Celebrity Life

After holding the reins at Henry for two years, British nose-to-tail chef Nate Green has allied himself with the group behind Octavium for a “contemporary European” restaurant.

Seven years after landing in Hong Kong, Nate Green has at long last opened a restaurant in Central. The British veteran, whose CV includes such stalwarts as 22 Ships, Ham & Sherry and Rhoda, has plied his brand of focused, produce-led cooking across the city’s vast urban gestalt, but his latest (and arguably most personal) venture sees him digging in at a cavernous space beneath Des Voeux Road, marking a much-delayed, highly anticipated return to the world of local restaurant groups.

Having steered Henry – Rosewood Hong Kong’s preeminent eatery for meaty, smokehouse-inspired fare – through a two-year gauntlet marked by political turmoil and the Coronavirus outbreak, Green confides that in 2021 he felt ready to realise his vision for a modern, grillroom-inspired restaurant.

“For a long time, working in a ‘grill’ or ‘steakhouse’ wasn’t desirable for chefs who aspired to be top-level,” says Green. “The prevailing viewpoint was that there simply wasn’t enough ‘kudos’ in something like that.”

With Rex Wine & Grill, however, Green appears determined to counter this narrative: championing, without an ounce of cognitive dissonance, generous platefuls of USDA prime alongside more chef-y creations that draw on his considerable talent for indirect cooking techniques. A month into opening, we grab a seat at the bar with Green and hear how he hopes that Rex will usher in a resurgence of the Grand Grill.

Having played a pivotal role in opening Henry and popularising the smokehouse concept, why did you feel now was the right moment to embark on a new project?

After working with hotel groups for three years, I came to realise I just didn’t belong in that sort of corporate environment. I hold strong opinions about a range of different subjects and always speak my mind. That, coupled with the fact that I’d achieved everything I set out to do with Henry, convinced me it was time for a change.

That’s not to say I didn’t enjoy learning about and bringing to fruition the “American smokehouse” concept, but Rex presents me with the opportunity to put what I feel is the best representation of my cuisine in front of diners. Without wanting to sound wanky, that means modern European food, prepared with a strong nose-to-tail mantra, from the best produce that we can realistically source whole.

Rex is billed as combining Italian flair with American opulence. How will that translate for your diners?

We’ve evolved that concept since I came aboard. The foundation of the cuisine is definitely modern European, but when we use the phrase “American opulence” we’re talking about generosity: real cooking, not piddly little portions. Then, the “Italian flair” is a reference to the level of hospitality being redolent of the great grillrooms of continental Europe. We aren’t necessarily talking about the food that’s going on the plate – there won’t be eight pasta courses on the menu. In fact, early on, one of the first points Octavo management and I agreed on was that we didn’t need another regional Italian concept.

What we’re envisioning is a return to the era of the Grand Grill, in the vein of parliamentary canteens at The Savoy or The Dorchester in London. We want the beauty and attention to detail of traditional European service to come through: whether that’s in the shape of our silver, stemware, or the substantial number of dishes prepared tableside.

Your new venue shares a name and certain stylistic touchpoints with Mauro Vincenti’s pioneering LA restaurant Rex il Ristorante. What inspired you to resurrect such a piece of America’s dining history in Hong Kong?

In a way, Rex is a tribute to chef Umberto Bombana. Back in 1983, Rex in LA was the first restaurant Bombana helmed and his experiences there eventually led him to Hong Kong, where we met. That was an important connection to celebrate when we were discussing what the restaurant should be called.

We also wanted to explore the American restaurant scene as it existed in the 1970s and 1980s, pinpointing what the height of sophistication was during those eras. Many people forget that the idea of an “American” culinary identity, forged by chefs like Jeremiah Tower and Alice Waters, didn’t develop until much later – French and Italian cuisine were the two dominant influences for a long time. If anything, my cooking at Rex shares a certain affinity with modern British cuisine: beyond the “nationality” of our ingredients, we’re interested in the conditions they were produced in and the personalities behind them.

As you’re one of the foremost proponents of nose-to-tail dining in the city, how can we expect your passion for that to take flight at Rex?

Our aim is to keep the menu quite small, populating it with satisfying, classic dishes you’d expect to see at a grillroom-inspired restaurant. On top of that, we offer a house-made sausage; maybe a ragout of lamb shoulder – all of which will be done as specials – and when they’re gone, they’re gone. The way that the menu is set up allows us to utilise almost the entirety of an animal. Even in those situations when we don’t source a whole cow, we’re still championing offal cookery: liver, kidneys and sweetbreads, nothing goes to waste.

Was the decision to compose a shorter signature menu in part to encourage diners to explore the list of specials? To consume a wider variety of dishes?

