Celebrity Life
The Best Dishes We Ate in Hong Kong This Spring
Hong Kong is one of the world’s most exciting culinary capitals, where good food is more than abundant. In that light, we’ve put together a list of the best dishes we tried this spring.
From New World Cuisine, to refined Cantonese, Southern Italian and much more, here are our top picks.
Man Wah
The recent re-opening of the Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong’s acclaimed Man Wah, following renovations, heralds an exciting new era of Cantonese fine dining. Located on the hotel’s 25th floor and helmed by executive Chinese chef Wong Wing-Keung, the restaurant continues to honour local cuisine and traditions in a renewed environment. Among the refined classics that encapsulate Man Wah’s legacy are: deep-fried matsutake mushroom pudding (guo-ja), the Cantonese version of an ancient delicacy dating back to the Qing Dynasty; braised pork belly with taro, based on a family recipe that pays homage to the disappearing art of Hakka village cuisine; and deep-fried and braised prawn, rice cake and salted threadfin fish, which is now given a more cosmopolitan revamp with the use of Korean rice cakes instead of noodles. Chef Wong’s creations are served in the new dark-azure dining room, which features gold details, a Chinese embroidered art panel and contemporary millennial-chic elements. -- Marta Colombo, Features Editor
Man Wah, 25/F, Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong, 5 Connaught Rd Central; +852 2825 4003
Kinship
After appointing celebrated Venezuelan-born and New York-trained Nelson Gonzalez as new head chef, the charming neighbourhood restaurant Kinship has introduced an eclectic new menu — an exciting take on the ever-popular new world cuisine. Inspired by Mediterranean, South American and Asian influences, among others, some of the best dishes - and personal favourite - from the new menu include the fresh and tangy crispy soft-shell crab with cornmeal crust, chargrilled spring-onion salad and traditional Venezuelan guasacaca green sauce, home-made cavatelli with Hokkaido scallops, bacon, English peas, tarragon and lemon butter, and, for dessert, pavlova with poached strawberries, shortbread crumble, caramelised pistachio, basil, and Chantilly cream. Riding the tide of the growing success of rustic-elegant and trendy urban eateries, Kinship’s new menu offers an Insta-worthy culinary trip around the world’s food capitals. -- Marta Colombo, Features Editor
Kinship, 3/F LL Tower, 2 Shelley St, Central; +852 2520 0899
LPM Restaurant & Bar
International - super chic - establishment LPM, which focuses on the flavours of the French Riviera and its influences from the nearby region of Liguria in Northwestern Italy, never fails to impress with its simple and yet indulgent and sophisticated dishes. This season, new additions include fresh creations such as Fresh Beans and Artichoke Salad, and Fusilli Puttanesca with Tuna. -- Marta Colombo, Features Editor
LPM Restaurant & Bar, 23-29 Stanley Street Shop 1, 1/F, H, Queen's, Central; +852 2887 1113
Belon
Whatever half-whispered rumours there may have been about a crisis in Belon’s identity -- engendered by the departure of long-time chef Daniel Calvert in 2020 -- were swiftly quashed this month, following an illuminating excursion to Black Sheep Restaurants’ eminent neo-Parisian eatery. Clearly, Head Chef Matthew Kirkley is settling into his new digs (well-insulated from the surrounding cacophony of Elgin Street) with aplomb; and much like the restaurant’s sinuous brocaded spaces, has turned the page definitively on the ghosts of Belon past.
