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From Leica ambassadors to creatives working at the forefront of pop culture, we ask five female watch collectors to sound off on the world of watches in 2021 -- and what needs to be fine-tuned. 

Characterised for much of the 20th century -- albeit, not unfairly -- as a 'boy's club', the luxury watch industry is now going through a tectonic culture shift. Once consigned to buying from the 'shrink it and pink it' catalogue of design, female watch collectors are now shirking convention (in record numbers) in favour of the same sporty steel stuff favoured by men that's come to dominate the landscape of haute horlogerie. That, coupled with wider social movements which have had an indelible impact on pop culture (and that seemed to reach critical mass these past two years), has made more intrepid elements in the industry sit up and take notice. About time we say. 

Still, as anyone with even a passing comprehension of the luxury watch industry knows, progress can often come at a glacial pace. Here then, to help the industry-at-large along are timely wisdoms from five of the hobby's leading ladies; who spoke to us about grails, inclusivity, and what watch brands need to do better in 2021. 

Lung Lung Thun

Occupation: Financier, Singapore
Handle: @lunglungthun

Q: Assuming no limit when it comes to time or money, tell us what your ultimate watch would look like.

A: In the case that there's only really one watch then I'd have to go with the Patek Philippe reference 5004 -- an extremely important split-second chronograph from the brand that integrates a perpetual calendar and is made in yellow gold.

Q: What can men in the watch community (whether they be collectors or industry people) do to make the hobby a more inclusive and inviting space?

A: The unimaginative answer would be something along the lines of "make more women's watches". Personally, I think a bigger effort should be made to invite female watch collectors to community events (e.g. get-togethers and workshops). It can be intimidating to reach out and get involved otherwise.

Q: Do you have a favourite watch within your collection? If not, talk us through the piece you've been wearing the most these past several months.

A: My all-time favourite would probably be the open-worked Royal Oak in frosted white gold made with double balance wheels (reference 15466 for short). It also happens to be the watch that's been getting the most time on-wrist -- recently, I flew back home to Singapore and I always bring this watch when I'm travelling.

Q: In your view, what are some of the trends watch brands should retire in order to attract a bigger, more diverse female audience?

A: KOL advertising. Speaking bluntly, a huge chunk of it doesn't speak to the segment who can actually afford the watches that are being marketed.

Q: Call out one other woman in the watch community -- this can be a watchmaker, brand executive, journalist et cetera -- who you think deserves a bigger platform. Tell us why.

A: Jaclyn Li, fellow watch collector and co-host of The Waiting List podcast. She's embodies everything I expect in an enthusiast: knowledge, humility, and a clear sense of direction from a very young age. She's always been confident about her own tastes and has an extremely discerning eye for vintage.

Hosanna Swee

Occupation: Photographer, Singapore
Handle: @hforhozzie

Q: Assuming no limit when it comes to time or money, tell us what your ultimate watch would look like.

A: In an ideal world, I'd want something from F.P. Journe's Vagabondage series, particularly the Vagabondage III. I've always been a fan of François-Paul's unique design sensibilities, as they strike a balance between traditional methods of craft and a contemporary edge. His designs are synonymous with asymmetry and customised typography -- the latter particularly demonstrates his attention to detail.

A: While most of the signature F.P. Journe watches consist of round designs, the Vagabondage series is distinctly shaped. Inside the tortue shape, the movement's complexities are mostly exposed: evoking a visually arresting, mechanically satisfying sentiment. I've always gravitated toward classic designs that have a hint of the unconventional -- so this really resonates with me.

Q: What can men in the watch community (whether they be collectors or industry people) do to make the hobby a more inclusive and inviting space?

A: Sometimes to discern what women want, all it takes is a shift in perspective -- just like understanding one's individual love language. It's common to be intimidated by watchmaking because it's such a theoretical, historically male-centric passion. Female watch collectors tend to be intuitive, so positioning watches in a narrative and stylised context would definitely lower the barrier to entry.