I’ve always thought the best way to build a menu is to have steady à la carte options, supplemented by a few seasonal dishes. Our aim with Rex is to build a clientèle that includes a core of regulars who come all the time. You can’t sustain a restaurant like this around a business model of “one and done” – though, sadly, that’s an extremely popular attitude among many Hong Kong operators.

I also feel the idea of a steak is fairly self-contained. If you go to dinner for crispy-skinned chicken, you’re not going to order it at a Peking duck restaurant – you’re going to go somewhere that’s best-known for its chicken. Obviously, there’ll always be one or two diners who aren’t like that, but over time our aim is for them to feel so familiar with us that we’re like their canteen. By that, I mean they can be assured they’ll find something delicious on the menu, even if what that is changes weekly.

There’s less wastage, the ingredients we use maintain their optimal freshness, and my team stays engaged because they’re constantly seeing and learning new dishes.

What role will sustainability play in the creation of your new menu and the physical spaces at the restaurant?

I’m always looking at the impact of whatever we buy and use in the restaurant. I don’t think it’s controversial to say that we work in a damaging industry: there’s food waste, plastics and the destructive effect that comes with producing food on an industrial scale. What we need – and it’s something I’m proud we’re doing here at Rex – is a greater willingness to utilise whole animals. Another commitment we’ve made is re-writing our lunch menu every day, which means we can prepare a lot of the larger items that need to be broken down in a succession of different ways.

In a restaurant scene already teeming with premium reserve lists, what aspects of Rex’s beverage programme will be most exciting for seasoned drinkers?

We’ve approached it sensibly. The calibre of the wine list is comparable to what you’ll find at our sister restaurant, Octavium. For cocktails, we’ve kept it along the lines of “really good classics”, albeit with a subtle twist. We’re also specialising more on after-dinner tipples – categories that I personally really enjoy, like whisky and digestifs.

Our killer feature, however, is the wine-locker system: we have 100 available for diners to rent, which is something you don’t often see outside of private members’ clubs. Nothing encourages repeat visits like having a couple of your own bottles on-hand – it’s an opportunity to give our guests exactly what they enjoy.

Considering how diners are becoming increasingly restrictive in their dietary choices, are there elements of the menu that will appeal to those with less carnivorous appetites?

We’re in the business of hospitality. If I’m cooking for a table of 10, there’s a good chance two of those diners will only eat fish, be vegetarian … I’ve got no issue with that. But instead of composing a fully vegan menu, I’d much prefer to come to your table, ask what you enjoy, and prepare something around the seasonal veggies we have available. It’s such a cop-out to say, “You’re a vegetarian? Right, your choice is either salad or gnocchi.” Often, vegetables are where you can afford the most creativity: you can blend them, bake them, pickle them. When you think about a “composed” dish at a Michelin-star restaurant, the plate itself is around 60 percent vegetables. I love that.

Is it necessary for certain elements in the classic steakhouse concept to be “modernised”, so as to better reflect Hongkongers’ dining preferences?

If not, why do you think the traditional idea of a restaurant specialising in wine and steaks has remained so celebrated? Put simply, I think steakhouses are easy for most diners to understand. Whether it’s a business meal or a big celebratory occasion, you don’t necessarily know if everybody at the table is going to enjoy a composed tasting menu. But guess what? Nine out of 10 people are going to love steak. And the beauty of steak is you can make it as simple or complicated as you like. Where I felt Henry was most successful was on the side dishes: we offered 14 of them, and they all went beyond the settled notion of simple accompaniments. You could order a handful of those and not even consider steak.

At Rex, even though we’re working with many of the techniques of a traditional steakhouse, we also add an element of our own creativity: whether it’s a smoked eel and roasted beetroot, a blue cheese bearnaise, or toothfish with artichokes and preserved lemon. I mean, there’s no universal rule that says you have to serve a prawn cocktail in a martini glass, so why not play around with it? A steakhouse is no different – it’s all about paying homage to the classics, with a fresh perspective.

The post Chef Nate Green on REX Wine & Grill, Modern Steakhouses and His Restaurant Values appeared first on Prestige Online - Hong Kong.

As we begin planning for the start of the Singapore-Hong Kong Air Travel Bubble, we look at 10 restaurants to check out in the vertical city.

The post Top 10 Restaurants to Try in Hong Kong appeared first on LUXUO.

Hong Kong's ever-changing dining scene is constantly evolving.

So much so, that it can get a little difficult to keep track of it all, let alone remember to book and try the new restaurants that have caught your eye. From brand new concepts to fresh venues and additional locations, here is our guide to seven of Hong Kong's most promising new restaurants to try right now.

Well, what are you waiting for...