A tremendous polish in the presentation and assembly of each item on the menu is palpable: so much so, that I frequently found myself savouring certain, almost-parochial dishes as if it were my first time encountering them. A ‘niçoise’ of hamachi: raised to glorious new heights by forensic attention to detail and a lightness in technique, allowing every single component ingredient (i.e. dressing, vegetables, protein) to find its mark. Or, how about tartlet foie gras: a wallop of a morsel, rippling with richness and texture, that shows just how cool old-school preparations can still be -- when left to hands possessing sufficient skill and conviction. Frankly, I think we can safely assume Kirkley has a surplus of both. -- Randy Lai, Contributing Editor
Belon, 1/F, 1-5 Elgin Street, Central; +852 2152 2872
Salisterra
Salisterra, the new dining concept located on the 49th floor of The Upper House, celebrates the flavours and traditions of the Mediterranean and draws inspiration from the coastal cuisines of France and Italy. Conceptualised by London-based chef Jun Tanaka, the menu takes a seasonal and fresh approach with dishes that honour the best products from the region. Some of our favourite dishes include a revisited Langoustine Ravioli and Panzanella from the summer repertoire of the Italian peninsula, and a buttery Salt Crust Patagonian Toothfish. Salisterra’s large and diverse space, designed by famed architect André Fu, mixes bold and warm terracotta orange and dusty turquoise with The Upper House’s quintessential elegance. -- Marta Colombo, Features Editor
Salisterra, The Upper House, Pacific Place 88, Queensway, Admiralty; +852 3968 1106
Holt's Café
The majestic Holt’s Café at Rosewood Hong Kong has unveiled a new Sunday Brunch menu. The sumptuous selection features a variety of dishes inspired by world cuisine and Hong Kong classics. The feast starts with a seafood selection of oysters, king crab and king prawn, served with lemon mignonette and cocktail sauce, and continues with a free flow of Western and local small plates. Some of the best dishes we tried include Holt’s Café signature dishes, such as Premium Char Siu Rice with premium BBQ pork and Steak Frites Rib Eye with Bearnaise. For an unforgettable Sunday, the banquet ends with a series of masterful creations by the hotel’s executive pastry chef. -- Marta Colombo, Features Editor
Holt's Café, Rosewood Hong Kong Victoria Dockside, 18 Salisbury Rd, Tsim Sha Tsui; +852 3891 8732
Cassio
Cassio, Central’s long-lasting nightlife hub, has recently been redesigned and revamped by HERVET Manufacturier, the Paris-based luxury furniture design company co-founded by former-Daft Punk creative director Cédric Hervet and his cousin Nicolas. For evening dining, Catalan chef Salva Benedicto conceptualised a menu of classic tapas made with authentic ingredients, which cement the venue’s reputation for authentic Spanish cuisine. Cassio’s new layout and design combines chic atmosphere with neo-classic décor to create a lifestyle lounge that caters to an eclectic clientele of locals and — once they return to the city — visitors. -- Stephanie Ip, Managing Editor
Cassio, 2/F LKF Tower, 33 Whyndham Street, Central; +852 3792 0129
Roji
Roji, Central's latest contemporary izakaya, recently opened its doors in an unassuming Lan Kwai Fong alley that evokes its name, which comes from the Japanese term "rojiura" or "backstreet." The late-night casual eatery and bar brings to Hong Kong the trendy atmosphere of some of Ginza's celebrated establishments serving a Japanese-inspired menu of sharing plates. Some of the best dishes we ate include the fragrant and tender King Crab Legs peppered with a thick blend of parsley and shiso leaves, a side of lemon wedge and mayo; the Torotaku, a fun, bite-size take on negitoro with pickled yellow daikon and Roji’s crispy Chicken Katsu. From the bar, we absolutely loved the fresh Saketini with gin, bergamot, floral akvavit, dill and cucumber lime. To add to the charm, Roji's playlist will make your night one to remember. -- Marta Colombo, Features Editor
Roji, G/F, 20A D'Aguilar St, Lan Kwai Fong, Central
Ki No Bi x Censu pairing at Sake Central
Kyoto craft gin Ki No Bi has launched a special pop-up at Sake Central this month with experiences that will fool us into thinking we're actually in Kyoto. At the House of Ki No Bi, not only will you be able to sample the six elements that make up the artisanal gin through the online 6Elements masterclass with Bar Buonasera's Ayako Miyake; you could also book yourself in for an eight-course tasting menu, crafted by former Fukuro head chef Shun Sato, with drinks thoughtfully paired by Sake Central's co-founder Elliot Faber.
This is an exciting sneak peek into Sato's upcoming restaurant, Censu, which is slated to open in June. Every dish was stellar, but one in particular left an imprint in our minds — the hamachi, served in a whey tomato ponzu and paired with a delicious Tsukino Katsura sake that's made with the same Fushimi waters used at The Kyoto Distillery where Ki No Bi is made. -- Stephanie Ip, Managing Editor
The pairing is available only at Sake Central from now until May 31st, 2021.