Q: Do you have a favourite watch within your collection? If not, talk us through the piece you've been wearing the most these past several months.

A: My favourite would be a pièce unique by Ulysse Nardin given to me as an engagement present -- mostly for sentimental reasons. Above all else, I believe time is the most precious gift you can give to someone. The dial in grand feu enamel symbolises the promise of a lifetime -- always brilliant, never fading. The hour markers spell out my name (albeit discretely enough to escape an unsuspecting eye).

A: Aside from that, the timepieces which have gotten the most wear over the past few weeks have been my Roger Dubuis Sympathie chronographs. These outstanding watches from the 90s champion the essence of early independent watchmaking. The cases feature interesting curves and sharp angles, deploy alternating brushed-and-polished finishing, generally resulting in a bold yet elegant look. It's as though you're wearing artwork on your wrist: complete with a gorgeous dial and elaborate movement.

Q: In your view, what are some of the trends watch brands should retire in order to attract a bigger, more diverse female audience?

A: Most of the timepieces catering to female collectors are still distinguished by their aesthetic aspect, as opposed to qualities of a mechanical nature (e.g. movement/complications). Fortunately, the landscape appears to be gradually shifting. I think brands need to start paying more attention to the performance and finishing of calibres found in ladies' watches -- to cater to the needs of 'serious' female collectors. Additionally, it's apparent that a large number of female collectors have an inclination toward men's timepieces: hence, smaller unisex options with a universal design language could be a great initiative.

Q: Call out one other woman in the watch community -- this can be a watchmaker, brand executive, journalist et cetera -- who you think deservers a bigger platform. Tell us why.

A: I'd pick Julie Kraulis, a much revered watch portraitist: perhaps it's her pursuit of the road less-travelled, or the focused intricacy toward her craft that inspires me. In photography, capturing a meaningful image requires patience, but I can only imagine how much more focus is required for the sketched medium. Julia's work is more than mere sketching: rather, it's a backstory depicting using layers of overlapping narrative. It's something you appreciate in layers -- shifting your perspective on how you see a watch.

Zoe Abelson

Occupation: Watchbox Senior Client Advisor, Hong Kong
Social handle: @watchgirloffduty

Q: Assuming no limit when it comes to time or money, tell us what your ultimate watch would look like.

A: It's honestly pretty difficult to pick one watch that would be my 'ultimate' piece. Your 'grail' is constantly changing: as taste and appreciation for the various types of brands and complications evolves. One thing that's always been the case is that my ideal collection would be built around rare vintage Day-Dates -- think dials of Stella, stone, and wood. Some of my favourites include those models made with onyx, ferrite, coral, lapis lazuli and green jasper.

Q: What can men in the watch community (whether they be collectors or industry people) do to make the hobby a more inclusive and inviting space?

A: Recently, we're seeing more support and encouragement on social media -- for both female collectors and women working in the industry. In this regard, platforms like Instagram and Clubhouse have been pivotal; as have programmes like OT: The Podcast. In future, I also hope to start seeing existing collectors' clubs invite women to join.

Q: Do you have a favourite watch within your collection? If not, talk us through the piece you've been wearing the most these past several months.

A: I don't have a 'favourite' per se, but one watch I've been wearing constantly is my Rolex Oyster Perpetual 31 in 'Tiffany' blue. The remainder of my collection consists of vintage stuff that's higher value, so I find that this OP can be worn more carefreely. Plus, it's just a super-fun watch -- the riff on eggshell blue is definitely a contrast to the black and silver-dialled pieces I own.

Q: In your view, what are some of the trends watch brands should retire in order to attract a bigger, more diverse female audience?

A: We ought to stop splitting watches into 'men's' and 'ladies' categories and offer further consideration to designs that work as unisex. Personally, I prefer wearing timepieces that are 36mm-40mm, and at the moment those are all labeled as 'men's watches'. That perception might influence women new in the hobby to only consider a narrow assortment of pieces. Brands should spend more time helping consumers figure out what size is right for them personally; and, by extension, focus on investing in mechanical movements tailormade for smaller sized pieces.

