Celebrity Life

British heritage brand Justerini & Brooks comes to the rescue to help us pick the perfect festive wines for this season's parties.

Established in 1749, Justerini & Brooks is Britain's oldest continuous fine wine and spirits merchant and the largest UK importers of fine wines from Barolo, Germany and Burgundy. We speak to director of buying Giles Burke-Gaffney about the brand's past, future and festive wines.

The festive season is fast approaching. How do you usually help clients to select the perfect wine or spirit for each occasion?

The approach is fairly simple. At Justerini & Brooks, we remain close to our customers. Getting to know them and our growers is integral to the advice we are able to give on drinking and collecting. For us, it’s all about a personal approach to our customers’ likes in terms of flavour, style and the occasion. We do have a diverse portfolio of over 4,500 wines, so there is always something new that has a story to be told. Our customers trust and enjoy our recommendations, particularly at this time of year, where they can share stories and unearthing new producers.

Are you observing any wine or spirit trends for this season?

Classics are as popular as ever. When I say classics, I mean wines from Bordeaux and Burgundy. Their popularity has always been ahead of other regions, and also a reliable choice for any occasion. But if you're looking at new things, I think Piedmontese wines have been coming up for a long time now and I think the quality is better than ever and there's more choice than ever before, more and more of our customers are getting into it.

I think there's also a lot of exciting winemaking talent coming out of Spain, and especially from the US as well. Aside from wine, I think the demand for whisky is also just incredible. I mean for really rare, single cask bottlings.

Your customer base is getting younger. How have you been adapting throughout time to stay relevant?

We have certainly become more digital-focused and that was important particularly for how we were able to connect our growers to our global customers throughout the pandemic. But we are also just constantly evolving the way in which we talk to our customers through social media and online events. There are more people that are younger and more informed about wine than ever before and we've always tried to focus our attention on is talking to passionate wine drinkers.

Does the digital world play an important role for your business?

I think you're never going to be able to replace being with people and tasting wine, enjoying wine with food. That will always be the most important form of introducing people into wine. But I think platforms such as Instagram and YouTube play an important part in tapping into the discovery of this world of wine.

In this regard, how did Justerini & Brooks adapt throughout the pandemic?

We had to move very quickly. As I mentioned earlier, what our customers love is their ability to connect directly with our winemakers themselves. And we did this through a series of online events and webinars for our customers and those new to us. Ordinarily, our physical events would be local and capped at 200 guests for big tastings. But online, we had a larger and more international reach.

Top Festive Wines Recommendations by Justerini & Brooks

Clos des Goisses, Brut, Philipponnat, 2011

Something of a collector’s item in that this is the first rendition of Clos des Goisses that has been produced entirely from Pinot Noir. The growing season was complicated in 2011; after a warm and early start things became more turbulent throughout summer, before warmth returned in August. Harvest was early and required plenty of selection – a challenge for large scale operators, more manageable for small plots like Goisses. The result is a fascinating rendition of this great vineyard; fine boned, complex and nimble, with a beautifully clean fresh bay leaf scented, rather grown up nose that is punctuated with notes of ginger, orange zest, cool spice and fine floral notes.

Corton, Grand Cru, Chateau de Meursault, 2017

Complete Corton seduction. Rich, soft, creamy fruit. A suave Corton of elegance. Oozing ripe kirsch and griotte fruit, with a note of damson that glide smoothly across your palate. Enveloping and caressing. A Corton of great class and elegance from a single parcel situated above Corton Vergennes.

Puligny Montrachet, Champs Canet, 1er Cru, Château de Meursault, 2017

Tactile and smooth. Lush Meursault-esque flavours but still showing Puligny traits such as focus and fine minerality. Buttery golden fruit notes of yellow plum, mirabelle, quince and citrus with a subtle but important mineral backdrop providing the wine with dimension and zip. Full, unctuous and complex but plenty lively enough. Puligny of stature. From a 0.5 hectare parcel of old vines next door to Meursault Perrières.

Barolo, Cerequio, Roberto Voerzio, 2013

A wine that is all about texture and smooth ripe berry fruit, a little closed initially but the structure of the wine is gloriously silky and the fruit impressively ripe, notes of griotte cherry, kirsch, strawberry and truffle. A very concentrated Barolo of lightness and intensity. One of the historic single vineyards of La Morra, south-facing and planted at 300 metres above sea level on sandy clay soils. On average 300 cases per year are produced.

