Celebrity Life

For The Glenrothes, there's always more to discover, more to learn, more to master.

Looking beyond the most conspicuous for nuances and ventures others will not dare consider is simply a matter of pride; a matter of curiosity being nurtured and nourished; a matter that begets THE HIDDEN MENU, The Glenrothes' newest partnership with The Ritz-Carlton, Hong Kong’s OZONE.

There’s a saying, as there often is. Something about being lonely at the top; about being amongst rarefied company that’s rarefied to the point of nonexistence. It’s not quite so, however, for The Glenrothes, who finds a compatible bedfellow in The Ritz-Carton's OZONE for a collaboration named with secrecy in tow: THE HIDDEN MENU, a whisky-paired degustation itinerary that aligns the former’s time-forged, age-old whisky alongside ultra-fine gastronomy.

A match made in, well, almost heaven; after all, OZONE continues to hold rank as the highest-altitude bar in the world. 490 metres above sea level will grant you that dignified status.

As with all things worth discovering; worth spending time, effort and attention on, THE HIDDEN MENU is a meticulous labour of love — one curated by Peter Find, Executive Chef of The Ritz-Carlton, Hong Kong. Presenting: A four-course journey that bookends sipping glasses of The Glenrothes whisky — on the menu, fingers split between the 18-Year-Old, Maker’s Cut, 25-Year-Old and the Single Cask #19961 — with delicious bites of food made to harmonise, chef's kiss-style.

For those itching for a taste, here’s what to expect from THE HIDDEN MENU, courtesy of The Glenrothes and OZONE.

Welcome Cocktail: Glimpse of Amber

THE HIDDEN MENU's curtain draws open with an aperitif. To whet the palate! Bespoke for the menu, Glimpse of Amber extends a sunshine-gold welcome, swirling sweetly into an infusion of caramelised banana puree, vanilla pod-laced banana liqueur and The Glenrothes' 12-Year-Old.

First Course: Vanilla and Cinnamon-infused Charcoal Breadcrumb 40°C Confit Salmon with Smoky Melon

A touch of theatrics follows the opening act, arriving encased within a blanket of smoke that, once uncovered, is left to drift. Tendrils of the dish's smoky aroma temper with The Glenrothes' 18-Year-Old, which lands warm on the tongue with a sweet vanilla, pear and fresh ginger profile.

Second Course: Poached Lobster Tail

The second course takes pause. Here is where conflict — all saccharine against umami; spice against cream — arises, lingers and, finally, settles. The Glenrothes Whisky Maker's Cut spills into a rich, complex sip flavoured with tinges of creamy vanilla, candied orange peel and nutmeg; an aroma profile chosen specifically to complement the second course's sweet-meets-savoury bed of chocolate sauce, spicy fig and poached lobster tail.

Main Course: Sous Vide Iberico Pork Tenderloin

Here, the climax. The star of the show; the meat of the matter; the final, toiling climb before the sweet, sweet resolution. The Glenrothes 25-Year-Old's rather treacly tinges of salted caramel, mango and coriander seeds mingle in stride with the main course's accompanying tropical fruits celeriac purée, flavoured, too, with decadent notes of salted caramel.

Dessert: Black Tea Mousse Panna Cotta

Finally, the rolling credits. An Easter egg; the best saved for last paired alongside dessert is The Glenrothes Single Cask #19961 — distilled in 1997, bottled in 2019, with over two decades spent maturing in an American Oak Sherry cask that produced only a mere 580 bottles. On the palate: dark chocolate and black tea, with a finish as sweet as the dessert it's meant to accompany.

The Glenrothes' THE HIDDEN MENU is priced at HK$1,280 per person. Available at The Ritz-Carlton, Hong Kong's OZONE from 1 September to 1 October 2021. Make reservations via the QR code above to unlock a 10% off discount code.

The post Discover The Glenrothes’ THE HIDDEN MENU at OZONE, Available Through September Only appeared first on Prestige Online - Hong Kong.

The famous French wine-producing region produced sterling vintages in 2018 and 2019. Is the latest one equally as good? James Suckling takes a closer look at what the year brought and picks his top bottles.

We all know that the pandemic will make the 2020 vintage particularly memorable, but the vintage in Bordeaux will also be remembered because it produced so many outstanding wines under such challenging circumstances – from logistical shortages to severe drought conditions.

In fact, 2020 is the third outstanding vintage in a row for Bordeaux and marks perhaps the first time the region has experienced such a high-quality trilogy of superlative years.

JamesSuckling.com rated 1,302 barrel samples from the 2020 vintage and conducted almost 40 Zoom calls from Hong Kong with chateau owners and winemakers, and the story behind the 2020 vintage is a fantastic one.

It was not only our biggest en primeur tasting ever but perhaps even the biggest for any wine critic. The outstanding quality of so many of the wines highlights the genius of Bordeaux viticulture and winemaking, as well as the incredible human effort and collective energy it takes to make so many terrific-quality wines.

“You had a new challenge every day, and it could be climatic or it could be sanitary,” says Veronique Sanders, general manager of Château Haut-Bailly, who made one of the best wines of the vintage. “We had to keep our team working and that could be a challenge. Imagine what it was like when France was in lockdown in May and April!”

I think that we’re all going to be excited with what’s eventually bottled in Bordeaux from 2020. The reds show complex and intense aromas as well as bright fruit character, but also floral and earth undertones. This is something you don’t see in such young wine resting in barrels or other vessels in cellars. They also have intense yet fine tannins and relatively fresh acidity. They’re wines that can be consumed relatively young but will age very well after bottling.

