Celebrity Life
8 of Our Favourite Hong Kong Restaurant Openings of 2019
Never one to shy away from new openings, the dining scene in Hong Kong continued to thrive in 2019. We witnessed the launch of some very exciting new concepts as well as restaurants that travelled from overseas to join our dynamic city. From contemporary French cuisine and a luxury smokehouse and grill, to a modern approach to Japanese sushi and even a wine-focused eatery -- we had it all, and then some. But if you're wondering which ones came up top, then read on for our top eight restaurant openings of 2019.
1. Cornerstone
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Shane Osborn, the Australian chef behind one Michelin-starred Arcane and Netflix’s Final Table contestant, did it again with his second establishment Cornerstone. Occupying a smaller 24-seat space on Hollywood Road, the modern bistro feels more relaxed but is every bit as fantastic. Offering all-day dining, the menu is short, concise and filled with items that showcase the season's best produce, in true Australian style. Simple, but refined, and extremely satisfying, the food hits all the right notes and dishes are updated regularly. Signatures include a Salmon with herb cream cheese, homemade malt bread and cornichons, as well as a hearty mushroom Tagliatelle with optional white truffle (when the season is right).
Cornerstone, 49 Hollywood Road, Central
2. Henry
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When former Rhoda chef Nathan Green left the Ritz-Carlton, we all waited in anticipation to find out where he might turn up next. Thankfully, fans of his work will be pleased to know he did not go far. For he is now the Chef de Cuisine of the American grill, smokehouse and butcher concept Henry. Located in yet another opening of the year, Rosewood Hong Kong, Henry offers a menu inspired by the flavours and ingredients of America’s southern states. From premium cuts and signature meats such as the 44 Farms Texas whisky and ash-aged beef, T-bone and porterhouse, to dishes including a Butcher’s shop terrine, Henry's burger and an indulgent Mac & cheese with devilled lobster.
Henry, Level Five, Rosewood Hong Kong, 18 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui; +852 3891 8732
3. L'Envol
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Hong Kong has many French fine dining options to choose from, but when the restaurant is led by seasoned chef Olivier Elzer, it's worth paying extra attention to. Recently awarded its first Michelin star, L'Envol offers innovative French gastronomy with curated tasting menus. During our first visit, we enjoyed beautifully presented dishes that were executed with precision and always remained balanced in flavour. The menu changes seasonally, but is always excellent, and is offered in an equally impressive restaurant which comes complete with its own French cheese cave.
L'Envol, 3/F, The St. Regis Hong Kong, 1 Harbour Drive, Wan Chai; +852 2138 6818
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4. Louise
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It was only a matter of time that celebrated chef Julien Royer of Odette, Asia's Best Restaurant 2019, would spread his culinary wings to our shores and he did so with Louise earlier this year. The concept is inspired by the traditional French cuisine that Royer was brought up on, and is now led by Executive chef Franckelie Laloum. The menu showcases honest cooking with a modern twist using the best (and local where possible) ingredients. Highlight dishes include the sautéed Hong Kong frog legs with parsley and garlic chips, Angel hair pasta with Kristal caviar, and the roasted Hong Kong yellow chicken with Nigata rice en cocotte.
Louise, PMQ, 35 Aberdeen Street, Central; +852 2866 0300
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5. Mono
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If you were to guess the meaning of this restaurant's name, you probably wouldn't have thought it was connected to Mono-ha, the 1960s Japanese art movement. But this contemporary French restaurant is indeed inspired by the same essentialist approach. Hence, offering a single ingredients-driven tasting menu, which changes with the seasons. Furthermore, Petrus alum chef Ricardo Chaneton who also came from Mirazur; the World's Best Restaurant 2019, uses his background and memories to add South American nuances to his cuisine. The result of which is stunning. Think Ocean crudo with perfectly cooked seafood brightened with leche de tigre and a Miéral pigeon dish served with a deep and flavoursome 26-ingredient mole.
Mono, 5/F, 18 On Lan Street, Central; +852 2200 7000
6. Roganic
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Another new Hong Kong restaurant to be awarded its first Michelin star is overseas import Roganic. Hailing from London, acclaimed chef Simon Rogan has brought with him a restaurant that offers contemporary British cooking with the same farm-to-table concept as its sister. Having visited both restaurants, we got to know Rogan's cuisine quite well and found that his focus was always on letting the flavours of the ingredients speak for themselves. It's apparent in his exceptionally executed menu with seasonal dishes such as the leek, turnip and yellow chicken or Seaweed custard with beef tendon and pike perch.
