Celebrity Life
New-Season Collections Are Stacked With Amazing Knitwear
New York Fashion Week: 5 Trends we Loved From the Spring/Summer 2022 Shows
Welcome back, New York Fashion Week!
We were all kind, all optimistic and all armoured with very nice words about the virtual reality existence that fashion brands and their shows have surrendered to in the past year-or-so. The excitement and sweet, sweet sincerity about the return of runways; the return of a real-life audience; the return of after-parties, however, make it quite clear: there's nothing like a show experienced in real-time, in-person. The runway looks certainly did not disappoint in the few days counting down to the also-revived Met Gala — it was the bold, the brash and the beatific that led the way. Understandably. For the joy — the fun! — in clothes; in the institution, the designers, the people that keep this industry alive.
Below, just a handful of trends we saw, loved and can't wait to wear.
Trend #1: Hey, Your Bra's Showing
Call it merely an evolution of the Gen Z-staple cropped top, or call it a sartorial repercussion derived from our inability to extract limbs from the things we choose to wear (or not wear) as we amble around the house. Whatever you wish, underwear as outerwear — be it a bralette-adjacent top or corset-inspired tank complete with strips of boning anchored from ribcage to hipbone — was a ubiquitous sight across Spring/Summer 2022 shows, from Michael Kors’ opening look à la a red-lipped Kendall Jenner, to the triangle variations tucked beneath dopamine-bright cardigans at Coach.
Trend #2: Wallflowers Need Not Apply
There’s a healthy modicum of responsibility that comes with making entrances in full-body paillettes worn like an armour; like sheaths of chainmail donned pre-battle. The kind plated and sparkling at TOM FORD, encasing neither bodycon nor the genre of gowns you’d expect drifting along a long stretch of scarlet-red carpet. Instead, they’re embellishing everyday silhouettes. The tank top. The ribbed-knit. The basics rendered very much not so this season. On the topic of OTT designs, there were, too, an abundance of feathers at Prabal Gurung; top-to-toe satin at Christian Siriano; very fringed separates at Proenza Schouler. A season of fashion that’s all joy, all deep breaths and all — damn it, look at me.
Trend #3: Strapped In
The area extending from the crown of your head to your décolletage? Prime real estate. It's the space with the most screen time on FaceTime. On Zoom. On whatever chat applications you use to maintain some sort of truncated connection with long-distance friends, lovers and relatives. To keep those fair few inches interesting, Jonathan Simkhai makes a case for a very strappy yoke. Eckhaus Latta headlined with strips of the ribbed-knit fabric anchored at the armscye, tumbling past the upper arms. Maryam Nassir Zadeh, too, with spaghetti string-ties all asymmetric; then, layered; then, knotted and tethered across the shoulders like webbing.
Trend #4: Crafty
While you were collecting supplies for tie-dye, beaded necklaces and knitting and embroidery and crochet last summer, you’d be remiss not to imagine your favourite designers with the same knee-jerk inclination. Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough of Proenza Schouler made way for Kauai, for example, and sent their swishy, fringed designs down the runway with handmade leis from Maui. Joseph Altuzarra celebrated his NYC homecoming with shibori-dyed separates on a runway opened by none other than new-mother Gigi Hadid. Gabriela Hearst, always a proponent for craft, started her show with knit maxis embellished at the hips and ribcage with woven inserts handmade in collaboration with Naiomi Glasses and TahNibaa Naataanii of the Navajo Nation.
Trend #5: A Cold Summer
There's something to be said about transseasonal collections, with designs named for Spring/Summer sauntering down runways cosy in knits; in big coats; in anoraks; in shearling; in tartan check and brushed surfaces and houndstooth prints perhaps much more familiar emblazoned across collections another season away. Most patent was Coach's homage to Bonnie Cashin, a titan that made the brand a household name upon her helm, and someone superlatively described as a designer that "cut some of the best outerwear American fashion has ever seen." We're all going to need coats in a couple of months anyway. Or, on vacation — fingers crossed.
(Header image courtesy of Proenza Schouler's Instagram @proenzaschouler; Featured image courtesy of Eduardo Munoz Alvarez / AFP)
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Uruguayan Designer Gabriela Hearst Has Championed Sustainability From Day One
It’s clear that we need to design, create and buy better in fashion — a push for best practices in both the environmental and social sides of fashion has major global resonance today. Throughout January, we highlight five exciting labels from around the world leading the way in stylish sustainability. The second stop of our journey is Gabriela Hearst.
Having lived in Paris and New York as well as her native Uruguay, designer Gabriela Hearst started her namesake luxury fashion and accessories brand in 2015 in the US. Her star has risen steadily since she won the 2017 Woolmark International Prize for Womenswear. In January 2019, luxury giant LVMH invested in the brand, allowing Hearst’s label to push its presence more globally. Most recently, Hearst made high-fashion headlines when she was named new artistic director of the French house Chloé.