Some wines are of really exceptional quality. In fact, I rated 10 wines with possible perfect scores of 99 to 100. That’s the third-highest number of top wines in the last 10 years for my en primeur tastings for Bordeaux and one of the highest in my career of tasting Bordeaux from barrel. By comparison, 2019 had eight wines with 99-to-100 ratings, and 2018 just four.

“We think that the 2020 is the best of the trilogy,” says Florence Cathiard, owner of Château Smith Haut-Lafitte, who made one of her best wines ever. “It has the structure and the typicity of the 2018 and the aromatics of the 2019. So it takes the best of both.”

The best wines of 2020 also have a ripeness but slightly less alcohol than 2019 and 2018, because many wineries picked earlier and extracted less during fermentation and macerations, using lower temperatures and fewer pump-overs.

“It was crazy, crazy,” says Saskia Rothschild, head of the famous first-growth Château Lafite-Rothschild, as well as Château Duhart-Milon and Château L’Évangile. The Lafite only has about 12.8 percent alcohol, a good degree less than most recent high-quality vintages.

“Everyone told us 2020 was hot and we measured the vats and they were like what we knew in the 1990s and 1980s. It’s very surprising. It’s about that paradox [of the vintage] that we talked about.”

The paradox is that Bordeaux experienced one of its most severe droughts ever during the summer, with almost 50 days of no rain – or only a few drops from about mid-June to mid-August. Most winemakers worried that they would have a high-alcohol harvest with shrivelled and sugar-rich grapes.

Yet the wet weather during most of the first half of the year enabled the best vineyards with great soils to maintain moisture. Large amounts of rain came in mid-August, but not enough negatively to affect the quality of the grape crop. The most important precipitation arrived in late September, but many of the top names on the Right Bank had finished their harvest or were very close to ending. This early and dry harvest delivered some impeccable merlot in many estates.

But don’t write off wines with a predominance of cabernet sauvignon in their blends. The cabernets were much smaller than normal, with thick skins, so the rains at the end of September didn’t negatively affect them in many areas or properties.

Moreover, the cabernets in Pessac-Léognan were super in 2020, which is why three out of my top 10 wines were from the appellation.

The question now is whether 2020 is better than 2019 or 2018. My impression after tasting so many barrel samples is that it’s certainly better than 2018 and at least at the same level as 2019 in quality. I’ll have to wait and see the wines in bottle to finally decide how they compare with 2019.

Tasting Notes: Top 10 Bordeaux 2020 Wines

These 10 Bordeaux 2020 wines were rated 99-100 by James Suckling and his tasting team.

CHÂTEAU HAUT-BRION PESSAC-LÉOGNAN 2020

This is a superb Haut-Brion with incredible tannins that are wonderfully fine-grained. It’s really powerful. This is very primary, with so much grape-generated tannin structure.

CHÂTEAU MARGAUX MARGAUX 2020

So floral and perfumed with blackcurrants, blackberries and some asphalt. Full-bodied with super, fine tannins.

CHÂTEAU HOSANNA POMEROL 2020

This shows very intense, old-vine character with bark, black mushroom and dark fruit. Full-bodied and creamy with unique flavours of earth and fruit.

CHÂTEAU LA FLEUR-PÉTRUS POMEROL 2020

Purple berry and blackberry aromas with cracked black pepper, violets and lavender. It’s full-bodied and layered, and broadens in the mouth.

CHÂTEAU LAFITE ROTHSCHILD PAUILLAC 2020

Rather ethereal and so refined, with finesse, focus and brightness that provide incredible energy and pedigree.

CHÂTEAU HAUT-BAILLY PESSAC-LÉOGNAN 2020

This has incredible power and drive, with blackberry, black olive and graphite. It’s full-bodied, yet dynamic and agile, with so much polished and muscular tannin.

CHÂTEAU MOUTON ROTHSCHILD PAUILLAC 2020

This is a great and impressive Mouton with plushness and precision. A million layers of tannins. It’s full and very friendly, even seductive, in a rich and opulent way.

CHÂTEAU TROTANOY POMEROL 2020

A very concentrated Trot with density and depth, the tannins spreading across the palate.

CHÂTEAU SMITH-HAUT-LAFITTE PESSAC-LÉOGNAN 2020

So much blackcurrant, graphite and iodine character. Full-bodied. Incredible quality to the tannins. They’re polished yet powerful.

CHÂTEAU PAVIE ST-ÉMILION 2020

The aromas are already exceptional, showing crushed stone, limestone and salt character to the dark fruit and bark. Floats on the palate.

James Suckling honoured by French Government

In June, James Suckling, noted international wine critic and Prestige's wine correspondent, was honoured by the French Government for his services to the country and its wine industry with the title and rank of Chevalier de l’Ordre Nationale du Mérite. Suckling received the honour — the only time such an award has been bestowed on an Asia-based wine critic — during a ceremony held at the residence of the French consul general in Hong Kong, Alexandre Giorgini.

For more wine reports and ratings, you can visit JamesSuckling.com

The post Best of Wine: The Top 10 Bordeaux Bottles of 2020 appeared first on Prestige Online - Hong Kong.

There are now over a dozen vegan sake breweries certified in Japan — and that number is growing.

In an industry that’s more or less a thousand years old, and likely more ancient than that, it’s only in the last hundred years or so that significant innovations have taken hold within the sake world.

The latest development? More and more brewers have been switching on the green light for vegan sake. For a trade that takes pride in its highly traditional methods and multigenerational management — in many cases crafting their sake beneath centuries old wooden brewery structures — this feels like something really quite progressive. 

But wait, surely all sake is vegan... right? 

Wrong. For the most part, paper micro-filters and charcoal are used during filtration in a process call roka (ろ過) to remove unwanted tinges of colour. However, in some cases, animal-based fining agents are employed in much the same way as they are in the wine industry to adjust the tiny impurities. 