Q: Call out one other woman in the watch community -- this can be a watchmaker, brand executive, journalist et cetera -- who you think deservers a bigger platform. Tell us why.

A: At the moment, I'm very excited about Dimepiece: a website and Instagram account that's dedicated to celebrating the watches worn by women in pop culture. Brynn Wallner (who runs the account) is bringing a much-needed dose of cool to the community, that will hopefully inspire more women to embrace watch collecting.

Ming Liu

Occupation: Journalist, London
Social handle: @mingliuwrites

Q: Assuming no limit when it comes to time or money, tell us what your ultimate watch would look like.

A: My 'wishlist' has gotten somewhat out of hand, but realistically, I could see myself wearing the Royal Oak in frosted yellow gold (with a mirrored dial) on the daily. It's an iconic watch and an iconic design -- I keep trying to nick my husband's Jumbo -- and I love how it harmonises with jeweller Carolina Bucci's hammered gold finish. Fabulous, disco, and yet super-wearable.

Q: What can men in the watch community (whether they be collectors or industry people) do to make the hobby a more inclusive and inviting space?

A: I’d like to see more male executives/designers joining in on the recent conversations surrounding women's watches. We've been endeavouring to have our voices heard for a while; and I think having men partake in that discourse as well will be crucial to its resonance. What really is the male response to female collectors? How would they design for female watch collectors today? Do they feel the need to design for women separately at all? I think the more that male industry leaders partake in this conversation, the more the industry is likely to change as a whole.

Q: Do you have a favourite watch within your collection? If not, talk us through the piece you've been wearing the most these past several months.

A: I do have my favourites -- a Rolex Datejust, a Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso -- many of which are linked to my family in some way, but the watch I’ve been wearing the most mid-pandemic is my Bamford x G-Shock. It’s become my ultimate tool watch for lockdown: fit for purpose whether I’m on mum duty; #WFH; cooking; or just checking the time at 4am while trying to settle my toddler. It’s bulletproof and multifunctional (and as a plus, brings me right back to my teenage days of wearing G-Shock).

Q: In your view, what are some of the trends watch brands should retire in order to attract a bigger, more diverse female audience?

A: My biggest bugbear is that the majority of the advertising that's levelled at women depicts the 'male gaze': it's outmoded, tone-deaf, and quite frankly desperate. I want to see the kinds of real women who are wearing watches right now -- not the imaginary creations of male fantasy for whom they'd ultimately buy timepieces.

Q: Call out one other woman in the watch community -- this can be a watchmaker, brand executive, journalist et cetera -- who you think deservers a bigger platform. Tell us why.

A: A big shout out to Watch Femme, a community founded by two watch world veterans actually -- Laetitia Hirschy and Suzanne Wong. The community is quite new but expect great and interesting things!

Brynn Wallner

Occupation: Creative Director, New York
Social handle: @brynntrill

Q: Assuming no limit when it comes to time or money, tell us what your ultimate watch would look like.

A: My friend has a 33mm two-tone Nautilus that I'm absolutely obsessed with. It looks perfect on her -- and I think it'd look perfect on me too.

Q: What can men in the watch community (whether they be collectors or industry people) do to make the hobby a more inclusive and inviting space?

A: It's just a matter of asking people (in this case, men) to be more patient with anyone who's new to the watch world. There's so much to take in: from the different brands to reference numbers and the various types of movements. That all contributed to why I was so intimidated in the first place: because I didn't grow up with a watch collecting dad, or come up with a lot of the preset knowledge that men like that are raised with, I thought I didn't deserve a seat at the table. But the support I've gotten from men and women in the industry (excited to have a newcomer in the hobby with such bright eyes) helped me to get over that relatively quickly.