Sake Central, S109-S113, 1/F Block A, PMQ, 35 Aberdeen Street, Central; +852 2656 6552
Sushi Yonjugo
Helmed by Chef Milton Lau, who trained in the 10 restaurants in Japan, Sushi Yonjuogo serves Edomae-style sushi with a contemporary twist. The 9-seater omakase restaurant, located in the heart of SoHo behind a traditional light oak timber door, showcases the chef's craftsmanship and personable approach through an impressive selection of memorable small plates. Sushi Yonjugo takes diners on an immersive and intimate culinary journey through Japan's prefectures and diverse terrains, with a focus on showcasing a wide range of fresh products and techniques. We loved the overall experience, which, albeit for a couple of hours, truly took us to Japan. Some of the best dishes we tried include the Dancing Shrimp Sushi, taken directly from the fish tank and turned into a juicy(moving)nigiri in front of our eyes, the combination of Hokkaido White Uni and Bafun Uni, which created an umami explosion in our mouths, and the Sliced Okinawa Akamachi Red Snapper. -- Marta Colombo, Features Editor
Sushi Yonjugo, Staunton Street, Soho, Central; +852 3689 1045
Mr and Mrs Fox
Mr and Mrs Fox is almost like a rediscovered gem in the Quarry Bay neighbourhood. Since it revamped its interiors, the restaurant is now looking brighter, cheerier, with a whole lot of new contemporary art on the walls, soothing greenery all around and a brand new menu to tempt the tastebuds. It's the perfect spot for a bit of brunch — available only on the weekends with appetizers and desserts for sharing and a choice of your own main, plus free-flow deals at happy prices. We loved the generous Egg Benedict and the juicy whole Spanish Chicken. Pro tip: call in advance to secure a spot next to the Instagram-worthy bookcase on the second-floor foyer. -- Stephanie Ip, Managing Editor
Mr and Mrs Fox, 23 Tong Chong Street, Quarry Bay; +852 2697 8500
The post The Best Dishes We Ate in Hong Kong This Spring appeared first on Prestige Online - Hong Kong.
Chef Leonard Cheung of Cultivate on “Fine Casual” Dining and His Culinary Vision
The Carlyle hotel-inspired bolthole -- slated to open on the uppermost floors of Rosewood Hong Kong later this year -- will offer a blueprint for the eponymous group's vision of "a new kind of international members' club". We venture north of the harbour to discover just what that entails...
Hitherto, the Hong Kong ecosystem of private members' clubs has been split broadly between two camps: at one end, you have venerable institutions catered to the needs of the city's professionals (the FCC) and those who surround them (the KCC); at the other, a burgeoning array of social haunts meant to profit from the growing number of Silicon Valley types -- hawkers of crypto, CBD cafes, and other speculative investment opportunities -- who reside here.
Call me Debbie Downer, but neither feels like an especially glam place to visit. After all, such clubs justify their patronage by way of mostly pragmatic considerations: a convenient location; access to business networking opportunities; affordable gym membership; and so forth. This, as Rosewood Hotels CEO Sonia Cheng well knows is where Carlyle & Co. can break the mould -- by conjuring a little glamour into Hong Kong's mostly comatose members' club scene.
Best thought of as a kind of pied-à-terre to the Rosewood Hong Kong (spanning the 54th-56th floor of the hotel) Carlyle & Co. is, in effect, Cheng's answer to the boutique members' clubs that have dominated pop culture these last 20 years. In Hong Kong -- where bureaucratic red tape is frequent; and decent-sized real estate scant -- her hotel group's latest venture feels especially impressive -- if for no other reason than the sheer audacity of it all.
In recent weeks, the first details of the club's leviathan 25,000 sq. ft. premises have begun to emerge, inspired in broad strokes by the "intriguing, inimitable and ultimately indefinable" style of The Carlyle in New York (incidentally also a brand owned by Rosewood Hotels). To orchestrate this vision of Hong Kong-via-Manhattan, Rosewood turned to British designer Ilse Crawford, whose approach has imbued the club's many rooms with a light, playful sensibility -- affording each a healthy dose of individual personality.
