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As Couture Week comes to an end, here's our selection of the best shows we saw this season. 

Although having a certain celebrity couple consisting of an actress and a rapper-turned-semi-religious-figure at the front row of Schiaparelli was not the pop culture moment it had hoped to be, the Couture shows proved that fashion can be a strip of light in this covid-induced limbo. 

Here are some of our favourite shows from Couture Week Spring/Summer 2022 

SCHIAPARELLI

Schiaparelli’s Haute Couture has become somewhat a pièce de résistance during the couture season. This time around, Daniel Roseberry delves into the mesmerising and, a bit frightening, worlds of sci-fi and takes us with him. As of late, Roseberry limits himself to the trinity of golds, blacks and whites in his palette, which, in turn, allows him to keep the audience’s focus on the extraordinary architecture of each piece. The gilded cage of a dress – with its stoned tentacles wrapping the body – created a vision of some Aztec deity (this author couldn’t help but think of late Thierry Mugler’s corsetry work). Some looks quite literally feature golden Saturn rings attached to cinched bustiers.

CHRISTIAN DIOR

It was all too vague, at first, to tell what exactly was the inspiration behind Maria Grazia Chiuri’s Haute Couture collection for Dior. Turns out, that was precisely the point. The designer chose her latest show to become a celebration of human connection and togetherness – the two components so inherent to the making of any couture collection. Chiuri creates an immaculate symphony of greys (hi, Kim Jones’ Fall 2022), creams and whites, with silhouettes so pure and embroidery so delicate, it feels like a light midsummer slumber. Chiuri’s signature off-shoulder dresses have undergone another transformation – this time – through adornment with pearl embellishments or styling with shimmery leggings underneath.

ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER

Alexandre Vuthier’s Spring 2022 Couture collection transported his loyal fans into the world of perpetual partying – power suits strode alongside feather-trimmed liquid gowns and slip dresses. Vauthier stays true to his signature palette of blacks, teals and reds with occasional pops of white, grey and baby pink. The collection is a dazzler. The Old Hollywood references are apparent: there is the crystal-studded padded dress à la Joan Crawford, Katharine Hepburn’s iconic grey power suit and Vauthier’s glamorous take on the flapper dress, updated with airy petals of chiffon and a gathered bodice. The show-stealer is, by far, the black velvet bodysuit with a feather-embellished sequined cape – an elevated take on a variation of the 1920s circus costume.

CHANEL

For a heritage brand like Chanel, every collection inadvertently becomes a retrospection. This time around, Virginie Viard looks at the 1920s as the source of her inspiration. To grant the collection a summery feel, Viard transforms the classic flapper dress into a garment more modern and dynamic by switching heavy beading with bits of chiffon. The roaring twenties staple – ostrich – is a prominent fixture in the line-up; the feather-embellished skirt with a side slit appears under a sculptured one-shoulder top, where camelia patterns are laid with black-and-white sequins. Bottom-heavy silhouettes dominated the Chanel runway, not only in the form of flapper elements, may I add, but also as white silk tulip skirts, paired so tastefully with stoned and frilled crop tops.

ULYANA SERGEENKO

Couture Spring 2022 seemed to have been an opportunity for the designers to dive into their roaring twenties fantasies. Russian designer Ulyana Sergeenko veered away from the quintessential 1920s costume and, instead, embraced the works of cubist artists and art deco aesthetics in her collection. Skirts, dresses and bustiers adopted geometric motives in the forms of embroidery that accentuated hourglass silhouettes. Sergeenko’s penchant for heavy-handed glamour made itself known as beads and crystals trickled down the black silk corset of a sleeveless dress styled with a boa made out of silk and chiffon.

JEAN PAUL GAULTIER

Glenn Martens's interpretation of of Jean Paul Gaultier's heritage for the Spring 2022 Couture collection was a dream. Canons of Gaultier’s own devisal – tiger prints, aerodynamic stripes, corsets – were masterfully interwoven with Marten’s subversive sensibilities; take the knit dress with sharp coral protrusions, for example. The collection seemed like Le Bal of the 22^nd century – emerald-green silk dress with the gathered armour-like bodice and cloud-shape skirt stole the show. Styling of satin corsets with denim seemed fresh and not at all watered down the high-octane feel of the show, while the colourful dress comprised of multiple layered sheer panels that revealed the stomach was the epitome of the Gaultier-Martens creative conversation. 