Roganic, Sino Plaza, UG/F 08, 255 Gloucester Road, Causeway Bay; +852 2817 8383
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7. Somm
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As the new Amber and Sushi Shikon marked its place in The Landmark Mandarin Oriental this year, so did French neo-bistro Somm. Offering an incredibly diverse selection of over 1,600 champagnes, wines and sakes, the restaurant also serves up some really fantastic dishes too. A concise and seasonal menu currently includes items such as freshly shucked Ebisu winter oysters or signature dishes such as Japanese Pork Belly with BBQ Sauce & Hakata Cabbage. All dishes can be thoughtfully paired with the sommelier's choice or guests can experiment themselves, making it the ideal restaurant for both wine newcomers and connoisseurs alike.
Somm, 7/F, The Landmark Mandarin Oriental, 15 Queen's Road Central, Central; +852 2132 0055
8. The Araki
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One more restaurant coming in from the British isles is Mitsuhiro Araki's namesake The Araki, which opened recently in Tsim Sha Tsui's 1881 Heritage. Having previously been awarded three Michelin stars in both Tokyo and London, one wonders if the stars will follow. The concept remains the same in the Hong Kong outpost and offers Araki's renowned style of sushi which honours the origins of Edomae. It therefore makes use of local seafood such as fresh Hong Kong tiger prawns, mantis shrimp and clams. Paving the way for non-Japanese sushi masters. Expect more than the sushi you know, as that is certainly what we experienced here.
The Araki, Block, House 1881, G/F, Stable, 2A Canton Road, Tsim Sha Tsui; +852 3988 0000
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The post 8 of Our Favourite Hong Kong Restaurant Openings of 2019 appeared first on Prestige Online - Hong Kong.
Where Chefs Eat: Olivier Elzer of L’Envol at The St. Regis Hong Kong
Whether it’s an extravagant fine dining restaurant or a humble street side hawker stall, we are perpetually on the quest for delectable foods — whatever the occasion. So, for the ultimate insider scoop, who better to personally recommend the best eats around the world than top chefs who’ve seen and tasted it all. We go right to the source as international culinary legends reveal where they eat and what they order when the aprons come off.
Having been in Hong Kong for 10 years now, Culinary Director Olivier Elzer of French restaurant L’Envol at The St. Regis Hong Kong is more than familiar with the culture and food preferences of the locals here. With a buzzing food scene and competitive options for fine dining in the city, chef Elzer gets creative when it comes to putting forth fresh ideas on a plate. When out of the kitchen and into the dining room, here’s where the French native likes to unwind and indulge in Hong Kong.
For an evening of fine dining…
[caption id="attachment_171324" align="alignnone" width="3317"] Haku[/caption]
I have three favourite fine dining restaurants I like to visit in Hong Kong:
Caprice at The Four Seasons is one of my favourite fine dining restaurants. The whole experience is very elegant and exactly what you can expect from a 3 Michelin-starred French fine dining experience. The chef is great at creating well-balanced dishes with amazing flavours and they also have a beautiful wine list that always excites me.
Haku, is another of my favourite. Chef Agustin Balbi is very talented – as a western chef, he’s very knowledgeable when it comes to Japanese cuisine. He’s also really innovative, which surprises me every time as I’m always trying new dishes when I’m there. My favourite dish that I always order is the abalone dish.
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L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon is also definitely a favourite of mine. As you know, Joël Robuchon was my mentor and one of the most celebrated French chefs of his era. The Robuchon family is still very close to my heart – it’s always great to go to the restaurant and sample some new dishes and signature dishes by a Robuchon – every visit is like returning home.
Caprice, Four Seasons Hong Kong, 8 Finance Street, Central, Hong Kong; +852 3196 8888
HAKU, OT G04B, Ocean Terminal, Harbour City, Tsim Sha Tsui; +852 21115 9965
L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon, Shop 401, Landmark, 15 Queen’s Road Central, Central; +852 2166 9000
For a cheeky cheat meal…
Belon in SoHo is my go to for a cheat meal if I want to eat out. Every time I’m there, I order their foie gras, scallops, and ravioli with cepes mushroom.