Outside of this, the recipe for brewing sake, or seishu (清酒) to give its legal name in Japanese, is, on the face of it, pretty simple requiring steamed rice, koji and naturally occurring water sourced from underground reserves, snowmelt or streams. 

Koji itself is totally natural, created by propagating koji mold spores onto more of that steamed rice. As Sake Portal notes, premium sake does not contain any additives or preservatives like sulfites, making it one of the cleanest beverage choices in the market. It doesn’t get much purer than that. 

So although this diminutive ingredient list by and large naturally categorises sake as inherently vegan, forward-thinking brewers and organisations have latched onto the need for full customer transparency and have taken things to the logical next step to eliminate any uncertainty.

Certifications are now being granted, where deserved, by NPO VegeProject Japan, a non-profit organisation that is working hard to increase the choices for vegetarians and vegans alike. There are now over a dozen sake breweries certified in Japan — and that number is growing. 

With domestic sales and active brewery numbers continuing to decline, Japanese producers are looking more and more to international sales and market entries. Using vegan certification as a tool to highlight their portfolio as all-natural, these savvy brewers are becoming the global ambassadors for the purity of sake and meeting the demand for a vegan choice in the West. 

For myriad reasons, more and more people are taking the decision to follow a vegan lifestyle. In the UK, a leading vegan market, the numbers have quadrupled from 2014 to 2019. Therefore it comes as no surprise to read that Dojima Sake Brewery, one of only a handful of British sake producers, is now on the country’s Vegan Society certified list, along with four recognised Japanese breweries.

Nanbu Bijin Brewery’s passionate president, Mr Kosuke Kuji, led the successful bid to acquire the very first vegan certification for Sake, both domestically and internationally from Japan’s NPO VegeProject and the UK’s Vegan Society in January 2019. This has played a significant role in securing a buoyant export business across nearly forty markets. 

Also armed with Kosher certification from 2013, Kuji-san is committed to bringing sake to as broad an audience as possible: “It is no exaggeration to say that Japanese sake is the safest and purest alcohol in the world,” his press release reveals. The brewery’s motto is to “Brew sake that makes people smile like bright sunshine,” and it surely does. 

Further south in the middle of Japan’s Honshu Island, Nagai Sake Brewery in Gunma Prefecture would swiftly follow Nanbu Bijin with initially four accredited vegan sakes. The stunning Mizubasho Artist Series was quickly added to this tally and includes a sparkling sake, a still sake and a dessert sake, all designed to pair with a range of global cuisines and dining occasions. 

But there’s a lot more to the wellness story of sake than just this recent vegan impetus. 

Continuing on a less-is-more path, as a rice-based drink, sake is naturally gluten-free which makes it a great option for people who are sensitive to or allergic to the grain protein. Just be sure to avoid that beer chaser. 

Although stopping short of directly advocating sake as a natural medicine, industry sources are plentiful in their probiotic messaging (sake contains lactic acid which assists food digestion). Stats about peptide levels that can ultimately prevent or reduce the onset of Alzheimer’s Disease and high blood pressure are plentiful, as is the wide embrace of sake in beauty elixirs. 

Koji’s innate molecular framework also goes a long way to inhibit the activity of melanin, the main culprit of sunspots, age spots, and freckles. There’s a reason why cosmetics producers use sake and sake kasu (the “lees” by-product of the industry) in the face masks and hand lotions that line the shelves of so many Japanese department stores and pharmacies. 

Rie Yoshitake is a Sake Samurai, part of a small community of individuals recognised by The Japan Sake Brewers Association Junior Council for their love and promotion of Japanese sake around the world. She is also a keen advocate of sake's relationship with skin health: 

“Some people have noticed that their skin seems more moisturized after drinking Sake. In Japan, sake is used in facial toner, and some even like to pour their leftover sake into the bath for a luxury bathing experience," she notes on Sake Samurai UK. 

Better still, perhaps, for those of us who like to indulge a little over the weekend, an article by SAKE TIMES, a Japan-based dual-language publication dedicated to sake, reports that the calorific content of the liquid is not that high. 

Unit-for-unit, you’ll consume just over half the sugar levels compared to beer, and in the neighbourhood of 20% fewer calories. Trouble is, the addictive snacks you’ll be enjoying with your sake might well balance things out, so if that's a concern, reach for the edamame rather than the reassuring crunch of good chicken karaage late on a Friday night. 

The constant improvements in modern medicine and healthcare are a wonder to behold, but it feels like there is some warm comfort to be taken from the epic history of sake brewing. The purity of the process and natural wisdoms that have been passed down through the generations, largely unaffected by external forces, offer tangible wellbeing benefits. 

And for once, taking your medicine never tasted so good. 

A certified Sake Sommelier, Will Jarvis is the owner and founder of Sake Matters, consulting for a variety of clients in Hong Kong and internationally. Will has spent over 20 years working in the food and beverage industry in Europe, the Middle East and Asia, is a trained chef and holds a diploma in hospitality. For more information please visit www.sakematters.com.

The post Vegan Sake: It’s Real, and it’s Spectacular appeared first on Prestige Online - Hong Kong.

A selection of multi-grape blends from single vintages -- all lending credence to every wine snob's favourite theory that Champagne is predisposed to "ageing gracefully".

For all the information that accompanies widespread internet access and the omnipresent, somewhat dogged spectre of social media, a huge chunk of drinkers remain oblivious to the decisive role lees ageing plays in the production of sparkling wine. Ditto whenever you pop a bottle of Champagne: that famously coveted regionality of bubbly, that benefits from anywhere between 2-3 years of ageing sur lie for even the most pedestrian of non-vintages.