VIKTOR & ROLF

High-fashion vampires walked down the Viktor & Rolf Couture runway this season. Rolf Snoeren wanted to lean into the Nosferatu lore in interpreting the creature’s signature neckless look. The result was enticingly bizarre outfits ranging from suits to colonial dresses and coats. Snoeren and Hosrting devised a delicious, campy ambiance, fully utilising the literal references of the iconic horror films without stripping them to barely-recognisable motifs and – instead – offering a straightforward interpretation of the vampiric memorabilia – like Sadie Frost’s white funeral dress from Bram Stoker’s Dracula or Nosferatu’s very own cape.

VALENTINO

Pierpaolo Piccioli once again proves to be the couturier of the future. Valentino’s Creative Director shatters the elitist perception of high fashion by curating an inclusive show that features a diverse range of bodies, ages and genders (something pioneered by the late Manfred Thierry Mugler in the late nineties). The show had Valentino’s signature chiffon, ruffles, explosive greens and fuchsias. Piccioli declared that fuller people have what it takes to carry couture, as demonstrated by the chocolate-brown dress hand-embroidered with two kilos of glass beads. It was refreshing to – also – see men appear on couture runways, especially in the chainmail-inspired embroidered two-piece.

ZUHAIR MURAD

For his Couture 2022 show, Zuhair Murad opened the doorway to the Imaginarium of Rafael Sabatini, where Captain Blood traversed the seven seas. Murad applied his ingenuity and feel for glamour to create a pirate-inspired fairy tale, where the spectres of models walked in Tricorn hats dripping in jewels. Pirate bandana made an appearance in an ensemble with a suave pleated gauze gown, conveying the sense of romanticism and longing for adventure. The 18th-century-inspired tenues de soirée read ethereal and daring – at the same time – with tattoo-esque prints plumbing the depths of unapologetic sensuality without even the faintest hint of vulgarity.

FENDI

Kim Jones was the latest couturier inspired by the sci-fi world: Dune and Star Wars to be exact. Fendi’s métier was an ode to Rome imagined through a lens of some sort of space odyssey. The models embodied celestial goddesses in satin, velvet and sheer evening gowns. The floor-length number with tulip-shaped sleeves bore the image of the Virgin Mary, which inspired solemn melancholy. Baroque prints on some of the shorter pieces conveyed that alluring darkness – so characteristic of the monumental science fiction works à la Prometheus. There was a chiton-inspired midnight-blue silk dress trimmed with beads and a white mini dress with a print of an ancient Roman statue – both, among the rest, paying homage to the House’s heritage.

The post Runway Report: Best of Couture Week Spring/Summer 2022 appeared first on Prestige Online - Hong Kong.

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In our autumn/winter 2021 style spotlight, we break down the best in this season’s womenswear runways.

What to wear in a pandemic? Something to remember or something to forget? Something in between perhaps, with many fruitful explorations coming from soul-searching that middle ground.

VALENTINO 

THE BIG PICTURE

The autumn/winter 2021 collection at Valentino is all about precision, with such a pointedly restricted palette – other than monochrome, there was just the odd injection of sand, gold and beige. How eye-catching are the razor-sharp lapels that give all those shirt and jacket combos a subversive ’70s quality? The collection is anchored on the contrasts and shapes created with black and white using sheers, mesh-effect constructions and graphic prints – the most intriguing signature here is when cut-outs reveal what lies beneath.

THE FINE PRINT

Accessories boldly decorated with studs, quilting and leather textures. Slashed or meshed items layered over and under. Killer capes, both long and short.

CHRISTIAN DIOR

THE BIG PICTURE

Fairy tales and their symbols take a mysterious and occasionally dark turn at Christian Dior’s autumn/winter 2021 collection. The runway featured dramatic capes (Red Riding Hood vibes!) and winter cashmere coats worthy of a Grimm Brother’s tale. Although there are plenty of body-skimming pleats and romantic princesses gowns, the collection rides that precarious line between innocence and sensual subversion. Titled Disturbing Beauty, this is a collection full of fantasy, escapism, mystery and provocation – almost a sartorial version of a labyrinthine Gothic novel or story.

THE FINE PRINT

Sensual pleats that are almost sheer, subversively shiny lacquered shoes and boots. Gothic overtones abound.  

GIVENCHY

THE BIG PICTURE 

Matthew Williams’ Givenchy “debut” is all about extravagance – with sleek and modern tailoring, hulking faux fur coats and matching mittens (that look more like boxing gloves than winter wear), structured puffer jackets and cupless bralettes. Lavish but utilitarian, luxurious but comfortable. The looks were mostly in black, chocolate brown and off-white, with pastel purple, deep green and bright red also making appearances. An accessory highlight – the 4G flask with strap bag, making a reappearance from spring/summer.

THE FINE PRINT

Head-to-toe monochromatic looks featuring huge fur coats and mitts, slim tailored suits, elevated streetwear, leather, barely-there bralettes and ski masks.

