Celebrity Life
Keeping Traditional Cantonese Cuisine Alive with T’ang Court’s Chef Wong Chi Fai
Cantonese cuisine has changed tremendously in recent years, with more contemporary renditions of classic dishes and fusion styles than ever before. But what about the traditional Cantonese food that we grew up eating; with flavours and aromas that can evoke a sense of nostalgia for many of us. Thankfully, it's well and truly alive at Chinese restaurants such as three Michelin-starred T'ang Court.
As one of only five Cantonese restaurants in the world to achieve three-star status, it's safe to say that the cuisine -- as we know it -- is still going strong. T'ang Court too, continues to be a popular eatery for both locals and travellers as they celebrate their 30th anniversary this year. What's more, it seems that much of the same team remain to this day.
So, in honour of the restaurant's timeless dishes, and what seems to be a timeless team, we decided to go behind those burgundy drapes and into the kitchen with Executive Chef Wong Chi Fai to find out why they've stayed so long, what those timeless dishes are, and what he thinks of modern day Cantonese cuisine.
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Chef Wong, you joined T'ang Court 19 years ago. Why have you stayed for so long?
A number of my co-workers, including kitchen and service team, have worked here for over two decades too. We are as close as family members and enjoy the strong team spirit of “one team, one dream."
Do you think Cantonese cuisine is still as popular as it was all those years ago?
Michelin launched the Guide for Fine Cantonese Food which compiles the best locations across 15 countries in 2018. T’ang Court was one of the recommended restaurants, which really proves the popularity and importance of Cantonese cuisine on the global culinary stage.
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T’ang Court is known for its elegant yet traditional-style Cantonese dishes. Why is it important to you to preserve this?
The essence of traditional Cantonese cuisine is the flame-cooking technique – how to cook perfectly within a short and precise time while keeping the freshness and original taste of ingredients, without using too much seasoning, involves a wide variety of techniques. And if I do not share my experience and tips with the young talents then we may lose this craftsmanship altogether.
What do you think about this new wave of Chinese chefs creating contemporary Chinese cuisine?
I enjoy trying new restaurants that serve contemporary Chinese cuisine. Having both traditional and contemporary options in the market offers variety. I'm glad to see some Chinese chefs showcasing their creativity in their dishes which [as a result] attracts the younger generation to appreciate Cantonese cuisine.
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Can you please tell us more about those signature dishes that have remained to this day?
- Stir-fried lobster with onion, shallot and spring onion: Back in 2002, Chinese Master Chef Kwong Wai Keung was attracted by a whiff of stir-fried preserved black bean, which inspired him to create a dish that people could smell before they see, and hence his award-winning dish was born.
- Sautéed prawns and crab roe with golden-fried pork and crab meat puff: For this dish, Chef Kwong was inspired by the classic Cantonese recipe for golden-fried pork and crab meat puff, where preparation requires intensive craftsmanship and techniques. The dish is a rare find in restaurants now and so in 2001, he became determined to educate the younger generation about this traditional dish, thus he added sautéed prawns and crab roe on top, which was a perfect match with the puff, enhancing the appeal and taste to more guests.
- Baked seafood rice with cream sauce in crab shell: Chef Kwong was walking around a dinnerware store in the '90s and discovered a stunning golden crab-shaped plate. Inspired by its extraordinary shape, he created the baked seafood rice and stuffed it in a crab shell before placing it on top of the crab-shaped plate.
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Giveaway: Win a 2-Night Stay at The Langham with Lunch at 3-Michelin-Starred Restaurant T’ang Court
Though summer is typically thought of as a relaxing season, let's face it: We could all use a bit more time to rest and recharge. So what better way to escape the hustle and bustle of the city than a mini vacation? We’ve partnered with The Langham, Hong Kong to bring Prestige readers a staycation that you won’t want to miss out on.
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Located in the heart of Tsim Sha Tsui, The Langham is a luxury hotel that has not only 498 rooms and suites, but also T’ang Court -- a three-Michelin-starred Cantonese restaurant. There's also the highly exclusive Langham Club, where guests can have a private check-in and check-out experience in The Ante Room, various F&B offerings through their Butler’s Pantry, as well as complimentary garment pressing services.
The Giveaway:
Exclusively for Prestige readers, one (1) lucky winner will receive a two (2) night stay in a luxurious one-bedroom suite at The Langham in Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong, along with Langham Club Access, and a set lunch for two (2) at Cantonese restaurant T’ang Court. This giveaway prize is worth over HK$10,000.
How to Enter:
- Like us on Facebook and follow us on Instagram.
- Fill in the giveaway form below and answer the question.