Château Pichon Longueville Baron, 2ème Cru Classé, Pauillac, 2018

We were really impressed by Christian Seeley and team's effort. It is still modern, flamboyant and big, but there is a precision, focus and taut muscularity that makes this really compelling. We tasted this twice with similar results. Initially introspective, then it begins to reveal beautiful floral griotte fruit and ripe damsons. This is much more classical and restrained than recent efforts. There's nothing blousy here, it's all cool cassis and minerals; generous but no excess.

Château Rieussec, 1er Cru Classé, Sauternes, 2016

Probably the biggest and most concentrated Sauternes of 2016, without being the sweetest or most viscous - vitally. Huge amounts of dry extract, earth and woody spice notes of licquorice, vanilla and spice, mixed with apricot jam and truffle in the background. 140 g / l of residual sugar. Immense flavours. 83% Semillon, 12% Sauvignon blanc and 5% Muscadelle.

Bodegas Tradicion, Palo Cortado, VORS, 30 Years, NV

Palo Cortado is perhaps the most elusive of Sherry categories and the rarest of the dry wine styles. Here the aim is a wine that sits between the elegance of an Amontillado and the rich complexity of an Oloroso. Ageing takes place under flor for between 4 weeks and six months, after which the wines age oxidatively and without flor, in a solera for up to 40 years. The result is glorious, purring with long complex supple flavours of hazelnut, orange zest, and salt, with golden tobacco, roasted apple, almond notes in the background and a strong suggestion of olive and sea salt on the finish. Rancio complexity in a silken glove of a wine; of 150 fino casks, 8 are selected for Palo Cortado, a number whittled down to just 2 after one year in the solera.

To find out more about Justerini & Brooks and their selection visit their catalogue

Justerini & Brooks Hong Kong, 15th Floor, No 5B-6A, The Centrium, 60 Wyndham Street, Central; +852 3628 3627

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The Macallan and Bentley Motors are working in a partnership towards a mutual vision of sustainability. The influential women working behind the scenes discuss learning from each other.

In a partnership announced earlier this year between two historic British brands, The Macallan and Bentley Motors have joined forces to build their vision of a more sustainable future. In a series of conversations between key figures from both brands, Kirsteen Campbell, Master Whisky Maker at The Macallan, and Maria Mulder, Head of Colour and Trim at Bentley, discuss issues of sustainability, the environment and the future of their respective industries.

The Macallan and Bentley Motors Join Forces

From the perspectives of design and craftsmanship, what are the most critical points for brands to consider in terms of sustainability?

MARIA MULDER: There’s a balance between sourcing amazing sustainable materials and using materials that will stand the test of time. Longevity is critical to us; it’s no use in ethical and sustainable procurement if a material is only going to last a few years before it needs to be replaced. We invest time to diligently research materials that tick the boxes of luxury, sustainability, authenticity and innovation. Once we achieve this balance, exceptional design and craftsmanship come easily – they’re areas we’ve mastered over the past century and still treasure today.

KIRSTEEN CAMPBELL: Everything we do fuses techniques and crafts of the past with present-day progress and development. This naturally applies to the creation of our singlemalt Scotch whiskies and continues on to our packaging, where we have a responsibility to balance luxury with a need to protect the planet, as well as the suppliers we work with. One recent example is The Macallan

Red Collection, a range of rare single-malt Scotch whiskies. Featuring some of the oldest whiskies, each expression is encased in an oak presentation box created from the same sustainable European oak used for The Macallan’s casks. The boxes are beautifully upholstered with sustainably sourced soft red leather from the Scottish supplier Bridge of Weir Leather, which also creates upholstery for leading luxury car brands such as Bentley. Bridge of Weir Leather was recently revealed to have the lowest carbon footprint of any leather producer in the world.

Does this partnership help set a precedent on how different industries can use their creativity to move towards a more sustainable society?

MM: It’s a unique experience for two brands from contrasting industries and sectors to work together to share learnings on sustainability. We hope this collaboration will help to inspire expectations among customers of luxury products, who’ll demand more in terms of sustainability standards from all the brands they consume.