GUCCI

THE BIG PICTURE

The Aria collection debuted in a special film by Floria Sigismondi and Alessandro Michele, with music credits spanning from Lil Pump’s “Gucci Gang” to Bhad Bhabi’s “Gucci Flip Flops” and Rick Ross’s “Green Gucci Suit”. The equestrian-inspired looks also seem to contain elements of bondage – with helmets, fringes, saddlebags, leather harnesses, riding crops (ie, whips) and boots. We like the accessories best – the big dangling septum rings, the anatomical heart-shaped clutch and necklaces with letter pendants spelling out the brand’s name. Also hard to miss? The logo-printed pieces that stamp Balenciaga’s iconography over Gucci’s emblem.

THE FINE PRINT

Relaxed and retro silhouettes. Nods to horseback riding and the ’70s. Bold, psychedelic prints.

BURBERRY

THE BIG PICTURE 

Sharp and graphic, the autumn/winter 2021 collection from Italian designer Richardo Tisci is far removed from all the gentle bohemian flavours we’ve had so much of lately. Black, white, tans and neutrals made a decisive statement about feminine power on the runway, punctuated by sharp pinks and reds and flashes of full-on metallic evening shimmer. Tisci’s adjustment with the inevitable slowing-down in fashion has resulted in something rather positive and powerful. Structured jackets, trousers and coats were statement-making. Eco-shearling and furs lend a sensual hand this autumn and the cleverest signatures this season involve the deconstructed elements, such as on coat lapels. 

THE FINE PRINT

Roll-neck collars, capes, extended shoulders and sharp silhouettes. Flag-like stripes and shapes were a modern play on the Burberry check and the Union Flag. 

PRADA

THE BIG PICTURE

After what can politely be described as a difficult year, there’s a sentiment that amounts to precarious optimism at Prada. Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, the Italian brand’s co-creative directors, are putting a spring in our steps with outfits that balance serious structured tailoring with capricious details. Those glorious big coats (so often vintage-inspired) in solid block colours are paired with vibrant graphic prints on skin-tight undershirts, gloves, tights and boots. Fun furry trims provide much delight, a hint at perhaps more opulent times to come.

THE FINE PRINT

Swirling ’60s and ’70s graphic prints, alongside wool, sequins and fur. Some stellar collectable accessories like those leather gloves with zipper pouches.

HERMÈS

THE BIG PICTURE

“It’s urgent now to live again,” Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski told Vogue in a post-show interview. “The message to the world is that I have this conviction of designing clothes for a confident woman. It was about resilience.” The autumn/winter 2021 collection makes use of fabrics such as denim, fine leather and suede for looks that are truly ready-to-wear, right off the runway out into the world. Colours are warm and comforting – in burnt reds, blush pinks and chocolate browns. Don’t miss the details: leather cuffs and belts, and tiny bags just big enough to fit your phone, a card and a lipstick bullet.

THE FINE PRINT

Sturdy materials and neutral colours (denim is a neutral!). “Rich aunty” looks – sophisticated, safe and made-to-last.

CHANEL

THE BIG PICTURE 

Virginie Viard, creative director of Chanel, describes the autumn/winter 2021 collection as a mix of two influences – the ambience of ski holidays (which she adores) and Parisian chic from the 1970s to the present. The looks play with sensuality and contrasts, with voluminous winter coats over bare legs; sheer, light chiffon and crêpe de Chine paired with solid, heavy tweed; and long coats over fragile, slinky dresses. This line-up ranges from muted sophistication to the downright whimsical, usually achieved through bold bolts of colour and material contrasts.

THE FINE PRINT

Luxurious resort outfits for a winter retreat. Tweed suits in classic form-fitting silhouettes, cropped knit sweaters and structured jackets, tiny handbags, chain embellishments, faux fur and shearling.

LOEWE

THE BIG PICTURE 

Loewe’s autumn/winter 2021 collection is avant-garde – there are no ifs and buts about it. The palette is an explosion of acrylic hues (canary yellow, cobalt blue, forest green, pinks and reds) and the silhouettes are big and abstract. The looks feature bold geometric prints striping across quilted coats and asymmetrical skirts, over-the-top circular and square-buckle embellishments, giant tassels on the hems of suede trouser suits and leather harness-vests over knitted wear. A standout accessory? The Anagram cut-out tote in calfskin that pairs beautifully with the matching Anagram belt.

THE FINE PRINT

Canary yellow. Abstract silhouettes. Psychedelic prints. All very audacious and perfect for making big statements.