- To increase your odds of winning, like our giveaway posts on Facebook and Instagram and tag your friends so they can participate, too.
Terms & Conditions:
- 1. By entering this PrestigeOnline.com giveaway, you will be bound by these terms and conditions and acknowledge that you satisfy all eligibility requirements.
- 2. This contest is open to Hong Kong residents only and entrants must be over the age of eighteen (18).
- 3. Entrants must follow our Facebook and Instagram pages and respond to the question for their entry to be valid.
- 4. Email entries will be added to the Prestige Hong Kong database.
- 5. Entries will be accepted until 10am on Wednesday, 21 August 2019.
- 6. Winners will be notified by email before 6pm on Wednesday, 21 August 2019.
- 7. Winners must respond to redeem the prize within seven (7) days of the prize announcement, otherwise the prize will be forfeited.
- 8. Prizes cannot be exchanged for cash, credit and are non-transferrable to third parties.
- 9. Prestige reserves the right to cancel, re-draw or otherwise modify this giveaway at any time with immediate effect and without giving prior notice.
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The post Giveaway: Win a 2-Night Stay at The Langham with Lunch at 3-Michelin-Starred Restaurant T’ang Court appeared first on Prestige Online - Hong Kong.
Hong Kong’s Finest Cantonese Restaurants
With the recent release of a global Michelin guide devoted entirely to Cantonese cuisine – the first publication by the famed foodies’ bible, in fact, that’s dedicated to a single school of cookery – we decided it was high time for us to revisit a handful of Hong Kong’s dining institutions that have elevated the food of southeast China to a fine art.
Yan Toh Heen
[caption id="attachment_148288" align="alignnone" width="1280"] Chef's dim sum selection at Yan Toh Heen[/caption]
Renovated last year to resemble an exquisite jade jewellery box, the Cantonese eatery at InterContinental Hong Kong has earned two Michelin stars for five consecutive years and five stars from the Forbes Travel Guide for three consecutive years. The man behind its celebrated dishes is Lau Yiu Fai, who’s been with the restaurant since 1984.
“Due to our proximity the sea, chefs cooking Cantonese cuisine have access to the freshest seafood, which requires us to reveal the uniquenessof the ingredients and a sense of spontaneity,” says the executive chef. “It’s not enough to just follow recipes; we need to show our personality.”
[inline-quote author="Executive Chef Lau Yiu Fai"]"My goal is to earn three Michelin stars, and my motto is: Don’t believe in luck and fate, but cause and effect."[/inline-quote]
To do so, Lau adds layers of taste and texture. “For instance, toenhance the crispiness and succulence of our Peking duck, I created twonew sauces: osmanthus plum and black garlic chili. We also serve six garnishes: green papaya, cucumber, red chili, pineapple, pomelo and spring onion. It caters to the tastes of both younger and older customers.”
Indeed, being a specialist in Cantonese cuisine doesn’t limit Lau tolocal ingredients. “I once travelled to the foot of Sakurajima in Kagoshima to find the radish for our turnip cake and a wet market in South Korea to search for seafood for our new dishes,” he says.
And while innovation plays a big role in the menu, traditional dishesare the reason Yan Toh Heen is hailed as one of the world’s finest Chinese restaurants. “After more than 30 years, most of all we want to continue to delight food lovers with our cuisine, service, ambience and spectacular harbour views,” Lau says.
Yan Toh Heen, Lower Level, InterContinental Hong Kong, 18 Salisburuy Road, Tsim Sha Tsui; +852 2313 2323
Lung King Heen
[caption id="attachment_148289" align="alignnone" width="853"] Lung King Heen Executive Chef Chan Yan Tak[/caption]
Known for exceptional dim sum and Cantonese “masterpieces”, Lung King Heen at the Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong is the first Chinese restaurant in the world to be awarded the Michelin three-star rating and the only Cantonese restaurant in town to receive the accolade – and for an impressive 10 consecutive years.
Executive chef Chan Yan Tak was born and raised here, and serves as an inspiration for other local chefs – his success has proven they don’t have to travel abroad to become culinary stars. “I’ve been amazed at the response from people around the world,” Chan says.
[inline-quote author="Executive Chef Chan Yan Tak"]"“I just carry on doing what I do and what I enjoy, and that’s cooking good food for people.”"[/inline-quote]
What Chan means by that includes signature dishes such as steamed lobster with scalloped dumpling, wok-fried prawns with organic black garlic and dried chili, and, to celebrate this month’s Dragon Boat Festival, organic glutinous rice dumplings with abalone and conpoy, osmanthus and chestnut, or termite mushrooms, crabmeat and red beans.