KC: We believe sustainability can be a driver of innovation. It’s not something we can do alone, and we collaborate with partners – like Bentley Motors – to achieve our ambitious goals, whether that be widening access to a global network of sustainable suppliers or being inspired by innovative development of sustainable materials. By linking with Bentley, we can fuse traditional craftsmanship and state-of-the art engineering to push the boundaries of innovation in our industry, while still being genuinely sustainable.

How will the partnership with Bentley inspire your vision in terms of craftsmanship and sustainability?

KC: As we look towards the future, both The Macallan and Bentley understand the value of exchanging knowledge, sharing in innovation and working together to tackle challenges. We’re both brands with a long-standing heritage of creating quality products that place an emphasis on craftsmanship, creativity and innovation, so there’s a natural alignment with our DNA and values.

At the heart of this partnership is a commitment to create a space for the open exchange of knowledge, which will allow both brands to learn from each other, uncovering innovations that benefit the communities around us. When I work with the Whisky Mastery Team to bring to life new expressions, this brings out the more creative side of my role, when my “arty” side comes into play – just as an artist or designer works with colours to create images that are appealing to the eye, I work with mixing flavours in a way that’s is appealing to the palette. I’m inspired to learn more from Maria about her processes, from a limitless palette of colour to how she unlocks incredible combinations of colour and sustainable materials.

MM: We’re in the early stages of a partnership that we hope will span many years. At present, we’re still learning from each other and planning the ways we’ll create extraordinary products and experiences together.

What shared values do both bring to this partnership – and are there any differences between the two industries that need to be bridged?

MM: Both our businesses are intently focused on creating excellence and always being the best in our fields. Rich storytelling is an integral part of the identities of both brands – we each have captivating heritage, vivid imaginations and a clear vision for future innovation that translate into
a stories-led approach to everything we create.

KC: Like The Macallan, Bentley Motors represents the very best in craftsmanship, creativity and innovation – and we share a mutual goal to drive forward our sustainability journey to protect the planet, its people and the communities around us. Collaborating with a partner from a different industry will only accelerate this progress. Working with Bentley Motors will allow us to see things differently and work in a different way.

I’m excited to see where the journey will take us. And lastly, how would you encourage other women to reach their goals, given your positions within traditionally male-dominated industries?

MM: My advice is to be brave and confident with your knowledge – and even though you may see places where someone like you isn’t represented, this becomes an opportunity. The glass ceiling will only continue to exist if we’re not brave enough to push past it.

KC: It’s exciting to be part of The Macallan’s story as the first woman to be Master Whisky Maker and custodian for The Macallan since it was established almost 200 years ago. Becoming a whisky maker takes passion, hard work and dedication, as well as natural sensory ability and it’s a fantastic role for both men and women. Globally more women are enjoying whisky and I’m pleased to have witnessed a shift in whisky being perceived as a spirit only consumed by men. There’s also a growing number of women working in whisky making, and I’m pleased to be part of this. I hope this inspires other women to challenge perceptions in the whisky industry.

Find out more here

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You know what they say – diamonds are forever. Here's everything new in jewellery that we're coveting for winter this year.

Chaumet: Taille Impératrice Cut Diamonds

High-jewellery house Chaumet has made a major breakthrough in diamond cutting, creating a new patented diamond cut called Taille Impératrice, featuring 88 facets for maximum brilliance and scintillation. The 88 facets are each individually shaped by hand, combining a hexagonal form with a star-shaped crown. The Taille Impératrice diamond cut makes an appearance in new jewellery pieces in the Bee My Love collection.

Philips: Flawless X Vivarium, New Modernism

Phillips Flawless’s online selling exhibition features 27 lots by 16 jewellery designers of the 20th and 21st centuries to celebrate the centenary of the Modernist Movement. There are exceptional pieces from Aldo Cipullo and Dinh Van, who designed for Cartier in the 1970s, as well as a beautiful brass-and-steel pin from the 1930s designed by Alexander Calder. New Modernism is a wonderful ode to the strong connection between jewel and art and paints a pretty picture of how abstract modernist designs makes for beautiful contemporary jewellery.

De Beers: The 1888 Master Diamonds

The 1888 Master Diamonds is De Beers’ latest offering of rare and exceptional loose diamonds, ranging from 5 to over 26 carats, which are sourced from its mines in Botswana and Canada. The diamond’s journey is extremely precious to De Beers, which showcases to its clients through images and videos the transformation of its 1888 Master Diamonds, from roughs through to the cutting and polishing stages.