In contrast to the EU's wider wine-producing industry (where the minimum statutory requirement is 90 days), in Champagne sufficient time spent on fermentation of flavour is deemed indispensable to the overall process. Away from the predations of light, in a CO²-rich environ that's deep underground, the wines of the Champenoise achieve a kind of miraculous metamorphosis: ageing, evolving, revealing complexities of character.

Of course, every Chef de Cave ('cellarmaster') has their own philosophy pertaining to the vicissitudes that accompany extended lees-ageing. Perhaps most controversially, Vincent Chaperon, Dom Pérignon's Chef de Cave, has long maintained that Champagne doesn't evolve linearly, but rather through a series of multi-year cycles he described as "windows of opportunity, or plenitudes". At DP, that hypothesis expresses itself in three distinct bottlings: the first comes 7-8 years after the wine has been sur lie (what most consumers will recognise as DP's signature, vintage-specific Champagne), the second requires 12-15 years, and the third when a vintage wine has matured on lees for at least two decades. Amongst the brand's devotees, the intermediate 'window' has always been popular, largely because of its association with the 'P2' label -- the most recent expression of which pivots around the famously "challenging" vintage of 2003.

Put plainly, in 2021, there are no shortage of serious Champagne houses releasing cuvées which bear the unmistakable mark of a long sleep in the cellar. In concert with grapes borne of excellent soil and weather, extended lees-ageing can bolster the cellaring potential of a given vintage 10, 20, occasionally even 30 years. At the very least? The process makes for bubbly that is delicious and eminently drinkable. Amidst the height of the Hong Kong summer, you'll find a few of my personal favourites below.

The post Lees on Life: 5 of the Best Prestige Cuvées in 2021 appeared first on Prestige Online - Hong Kong.

Randy Lai ventures beyond his home bar in search of Hong Kong’s most delicious Martini, and the mixologists poised to revitalise the beverage for an exciting comeback.

Like most addictions popularised over the past year and a half – who could forget the meteoric spike in online searches for “how to make sourdough”? – my initial motive for fixing Martinis at home was, predictably, to drown out the internal screaming that runs concomitant with a worldwide health emergency. Those days when I felt especially helpless – typically, the result of another lockdown, new restriction or some horrible announcement of yet another untimely venue closure – I resorted to the “direct pour” method: in effect, a searingly cold glass of gin, where the presence of vermouth could best be described as “ineffectual”.

But as Hong Kong wobbles gingerly into the third quarter of something like a “normal” year, my appetite for the drink has taken on a decidedly more appreciative guise. Last year, consuming them (and the pivot to making cocktails at home in general) seemed crucially like an act of self-care. In 2021, the Martini symbolises a return to form, typifying a whole class of well-made classics that we now have the pleasure of falling in love with on an evening out, following many months of homemade analogues.

Of course, some will argue that the drink’s elemental simplicity makes it a poor choice of standard bearer in the mission to re-open bars and encourage over-the-counter drinking. How could any cocktail made with just three ingredients (namely: gin, vermouth and ice) possibly be good enough to warrant a return to the notoriously outbreak-prone realm of bars and restaurants?

The first salvo to this mostly rhetorical invective is fired from across the harbour. The triggerman in question? Simone Rossi. A veteran bartender of London’s Dorchester Hotel, he now heads up DarkSide, Rosewood Hong Kong’s sultry hideaway for jazz, classic cocktails and premium aged spirits. Ranked No 40 on Asia’s 50 Best list, the bar stirs up one of Hong Kong’s most popular Martinis, and a litany of beverages made in the same minimalist style. “In order to foster interest in the classics, we first needed to have a very well-rounded signature,” says Rossi. “That’s why we created the Martini Vs Vesper, as a kind of baby step for casual drinkers, taking the traditional gin/ vermouth pairing and making it a little more light-hearted and approachable.”

To the layman, the signature concoction will appear uncannily similar to the archetypal Martini, served – in the hallowed tradition of transatlantic supper clubs – in a long conical glass, always chilled and garnished with a green olive-esque morsel. Available on a spirited base of either vodka or gin, it’s a surprisingly mellow evocation of a beverage that’s frequently typecast as boozy, bone-dry denouement. Rossi says that this recipe, incorporating two kinds of Mancino Vermouth (aromatised wine produced by adding botanicals to a base of Trebbiano) and wakamomo mountain peaches, is an “evolution” of the classic Martini, one that accommodates the distinctive preferences of Hong Kong’s local drinking culture. “Nowadays, many people are looking for something that’s less unhealthy and low ABV. Aside from its lower alcohol content, our Vs Vesper utilises a range of ingredients that mellow out and balance the entire flavour profile. It’s a lighter drinking experience, with floral notes and a texture closer to the wetter side of the palette.”

The success of the Vs Vesper does, of course, track with the Martini’s well-earned reputation for versatility. Sherry, amaro, pickled onions: time and time again, the basic equation of ‘gin plus vermouth’ has a way of reconciling cameo ingredients with surprisingly scrumptious results. “That’s why it’s so underrated,” says Rossi.

“As a category, there are few drinks better for showcasing lesser -known liquors, because of the outsized way in which these impact the strength, structure, or complexity of the basic recipe.” For discerning types on either side of the bar, the Martini’s potentially infinite variability – actuated by no more than a slight tweak in the proportion of gin, vermouth, or ice – has often made it the subject of fairly detailed scrutiny. Back on Hong Kong Island, in the belly of the financial district, drinkers will find Kyle & Bain, an intimate alcove that seats no more than 20, where the entire beverage programme (notwithstanding one or two curveballs) reads like Martini-fuelled Magna Carta.