For fusty decadents like yours truly, the gentlemen's spaces -- including a barber, shoeshine, and capsule store by an award-winning haberdasher -- hold immense charm -- even though they espouse just one of many eclectic visual styles members will enjoy each time they navigate the club. The aforementioned differ significantly from spaces like the Cabaret Bar and Sitting Room, both of which employ the medium of painting (by artists Jean-Philippe Delhomme and Christina Zimpel respectively) to celebrate The Carlyle hotel's legendary Bemelmans murals.
Supper & Supping
In the spirit of its progenitor, the various dining venues at Carlyle & Co. seem to be accompanied by an august sense of occasion. The crux of the action happens at the brasserie, which (like any decent club restaurant in Hong Kong) serves a medley of Western, Chinese, and all-day delicacies. Here, the focus is on simply cooking the freshest produce the club can source -- various of the small plates are smoked, cured, or otherwise preserved in-house -- yet it's hardly the most theatrical outlet. That honour belongs to Café Carlyle, an intimate supper club intended as the local chapter of the eponymous tippling destination in New York. Members can expect this to be the repository of the club's live musical programming, which (consistent with the historic acts that have taken to the stage at the Carlyle hotel) will include an assortment of uniquely American artforms like jazz, funk, and blues.
Members craving a dose of sunshine can also take a selection of food and drink on the club's 55th-floor terrace, which (much like the Rosewood property at large) enjoys the sort of view that's conducive to sonnet writing or spontaneous tears of joy. Flanking one end of that terrace, you'll find the local chapter of Bemelmans Bar. Like its namesake, the menu here is split roughly equally between fine wines, punchbowls and classic cocktails; though, at the weekend, you can expect a certain frenetic atmosphere to take hold, as the space merges with the terrace for live DJ performances against the backdrop of Victoria Harbour.
Cosy quarters, brimming with personality
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The 'Tommy' suite, inspired by legendary Bemelmans barman Tommy Rowles. -
Draped in sumptuous tones of red and onyx, the 'Kitt' suite is a paean to singer-actress Eartha Kitt, a mainstay of the original Café Carlyle until her passing in 2008.
Though Carlyle & Co. members can easily book themselves into one of the 400-plus rooms at the surrounding Rosewood property, the entire 54th floor of the club is given over to eight themed suites -- all of which celebrate the history of The Carlyle hotel. More or less equal in size, each offers an inviting and distinctive interior personality. If you're retiring following an evening spent drinking (one too many) Martinis for instance, the 'Tommy' seems an apt choice -- named for and inspired by the legendary Bemelmans bartender Mr. Tommy Rowles. Other known personalities include Dorothy Draper, the original 'modern Baroque' decorator of The Carlyle's interiors; and Eartha Kitt, the renowned actress and Broadway musician. For dedicated students of café society, a stay in every single suite would seem like money well-spent.
A variety of membership packages are available at Carlyle & Co., with or without health club membership. To learn more about rates (or inquire about eligibility) visit Carlyle & Co. online.
The post Chef Leonard Cheung of Cultivate on “Fine Casual” Dining and His Culinary Vision appeared first on Prestige Online - Hong Kong.
Best Dishes We Ate in Hong Kong in February 2021
Hong Kong is one of the world’s most exciting culinary capitals, where good food is more than abundant. In that light, we’ve put together a few of our tastiest tidbits and best dishes we tried this month and that are worth tracking down to try.
DiVino
To celebrate the season of tartufo nero di Norcia, the delicious Central Italian black truffle often overshadowed by its Northern counterpart in Alba, DiVino has launched a degustation menu. The intensely pungent and fruity truffles are featured in dishes such as 18-month-old Carnaroli Risotto with burrata di Andria and the Blanc D’Aquitaine veal Tartare. Guests are also encouraged to perfect their connoisseur palates and can choose how best to pair the presented wines with the selected black- truffle dishes.
DiVino Wine Bar & Restaurant, 73 Wyndham St, Central; +852 2167 8883
TATE Dining Room
TATE Dining Room, which was recently awarded its second Michelin star, is offering a new single-ingredient dining experience. Following the successful series An Ode to Eggs, An Ode to Rice, An Ode to Tofu and An Ode to Tea, chef-patron Vicky Lau now shines the spotlight on one of Asia’s favourite condiments and preservatives: soy sauce. The limited six-course menu elevates the staple ingredient to new heights, with creations such as Sauce of Foie Gras & Soy, Broth of Beef & Soy (featuring coveted Mayura wagyu beef) and Caramelised Soy Sauce with Coffee.