The post 7 Handsome Restaurants and Bars in Hong Kong For Father’s Day appeared first on Prestige Online - Hong Kong.

Whether it’s an extravagant fine dining restaurant or a humble street side hawker stall, we are perpetually on the quest for delectable foods — whatever the occasion. So, for the ultimate insider scoop, who better to personally recommend the best eats around the world than top chefs who’ve seen and tasted it all. We go right to the source as international culinary legends reveal where they eat and what they order when the aprons come off.

Rosewood continues to roll out culinary concepts. One of their latest being Henry, the “unapologetically American steak and smokehouse, paying tribute to southern traditions” as Chef de Cuisine Nathan Green would describe. You might be familiar with his unpretentious home-style cooking at his former restaurants like Rhoda and Jason Atherton’s 22 Ships and Ham & Sherry in Hong Kong. More recently, Nate has taken on the title of grill master at the Victoria Dockside luxury hotel where you can sample some of the best cuts of meat in the world. But where does @chef_smokeybandit hang out when he’s not behind the grill or in Henry’s Butcher Shop? We find out.

For an evening of fine dining…

[caption id="attachment_185273" align="alignnone" width="6720"] Tate Dining Room[/caption]

I really enjoy Tate Dining Room. Vicky Lau’s fusion of French technique and Chinese ingredients always really impresses me and when I leave after dining there, I would have learnt about new ingredients and flavours.

Tate Dining Room, 210 Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan; +852 2555 2172

For a cheeky cheat meal…

[caption id="attachment_185275" align="alignnone" width="1280"] Cali-Mex[/caption]

Cali-Mex. What’s not to love about a meal that is reasonably priced, uses fresh ingredients, tastes good and is relatively healthy? The extra bonus is being able to have it delivered.

Cali-Mex, Various locations; +852 2904 7698

For a casual date night…

[caption id="attachment_185274" align="alignnone" width="1280"] Samsen[/caption]

Samsen is our go-to date night spot. We put our name on the wait list, put the kids to bed and go and chow down on some delicious Thai Food. I’ve been a huge fan of Adam’s food ever since Cha Cha Wan. I love the energy of the place and we can be in and out of there within an hour.

Samsen, 68 Stone Nullah Lane, Wan Chai; +852 2234 0001

For getting friends and family together…

[caption id="attachment_185277" align="alignnone" width="1500"] Motorino Hong Kong[/caption]

Motorino. For me, they serve one of the best pizzas in Hong Kong. The Wan Chai branch has a fantastic young team looking after you with amazing levels of hospitality. It's easy with the kids and you can always get an early table. The menu is great and offers something for every one.

Motorino, 15 Ship Street, Wan Chai; +852 2520 0690

For a healthy detox…

[caption id="attachment_185276" align="alignnone" width="960"] Yardbird Hong Kong[/caption]

I follow a Keto diet, so Yardbird Hong Kong is perfect for me. I believe protein to be very healthy for you, so I like to order the light vegetable-based dishes and grilled chicken. Combine that with one of the best floor teams in Hong Kong and a great atmosphere, and you're set.

Yardbird Hong Kong, 154 - 158 Wing Lok Street, Sheung Wan; +852 2547 9273

The post Where Chefs Eat: Nathan Green of American Grill and Smokehouse Henry appeared first on Prestige Online - Hong Kong.

Never one to shy away from new openings, the dining scene in Hong Kong continued to thrive in 2019. We witnessed the launch of some very exciting new concepts as well as restaurants that travelled from overseas to join our dynamic city. From contemporary French cuisine and a luxury smokehouse and grill, to a modern approach to Japanese sushi and even a wine-focused eatery -- we had it all, and then some. But if you're wondering which ones came up top, then read on for our top eight restaurant openings of 2019.

1. Cornerstone

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Shane Osborn, the Australian chef behind one Michelin-starred Arcane and Netflix’s Final Table contestant, did it again with his second establishment Cornerstone. Occupying a smaller 24-seat space on Hollywood Road, the modern bistro feels more relaxed but is every bit as fantastic. Offering all-day dining, the menu is short, concise and filled with items that showcase the season's best produce, in true Australian style. Simple, but refined, and extremely satisfying, the food hits all the right notes and dishes are updated regularly. Signatures include a Salmon with herb cream cheese, homemade malt bread and cornichons, as well as a hearty mushroom Tagliatelle with optional white truffle (when the season is right).
Cornerstone, 49 Hollywood Road, Central

2. Henry

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When former Rhoda chef Nathan Green left the Ritz-Carlton, we all waited in anticipation to find out where he might turn up next. Thankfully, fans of his work will be pleased to know he did not go far. For he is now the Chef de Cuisine of the American grill, smokehouse and butcher concept Henry. Located in yet another opening of the year, Rosewood Hong Kong, Henry offers a menu inspired by the flavours and ingredients of America’s southern states. From premium cuts and signature meats such as the 44 Farms Texas whisky and ash-aged beef, T-bone and porterhouse, to dishes including a Butcher’s shop terrine, Henry's burger and an indulgent Mac & cheese with devilled lobster.