Opened by award-winning Seattleite bartender John Nugent, who’s also behind Asia’s No 20 bar, The Diplomat, it feels – to put it mildly – like the sort of establishment that’s long overdue in Hong Kong. Dismayed by the absence of bars capable of whipping up anything more than a tepid Appletini, Nugent took matters into his own hands (with an assist from local hospitality group Leading Nation), culminating in a space where the “golden age” of the Martini remains well and truly alive. “Among the cocktail community, Martinis have always been a fixture,” says Nugent, “but within broader popular culture they gradually became this kind of abused, overly diluted drink. Many of our customers responded warmly to the idea of a bar that would challenge those misconceptions. At the same time, we were becoming acutely aware that what Hong Kong lacked was a place where drinkers could discover a wide assortment of Martini-style recipes, ranging from forgotten classics to modern interpretations.”

Each section of Kyle & Bain’s menu is inspired by the various “building blocks” comprising a classic American Martini. Essentially a four-act structure, cocktails pivot around spirits, vermouth, ice, soigné (the so-called “special element” that really ties a drink together, as Nugent explains) or some combination thereof. Start on a reassuringly strong note with the Gimlet: a boozy yet balanced number, located in the Spirits chapter of the menu. The recipe traditionally calls for equal parts gin and lime juice; on top of which Nugent shepherds in complementary flavours of genever, mastiha (a herbal liqueur originating on the Greek island of Chios) and a “salad cordial’ made by flavouring the eponymous preparation with leeks, cucumber and a variety of other bright, crunchy vegetables. Round, refreshing, yet also mouth-wateringly savoury, it adds a distinctly culinary facet to the Martini’s already-manifold personality.

Turn the page, and you’ll be greeted by the Vermouth section. Unlike the previous spirit-inspired chapter, this part consists of drinks that are driven by mellower, low-ABV ingredients. “That doesn’t necessarily mean they all must include vermouth,” says Nugent, “but it’s a catch-all we use to describe our lighter-drinking cocktails – those utilising aperitifs and fortified wines”. The pithily named Just Grapes is a helpful example. A tipple of Nugent’s own invention, it’s built on a base of two spirits – gin and Armagnac – then stirred over ice with verjus and Lillet Blanc (a fairly typical aromatised wine, made by blending Bordeaux grapes together with citrus liqueur). For good measure, a handful of muscat is garnished prior to serving, hammering home the drink’s essential qualities with the aid of a simple visual flourish. Semi-sweet, balanced and on occasion fruit-forward, these are – for lack of a better phrase – another excellent “gateway drug” to the realm of stiffly made cocktails.

In conversation with devotees like Rossi and Nugent, it’s clear then that the Martini remains a rich, somewhat underrated seam for innovation, just waiting to be mined. As always, the million-dollar question is whether such labours will produce a comeback that lasts; or whether the drinking public will simply lose interest and hurry on to the next thing. For a barman like Nugent, who’s staked much of Kyle & Bain’s reputation on the Martini’s inexhaustible possibilities, Hongkongers’ proven appetite for “simple things, done well” – whether we’re speaking of tuna temaki or a Tuxedo No 2 – gives him no small measure of confidence.

“I think that at any bar striving for excellence, it’s our job to guide customers into the same world that we ourselves have derived so much valuable experience and pleasure from. Even if you’re not ‘into’ the classic dry Martini, we have the elements to make something that’s going to be delicious, approachable and unlikely to alienate you.” The Martini: a beverage for the people, by the people. Now there’s a thought.

(Hero image: Kyle & Bain’s signature martini)

The post Stirring Renditions: n Search of Hong Kong’s Most Delicious Martini appeared first on Prestige Online - Hong Kong.

A collaboration between FRANCK MULLER and The Glenrothes in celebration of the former's new space on Queen's Road Central honours both brands' demonstrated commitment to things that take time.

The thing with time is this. At face value, it’s a slow, idle march to the minutiae of the everyday. It’s the slog; the hard work and routines that bleed and blend into an unending, indiscernible carousel. Then, all at once, years. Decades. An entire lifetime, in a blink of an eye.

Time, as it is experienced, is an unreliable variable. To conquer any measure of it is a feat to be celebrated; a detail luxury watchmakers like FRANCK MULLER have spent years pinpointing to exactitudes. A detail Speyside distilleries like The Glenrothes have spent decades harnessing as an ingredient both sacrosanct and valuable. A detail The Glenrothes continues to progress upon with their ‘Look Beyond’ campaign, forever in search of knowledge that builds on generations of know-how, generations of determination and generations of traversing down paths less taken.

There’s a reason why matter and material that gesture at time passed — also: at time passing — are precious. Things like haute horology. Age-old whisky. Heirloom jewellery. Family traditions. Love. Our lives are transient by design; we’re hardwired to be desperate and keening for tangible evidence of things that last, of things that do not break. Of things that do not die.

Now open alongside the hustle and bustle of Queen’s Road Central is FRANCK MULLER’s brand-new conservatory of time — a 1,600-square-foot concept boutique cast in gold, royal blue and veined wooden parapets. Upon entrance through door handles embellished with an Arabic numeral ‘8’ (swivelled: the symbol for infinity), guests will find themselves immersed amid scaled-way-up horological features, from a tourbillon chandelier inspired by the curvilinear formation of a Giga Tourbillon to the Vanguard collection’s index design magnified and etched onto a marble wall.

To celebrate both the opening of the new concept boutique and the 18^th anniversary of FRANCK MULLER’s Crazy Hours collection (which remains the brand’s most idiosyncratic with numerals that do not count up consecutively; instead, prancing from 8 to 1 to 6 to 11 and so on arbitrarily), The Glenrothes is on hand with sipping glasses, crystal decanters of amber gold and customised 18-Year-Old casks. So, presenting: A masterclass for the few connoisseurs with the time, the dedication and the palate tweaked towards mementoes both time-honoured and special.