But when it comes to my all-time favourite Chinese cheat meal, nothing beats a whole roast goose which I can usually finish entirely on my own.
Belon, 41 Elgin Street, Central; +852 2152 2872
For a romantic date night…
To eat in, I usually opt for something simple like Champagne and caviar.
[caption id="attachment_171311" align="alignnone" width="800"] Le Pan[/caption]
But for a special occasion, we like to eat at Le Pan. The restaurant is located in Kowloon Bay, and what makes it unique is the whole experience – the chef is very talented, the kitchen team does some very interesting and unique work and the whole set up is very beautiful. The team surprises us every time with the menu and it’s a great experience overall.
Le Pan, Goldin Financial Global Centre, 17 Kai Cheung Road, Kowloon Bay; +852 3188 2355
For getting friends and family together…
Locanda dell’ Angelo is a great restaurant for large family or friends gatherings. The atmosphere is great as they have an open kitchen, and they serve great Sicilian dishes. The chef is Angelo Aglianó who mentored under Joël Robuchon, too. I recommend trying their red prawn pasta, as it’s very fresh and flavoursome and something I always order.
Locanda dell’ Angelo, 10 – 12 Yuen Yuen Street, Happy Valley; +852 3709 2788
For a healthy detox…
To eat out, I like to go to Daigo by Mori Tomoaki located in Sheung Wan. It’s a Japanese restaurant serving some of the best sushi and sashimi. The one thing I love most about this place is that you get to sit at the bar and admire the knife skills and attention to detail in the plating – there’s something really exciting about seeing the food prepared right in front of you.
The chef decides on the whole menu for you, so you know it’s always fresh and seasonal. This place is usually very packed as it’s a small shop with limited seats, so be sure you make reservations if you’re planning a visit.
Daigo by Mori Tomoaki, 29 Bridges Street, Tai Ping Shan, Sheung Wan; +852 2979 5977
For happy hour tipples…
Avize in Causeway Bay. This place is actually a shop! They have an impressive list of wine and champagnes from their cellar. It’s always a great time when a large group of us go there. You can sample different kinds of wine and discover some new wineries. And of course, you can also buy your favourite ones to enjoy back at home as well.
Avize, 17 Moreton Terrace, Causeway Bay; +852 2567 0883
What’s happening at L’Envol?
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In order to keep our customers on their toes, it’s really important to bring fresh ideas to the restaurant. That’s why we change our lunch menus weekly and update our Prestige, Signature and Decouverte menus seasonally. Recently, we launched our Prestige seasonal menu which is focused on caviar and each of the eight dishes is paired with distinct, hand-selected species to complement the ingredients on the plate. Not to mention our extensive wine and Champagne list (we have over 800 Champagne labels!) that will pair beautifully with our dishes. We invite our guests to return time and time again, but for a new experience each time.
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The post Where Chefs Eat: Olivier Elzer of L’Envol at The St. Regis Hong Kong appeared first on Prestige Online - Hong Kong.
Where Chefs Eat: Agustin Balbi of HAKU
Whether it’s an extravagant fine dining restaurant or a humble street side hawker stall, we are perpetually on the quest for delectable foods -- whatever the occasion. So, for the ultimate insider scoop, who better to personally recommend the best eats around the world than top chefs who’ve seen and tasted it all. We go right to the source as international culinary legends reveal where they eat and what they order when the aprons come off.
Chef Agustin Balbi is no newcomer to the dining scene. His road into the culinary arts began when he was 15 years old, inspired by the cooking and hospitality of his Spanish grandmother. Since then, he has garnered experience from kitchens all around the world, including Argentina, United States and Japan. Currently, Agustin Balbi is the executive chef of innovative Japanese restaurant, HAKU. Today, the award-winning chef lets us in on his favourite places to wine and dine in Hong Kong and abroad.
For an evening of fine dining…
I really have a passion for kaiseki [Japanese haute] cuisine and Kitcho in Kyoto for me is a very special place. Of course, the food is refined but also the environment – with the tatami rooms and servers in their traditional kimonos – makes the whole experience something unique. It is truly a place where the word fine is best described and applied in all the senses.
[caption id="attachment_169417" align="alignnone" width="6720"] L’Armur Beluga No.7 W3, seared wagyu tenderloin served alongside blinis topped with beef marrow and Beluga caviar at L'Envol[/caption]
I also really love Olivier Elzer’s new place, L'Envol. There is a very spacious and beautiful dining room with an open kitchen. The cuisine is super tasty and refined – it’s hands down one of my favourites in Hong Kong. The service is top notch and the quality of everything is really another level. Food, service, hospitality are at its best here, and I always leave this place not only full but with a sense of true happiness.