Henry, Level Five, Rosewood Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui; +852 3891 8732

3. L'Envol

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Hong Kong has many French fine dining options to choose from, but when the restaurant is led by seasoned chef Olivier Elzer, it's worth paying extra attention to. Recently awarded its first Michelin star, L'Envol offers innovative French gastronomy with curated tasting menus. During our first visit, we enjoyed beautifully presented dishes that were executed with precision and always remained balanced in flavour. The menu changes seasonally, but is always excellent, and is offered in an equally impressive restaurant which comes complete with its own French cheese cave.

L'Envol, 3/F, The St. Regis Hong Kong, 1 Harbour Drive,  Wan Chai; +852 2138 6818

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4. Louise

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It was only a matter of time that celebrated chef Julien Royer of Odette, Asia's Best Restaurant 2019, would spread his culinary wings to our shores and he did so with Louise earlier this year. The concept is inspired by the traditional French cuisine that Royer was brought up on, and is now led by Executive chef Franckelie Laloum. The menu showcases honest cooking with a modern twist using the best (and local where possible) ingredients. Highlight dishes include the sautéed Hong Kong frog legs with parsley and garlic chips, Angel hair pasta with Kristal caviar, and the roasted Hong Kong yellow chicken with Nigata rice en cocotte.

Louise, PMQ, 35 Aberdeen Street, Central; +852 2866 0300

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5. Mono

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If you were to guess the meaning of this restaurant's name, you probably wouldn't have thought it was connected to Mono-ha, the 1960s Japanese art movement. But this contemporary French restaurant is indeed inspired by the same essentialist approach. Hence, offering a single ingredients-driven tasting menu, which changes with the seasons. Furthermore, Petrus alum chef Ricardo Chaneton who also came from Mirazur; the World's Best Restaurant 2019, uses his background and memories to add South American nuances to his cuisine. The result of which is stunning. Think Ocean crudo with perfectly cooked seafood brightened with leche de tigre and a Miéral pigeon dish served with a deep and flavoursome 26-ingredient mole.

Mono, 5/F, 18 On Lan Street, Central; +852 2200 7000

6. Roganic

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Another new Hong Kong restaurant to be awarded its first Michelin star is overseas import Roganic. Hailing from London, acclaimed chef Simon Rogan has brought with him a restaurant that offers contemporary British cooking with the same farm-to-table concept as its sister. Having visited both restaurants, we got to know Rogan's cuisine quite well and found that his focus was always on letting the flavours of the ingredients speak for themselves. It's apparent in his exceptionally executed menu with seasonal dishes such as the leek, turnip and yellow chicken or Seaweed custard with beef tendon and pike perch.

Roganic, Sino Plaza, UG/F 08, 255 Gloucester Road, Causeway Bay; +852 2817 8383

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7. Somm

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As the new Amber and Sushi Shikon marked its place in The Landmark Mandarin Oriental this year, so did French neo-bistro Somm. Offering an incredibly diverse selection of over 1,600 champagnes, wines and sakes, the restaurant also serves up some really fantastic dishes too. A concise and seasonal menu currently includes items such as freshly shucked Ebisu winter oysters or signature dishes such as Japanese Pork Belly with BBQ Sauce & Hakata Cabbage. All dishes can be thoughtfully paired with the sommelier's choice or guests can experiment themselves, making it the ideal restaurant for both wine newcomers and connoisseurs alike.

Somm, 7/F, The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, 15 Queen's Road Central, Central; +852 2132 0055

8. The Araki

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One more restaurant coming in from the British isles is Mitsuhiro Araki's namesake The Araki, which opened recently in Tsim Sha Tsui's 1881 Heritage. Having previously been awarded three Michelin stars in both Tokyo and London, one wonders if the stars will follow. The concept remains the same in the Hong Kong outpost and offers Araki's renowned style of sushi which honours the origins of Edomae. It therefore makes use of local seafood such as fresh Hong Kong tiger prawns, mantis shrimp and clams. Paving the way for non-Japanese sushi masters. Expect more than the sushi you know, as that is certainly what we experienced here.

The Araki, Block, House 1881, G/F, Stable, 2A Canton Road, Tsim Sha Tsui; +852 3988 0000

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The post 8 of Our Favourite Hong Kong Restaurant Openings of 2019 appeared first on Prestige Online - Hong Kong.