For the boy from Kowloon, all the Michelin stars in the world can’t beat the sense of community among his team and the city at large. “When I go to the wet market to buy some fish or vegetables,” he says, “I know I’ll always see the same faces and be served by the same people who’ve worked there for 20 or 30 years.”
[caption id="attachment_148287" align="alignnone" width="1710"] Chan's crispy scallops with fresh pear, shrimp paste and Yunnan ham[/caption]
Lung King Heen, Four Seasons Hong Kong, 8 Finance Street, Central +852 3196 8880
Seventh Son
[caption id="attachment_148290" align="alignnone" width="1280"] Seventh Son's famous crispy chicken[/caption]
Named for Chui Wai Kwan – the seventh son of Chui Fok Chuen, founder of the Chinese restaurant group Fook Lam Moon – Seventh Son is a story of family and tradition.
“I’ll always remember my roots and be grateful for his teachings,” chef and Seventh Son founder Chui says of his famous father. “I try to maintain the quality of the food in the restaurant by adhering to my father’s techniques and to the high quality of ingredients he used.”
Chui started as an apprentice cook at Fook Lam Moon at the age of 14 and within six years took over the position of head chef, before eventually establishing Seventh Son in 2013. His most popular dishes include such traditional Cantonese favourites as crispy chicken, barbecue suckling pig and bird’s-nest broth with fresh crabmeat.
[inline-quote author="Founder Chui Wai Kwan"]"“Seeing my employees working hard and customers coming back are what I enjoy.”"[/inline-quote]
Despite his restaurant being included in the Michelin guide and having received one star for its Shanghai branch, Chui values the recognition from his customers even more. “Their satisfaction and recognition is the most crucial thing for me,” he says.
Chui also hopes that the rest of the world will come to appreciate his style of food. “I think the future of Cantonese cuisine will develop towards Guangzhou,” he says, “as more new talented chefs come from the area.”
Seventh Son, 3/F, The Wharney Guang Dong Hotel, 57 - 73 Lockhart Road, Wan Chai; +852 2892 2888
Lei Garden
[caption id="attachment_148291" align="alignnone" width="853"] Seafood soup with deep-fried rice and minced meat[/caption]
Founded in 1973, Lei Garden has grown into one of the largest Cantonese restaurant groups in Asia, with 25 outlets in Hong Kong, Macau, mainland China and Singapore.
Founder and chairman Chan Shu Kit is dedicated to delivering a seamless Cantonese dining experience. Over the decades, his chefs have invented thousands of new dishes and recipes. Most notable among them is XO sauce, first created by Lei Garden in 1983 with a blend of conpoy, ham and shrimp roe, and its world-famous chilled mango pudding, created in 1987 and featuring grapefruit and sago.
Of its 11 branches in Hong Kong, seven are featured in the Michelin guide with the original Mong Kok location and Kwun Tong earning a coveted star for “Cantonese fare reliably cooked with fresh ingredients” and recommended dishes such as double-boiled teal with Cordyceps militaris and fish maw.
Chan works tirelessly to ensure that all of his restaurants focus on the customer first and foremost. “Setting noble goals, studying hard, being a good person and doing good deeds” – this is the motto Chan learned from his father and that he’s ingrained in everyone who works for him.
Lei Garden; multiple locations.
T'ang Court
[caption id="attachment_148295" align="alignnone" width="853"] T'ang Court Executive Chef Wong Chi Fai[/caption]
Wong Chi Fai started cooking for a simple yet wonderfully obvious reason – his love of eating. Despite the long hours and harsh conditions of working in a Chinese kitchen, his efforts quickly paid off with recognition from diners and industry peers alike.
“When I first joined T’ang Court, I soaked the sea cucumber for too long and it turned to jelly,” the executive chef says, laughing. “Luckily, Chef Kwong, the head chef at the time, taught me and made sure I did it right the next time. He once said that a small improvement in your dishes every day is already way better than no improvement at all. This is also my motto when it comes to the milestones I’ve achieved through the years.”
Those milestones include three Michelin stars and a Hong Kong’s Best of the Best Culinary Award. At T’ang Court, Wong focuses on authentic Cantonese cuisine, such as sweet and sour pork with fresh fruit, and braised sliced pork with preserved vegetables.
“Unlike other Cantonese restaurants that emphasise fusion and presentation, we focus on the aroma and the taste of the food,” he says. “In traditional Cantonese cooking, we use the maximum heat to cook ingredients in a limited time. That’s why it’s extremely difficult to control the degree of doneness of the food. You need to be very experienced in order to get the hang of it.”