TATE Dining Room, 210 Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan; +852 2555 2172
208 - Duecento Otto
208, the Italian neighbourhood restaurant that's been a Hong Kong favourite for ten years, has recently launched a revamped concept that celebrates the authenticity of the country's bold regional flavours. With new access to the best ingredients from all over the peninsula, the kitchen team, helmed by Chef Zeno Bevilacqua, serves traditional recipes to create comforting dishes with elevated presentations. Some of the best dishes - and personal favourites - include the Raw Italian Red Prawns from Sicily with Burrata from Andria, the homemade Spaghetti alla Chitarra with miniature beef meatballs in a slow-cooked tomato sauce, an iconic dish from Abruzzo, and the Baked Seabass, fresh from the Mediterannean and cooked to perfection in the oven.
208, 208 Hollywood Road, Shueng Wan; +852 2549 0208
The Aubrey
Eccentric Japanese izakaya The Aubrey has recently opened at the Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong. Located on the 25th floor, the space features three bar experiences, a drawing room and a curio lounge, and is inspired by Japanism, the 19th-century European movement influenced by Japanese art after the country’s opening to foreign trade in 1853. To complete the immersive experience, chef Yukihito Tomiyama has designed a traditional menu that celebrates fresh ingredients and authentic techniques, such as Edomae sushi-making. The selection includes elevated bentos served in handmade wooden boxes, a tempura menu and delights from the robata grill. In addition, The Aubrey is also an exciting destination for cocktail lovers, with an omakase experience in which bartenders take guests on a unique journey across Japanese spirits and flavours.
The Aubrey, Mandarin Oriental, 5 Connaught Rd Central, Central; +852 2522 0111
Maki Hiki Lounge by Honi Honi
The newly-launched Maka Hiki Lounge by Honi Honi House, Asia’s first tiki bar, at Upper House Hong Kong, offers tropical-inspired experience like no other. The concept, a sophisticated take on tiki culture, serves special cocktails and bar bites in a trendy and relaxing environment. Some of the highlights include the Jamaican Jerk Chicken Skewers, Lobster Roll, Poké Miso Cones and Cod Fish Acras.
Maki Hiki Lounge by Honi Honi, The Upper House, Pacific Place, 88 Queensway; +852 9836 7462
Petrus
Chef Uwe Opocensky's arrival at the Island Shangri-La, together with newly joined head chef Romain Dupeyre, has brought a whole new culinary direction for Petrus that is mighty refreshing and exciting. The fare is undisputedly contemporary, and each dish presents the distinctive style that Opocensky is known for: food that is progressive but is presented as they are, with classic flavours that anyone can understand and savour. The simplicity of the Red Prawn — a staple on the menu now — completely wowed us over. Perfectly grilled and served with an umami-rich Chinese shrimp paste, the Spanish red prawn is grilled just right, and served with perfectly charred bread to mop up all the juices.
Restaurant Petrus, 56/F, Island Shangri-La, Supreme Court Road, Central
L'Envol
Crowned with its second Michelin star for the first time since its opening two years ago, we couldn't be happier to be back at L'Envol at the St. Regis Hong Kong to sample what Chef Olivier Elzer has to offer. The Allure set lunch menu comes with choices between 3-, 4- and 5-course menus, with choices of hot and cold starters, mains and desserts. The Brittany blue lobster cooked "à la nage" with an uni emulsion and lemon zest, will forever be a crowd favourite, but we were particularly blown away by the roasted frog legs with a creamy tarragon Pastis custard and tomato butter sauce. The food and service, as always, is immaculate.
L'Envol, St. Regis Hong Kong, 1 Harbour Drive, Wanchai
Aria
Aria offers a unique modern twist to family-style Italian cuisine, but with the ingredients used by executive chef Andrea Zamboni, it's very much elevated traditional cuisine with a touch of extravagance. We loved the Tribute to Chiccho Cerea Scrambled Eggs, Poached Quail Egg, Potato Mousseline, Baeri Caviar and Ikura. It was as much a performance as it was a delectable dish, as Chef Zambini shaves Alba truffle generously atop the soft swirl of eggs and creamy potato. Served like a parfait, this is a treat that's absolutely worth digging into.