This exclusive partnership with The Glenrothes is available to be enjoyed at FRANCK MULLER’s new boutique on Queen’s Road Central, as well as their outposts at The Peninsula Hotel and ELEMENTS Mall.

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As Chinese wines take big strides with quality while becoming more diverse, James Suckling looks at the 10 best bottles he tasted in 2020, with appellations ranging across the country from Ningxia TO Shandong and Yunnan to Hebei

Our Chinese wine of the year is Ao Yun Shangri-La 2016, which comes from a distant part of the country’s southwest. This wine shows the harmony of ripeness and freshness of a sound 2016 vintage described by Maxence Dulou, the winemaker at this premium producer, as “the coolest year until mid-July, followed by a very sunny, hot and dry season in August”. The LVMH-owned winery is located in a remote Xanadu of Himalayan terroir and its grapes come from a mosaic of 314 plots between 2,200 and 2,600 metres above sea level. It’s also the first year that Ao Yun added some syrah and petit verdot planted in 2013, with the reduced involvement of new oak, giving the wine “a heartfelt utterance of the terroir”.

Long Dai Qiushan 2018, in second place, is an invigorating result of another French investment: DBR-Lafite, whose Château Lafite 1982 has had an unparalleled high profile in China after featuring in a movie starring Chow Yun Fat. That legend has continued with this interpretation of Shandong’s Qiu Shan Valley’s terroir, which lies some 20km from the Yellow Sea. The vineyards enjoy a warm climate moderated by the ocean, which provides the ultra-fine tannins and a lengthy finish to this blend of cabernet sauvignon, marselan and cabernet franc. Shandong also produced an outstanding chardonnay that we believe is the best rendition of the grape we’ve so far discovered. Chateau Nine Peaks Chardonnay Qingdao Qi 2018 is a full-bodied chardonnay that shows engaging transparency, freshness and focus. 

Ningxia remains the stronghold for China’s quality wines, with Jade Vineyard, Helan Qingxue, Kanaan Winery and Silver Heights running ahead with some of the more serious cabernets and Bordeaux blends. Jade Vineyard Ningxia Messenger Reserve 2016 was our top wine from Ningxia in 2020 and scored 95 points.

Jade Vineyard’s first vintage of marselan – Jade Vineyard Marselan 2019 – is also stunning with its dense fruit and brooding depth. To date, the only marselan wine that’s scored higher at jamessuckling.com was Domaine Franco-Chinois Marselan Reserve 2014 from Huailai county in Hebei, which we tasted in 2019 and isn’t included on this list. But Domaine Franco-Chinois’s sister winery Canaan Wine Estate, from the same appellation, offered the best deal with its Chapter and Verse Riesling Hebei Huailai Mastery 2018, which I believe represents some of the greatest value from China.

In Ningxia, Helan Qingxue and Kanaan Winery made fantastic wines from 2016, which was a ripe but more “unanimous” vintage, according to Helan Qingxue’s winemaker Zhang Jing, who debuted the Helan Qingxue Vineyard Ningxia Jiabeilan Grand Reserve 2016. The Kanaan Winery Ningxia Crazy Fang 2016, in fifth place, is another cabernet sauvignon and one of our top-scoring Chinese reds.

The riesling and viognier from this list show how reasonably priced Chinese wines of outstanding quality can be. In contrast, many Chinese wines ambitiously target the high end of the market: The top five in the list fetch a premium price (from US$150-$300 a bottle), but they also have the premium quality to go with it. It’s up to the consumer to decide whether super-premium Chinese wines such as these have a place in the market.

Top 10 Chinese Wines Tasting Notes

AO YUN SHANGRI-LA 2016

Score: 96

A very pure red with currants, blackberries and fresh leaves. Mushrooms and wet earth. Some tobacco. Cigars. Charcoal. Medium-to full-bodied with fine, silky tannins and an intense, flavourful finish. It grows on the palate with chewy yet polished tannins. Delicious.

LONG DAI QIUSHAN 2018

Score: 96

Complex, perfumed nose of lavender, clove, potpourri, bark, sandalwood, black cherry, blackcurrant, sweet tobacco and musk. It’s full-bodied with firm, ultra-fine and velvety tannins. Plenty of dark fruit and spice with dried tobacco leaves.

JADE VINEYARD NINGXIA MESSENGER RESERVE 2016

Score: 95

This is beautifully rendered, with complexity and depth. A well-poised package of ripe cassis, some cherry jam, blackberries and hints of black dates, together with high-grade, cedary and creamy oak to balance the ripeness. Some walnut, iodine and dried meat, too.

HELAN QINGXUE VINEYARD NINGXIA JIABEILAN GRAND RESERVE 2016

Score: 94

Very complex, deep nose with lots of savoury cocoa powder, preserved plums, meaty berries, tobacco leaf, tomato paste, black olives and cedar. There’s plenty here that’s reminiscent of a top Chilean cabernet sauvignon with its glossy, plush ripeness, without sacrificing any freshness.

KANAAN WINERY NINGXIA CRAZY FANG 2016

Score: 94

Dense, elegant and ripe, with lots of cassis character, as well as cigar box and fine spice. Very classy with beautiful oak integration. Juicy, ripe and dense, loaded with dissipated, velvety tannins that deliver a long, focused finish.

CHATEAU NINE PEAKS CHARDONNAY QINGDAO QI 2018

Score: 93

This is really energetic and bright, with sliced apples, cooked pears and lemons. Hints of caramel and honey. Full-bodied, tight, bright and focused. Oily and crisp at the same time.

CHAPTER AND VERSE RIESLING HEBEI HUAILAI MASTERY 2018

Score: 93

Fragrant and attractive nose, oozing tropical fruit from papaya to peaches. Exotic and floral with lots of orange blossom and jasmine as it evolves in the glass. Such a perfumed complexity!