Hearst has had a sustainable approach to fashion since the early stages, which no doubt has much to do with growing up on her family’s sheep ranch in Uruguay, a property she still looks after today. Beautiful craftsmanship, sustainable practices and quality everlasting materials are as central to the label as the effortlessly cool look she’s nailed down.
Based in New York, the label has been one of luxury’s most notable and authentic sustainability champions of late. And Hearst’s fresh sense of elegance in design has made her pieces highly coveted by editors and influencers alike, quickly becoming a cult sensation.
The gorgeous Cruise collection is anchored in pristine white, contrasting blacks and earthy, warm desert tones. Her signature minimalist tailoring is complemented with many fabrics made from repurposed dead-stock supplies. She’s set a goal of using 80 percent dead stock in 2023 and no use of virgin materials (which have high environmental impact) by 2022. The label also uses all compostable bioplastics for its packaging and is known to combine beautiful luxurious materials (including wool from the family farm) with technological innovation, such as a silver fabric that protects the body from cellphone radiation.
“If we have what we need to confront climate change, the question is whether we can do it fast enough. What’s clear from the Covid pandemic is that we can change our behaviour fast. The collective consciousness and policy has to go with it,” says the designer on her website. “The conscious goal was for the crisis not to stunt our creative growth. How can we push ourselves further even with the current limitations? The craft of the hands, our Northern star.”
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7 Bright and Bold Dresses to Get Ready for Spring in
As our old friend -- warm weather -- peeks through the clouds, it seems we are all beginning to feel a little excited, if not relieved. Not only because this marks the end of what seemed like a particularly cold winter in Hong Kong, but also because we can now officially start planning our spring wardrobes. And as we lift off the layers, we also lean on bold and bright colours to lift up our spirits. From fiery reds, brilliant blues, and vibrant saffron, here are this season's seven most eye-catching dresses for spring.
Self-Portrait Fuchsia Cotton Poplin Dress
Cut from cotton poplin, this long flowy fuchsia dress is detailed with frilled sleeves and the cutest tie open back. It's fitted at the waist before falling into the full panelled maxi skirt, making the style flattering and perfect for sitting pretty in pink at long leisurely brunches in the sun.
Shop: HK$3,250 | www.self-portrait-studio.com
Rejina Pyo Green Betty Dress
As if we needed another excuse to wear exaggerated sleeves, this Betty dress is simply gorgeous in a lively and herbaceous green that makes for a striking look, day or night. The dress also features an assortment of handmade buttons for a sophisticated yet unique style and convenient zip back.
Shop: HK$7,495 | www.rejinapyo.com
Gabriela Hearst Saffron Wrap Dress
Inspired by the grace of Greek goddesses, this wrap dress in brilliant saffron is as elegant as it is bright. Created in a glowing crinkle crepe silk-cotton blend, the result is relaxed and optimistic. The dress also features an overhand border finish on the neckline and a draped cape-effect back.
Shop: HK$20,265 | www.gabrielahearst.com
Sies Marjan Sapphire Blue Satin Dress
Rich and glossy is the name of the game here and this cool sapphire blue dress in hammered-satin is the standout dress to make heads turn. A softly draped neckline lets the figure-skimming silhouette of the dress shine, and will make you shine during those balmy evenings too.
Shop: HK$7,255 | www.siesmarjan.com
Victoria Beckham Purple Ruffle Cami Dress
The floaty fit and ruffles of this cami dress exudes romance that can be worn during mellow spring days and into the evenings. Made from silk crepe de chine, in a bright amethyst purple, the off-shoulder neckline shows off handmade flowers that add to the utterly feminine feel of this dress.
Shop: HK$14,700 | www.victoriabeckham.com
Christopher Kane Coral Slinky Satin Dress
Perfectly peachy, this slinky satin dress in coral is studded with silver dome embellishments for a more modern look. The billowing bishop sleeves and back tie add shape to the overall look, while the blushing tone is both soothing and warm for spring.
Shop: HK$13,500 | www.christopherkane.com
Alexander McQueen Red and Pink Taffeta Dress
This ruffle tiered dress in lust red and orchid pink silk taffeta is colour blocking made easy. It's bold and energetic and should be worn with nothing but confidence. The exploded ruffle neckline and detachable hem comes with concealed button fastenings which makes for easy changes if needed, too.
Shop: HK$49,400 | www.alexandermcqueen.com
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Tiffany Hsu, Fashion Buying Director of Mytheresa.com, Reveals What’s Hot This Season
Tiffany Hsu, fashion buying director of the online womenswear retailer Mytheresa, talks about the corsets and exotic prints that have taken over the runways this season, and how changing consumer attitudes affect Mytheresa’s selections.
What caught your attention in autumn/winter 2019?
