Celebrity Life
Runway Report: New York Fashion Week Day 5 Recap
On February 11th, New York fashion week returned and blessed us all with the latest collections of the city’s veterans, some fresh faces and enticing guest appearances.
Here is our picks of the most memorable shows from the day 5 of New York Fashion Week:
Peter Do
Peter Do Autumn 2022 was the most personal collection for the designer to date. Tailoring was at the core of the line-up, with floor-length coats, jackets and skirts as pleasant dramatic accents. As always, Do approaches his work from an innovative standpoint: rolled-up pants matched with mega-exaggerated boxy blazers and long shirts that reveal stripes of skin read as a potion of meticulously measured 80s and early aughts references. The floor-length sleeveless jackets with cape lapels mix Do’s trademark sensuality with bits and pieces of the newfound slouchy garçonness
Michael Kors
Michael Kors doubles down on his signature glamourous Upper East Side silhouettes. Once again, it hits the mark perfectly. Croc miniskirts appeared with turtlenecks and alongside a wide variety of exuberant fur coats, contributing to the sensual top-heavy silhouettes. Kors shows his mastery in dressing a not just a working woman, whose archetypes have been clearly defined in the 2000s and reinvented a million times ever since, but a woman with complete agency. Largely monochromatic looks that ranged from slouchy suits to sparkling liquid gowns construed the perfect wardrobe for Manhattan glitterati.
Jonathan Simkhai
His Autumn 2022 collection Jonathan Simkhai launched in the Metaverse before debuting it in the physical realm. The brand’s focus this season is tailoring, with exception of a couple of fabulous jewel dresses. Crochet-framed cutouts on some pieces are quintessential Simkhai, which can’t be said about that one cobalt-blue suit with a tie belt. Vertical stripes in neutral emphasise even more the effortless and light-hearted vibe the designer attempts to convey.
Bibhu Mohapatra
Bibhu Mohapatra’s background in theatre costumes is evident in his Autumn 2022 collection, as conveyed by the intricately embellished gowns in silk, taffeta and velvet. Despite the show’s overall high-octane glamour, it seemed incredibly wearable. The patent-leather bodycon numbers strutted alongside fur coats and pleated dresses (some of them made from lamé) – almost entirely embracing playful asymmetries that made the collection feel fresher and more light-hearted.
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New York Fashion Week: 5 Trends we Loved From the Spring/Summer 2022 Shows
Welcome back, New York Fashion Week!
We were all kind, all optimistic and all armoured with very nice words about the virtual reality existence that fashion brands and their shows have surrendered to in the past year-or-so. The excitement and sweet, sweet sincerity about the return of runways; the return of a real-life audience; the return of after-parties, however, make it quite clear: there's nothing like a show experienced in real-time, in-person. The runway looks certainly did not disappoint in the few days counting down to the also-revived Met Gala — it was the bold, the brash and the beatific that led the way. Understandably. For the joy — the fun! — in clothes; in the institution, the designers, the people that keep this industry alive.
Below, just a handful of trends we saw, loved and can't wait to wear.
Trend #1: Hey, Your Bra's Showing
Call it merely an evolution of the Gen Z-staple cropped top, or call it a sartorial repercussion derived from our inability to extract limbs from the things we choose to wear (or not wear) as we amble around the house. Whatever you wish, underwear as outerwear — be it a bralette-adjacent top or corset-inspired tank complete with strips of boning anchored from ribcage to hipbone — was a ubiquitous sight across Spring/Summer 2022 shows, from Michael Kors’ opening look à la a red-lipped Kendall Jenner, to the triangle variations tucked beneath dopamine-bright cardigans at Coach.
Trend #2: Wallflowers Need Not Apply
There’s a healthy modicum of responsibility that comes with making entrances in full-body paillettes worn like an armour; like sheaths of chainmail donned pre-battle. The kind plated and sparkling at TOM FORD, encasing neither bodycon nor the genre of gowns you’d expect drifting along a long stretch of scarlet-red carpet. Instead, they’re embellishing everyday silhouettes. The tank top. The ribbed-knit. The basics rendered very much not so this season. On the topic of OTT designs, there were, too, an abundance of feathers at Prabal Gurung; top-to-toe satin at Christian Siriano; very fringed separates at Proenza Schouler. A season of fashion that’s all joy, all deep breaths and all — damn it, look at me.
Trend #3: Strapped In
The area extending from the crown of your head to your décolletage? Prime real estate. It's the space with the most screen time on FaceTime. On Zoom. On whatever chat applications you use to maintain some sort of truncated connection with long-distance friends, lovers and relatives. To keep those fair few inches interesting, Jonathan Simkhai makes a case for a very strappy yoke. Eckhaus Latta headlined with strips of the ribbed-knit fabric anchored at the armscye, tumbling past the upper arms. Maryam Nassir Zadeh, too, with spaghetti string-ties all asymmetric; then, layered; then, knotted and tethered across the shoulders like webbing.
Trend #4: Crafty
While you were collecting supplies for tie-dye, beaded necklaces and knitting and embroidery and crochet last summer, you’d be remiss not to imagine your favourite designers with the same knee-jerk inclination. Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough of Proenza Schouler made way for Kauai, for example, and sent their swishy, fringed designs down the runway with handmade leis from Maui. Joseph Altuzarra celebrated his NYC homecoming with shibori-dyed separates on a runway opened by none other than new-mother Gigi Hadid. Gabriela Hearst, always a proponent for craft, started her show with knit maxis embellished at the hips and ribcage with woven inserts handmade in collaboration with Naiomi Glasses and TahNibaa Naataanii of the Navajo Nation.
Trend #5: A Cold Summer
There's something to be said about transseasonal collections, with designs named for Spring/Summer sauntering down runways cosy in knits; in big coats; in anoraks; in shearling; in tartan check and brushed surfaces and houndstooth prints perhaps much more familiar emblazoned across collections another season away. Most patent was Coach's homage to Bonnie Cashin, a titan that made the brand a household name upon her helm, and someone superlatively described as a designer that "cut some of the best outerwear American fashion has ever seen." We're all going to need coats in a couple of months anyway. Or, on vacation — fingers crossed.
(Header image courtesy of Proenza Schouler's Instagram @proenzaschouler; Featured image courtesy of Eduardo Munoz Alvarez / AFP)
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Trends Forecast 2018: Toast
Embroidered Lace-Up Crepe Dress
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