That’s not to say Wong is averse to innovation. “In order to cater to the tastes of younger customers, we use ingredients from around the world,” he says. “Like in our stir-fried beef, we use the traditional style of stir-frying with wagyu from Japan, which is popular nowadays.”
T'ang Court, 1/F The Langham Hong Kong, 8 Peking Road, Tsim Sha Tsui; +2132 7898
The Chairman
[caption id="attachment_148294" align="alignnone" width="853"] The entrance to The Chairman[/caption]
Tucked away on a side street in Central, The Chairman has quickly moved up the rankings of the region’s best restaurants since its opening 10 years ago, including the 11th spot on this year’s Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants.
Chef Kwok Keung Tung, whose signature dish is steamed flowery crab in aged Shaoxing wine and chicken oil with flat rice noodles, believes that the simplest food demands the highest level of culinary skill.
He and his team also pride themselves on sourcing all ingredients locally, whether hand-picking seafood at Aberdeen Fish Market each morning, growing vegetables at their organic farm in Sheung Shui or buying pork and chicken from suppliers in the New Territories. As legendary chef Ferran Adrià once described it, this is “the future of Chinese food”.
The Chairman, 18 Kau U Fong, Central; +852 2555 2202
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10 Best Menus for Valentine’s Day
As the saying goes, “the way to a man’s (and woman’s) heart is through their stomach”, but most would agree that dining out on Valentine’s Day can be pretty unpleasant: The restrictive prix-fixe menus, overly inflated prices and swarm of couples seem reason enough to stay in. This year, we’ve made going out simple with our list of the best restaurants setting their tables to serve romantic dinners -- without any of the annoyances.
Arbor
Best for: Statement Splurge
Earning its recent Michelin star in the same year of its opening, Arbor is the perfect setting for an indulgent celebration. For this special occasion, Chef de Cuisine, Eric Räty has designed a red-themed 8-course menu blending French culinary techniques and premium Japanese ingredients such as oysters, sea urchin, Wagyu beef and the famously prized Amaou strawberries of Fukuoka — all best enjoyed alongside the sweeping views of Hong Kong’s cityscape.
HK$2,888 + 10% per person (including a glass of rosé champagne)
Arbor, 25/F, H Queen’s, 80 Queen’s Road Central, Hong Kong; +852 3185 8388
BEDU
Best for: Casual Vibes
The night kicks off with a complimentary glass of prosecco followed by a four-course dinner of Middle Eastern flavours. The casual chic interior with laidback vibes is ideal for those who are looking for a relaxed and intimate evening. The meal begins with the blushing Beetroot and mint Labneh, Slow baked salmon with tahini yoghurt, Charred cauliflower served with hazelnut dukkah, and is finally finished on a sweet note with the all-new White chocolate clafoutis presented with homemade honeycomb and topped with pistachio ice-cream.
February 14: HK$400 per person
In celebration of love, BEDU will donate HK$25 from every meal to support local charity “Pink Alliance” that promotes equal rights for the LGBTI community.
BEDU, 40 Gough Street, Central, Hong Kong; +852 2320 4450
Café Gray Deluxe
Best for: Skyline Views
Enjoy a traditional candlelit dining experience with breathtaking views at Café Gray Deluxe. The modern European dinner takes the restaurant’s most popular dishes to curate an exciting menu that won’t disappoint, and includes its signature dishes like the Seared tuna with garlic ponzu, Oscietra caviar with seaweed oil, Toothfish with Champagne froth and sweet potato gnocchi, Coffee rubbed short rib with smoked Sichuan pepper and baked turnip, and its decadent Strawberry pavlova with mascarpone mousseline and Rosé Champagne sorbet. The five-course menu served after 8:30pm includes an additional dish of Lobster consommé with crab ravioli and pickled radish.
February 14: Four-course menu at HK$1,150 (from 6pm to 8pm); Five-course menu at HK$1,550 per person (from 8:30pm onwards) + 10% per person
Café Gray Deluxe, Level 49, The Upper House, 88 Queensway, Admiralty, Hong Kong; +852 3968 1106
Chaiwala
Best for: Spice Seekers
Tucked underground behind British salon Hugger Mugger is the vibrant and colourful Chaiwala, offering flavourful and exotic flavours from India. Culinary Director Balaji Balachander selects five signature dishes including Pani Puri, Aloo Tikka Chaat, Old Delhi butter chicken, to bring to its diners a tantalising Valentine’s curation. The Lover’s cocktail, a twist on the classic Gin & Tonic is also available to mark the romantic occasion.