From New York, I loved The Row for their oversized roll-neck in iterations such as silk and shearling, and Gabriela Hearst for her elegant and feminine statement coats and floor-length looks. I was also excited by Khaite’s debut runway show, where Cate Holstein presented an array of wearable looks that felt feminine and modern in a new and fresh way, from the incorporation of hand-painted zebra prints, to silk dresses and whipstitch-detailed outerwear. In terms of emerging talent, Deveaux New York was also very much on our radar for its chic tailoring.
From London, Victoria Beckham’s show was made for the modern woman -- the skintight thigh-high boots in electric blue, leopard print and nude were so refreshing against the formal tailored looks. I loved the open-toe styles and pumps in bright colours, too. Combined with a comfortable heel height, they make a great statement even when worn with the most casual workwear look. Simone Rocha also had some beautiful eveningwear styles, proving the corset trend is back and more statement than ever.
[caption id="attachment_164100" align="alignnone" width="2358"] Bottega Veneta[/caption]
Bottega Veneta had to be the most hotly anticipated collection in Milan, and new creative director Daniel Lee didn’t disappoint. The collection provided the perfect balance of androgynous styles and powerful silhouettes, particularly with the use of leather across full looks and accessories; the cube-effect shoulder bag is going to be another coveted item after the success of the pouch so far this season. The Attico also had a refreshing presentation, which offered some of the best partywear in the brand’s cult sequin dresses.
I loved Paco Rabanne’s collection in Paris for its mash-up of floral on floral in different exotic prints, combined with over-the-top statement bling. Jonathan Anderson presented another stand-out show at Loewe with his chic checked outerwear and glamorous, understated evening bags. At Saint Laurent, Anthony Vaccarello took the collection to new levels; the outerwear was better than ever with oversized shoulders and straight cuts, finished in classic shades of black and cream.
What key trends did you notice?
Black is the new black; the shade dominated the runways in a fresh, revived way -- Saint Laurent and Bottega Veneta did this especially well in a subtle yet chic way. Dramatic oversized shoulders were key from the likes of Isabel Marant, who offered classic shearling and tweed styles with extra padding to elevate the looks. Chain mail was prominent across accessories as earrings, mini-bags and belts, which were more glamorous and statement than in previous seasons with a “more is more” approach. Finally, midi-boots are the key style to watch in footwear.
[caption id="attachment_164098" align="alignnone" width="3456"] Isabel Marant[/caption]
What categories/new designers are you most excited about?
Marine Serre is one of the most promising new talents that we already offer on Mytheresa. Our fashion-savvy customers love her bold designs and all-over prints that are meant to be worn in several layers. The T-shirts and dresses as well as the printed tights and long-sleeve tops were an instant sell-out. For the new season we’re also bringing on Kwaidan Editions by the London-based designers Léa Dickely and Hung La. I fell in love with their leather suiting and ’40s tailoring in bold colours, which are very on trend but at the same time wearable for everyone.
[caption id="attachment_164102" align="alignnone" width="3394"] Loewe[/caption]
Some key themes -- sustainability, emerging talent, diversity -- have captured the industry. What are your thoughts on them and do these new concerns within the industry affect the way you buy?
These new themes are great as they offer room for fresh new ideas and approaches. As we see that the customer is also starting to pay more attention to these topics, we try and expand our buy accordingly to reflect this new found engagement with these important issues.
Which consumer attitudes of spring/summer ’19 did you take into consideration when buying for autumn/winter?
I think there’s a focus on our planet more than ever. Designers are inspired to raise awareness of various eco topics through this, but also to look to nature as a key source of design inspiration because of its beauty. For many designers it’s not a trend, but rather a brand identity that their collections are based on. We picked up Nanushka last year, which offers some incredible vegan leather pieces that don’t compromise on style and are also practical.
How is buying for online retail different from or similar to buying for bricks-and-mortar stores?
For online we need to make sure the product is visual and that all the details translate well online. We really focus on depth rather than just width -- we have one of the largest offerings in terms of runway looks and pieces compared to our competitors.
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10 Summer Sandals We Love Right Now
Sun’s out, toes out -- with pedicures poised and at the ready, of course. From relaxed slides for city excursions to lightweight thongs for the beach, stiletto heels for nights out and chunky platforms for a '90s comeback, we’ve rounded up our top easy breezy footwear for all occasions this summer. Here are 10 sandals we love this summer.
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10 Fun-Shaped Mini Bags to Carry This Summer
Do all good things come in small packages? Perhaps not, but they certainly do when we're talking about fun little mini bags. Sure, you could carry them year-round, but there's no better time than summer to add a little playfulness to your look. And really, who wants to be holding a big bulky bag on these hot summer days? From entertaining evening bags to clutches full of character, here are our top 10 petite picks to carry with you this summer.
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The Emerging Under-The-Radar Handbag Brands To Know
There's a new wave of luxury bags taking over the fashion world.
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Gabriela Hearst’s Bags are Saving the World
The designer’s covetable, eco-conscious totes are coming to Lane Crawford.
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