LOUIS VUITTON

THE BIG PICTURE 

Louis Vuitton’s digital runway had models in pieces that paid tribute to the Golden Age (the Age of Enlightenment), walking through the Michelangelo Gallery of the Louvre Museum. A collaboration with Italian art and design atelier Fornasetti, the pieces were fashion-forward with plenty of streetwear elements (cropped bombers, sweatpants, logos) and slouchy, relaxed fitting. We love the wide shoulders – also present in LV’s spring/summer show – and the Greco-Roman nods, with gladiator-inspired dresses and boots, and Fornasetti drawings of ancient statues and motifs (locks and keys) printed on clothing and handbags.

THE FINE PRINT

Relaxed, slouchy fits. Big and wide silhouettes. Mixing athleisure with evening wear and plenty of layering. 

MIU MIU

THE BIG PICTURE 

Captured in the Italian ski resort of Cortina d’Ampezzo, Miu Miu’s models took a “voyage through the mountains” with a show in the snow. Each look brings out a feeling of the bitter, frigid cold – with knitted balaclavas and scarfs, faux-fur mittens and knee-high mountain boots, and quilted padded jumpsuits. The looks paired heavy winter wear with soft lingerie – utilitarian ski suits layered over crocheted satin camisoles, sheer tops with padded trousers, and long structured coats that revealed embellished satin-silk slip dresses underneath.

THE FINE PRINT

Heavy winterwear and soft lingerie. Pastel tones like lilac and lavender, blush and rose pinks, baby blue as well as deeper shades.

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

THE BIG PICTURE 

Paul Andrew, Salvatore Ferragamo’s creative director, aims to “disrupt and upgrade 21st-century tropes of uniform” with the Future Positive collection. Moving away from tailored suits in safe colours, models on the digital runway wore shiny parkas and trousers, slouchy wide-shouldered jackets, clear plastic-looking ponchos (biodegradable PVC), and outerwear with fringed yarn and space boots. The looks featured a fluorescent colour palette (cobalt blue, neon orange, lime green) against a sci-fi-, outer-space-themed backdrop – giving the collection a youthful and futuristic feel.

THE FINE PRINT

Influences from sci-fi cinema. Utilitarian fits. Relaxed and casual tailoring. Shiny and metallic finishes.

FENDI

THE BIG PICTURE 

With a bevy of neutral-toned monochromatic outfits, Kim Jones at Fendi is forcing more focus on texture, silhouette and contrasting fabric surfaces (shiny satins, fluffy furs, supple leathers, tactile knits and draped silks) this collection. Ivory, concrete greys, muted moss, camel, chocolate and khaki – the palette follows a very linear journey. It’s full of sophistication, elegance and movement – Jones took as his muses the five Fendi sisters (and the real women he’s surrounded by) – hence such a wearable collection, especially those divine shirt-and-skirt combos. With upcycled furs and repurposed shearling, even Fendi (known for its commitment to real fur) has made some inroads into a more sustainable way in luxury.

THE FINE PRINT

Heritage details are dropped into the collection, such as revisiting the Baguette bag. Monograms laser cut into suede. Clever and artisanal constructions (if you look close enough).

VERSACE

THE BIG PICTURE 

Presented inside a vertical maze, Versace’s digital runway featured the fashion house’s new maze-like print (a rework of the brand’s signature Greca pattern and log) on everything from trouser suits to coloured tights, shiny minidresses and midi skirts, belted coats, opera-style long gloves and handbags. The collection was all about sharp angles and clean lines in a strong colour palette – black and browns (camel, tan, beige, walnut), olive green, royal blue and brights (canary yellow, strawberry red, fuchsia pink).

THE FINE PRINT

Bright pops of colour and bold bandanas. Rounded shoulders and cinched waists. The new Versace print – a dynamic 3D maze.

CHLOÉ

THE BIG PICTURE 

With gentle, natural tones and plenty of padding, quilting and pleating, Gabriela Hearst’s Chloé autumn/winter 2021 collection hit on feminine, pure notes. There was a protective, outdoorsy theme throughout the collection that nodded to sand dunes, safaris and eco-resorts, and, finally, outdoorsy mountain chic with oversized patchwork padded coats. Graphically, V necklines and V shapes on the torso were achieved by oversized zip-ups, pinafores or frills. 

Sustainability is at the heart of Hearst’s work, from production (eco furs and shearling) to aesthetics, making her mark on the French brand by decreasing this season’s environmental footprint by 400 compared to the last autumn winter’s line.

THE FINE PRINT

Big tasselled boots and slouchy bags. Gorgeous knits that skim the body. Stripes and earthy tones paired with caped outfits. Long ankle-skimming hemlines are the order of the day. 

The post Givenchy, Fendi and Versace: Autumn/Winter 2021 Style Spotlight appeared first on Prestige Online - Hong Kong.

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