For many gents, the Belgian loafer may appear old-fashioned, impractical and antiquated, but we'd beg you to reconsider. That's because these days, there's a new breed of loafers that you can sport, a hybrid which resurrects the famed Belgian shoes favoured by the likes of Bernie Madoff, and fuses it with a new sensibility. For a bit of old-school style that's sure to become a favourite in your shoe collection, check out these Belgian loafers that reflect some thoughtful tweaks to the original's shape and construction, yielding supreme style and unparalleled comfort.
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Rubinacci
[caption id="attachment_153173" align="alignnone" width="960"] Rubinacci. Image: Mr Porter[/caption]
Hailed by some as the king of Neapolitan tailoring, the house of Rubinacci has produced and sold iterations of the Marphy suede tasselled loafer for years. Whilst this model is the most traditional and similar to the original Belgian shoes in shape, the choices of materials and finishings rarely are. Set yourself apart in a sea of black shoes by opting for this beautiful, soft brown option which is offset by lush and unexpected teal trimmings. These will pair well with vibrant trousers, as well as more sombre navy or beige outfits -- versatility is the name of the game. And if you're looking for some styling inspiration, look no further than the Instagram account of Luca Rubinacci himself (@luca_rubinacci).
Available on mrporter.com for approximately HK$3,200.Â
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Baudoin and Lange
[caption id="attachment_153172" align="alignnone" width="2000"] Baudoin & Lange x The Armoury[/caption]
The brainchild of Allan Baudoin and Bo van Langeveld, the Sagan model by Baudoin and Lange spearheaded the movement towards more comfortable Belgian-style loafers featuring a lowered vamp and buttery soft suede. The loafer is available in a vast variety of colours, materials and styles, including plain, tassels or string. Available at The Armoury, we'd suggest that you purchase one size smaller than usual so that the incredibly soft leather or suede can mould to your feet over time. An added bonus is that each pair sold at The Armoury is fitted with a rubber sole grip -- at no additional cost -- ensuring that the shoe will be able to stand up to the hilly streets of Hong Kong. Prices range from HK$3,200â$3,500.
The Armoury Landmark, B47 Landmark Central, 15 Queenâs Road Central, Central; +852 2810 4990
The Armoury Pedder, 307 Pedder Building, 12 Pedder Street, Central; +852 2804 6991
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Berwick
[caption id="attachment_153181" align="alignnone" width="939"] Berwick at Leather Healer[/caption]
To round out the list, Leather Healer offers an option made in collaboration with Spanish shoemaker Berwick. This option is offered in several different shades of suede, ranging from black, brown to snuff (lighter brown), and in two configurations: plain and a âpennyâ style. Of the three shoemakers, this shoe has the stiffest construction, providing more structure to withstand the cobbled steps of Hong Kong. Try the penny style, which features a full strap over the upper to differentiate yourself from the pack. This iteration takes cues from the modern Belgian shoe and meshes it with the traditional styling of an Ivy League staple. The owner of Leather Healer, Wayne, is usually present in the shop to help with sizing and styling advice. A pair of Berwicks will set you back HK$1,880.
Leather Healer, 304 Hong Kong House, 17 - 19 Wellington Street, Central; +852 2577 0207
Leather Healer, 3/F, 17 Cameron Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, +852 2577 0207
The post These Are the Belgian Loafers Every Gentleman Should Have in His Wardrobe appeared first on Prestige Online - Hong Kong.