Nalas x Kröller-Müller Museum

Jewellery brand Nalas has collaborated with the Kröller-Müller Museum in the Netherlands to launch an original art jewellery series called Shining Stars, inspired by Vincent Van Gogh’s Trilogy of the Starry Nights’ Terrace of a Café at Night (Place du Forum), 1888, to be sold with its NFT at auction. The earrings, featuring more than 200 diamonds, was sold at Sotheby’s Magnificent Jewels: Part II in October.

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The Sixteenth, an 18,000 square feet, 400-seater destination, is the largest multi-concept restaurant development on the eastern corridor, conceived by co-founder Manuel Palacio, and designed in-house by Pirata Group's Archie Haig and team.

"No one can travel, so everyone in Hong Kong is craving new experiences now," declares Manuel Palacio, co-founder of Pirata Group. "When we first saw the venue, we realised that we were in a position to push the envelope of dining experiences for consumers in the city. So that's what we did."

Everything You Need to Know About The Sixteenth

La Favorita

The first restaurant concept you'll encounter is La Favorita, a theatrical trattoria that pays homage to Palacio's first experience in an Italian restaurant, recalling the flamboyance of Italian opera houses in the 1960s.

"We have these lovely drapes, the graphic carpets and two private rooms for a more intimate experience," says Archie Haig, Senior Interior Designer.

"Expect an elevated dining experience that's a bit more complete than, say, Pici," adds Andrea Viglione. True to his word, the menu here features dishes that's a bit more bougie — handmade Lobster Tagliatelle, Cheese Wheel al Tartufo and, of course, a 1kg Bistecca alla Fiorentina.

Honjokko

"We're calling this our Sushi Club," says Dan Segall, Culinary Director of the two Japanese concepts. "This is the Honjo menu expanded: We'll have a full omakase experience, but aside from that, expect lots of delicate, artful bites, grilled items and more."

Look up and you'll notice the delicate Japanese umbrella — wagasa — inspired ceiling features, hand painted screens by the local team at Elsa Jeandedieu Studio, and tables covered in luxurious ostrich hide. You'll find a cosy bar tucked away in the corner, as well as a private room that seats 24, ideal for more exclusive birthday or family events.

Tempo Tempo

Tempo Tempo, their vast terrazza, sets the ideal scene for il dolce far niente — the joy of doing nothing. What you get is just that: A leafy, lush al fresco slice of paradise set amidst the towering cityscape; a verdant garden lined with lemon trees to boot.

"We wanted to create a vibe here that is great for not only after-meal drinks, but also to bring a little more to your after-work experience," says Haig.

TMK Funk & Rolls

Finally, at the end of the main corridor, you'll find the soulful third iteration of the music-inspired temakeria, TMK — this time with a distinct focus on funk. Designed with references and giving tribute to the recording studios of funk and soul legends such as James Brown and Marvin Gaye, the interiors were meticulously curated to honour the greats of this rhythmic genre.

TMK Funk & Rolls is a fun, casual concept that marries Japanese-American cuisine with a decidedly kanpei attitude to while the night away. Menu items include classic handrolls, temakis, nori bowls and, of course, sushi and sashimi.

Why the name, you might ask?

"It's not because it's our 16th outlet — which I know is what a lot of people assume. We're actually way past that number," laughs Palacio. "It's actually a geographical reference. The name is meant to pay homage to the districts in Hong Kong: Of the 18 districts in the city, the Eastern district is the 16th."

The Sixteenth is currently in soft opening, with the grand opening date set in mid-November.

The Sixteenth, 2/F Oxford House, Taikoo Place, 979 King’s Road, Quarry Bay, +852 2788 3011

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As Chaumet's CEO Jean-Marc Mansvelt tells us, bringing the house's 240-year heritage into the modern era is an immense task that amounts to a "daily obsession". But if the new pieces in the Chaumet Joséphine collection are anything to go by, the Place Vendôme stalwart is heading in the right direction.

What kind of woman today does the Joséphine collection appeal to?

First, it’s about a woman with a certain character. Because when you choose to wear a tiara on your finger, you’re making a choice of distinction, a choice of character. You’re sending a message to say you’re not like everyone else and you have a certain strength and a certain personality. But also a sense of virtuosity, grace and beauty, because it’s not for women who want to be too provocative.