A: I will also say that there is no shame at coming into the watch world from a fashion-oriented or pop-culture perspective. At the end of the day, watches are just one aspect of an overall lifestyle. I've gotten guys in the comments section of my Dimepiece posts correcting me on things like reference numbers. Although I'm grateful for the honesty (and I'm dying to get to that Rain Man level of numerical memorization), the specific reference numbers are besides the point. I started this project to help the watch world become more accessible to beginners interested in it, and you have to start somewhere – even if that means screwing up the exact ref. number on a Rolex Submariner. It's a process! Be patient with us newbies or we'll get scared away!

Q: Do you have a favourite watch within your collection? If not, talk us through the piece you've been wearing the most these past several months.

A: I actually don't own a luxury watch! This is a completely new passion for me. That said, I'm already looking forward to purchasing a small two-tone Cartier Tank Française for my 31st birthday.

Q: In your view, what are some of the trends watch brands should retire in order to attract a bigger, more diverse female audience?

A: I'm certain I won't be alone here when I reference the piece Cara Barrett recently wrote for her Hodinkee column Second Opinions. Gender labels (in general) are so "2000 and late" -- that certainly applies to the way watches are still being marketed.

I'd also suggest that the more luxurious heritage brands could loosen up when it comes to how they approach marketing. Not everything has to look so premium and so high-end: sometimes these watch campaigns are so slick that they feel borderline corny. The high-end stuff exists in this 'safe space' where everybody knows they're luxury -- we all know they're expensive. In that regard, they can take more risks when it comes to the style of advertising: switching up the current aesthetic to make things seem more inclusive and accessible (all the while maintaining that baked-in level of aspiration). That's a balance that fashion brands like Gucci have been striking extremely well.

Q: Call out one other woman in the watch community -- this can be a watchmaker, brand executive, journalist et cetera -- who you think deservers a bigger platform. Tell us why.

A: Ever since starting Dimepiece, I've made lots of internet friends in the watch community! One of them is Zoe Abelson (also featured in this column). She's currently a senior client advisor at Watchbox, and I'm excited to see how her career develops and expands. I'm actually interviewing in the not-too-distant future, so you can expect to see more of her when that article drops in April! 

The post 5 Takeaways from 5 Leading Ladies in the World of Luxury Watches appeared first on Prestige Online - Hong Kong.

Tom Chng is a well-known name within the watch community, who founded the Singapore Watch Club in 2015 to share his passion for timepieces through his Instagram account, @singaporewatchclub, and meet like-minded individuals in the city and beyond at regular get-togethers. His personal collection is vast, and his watch knowledge even more so.

In 2017, Chng met Hosanna Swee (@hforhozzie), a photographer and currently Leica ambassador in Singapore. As the story goes, he saw her watch before he saw her face, but the pair clicked. Maybe, then, it’s not so unexpected that Chng would propose to Swee with a Ulysse Nardin Classico unique piece – and this is how he did it.

Does Hosanna share the same passion for watches? Who influenced who?

If you asked her, she’d probably say me. Because that’s what it seems like on the surface. I think I’m quite a bit more into watches than she is but, then again, when I think about it I can say she influenced my taste more. Because, honestly, she’s got a much better eye for design and luxury than me. So throughout the years, she’s unknowingly polished my taste and eye for design in watches. After meeting her, I found myself liking more classical designs. I seek out more timeless creations rather than something that could be trendy or popular at a certain point.

How did you guys meet?

We met on a dating app. And it’s quite a funny story, because in her pictures she cropped away her face. So all the pictures had no face, but I still was interested in her because she was wearing a very nice AP Royal Oak at the time. Today everyone’s quite crazy over the Royal Oak, but back in 2017 it was still an unusual choice for a girl. So that’s pretty much how we met.

Tell us about the proposal. Was it a long time in the planning?

I was quite adamant that I didn’t want to propose during the pandemic, because of all the social restrictions – our friends and family weren’t going to be able to be there. And she’s quite close to her family, so I always envisioned that they’d be there at the proposal. But at the end of last year, it all just felt right. Everything just fell into place. And then I thought, I guess I’ll do it now, in the middle of the pandemic.