February 14: Five-course menu at HK$520 per person; Lover’s limited edition cocktail at HK$120.
Chaiwala, Basement, 43 – 55 Wyndham Street, Central, Hong Kong; +852 2362 8988
Fumi
Best for: Seafood Lovers
Hidden on the sixth floor of the California Tower, modern-Japanese haven FUMI is offering an eight-course dinner menu for the most romantic time of the year. Guests can expect a delicately prepared menu featuring premium ingredients such as the lobster and sea urchin salad straight from the Hokkaido seas, Chef’s selection of fresh toro, Hokkaido botan shrimp, striped jack and alfonsino sashimi, as well as grilled yellowtail with Kyoto green pepper and Wagyu beef cheek to name a few.
February 14: Eight-course menu at HK$1,402 +10% for two guests
Fumi, 6/F, California Tower, 30 D’Aguilar Street, Central, Hong Kong; +852 2328 3302
Hugo’s
Best for: Timeless Ambiance
Celebrating its 50thanniversary, Hugo’s at the Hyatt Regency is one of the city’s most reputable restaurants when it comes to old Hong Kong western dining. Decorated with armour, mirrors, chandeliers and shield plaques, the décor exudes a warm and enchanting European drawing room. The Valentine’s Day menu at Hugo’s includes Hokkaido scallops three ways, Spanish Barabineros prawns, Basil foam soup as starters, which are followed by two mains of pan-fried Atlantic halibut and US bison tournedos with foie gras, and finally finished with a sweet yet delicate wild strawberry and pomegranate parfait.
February 14: Six-course menu at HK$1,488 + 10% per person with a complimentary glass of Champagne.
Hugo’s, Hyatt Regency, 18 Hanoi Road, Tsim Sha Tsui; +852 3721 7733
Le 39V x Inakaya
Best for: Weekenders
Living the Hong Kong life means that evenings may be sacrificed. That, or maybe the crowd on 14 February is just not your scene. Regardless of your reasons, Le 39V has partnered with Inakaya to bring lovers together for a boozy weekend brunch instead. Marrying French and Japanese flavours, the brunch offers guests a seafood starter of two-way oysters, sashimi and tempura, a main course of teppanyaki with a choice of lobster and sushi or abalone and A5 wagyu. Indulge to your hearts’ content with a wide spread of unlimited cheese and desserts at the buffet station, with drink packages available for add on depending on your mood.
February 10 or February 17: HK$800 with free flow options of HK$100 for juice/soft drinks, HK$280 for select red/white wine, sake and champagne, or HK$380 for all beverages + 10% per person.
Le 39V, 1 Austin Road West, West Kowloon, Hong Kong; +852 2977 5266
Los Sotano
Best for: Singles
The team at Los Sotano knows that Valentine’s Day isn’t just a celebration for lovers, but everyone, so the underground upscale Mexican eatery and mezcal lounge will transform itself from its early evening restaurant into Lan Kwai Fong’s most happening party for singles. After 10pm, the music goes up and the lights go down, with cocktails and matchmaking games to set the stage for the perfect meet-cute.
February 14 10pm until late
Los Sotano, 21 D’Aguilar Street, Central, Hong Kong; +852 2970 3887
T’ang Court
Best for: Asian Flavours
Spoil the one you love with an unconventional Valentine’s Day dinner at the three Michelin-starred Cantonese dining lounge. Apart from the restaurant’s most famous dishes like the Roasted suckling pig, Braised dried abalone with Bence-de-Mer, Chef Kwong and Chef Wong have included nourishing courses such as the Double-boiled sea whelk, fish maw and chicken soup and Imperial bird’s nest with almond juice, thoughtfully befitting the cooler weather this time of year.
February 14: Six-course menu at HK$1,888 + 10% per person
T’ang Court, The Langham Hong Kong, 8 Peking Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, Hong Kong; +852 2132 7898
Tate Dining Room & Bar
Best for: A Romantic Atmosphere
The Michelin-starred Chef Vicky Lau is known for her “edible stories” — creating meals inspired by her artistic expression and creative intuition. As always, she creates dishes that pay homage to culinary elements, and for the case of Valentine’s Day, her menu is an ode to special seasonal ingredients. The nine-course dinner highlights her rendition of Pâte-en-croûte, oysters, kumquat, seabass, Alaskan king crab rolls, French pigeon, tofu and pu’er, red fruits and ends with a special mignardise surprise.
February 14: Nine-course menu at HK$1,980 for two; 6-glass wine pairing available at HK$880 or 3-glass wine pairing available at HK$530 + 10%
Tate Dining Room & Bar, 210 Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong; +852 2555 217
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