It’s a way to set your personality. And then of course, there are two major reasons to become a client of Joséphine. On one side, it remains one of the favourite pieces chosen for a bridal purpose. It’s connected to the initial history of Chaumet, the history of the power and love between Napoleon and Joséphine. And Napoleon is known everywhere, that’s incredible. There’s another type of client on the other side of the connection with the pearls, the coloured stones, something a bit easier and more accessible.

This year, Chaumet's creations have also incorporated sleeker, more modern takes on the tiara. Can you tell us a bit about the new high jewellery?

After many creations that were a bit more tiara-like, a bit more decorative, more visible, more baroque in a certain way, we wanted to enrich the collection with new ways to mix and match, and to go for designs that were slicker, with a more minimalist approach, because that’s also the style of today. We have a feeling that clients today are a little more understated, and we have the capacity to create beauty through a fine line, rather than an accumulation. So one of our high- jewellery pieces, which is sort of a V with a stone in suspension, doesn’t shout about its design. It’s all about balance.

This year is the 10th anniversary of the Joséphine collection...

But we don’t mark it that way for two reasons. I always feel that if you start doing anniversaries for everything, then at the end, what’s the meaning in it? Last year, when we did the 240 years of Chaumet, that was slightly different. For Chaumet, our heritage is much longer than a decade, it’s about centuries. Instead, this year, we’re celebrating our connection with the 200th anniversary of the death of Napoleon, which is significant in Europe and in France. We’ve done an exhibition at 12 Place Vendôme that was open to the public which tells the love story of Napoleon and Josephine through 150 different objects, beautiful loans from museums and private owners.

Which piece proved to be the most challenging piece in the collection?

The most discussed and the most debated one was the watch. Because we’re clearly a jeweller, and we’ve focused all our efforts and attention on jewellery. But since a few years ago, we’ve reassessed and repositioned what watches mean for Chaumet. It’s true that with the business of watches within Chaumet, we’ve really tried to be coherent with what the story of watchmaking for Chaumet is as a jeweller. One of our challenges was to look at the market – in the market, 90 percent of watches are round – and nobody’s waiting for Chaumet to create a round watch, because we already have thousands of beautiful options on the market.

We decided on a shaped watch, and it wasn’t very difficult to settle on the pear shape, like an illusion of a diamond. We also faceted the watch’s dial.

How do you balance 240 years of heritage behind a brand and stay relevant at the same time?

That’s really the obsession every single day. How do we continue the narrative, the link to the story? Since the pandemic, we’ve seen clients choose Chaumet because there’s longevity. And so it becomes a daily obsession of ours to convey this message to our clients through different means, including the digital approach, so we can speak to the needs of our audience today. We also go through the traditional channels and have books and exhibitions. I regularly write down on paper in two columns: on one side, how much do we tell the story of Chaumet, and on the other, how do we take a contemporary approach, either through the narrative or through using different tools? I take a step back and ask myself is there a balance? If we’re going too much in one direction, maybe it’s time to rebalance. It’s in everything we do.

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The first Grand Cru in Alsace was the Schlossberg of Kaysersberg, a sort of trial balloon for the category that began back in 1975. Since then, 50 more Grands Crus have come into being. James Suckling takes a closer look at the top 10 Grand Cru wine bottles.

When it comes to French wines, the term Grand Cru has a magical connotation. But just how magical the name of a particular Grand Cru vineyard and the wines named after it really depend enormously on the region. Both in terms of reputation and to your wallet, it makes a huge difference if a Grand Cru white wine is from Burgundy or Alsace.

Let me give a few concrete examples. The world’s most expensive dry white wine is the Montrachet Grand Cru from Domaine Leflaive in Burgundy, which Wine-Searcher prices at US$12,750 for the 2015 vintage (the latest available) and US$19,590 for the 2014. In contrast, even the most expensive Grand Cru wines from Alsace are those from the Rangen Grand Cru site in the commune of Thann, produced by Domaine Zind Humbrecht, and they lie at just under $100 for the 2019 vintage. That’s a more than a hundred-fold price difference.