DOMAINE CHARME VIOGNIER NINGXIA 2019

Score: 93

This is so fresh and zesty on the nose with immediate floral and peachy appeal, as well as orange blossom and lemon grass. The lifted aromas are attentive, but not sassy.

XIGE ESTATE CABERNET GERNISCHT NINGXIA JADE DOVE SINGLE VINEYARD 2018

Score: 93

Such a racy nose, featuring hawthorn fruit and dark cherries. Black pepper, dried herbs and some classy oak add complexity. Medium to full body with lots of juicy, ripe fruit, coated by linear yet polished tannins.

SILVER HEIGHTS PINOT NOIR NINGXIA JIAYUAN 2017

Score: 93

Such nice sous-bois and earthy, foresty berries, together with dried orange peel and creamy, classy oak that add sweet spices. Medium-bodied, but not lacking in texture.

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Dimensions, layout, and storage areas are important considerations when designing your home bar.

The post How to build a home bar appeared first on The Peak Magazine.

Dimensions, layout, and storage areas are important considerations when designing your home bar.

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After much anticipation, Argo, the Four Seasons Hong Kong's new concept-driven bar, is set to open its doors this July. Labelled as a "journey of discovery" of the modern world through spirits, the venue will focus on sustainability, unconventional parings and making the most out of technology.

We talk to the Four Seasons Hong Kong Beverage Manager Lorenzo Antinori about the new concept, the inspiration behind it and what to expect.

What can we expect from Argo?

Argo is our new destination. It’s a cocktail bar that explores the modern world and celebrates innovation in the world of spirits. I would say that is contemporary concept, that relates to the world around us and celebrates innovation. Despite the fact that it might sound like a pretty geeky concept or right, or a complicated concept, the space is going to be extremely energetic and vibrant, we wanted to kind of stay away from the classic Four Seasons and five star hotel concept, because consumers these days are different. You will see this through the music and the team’s uniforms and also in the offering.

We conceptualised Argo as a standalone venue. The price point will be affordable compared to Caprice Bar to create a nice alternative. The cocktails will be extremely fun. We hope guests will also have fun.

Can we expect any exciting collaborations or pop ups?

Yeah, I think collaborations are going to be part of the programme. When we talk about innovation, necessarily, we need to talk about collaborations because it means branching out from our natural environment and connecting with people that have a different expertise to bring something new to the table. At Argo, innovation will also be evident in the collection of spirits that we are presenting, introducing the greatest innovators in the in the world of spirits. Spirits pretty much reflect how food and drinks

Can you tell us more about the menu?

The name Argo is synonymous with exploration. In the Greek Myth Jason and the Argonauts,
Argo was a ship used for a journey of exploration. At the bar, we want to explore the modern world and the world of spirits throughout the cocktail menu. We will focus on six daily staple ingredients, which we developed in a creative way, looking at their origin, flavour, geographical location and their evolution. We’re also introducing a new way of categorising spirits, which is different from the classic one. The categories have been set up in a way that really reflect the contemporary world. Each spirit will be sorted based on its story, sustainability, and the use of technology.

They are: Modernist Spirits (crazy technologies and cutting-edge techniques), Sense of the Land (spirits that are representative of a place and tradition), Collaborative Creations, Clash of the World (spirits that combine two school of thoughts when it comes to spirit-making) and Philanthropic & Socially Conscious.

What’s the inspiration behind the concept?

It’s always a teamwork. I had this idea of doing a cocktail bar that somehow wouldn't necessarily fit into a category because I believe that we are heading in a direction where consumers are more interested and more knowledgeable about beverage and food. I think it’s interesting to look at spirits in a different light. The challenge was to create a space that has such a deep concept but at the same time delivering it in a fun way. We’re also trying to reduce waste as much as possible.

In your opinion, how has the F&B industry changed over the past year and a half in Hong Kong?

I think there is a much bigger sense of community, solidarity and being sensitive about the difficulties of doing business these days, during a global pandemic. I think a lot of businesses have changed their model, the way they operate with a focus on the daytime and introducing delivery options. I think that both guests and people in the industry are ready to have fun after a very difficult period.

What are some of the new bar trends that you're seeing in Hong Kong and all over the world?

I think there’s a lot more places specialising on a very specific category of spirits. You see many more bars that are celebrating provenance, regionality and the traditions of certain cultures. Like tequila mezcal or Japanese spirits. I think there is a much more interested for niche concept. I think there’s also more emphasis on fun venues, where the experience is interactive and memorable.

You’re the Beverage Ambassador for Four Seasons in Asia. What does your role imply?

It’s the fanciest title ever, it’s a cool one. In the last few years we've been giving much more relevance to beverage at Four Seasons as we noticed that consumers are much more interested and curious about bar and venues. That’s why we started putting a lot of emphasis in that sector and started creating spaces, especially in Asia Pacific, in our hotel bars that are also destination bars with a concept and an element of storytelling.

If you see the ranking from 50 Best, for example, this effort paid off, as 80% of our hotel bars at Four Seasons in Asia are recognized as great places. That’s why the organisation thought it was time to find a person that could help develop the beverage programme even further. I take care of Japan, Korea, and China and I basically help with concepts, staff training and other initiatives.

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Collaborations have always been a great way to bring a new and refreshing perspective to more established brands, and this couldn't be truer for The Macallan and Bentley Motors, who announced that they are joining forces to build their vision of a more sustainable future. Now, this is an initiative that we can get on board with.

When news broke that two giants in their respective fields were coming together to form a long-term partnership, even the most jaded journalists perked their ears to hear more. Truth be told, we'd never have seen this alliance coming, but The Macallan single malt Scotch whisky and luxury British automotive manufacturer Bentley Motors have revealed a unique partnership that will build on their rich heritage to develop distinctive collaborations and further their vision of a more sustainable future.