Kitcho, 5-8 Sagatenryuji Susukinobabacho, Ukyo Ward, Kyoto; +81 75 881 1101
L’Envol, The St Regis Hong Kong, 1 Harbour Drive, Wan Chai, Hong Kong; +852 2138 6818
For a cheeky cheat meal…
Yakitori Hachibei in Japan is a super fun and elegant place. It’s a perfect place for friends to get together and enjoy amazing yakitori and highballs counter-style and share a conversation. It’s also great to watch the chefs cooking all that delicious skewers right before you.
Yakitori Hachibei, various locations across Japan
For a romantic date night…
[caption id="attachment_169418" align="alignnone" width="930"] Laska with king crab, confit egg and Sudachi lime at Caprice[/caption]
The perfect place for this is Caprice at Four Seasons in Hong Kong. It is elegant and classy and of course serves excellent food with impeccable service. You can’t beat the view here and the wine list is out of this world! I love going there with my wife on date nights as Caprice just ticks all the boxes.
Caprice, Four Seasons Hong Kong, 8 Finance Street, Central, Hong Kong; +852 3196 8888
For getting friends and family together…
I love going to La Paloma for a fun night out with friends. Ricky and Alex who work there are amazing and they know how to treat people and offer that homey feeling. The food is delicious and great to share, and the sangrias are super fun too.
La Paloma, 189 Queen's Road West, Sai Ying Pun, Hong Kong; +852 2291 6161
For a healthy detox…
Nectar is quite a special place in terms of its whole philosophy and the way they are very serious about executing their vision. It’s very challenging to do what they do. The food is really exquisite and surprising – the cheese cart is made from nuts and other delicious bites are stimulating for both the mind and the body.
Nectar, Centrestage, 108 Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong; +852 2873 3353
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For happy hour tipples…
[caption id="attachment_169415" align="alignnone" width="5899"] The view on the terrace at La Rambla by Catalunya[/caption]
La Rambla by Catalunya is amazing – the view, the terrace and the people make a perfect combo for happy hour and dinner. The food and drinks are great! I imagine if I worked in an office, I will be there a lot after work for a drink and a bite which will probably lead to a full on dinner.
La Rambla by Catalunya, ifc mall, 8 Finance Street, Central; +852 2661 1161
What's happening at HAKU?
We are very excited for this coming year-end and we will soon be launching our new autumn menu with the best produce from Japan and Spain. This truly is my favourite season of the year to cook. We are also very much looking forward to 2020 as we prepare for exciting new collaborations with amazing chefs from all over the world.
The post Where Chefs Eat: Agustin Balbi of HAKU appeared first on Prestige Online - Hong Kong.
Review: L’Envol Takes Off with Fine French Cuisine and Lands Perfectly Balanced on Our Plates
I consider myself a fairly balanced person: I’m quick to sidestep monotony and committed to a respectable work-life balance without obsessing over that other balance (the one in my bank account). Suffice to say that balance is a rather important element that I, along with many other professionals in the city, strive for. So when the weight of the work week was becoming a little heavy, it felt felicitous to visit the French fine-dining restaurant L’Envol.
[caption id="attachment_148934" align="alignnone" width="1654"] Chef Olivier Elzer is now the Culinary Director at French restaurant L'Envol.[/caption]
The new restaurant is headed by lauded French chef Olivier Elzer, who cut his teeth working for culinary greats Joël Robuchon and Pierre Gagnaire, before his own restaurant, Seasons, earned a Michelin star in 2015. Having left that restaurant in 2017 to pursue other projects, I was delighted to hear that Elzer was back in the kitchen knocking out his unique and inventive approach to French cuisine once more. L’Envol, meaning "the flight" in French, is located in The St. Regis Hong Kong -- one of Hong Kong’s newest luxury hotels that has since become the haunt of choice for the city’s social elite and incoming travellers looking to indulge.
