Celebrity Life
Runway Report: New York Fashion Week Day 6 Recap
On February 11th, New York fashion week returned and blessed us all with the latest collections of the city’s veterans, some fresh faces and enticing guest appearances.
Here is our picks of the most memorable shows from the day 6 of New York Fashion Week:
Collina Strada
Collina Strada was among the latest vanguard of designers who explore the early aughts aesthetic – her take, however, tunes colours (and camp) to the max. Belted mini-skirts and baggy pants under asymmetric dresses echo the stylistic influences of Ashley Tisdale’s best looks back from her Suite Life era. Crushed velvet tracksuits – an unequivocal staple of the ‘00s zeitgeist – adopted 19th-century-inspired padded silhouettes, some turned into gowns even. The prints on hoodies, pants and T-shirts masterfully channelled the works of candy pop sirens of the decade’s past – think Avril Lavigne, The Veronicas and Katy Perry in Teenage Dream.
Prabal Gurung
Prabal Gurung’s autumn 2022 collection is somewhat a tale of two cities – Gurung’s base New York and his native Kathmandu. The Nepalese-born designer adapted the traditional choli blouse into flowy silk dresses in hypnotising tones; they also utilised traditional sari draping techniques. Despite the heavy-handed glamour of the collection, it still read as extremely wearable: the stretchy knit dresses, for example, can be endlessly styled with coats in fur, leather and wool and boots both tall and ankle-length, heeled or not.
Who Decides War
Who Decides War’s War Everard Best and Téla D’Amore are obsessed with details – the kind of maniacal almost scrupulosity is uncommon for streetwear brands. The use of appliqué and embroidery on textiles like denim signals the couture-level of expertise and, in some cases, even presents as subtle. WDW’s fabric manipulations don’t steal the spotlight from the silhouettes, but rather amplify it, as seen, for instance, from the feather-embellished boxy suit with distressed detailing.
Bach Mai
Texas-born Bach Mai is an American designer who aspires to be the next John Galliano, who, in turn, was once known as the new Charles James. With his autumn 2022 collection, Mai created a storyline through colour and construction, in which the soft, angelic palette of greens and pinks developed into crimsons and burgundies. Mai extracted the essence of the silk slip dress canon and reinvented it endlessly into ethereal looks by combining them with jackets (some of which were sleeveless) and elbow-length gloves.
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New York Fashion Week: 5 Trends we Loved From the Spring/Summer 2022 Shows
Welcome back, New York Fashion Week!
We were all kind, all optimistic and all armoured with very nice words about the virtual reality existence that fashion brands and their shows have surrendered to in the past year-or-so. The excitement and sweet, sweet sincerity about the return of runways; the return of a real-life audience; the return of after-parties, however, make it quite clear: there's nothing like a show experienced in real-time, in-person. The runway looks certainly did not disappoint in the few days counting down to the also-revived Met Gala — it was the bold, the brash and the beatific that led the way. Understandably. For the joy — the fun! — in clothes; in the institution, the designers, the people that keep this industry alive.
Below, just a handful of trends we saw, loved and can't wait to wear.
Trend #1: Hey, Your Bra's Showing
Call it merely an evolution of the Gen Z-staple cropped top, or call it a sartorial repercussion derived from our inability to extract limbs from the things we choose to wear (or not wear) as we amble around the house. Whatever you wish, underwear as outerwear — be it a bralette-adjacent top or corset-inspired tank complete with strips of boning anchored from ribcage to hipbone — was a ubiquitous sight across Spring/Summer 2022 shows, from Michael Kors’ opening look à la a red-lipped Kendall Jenner, to the triangle variations tucked beneath dopamine-bright cardigans at Coach.
Trend #2: Wallflowers Need Not Apply
There’s a healthy modicum of responsibility that comes with making entrances in full-body paillettes worn like an armour; like sheaths of chainmail donned pre-battle. The kind plated and sparkling at TOM FORD, encasing neither bodycon nor the genre of gowns you’d expect drifting along a long stretch of scarlet-red carpet. Instead, they’re embellishing everyday silhouettes. The tank top. The ribbed-knit. The basics rendered very much not so this season. On the topic of OTT designs, there were, too, an abundance of feathers at Prabal Gurung; top-to-toe satin at Christian Siriano; very fringed separates at Proenza Schouler. A season of fashion that’s all joy, all deep breaths and all — damn it, look at me.