The question is whether that price difference is reflected in the wine quality. For us, the answer is… not necessarily. Sure, the best Grand Cru dry whites from Burgundy are amazing wines, and for sommeliers and collectors around Planet Wine, they remain the benchmark for the chardonnay grape. The Montrachet Grand Cru is an example of how enormous global demand for a very limited production combined with high-quality results in stratospheric prices for certain Burgundian Grand Cru wine.

For Alsace, demand is almost never as great, but what about quality? Recently, we tasted the 2018 and 2019 vintages of the Rangen Grand Cru wines from Zind Humbrecht and rated them every bit as high as the best Grand Cru whites of Burgundy. This situation creates a golden opportunity for savvy consumers, and our Top 10 is designed to help you make the most of it.

There’s another important reason to take these wines seriously. Many consumers wonder what the “mineral character” that sommeliers and wine critics often talk about tastes like. Alsace Grand Cru is an ideal way to find out.

The hashtag #alsacerocks is a marketing tool for the region’s wines, but it fits, because the best Alsace Grand Cru have intense notes of flint, chalk, wet stones and dry earth. This, together with the combination of generosity and freshness typical for Alsace whites, makes them a special category.

“A true Grand Cru is a singularity of character with consistently high quality,” says Marie Zusslin, from Domaine Valentin Zusslin. “That’s why my idea is to show the uniqueness of each site.” Her Riesling Alsace Grand Cru Pfingstberg 2017 is a magnificent expression of this idea.

“Alsace has enormous geological diversity within a small area, and each Grand Cru has its own identity,” Eric Kientzler of the Kientzler estate in Ribeauville told me. “For example, the wines from our three riesling Grand Crus are very different, though the Osterberg, Kirchberg de Ribeauville and Geisberg sites are neighbours.” With its combination of elegance and minerality, his Riesling Alsace Grand Cru Kirchberg de Ribeauville 2018 is an ideal introduction to the Alsace Grand Cru category.

Alsace Grands Crus are nearly always varietal whites, with the variety named on the label: gewurztraminer, muscat, pinot gris or riesling. Riesling is the most successful grape for Alsace Grand Cru in the market because these wines are always dry and their bright acidity accentuates this.

For us the Domaine Weinbach Riesling Alsace Grand Cru Schlossberg Cuvée Ste Catherine is a near-perfect example of an Alsace Grand Cru, combining mineral subtlety with great concentration and length.

Top 10 Alsace Grand Cru Wines

These wines that exemplify the greatness of Alsace Grand Cru are all either currently in the market or about to appear.

DOMAINE WEINBACH RIESLING ALSACE GRAND CRU SCHLOSSBERG CUVÉE STE CATHERINE 2019

Score: 99

Enveloping, sensual bouquet of a thousand yellow fruits and some wild berries that’s just beginning to reveal its profundity. Gigantic concentration, but this remains as light on its feet as a prima ballerina.

FAMILLE HUGEL RIESLING ALSACE SCHOELHAMMER 2010

Score: 99

One of the world’s unique dry whites. This is so deep and spicy with a ton of candied citrus. Stunning concentration, power and structure on the palate.

DOMAINE ZIND HUMBRECHT PINOT GRIS ALSACE GRAND CRU RANGEN DE THANN CLOS SAINT URBAIN 2019

Score: 98

So spicy and smoky with a hint of mushroom, this is an enormously deep and concentrated dry pinot gris that’s just beginning to open up.

TRIMBACH RIESLING ALSACE GRAND CRU GEISBERG 2014

Score: 98

Aromas of limestone and hints of earth. Wet-morning forest floor. From the vineyards of the convent of Ribeauville, it’s been made separately since 2009. All organically farmed.

DOMAINE VALENTIN ZUSSLIN RIESLING GRAND CRU PFINGSTBERG 2017

Score: 98

Hang your nose into a glass of this astonishing dry white wine and let yourself be swept away in a cloud of smoke. Then, when you’re inside it, the wine’s subtle, citrusy beauty will unfurl and you’ll realise that it can only be riesling.

DOMAINE MARCEL DEISS GRAND CRU SCHOENENBOURG 2017

Score: 98

Super fresh for three years of age — the floral, honey and beeswax aromas are especially enticing. 

DOMAINE PFISTER RIESLING ALSACE GRAND CRU ENGELBERG 2018

Score: 97

A masterpiece of cool elegance, in spite of this being the warmest vintage in living memory! Pristine with crystalline purity and a totally mineral personality.