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I take the lift up to the third-floor restaurant and upon entering, notice the large open kitchen that spans the length of the main dining area like a large window display. It’s a spacious work area where chefs can be seen whizzing around prepping the meal ahead. The dining room is tastefully designed as acclaimed designer André Fu’s interpretation of a contemporary French salon. Eschewing elaborate ornaments and gaudy finishings, the space is instead sumptuous and stylish. A palette of stone grey, pewter and soft creams wrap the room with hand-painted silks that flow along the furnishings and walls, while the marble floor, chandeliers and gold accents fortify a classic elegance throughout.
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Then, I discover the cheese and wine cave: Holding 25 different varieties of cheese from France, its pungent aroma fills the air and I vow to get a cheese plate for dessert. Feeling sufficiently spoilt in the posh surroundings, I promptly take my seat to sample some canapés, including a cube of foie gras with ginger that sparks both my excitement and appetite. Others are less notable, except for crackers dipped in a lush cream and chive sauce from Alsace, where Elzer was raised. A warm assortment of bread also arrives; I opt for black rye which pairs fantastically with luscious Champagne butter. I am, however, quick to withdraw from the carb-loaded attack as the menu indicates that this is just the precursor to the five-course dinner “journey”.
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Meals come with informative wine recommendations from Chief Sommelier Tristan Pommier and for me, a crisp Chablis takes us through to the first course: a tasting of the black pearls of caviar from La Maison Nordique. I dive into the two dishes and begin with the delicate-tasting Ossetra harvested from Russian sturgeon. It’s layered with beef consommé jelly and horseradish topped with the sweet, nutty pops of caviar. Next, a textural play of sweet razor clam tartare is flourished with horseradish cream and the larger, briny beads of Shadi which come from schrenkii fish in China. It’s a really strong start and pulls me into submission for the courses to come.
Along with Elzer’s comeback is the return of his signature five-spiced tuna, which fans may fondly remember from Seasons. Lightly seared slices of tuna flirt with the zing of citrus and crispy shallots, mellowed by creamy, crushed avocado. Although not exactly the inspired new dish that I’d hoped for, it remains a favourite and a good balance of flavours that I gladly welcome onto L’Envol’s menu.
[caption id="attachment_148939" align="alignnone" width="1890"] Roasted John Dory is served with an aubergine confit and red wine sauce.[/caption]
Next there are more wholesome dishes: Roasted John Dory from Brittany reels us in while dismissing the antiquated wine adage of “white with fish and red with meat”. Cooked in white wine, the fish is more firm than flaky, but it makes for the ideal canvas painted with rich red wine sauce and meaty Fukuokan aubergine confit. A change of wine pace moves us onto a supple Syrah from Maxime Graillot Domaine des Lises, which is fruity and spicy on the nose but delightfully savoury on the palate. It’s paired with the next dish of the night, a flawlessly seared beef fillet from Kagoshima, glazed in glossy overcoat of French morels, escorted by crunchy potato tubes and the pointy tips of spring: Jérôme Galis green asparagus.
[caption id="attachment_148937" align="alignnone" width="2244"] Poached rhubarb, lemon Chantilly cream and white peach sorbet.[/caption]
Contrary to expectations, dessert is light, bright and fresh. Rhubarb poached in a verbena syrup sits atop lemon Chantilly cream and a soft square sponge. But it’s the quenelle of white peach sorbet that injects a taste of summer and the sharp creaminess that the dish craves. The cheese trolley warrants a special commendation as it visits the tables like a French Santa Claus bearing decadent gifts. Our selection includes the mountain cheese Reblochon, soft and creamy Saint-Marcellin, Cathare goat cheese and the buttery classic Sainte Maures -- all of which are intensified in flavour with freshly cut honeycomb and slathered on warm ginger bread, which deserves credit all on its own, too.
Before I slip into a cheese-induced coma, I pry myself away from the trolley and into a taxi home, where I brood over the meal and how all the elements seemed to key into one another. As anticipated, Elzer’s skills illustrate impeccable control and execution, but it’s the blend of harmonised flavours and melodic sequence of menu items that are truly exemplary. Some old and some new, some sensational and some definitely tamer, but always perfectly balanced. So when I need the scales to be tipped upwards again, you know where you’ll find me.
Perfect for: celebrating special occasions and indulgent dining with loved ones
Hours: Daily for lunch from 12:00 noon to 2:30pm, and dinner from 6:30pm to 10:30pm
The post Review: L’Envol Takes Off with Fine French Cuisine and Lands Perfectly Balanced on Our Plates appeared first on Prestige Online - Hong Kong.