Trend #3: Strapped In
The area extending from the crown of your head to your décolletage? Prime real estate. It's the space with the most screen time on FaceTime. On Zoom. On whatever chat applications you use to maintain some sort of truncated connection with long-distance friends, lovers and relatives. To keep those fair few inches interesting, Jonathan Simkhai makes a case for a very strappy yoke. Eckhaus Latta headlined with strips of the ribbed-knit fabric anchored at the armscye, tumbling past the upper arms. Maryam Nassir Zadeh, too, with spaghetti string-ties all asymmetric; then, layered; then, knotted and tethered across the shoulders like webbing.
Trend #4: Crafty
While you were collecting supplies for tie-dye, beaded necklaces and knitting and embroidery and crochet last summer, you’d be remiss not to imagine your favourite designers with the same knee-jerk inclination. Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough of Proenza Schouler made way for Kauai, for example, and sent their swishy, fringed designs down the runway with handmade leis from Maui. Joseph Altuzarra celebrated his NYC homecoming with shibori-dyed separates on a runway opened by none other than new-mother Gigi Hadid. Gabriela Hearst, always a proponent for craft, started her show with knit maxis embellished at the hips and ribcage with woven inserts handmade in collaboration with Naiomi Glasses and TahNibaa Naataanii of the Navajo Nation.
Trend #5: A Cold Summer
There's something to be said about transseasonal collections, with designs named for Spring/Summer sauntering down runways cosy in knits; in big coats; in anoraks; in shearling; in tartan check and brushed surfaces and houndstooth prints perhaps much more familiar emblazoned across collections another season away. Most patent was Coach's homage to Bonnie Cashin, a titan that made the brand a household name upon her helm, and someone superlatively described as a designer that "cut some of the best outerwear American fashion has ever seen." We're all going to need coats in a couple of months anyway. Or, on vacation — fingers crossed.
(Header image courtesy of Proenza Schouler's Instagram @proenzaschouler; Featured image courtesy of Eduardo Munoz Alvarez / AFP)
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The Best Looks from New York Fashion Week Fall 2020
New York Fashion Week just happened and some of our favourite designers like Oscar de la Renta, The Row, Brendon Maxwell, Tom Ford and more showed off some standout collections for Fall 2020. In case you missed it, here's your ultimate one-stop-shop look at some of the best shows.
Marc Jacobs
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Marc Jacobs did not disappoint with his show at the Park Avenue Armory. Inspired by American icons like Jackie O, Jacobs presented a collection that was filled with clean and simple cuts. A-line dresses accented with preppy collars and oversized coats paired with Mary Jane shoes arrived with bold colours like red, silver, yellow and more. Miley Cyrus then walked for the designer in a simple black bra and pants.
Prabal Gurung
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Nepalese-American fashion designer Prabal Gurung took to the Rainbow Room in Rockefeller Center to present a dreamy and elegant collection. When one thinks of New York City style, the immediate thought is all-black, but not for Gurung. He presented a collection of eccentric eveningwear that was fused with prints, bold colours and sensuality.
Rodarte
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Sisters Laura and Kate Mulleavy of Rodarte presented a gothic yet dark and romantic collection at St. Bartholomew’s Church on Park Avenue. Pulling references from 1992's Dracula, the duo re-imagined the Rodarte girl with a more goth aesthetic. Dark lips, black fringe, and cape-like looks added to the appeal of the theme while maintaining a wearable touch. The collection also saw the brand's signature looks, from wide collars, intricate beading, florals, and ruffles to complete the range.
The Row
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Oversized, minimalistic, effortless and chic are just a few words that can be used to describe The Row. For Fall 2020, twins Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen presented a collection that proved that they are fashion veterans. Sticking to what they know best, the looks saw oversized pants, coats, blazers, layered looks, turtlenecks, oversized clutches and more. The colour palette stayed true to their brand ethos, kept at tonal and monochrome, with added pops of cobalt and brown accent detailing.
Brandon Maxwell
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Taking to the American Museum of Natural History in New York, Brandon Maxwell presented his vision of Americana fashion. A bevy of tailored outwear, suits, biker jackets, leather pants and more appeared on the runway. In addition, he also presented a range of eveningwear that was completed with bandeau tops and exaggerated bows at the neck.
Tom Ford
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Now fashion week did not start in New York. Instead, Tom Ford unveiled his fall 2020 collection at Milk Studios in Los Angeles California. The collection that consisted of 52 men’s and women’s ready-to-wear looks saw denim ensembles, psychedelic prints, tailored suits, evening gowns. The final look was a completely laced wedding dress to close the show.
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