MURÉ PINOT NOIR CLOS SAINT LANDELIN 2018

Score: 96

The stunning balance of very fine tannins and delicate “sweetness“ that pervades the long, super-silky finish reminds me of Grand Cru Musigny from Burgundy. 

KIENTZLER RIESLING ALSACE GRAND CRU KIRCHBERG DE RIBEAUVILLÉ 2018

Score: 95

A complex and elegant Grand Cru dry riesling with tons of wet-stone character, married to nice lemon and fresh herb aromas.

DIRLER-CADÉ GEWURZTRAMINER ALSACE GRAND CRU SAERING 2018

Score: 94

Tons of spice and Turkish delight here, yet this is anything but opulent. Powerful and rich, but also minerally and properly dry.

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Lovers of the grain will know that one of the paragons of luxury whisky is The Dalmore, a Scottish label with over 180 years of history that takes the proud stag’s head as its symbol. Literally and metaphorically, decades of know-how, culture and craftsmanship have been distilled into this one-of-a-kind release: the six-bottle The Dalmore Decades No 6.

Six exceptional and very limited-quantity single malts tell the story of The Dalmore’s alchemic craft and DNA across six decades, with the youngest being the turn of the millennium and the oldest dating back a remarkable 70 years to 1951.

“Each bottle marks a very special milestone in the brand’s history and has a unique story to tell,” says Dalmore master distiller and pioneer of cask curation Richard Paterson, who over the past 50 years has kept a watchful eye over a rich inventory of rare whiskies, “giving them the guidance to mature and reach their full potential in the finest casks sourced from around the world.”

The Dalmore’s new four-year partnership with the V&A Dundee Museum in Scotland – where they will celebrate their shared values of creativity, design, and vision – marks a new chapter of cultural collaborations at the Highland whisky label.

It kicked off with the premiere of Decades in the Making, a short film starring Japanese starchitect Kengo Kuma, who designed the V&A Dundee, and the Dalmore’s Paterson. Kuma’s protégé Maurizio Mucciola gave an in-person introduction to the remarkable architectural project, which was nine years in the making and is now a modern jewel in the Scottish cityscape.

A tour of the museum was followed by an exceptional VIP dinner and tasting experience that gave a select few a sip of five of the Dalmore Decade single malts. The 1979 in particular, which has matured through a Matusalem Oloroso sherry cask and a Graham’s Port 1952 Vintage cask, is a pure silky-smooth nectar with notes of toasted pistachio, pineapple and dates.

An auction of this exclusive Dalmore Decades No 6 set will take place at Sotheby’s Hong Kong from October 7 to 8 (along with several other collectable Dalmore sets), with a percentage of the sales being donated to the V&A Dundee.

Sotheby Hong Kong, 5/F, One Pacific Place, 88 Queensway; +852 2524 8121

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Most of us know Wil Fang as the founder of Cookie DPT and Carbs. To his friends however, he's a bit of a hoarder. From sneakers and collectibles to a budding watch collection, the connoisseur of classic all-American fare tells us about his collecting habits, his quartet of Rolexes and what makes him tick.

Wil Fang will tell you he’s no watch collector – yet. He’s merely starting out, dipping his toes in. But step through the doors to his apartment that’s decked out in all sorts of collectibles – from Bearbricks to the Mr Moncler figurine created by artist Craig Costello and various Louis Vuitton x Supreme items – and you’ll see telling signs that he has the potential to become a very serious one.

That is, if his sneaker collection is anything to go by. Fang has a room lined with floor-to-ceiling shelving, dedicated to housing his 400-plus pairs of sneakers. At a glance, there are autographed Air Jordans, limited-edition Off-Whites, Fear of God, and more. His collection is still growing; he points to a couple of boxes stacked on a Supreme logo-ed folding chair – “I haven’t worn those yet,” he tells me.

Fang’s interest in sneakers grew from childhood – his first pair of Jordans was from his mother, when he was in third grade. He also has a single Jordan shoe, signed by the entire Chicago Bulls team, which he displays in a glass box.

“I even have a magazine signed by Dennis Rodman, Scottie Pippen and Michael Jordan after they won 72-10,” says Fang, referring to 1995-1996, when the Chicago Bulls set the record for the most wins in an NBA regular season. “I’m a huge Jordan fan and I always wear Jordans. He was my idol growing up.”