The melding of these two storied brands is a notable milestone. The Macallan and Bentley Motors are both extremely ambitious but known for their unwavering focus, and the lofty goals they set for themselves are more than attainable.

Not only will this new venture bring us exciting jointly-developed products, but it will also introduce curated customer experiences, collaborative events, and extensive support in one another’s sustainability efforts. 

Igor Boyadjian, Managing Director for The Macallan, says, “Our collaboration presents a remarkable opportunity to compare our time-earned knowledge and learn from each other, supporting fresh thinking about our businesses, our customers, and ultimately our products.” 

The two share such innate and intrinsic similarities; both are longstanding, leading purveyors of luxury driven by mastery, craftsmanship, creativity, and innovation. This partnership lays down a blueprint for navigating a better tomorrow, as sustainability is the name of the game here. 

In the coming months and years, The Macallan and Bentley Motors are on a noble mission to achieve carbon neutrality by 2030. They will exchange ideas, learnings, and expertise in environmental and social responsibility to exemplify how exceptionalism can be ethical.

The Macallan is committed to having a fully electric passenger vehicle fleet on The Macallan Estate by 2025, a bespoke Bentley Bentayga Hybrid that will be a highlight on The Macallan Estate in Speyside. The team at Mulliner – Bentley’s bespoke division representing hundreds of years of history and craftsmanship that deliver exacting personalisation for discerning consumers – has brought The Macallan brand to life through exacting details on this Bentayga Hybrid. 

Bentley’s Chairman and Chief Executive, Adrian Hallmark, interlinks the genuine connection of both brands. “We share the same ethos – the passion for exceptional quality, respect for artisanal handcraftsmanship, and now a drive towards genuine, world-leading sustainability. I’m looking forward to the adventure together.”

The collaboration will explore new sources of sustainable materials and allow the two brands to jointly find and share sustainable, local suppliers. Of course, it will also result in jointly-developed products, curated customer experiences, and collaborative events – all of which are undoubtedly worth the wait.

To attain this goal, a network of artisans has been crucial in supporting The Macallan to realise its vision of creating distinctive products and accessories and in 2021, The Macallan will establish and grow a collaborative community for our artisan partners. Through this community, and with funds raised from its Giving Back auctions, The Macallan will also create an Artisan Apprenticeship Fund aimed at perpetuating these legacy skills and the generational passage of knowledge for many years to come.  

This year, Bentley will launch its Diversity and Inclusion Strategy – recognising the value of investing in people. The strategy will focus on enhancing diversity and inclusion within the workplace to help the brand develop, attract and embrace the future talents, ideas, and customers who will help Bentley achieve future success. 

Ethical luxury in the future goes beyond sustainability. A new yardstick is on the horizon.

 (‘On an extraordinary journey into the future’ / ‘Crafted without compromise. Please savour The Macallan responsibly. Do not drink and drive.’)

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Imbibed amidst an immersive patchwork of sounds, scents, and flavours, the latest edition of Krug's much-loved multi-vintage Champagne strikes a chord that is as joyful as it is delicious.

I'll be the first to concede that there's nothing quite like "the intangible quality...of taking in the terroir" but insofar as virtual tastings are concerned -- essentially the status quo for drinks industry pundits in 2021 -- the recent unveiling of Krug's latest Grande Cuvée proved to be oddly visceral and thrilling (in some ways, even touching). Every year since 1843, the eponymous makers of prestige Champagne have released a new assemblage of reserve wines, always consisting of the classic Champenois trio of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Meunier; and always left to age sur lie for 7 years.

Dispensing first with the formalities, the 169th Edition is a "generous expression" of 146 wines made in 11 different years (Krug bottle single vintages relatively infrequently), the oldest of which harkens back to the turn of the millennium. It is, however, the 2013 vintage that -- to butcher a musical analogy -- really sets the bassline: with intensely "luminous and pure" Chardonnays; racy Meunier; and Pinot Noir that extrudes a long, treacle finish. It is in a word, unsurprisingly, 'scrumptious': at its best harmonising alongside sharp aged cheese; aromatic seafood dishes; maybe even a cheeky slice of tarte tatin.

Unsurprisingly, the hallmarks of this Grande Cuvée (namely quality, consistency, and complexity) remain present year in, year out; but it's Krug's highly intuitive method of presentation that helps to immerse drinkers in the art of crafting prestige Champagne. With the jubilant voice of Olivier Krug pouring into their ears -- livestreaming in from the Maison's ancestral holdfast in Reims -- participants in these 'Encounters' were able to hear the story of the 169th Edition in a style that takes you beyond the spoken word. An "audio pairing" composed by Belgian musician Ozark Henry (and fed through to listeners using 8D technology) chronicles, in sonic form, the entire journey of the latest Krug edition: from plot to tasting, and finally harmonious blending together at the hands of Cellar Master Julie Cavil.

As ever, these 'Encounters' ended with a culinary presentation (in Hong Kong, presided over by Island Shangri-La's Uwe Opocensky) inspired by the tasting notes for the current edition -- langoustine and freshly jetted oysters seem to be much-favoured accompaniments this time round -- followed by a round of questions for the Maison's patriarch, Mr. Olivier Krug. On whether he was excited for a resumption of global travel -- to better present this 169th annual bottling -- he expressed optimism. Until then, you could do a lot worse than sipping to a soundtrack.

The 169th Edition of Krug Grande Cuvée is now available at various retail partners throughout Hong Kong, including Watson's, The Fine Wine Experience, CitySuper and Avize Wine Cellar. To learn more, visit Krug online.

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