It was our anniversary last month so I thought it would be a great time to do it. It was very impromptu and it was confirmed only a week before it happened. We went to a rooftop bar for drinks before dinner and then I presented her with the watch and told her how much I appreciated her. It was pretty simple, it was just the two of us; very intimate.

The watch wasn’t just any watch but a bespoke piece. Can you tell us about how it was made?

It was a year in the making. I provided Ulysse Nardin with the design, but of course the brand had some contributions to the design process as well. Hosanna fancies classical and minimalist designs; typography choice was also paramount, especially for a watch like this – the font choice can make or break the piece. The watch looks simple, but the little details are crucial and are often overlooked. Size of the markers, choice of hands, logo application, etc. Hosanna is extremely discreet and understated, so to adorn the dial with her name might be a tad too loud for her. The execution is key here; the idea was to create something truly personal but obvious only to the wearer and no one else.

You managed to spell out her name with the hour markers on the dial. That was very clever.

That’s what we love about it. The words were designed to be almost unnoticeable, even from 30 centimetres away. Even a lot of our friends are like, “Nice watch.” And then two days later they tell us they just noticed that her name is on the dial.

Is there a particular reason why you chose to work with Ulysse Nardin?

This watch is something that’s very meaningful to us. And longevity is the key here. I really wanted it to look as good 100 years from now as it does today. So in order to achieve that, you need an enamel dial. Ulysse Nardin’s dial-making subsidiary, Donzé Cadrans, is the most renowned and prolific enamel dial manufacture in the world, so it couldn’t have been an easier choice. It was a no-brainer. I also worked with Ulysse Nardin for our first Singapore Watch Club special edition back in 2017, so it was nice to work with them again this time around.

When I met Hosanna in 2017, that was the same year we released the first Singapore Watch Club edition with Ulysse Nardin. She wanted one, but at that point when the project was announced, we were already sold out for months. So she couldn’t get one. This is the perfect opportunity – not only does she get one, but she gets one that’s even more special with a special story.

Could you describe all the surprise elements on the watch?

The dial is in black enamel and there’s an applied logo at 12 o’clock. Compared to the production model, the Classico, which is the canvas for this piece, we’ve removed the date function and the small seconds, so it’s just hours and minutes on the dial. We also changed the hands from the regular leaf shape to the spade and whip hands you’d normally find on antique marine chronometers, which we also used in the SWC 2017 piece. The hour markers spell out Hosanna’s name, and at the back there’s a small engraving that says, “Marry me?”

Are you going to get yourself a matching watch?

We love to match watches! Very often we try to find his and hers for our watch collection. For this one, I already have one to match, because I’ve got the prototype from the 2017 SWC edition.

Have you both given each other watches previously?

This is the first. I’ve jokingly asked her before if she was going to buy me a watch. And she’s like, “Yeah, I will when I’m your wife.” She did say that now we’re engaged she thinks she needs to buy me a watch.

Have you set a date for your wedding yet? Or will you wait until the pandemic is over?

We’re waiting until it’s over. But we’re aiming for a timeline of maybe a year and a half from now. But really, we need to see how things pan out. It’s very tricky with all the restrictions here in Singapore. You’d have to divide your wedding into different zones of about 50 people. And people can’t mingle outside of those zones. It’ll be a nightmare.

One last question, now that Hosanna owns an engagement watch, will she still be receiving an engagement ring?

Haha, unfortunately not! However, she’s hinted at a more ornate wedding band, to make up for the lack of an engagement ring!

The post Watch Collector Tom Chng and His Bespoke Proposal appeared first on Prestige Online - Hong Kong.

In this fortnightly online column, we suss out the latest trends on Instagram. This week we feature some worthy watches double-tapped by Singapore's top collectors, all in honour of #SIHH2018.

The post #Hashtag: Haute Horlogerie appeared first on Prestige Online - Hong Kong.