But back to watch collecting: “I’ve had quite a few watches, but I’d say the first serious timepiece I own is this Rolex, which my wife gave me on our wedding day,” says Fang.

The watch in question is a Rolex Submariner, in steel with a black dial and bezel. “When my wife got it for me, it wasn’t crazy expensive,” he continues. “Five years ago it wasn’t even difficult to get, like it is today. Things have definitely changed.”

Rolex was the definitive watch of Hong Kong culture, the ultimate milestone watch that you’d get for a special occasion. “It’s almost like the standard entry-level watch here,” says Fang. “Everyone’s got some sort of Rolex, whether it’s a Sub or a Milgauss – for a lot of my friends here, it’s very normal for them to get a Submariner for graduation or when they land their first job.”

The watch Fang got for himself when he got his first pay cheque, however, wasn’t a Rolex. When he graduated with a double major in mechanical engineering and business management from Bucknell University in 2005, he joined Ralph Lauren and was quickly sucked into the company culture.

“We weren’t required to wear any particular uniform, but as a young professional, you see your bosses walking around in suits and nice watches, and you start becoming part of that culture,” Fang recalls. “And, you know, it’s aspirational.”

And soon enough, his interest was piqued. The first watch he bought for himself with his own salary was a TAG Heuer Link chronograph, which he still owns. “In Hong Kong, maybe it’s not a big deal, but back then, when you’re 22 years old in the States, it’s a pretty nice watch. It was a gift to myself.”

Later, as Ralph Lauren ventured into timepieces, Fang also invested in a dress watch. “It was unnecessarily quite expensive,” he says with a chuckle. “It was a Ralph Lauren watch and I probably should have put that money into something else, but it’s a prototype model. It’s definitely sentimental and I’ll never sell it or get rid of it. It’ll stay in my collection.”

Later, Fang’s work brought him to Hong Kong and, in 2016, he found himself in Taipei with a group of friends launching a fashion retail concept store called DPT. “It was one of those dream-come-true situations,” says Fang. “I’m half-Taiwanese and Hong Kong was home, so I was commuting weekly back and forth from Taipei for
two years.”

It was at DPT that Fang’s sneaker collection really flourished. “I’m a sneakerhead,” he says, enthusiastically. “I’ve had sneakers my whole life, but when you open your own shop and brands send you 50 pairs and you could have your first pick, it was like, ‘Oh my God, I’ve made it.’”

Owning the sneakers – and the watches – was only part of the thrill. A huge part of what makes the community so exciting was the hunt for a good bargain, the relationships you build with your authorised dealers, and the full experience of receiving the goods.

“The cool thing about collecting is like, once you have it, you have it, but there’s also a story of how you got them, whether they’re sneakers or watches,” says Fang. “I’ve seen my friends pick up their watches at a VIP house and it’s a great day, you know, everyone’s excited and they come with a bottle of champagne. It’s all part of the process.”

After his wedding Submariner opened the floodgates, Fang picked up a “Panda” Daytona with a black ceramic bezel, an Explorer and a vintage “Pepsi” GMT Master with a faded bezel, explaining that Rolex was an easy entry point to collecting for him. “I like things that are more modern, a bit more subtle and sleek,” he says. “White gold or steel and black. Something that’s very clean and not too flashy.”

“Collecting watches is definitely a more expensive hobby. It’s not like collecting suits or sneakers,” says Fang. “But what I like about it is the community. It’s much smaller, more intimate. I don’t even consider myself a watch collector at this point, but from an interest perspective, I really like the circle. They come from all places – from F&B, fashion, finance, entrepreneurs – you meet so many interesting people through collecting. And a lot of them are successful, so it also gives me the drive and the mentality to work hard in my own businesses too.”

That drive is serving him well. Unfazed by the pandemic, Fang and the DPT Group are launching a takeout pizza business called Carbs – “I’m playing the devil’s advocate,” says Fang.

“Covid isn’t such a happy time but seeing the success of a fast-moving takeout delivery business gives us the confidence that, even in the toughest times, Carbs will be OK.” And how could it not be? Comfort mac-and-cheese, authentic Chicago deep-dish pizzas, fried chicken, and hands-down the best spicy vodka fusilli I’ve tasted. Perhaps as Hong Kong’s appetite for Fang’s goods continues to grow, so will his watch collection.

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