Aria, 24/F, California Tower, 30-36 D'Aguilar St, Central; +852 2804 1116
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A Foodie’s Dream: Inside The Hari’s Lucciola and Zoku Restaurants
The Hari Hong Kong hotel is home to the dining concepts Lucciola and Zoku, which embody their respective cuisines with finesse and interesting flavours. We recently talked to the chefs behind the two restaurants.
A defining aspect of Hong Kong is the passion of its residents for food. There aren’t many other places in the world where urbanities enjoy eating out as much as they do here, to the point where, when a new restaurant opens its door, a sort of collective joy pervades the community. For chef Francesco Gava of Lucciola, the newly opened Italian restaurant at The Hari Hong Kong hotel in Wanchai, this passion and the locals’ knowledge of good food are at the core of its menu and vision.
“In Hong Kong, people travel a lot, and there’s so much great food available from all over the world that their palates are very refined,” Gava tells me in his unmistakably Piedmontese accent, while we converse in Italian. “We shouldn’t change our dishes to make them more similar to local flavours. If a Hong Konger has been to Italy and liked those authentic dishes, I want to be able to recreate exactly that; not adjust them. I think that would be a big mistake.”
This principle particularly applies to Lucciola, which is, first and foremost, a classic Italian restaurant that serves seasonal dishes from all over the peninsula. In many ways, the restaurant’s menu and elegant decor remind me of some Milanese establishments that define that city’s dining culture and soul: honest and delicious food served in an effortlessly chic and yet familiar environment.
“We don’t do traditional food with a modern twist. No, we cook traditional classic dishes sometimes using new techniques,” Gava continues. “For example, the veal of our Vitello Tonnato is cooked sous vide and not in milk, an evolution of the way it’s usually cooked to elevate the main ingredient, but the sauce is the same and so are the flavours.”
The menu features comfort dishes, such as Cotoletta alla Milanese, the breaded and pan-fried veal cutlet nicknamed orecchia di elefante (elephant’s ear) in Lombardy because of its hefty size; Torta Caprese Bianca, originally from the Island of Capri and made with white chocolate, lemon and limoncello; and Spaghettini alle Vongole Veraci e Bottarga, a quintessential pasta dish found in pretty much every coastal restaurant in Italy.
Through these timeless recipes, Gava and his team celebrate the Italian terrain with fresh and diverse ingredients and earthy flavours. While most of the items on Lucciola’s menu would definitely be familiar to anyone who regularly eats Italian food, there’s a section of unexpected offerings.
“I honestly don’t believe in signature dishes, but the My Favourites section on the à la carte menu truly reflects what I love eating and my heritage,” Gava explains. “I grew up eating the Spaghetti Acciughe e Tomino Fresco, with anchovies and fresh local cheese – it’s a family favourite that most people outside Piedmont have never tried, much like the Acquerello Risotto Porri e Luganega, with sausage and rice from Vercelli, a city in my native region that’s famous for rice.”
Gava is right. I am among the Italians who’d never tried the creamy pasta dish before, which instantly became a favourite after a few bites. A simple and yet elegant spaghetti recipe like this proves that traditional doesn’t equal clichéd or predictable. Perhaps this is particularly true for a country like Italy, where regionalism and a long gastronomic history make its cuisine impressively diverse and interesting for locals and foreigners alike.
“My first memory in the kitchen is about being turbulent. I was a very agitated young man at 17, and I was not a good student … I learned everything on the job,” Gava tells me as we discuss the professional journey that brought him to Lucciola. “There’s a sort of structure in professional kitchens, which I needed, but also a lot of craziness. From a young age, you have the opportunity to create something from scratch and put yourself in it.”
From local trattorias to luxury hotels in Saint Moritz and around Switzerland, and then on to cosmopolitan kitchens in Dubai, his passion to create something delicious that stays true to its origins has always been a priority and mission. “Being a chef is a very hard and physical job, where you’re constantly judged,” Gava continues. “I loved the energy in the kitchen from the very beginning and it’s where I feel best.”
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Chef Francesco Gava -
The effortlessly chic interior of Lucciola
One floor above Lucciola, on the second level of The Hari, Phillip Pak, chef de cuisine at Zoku Restaurant and Terrace, had a similar start to his career. “It began when I was 17 through a friend of my mum in the US who was a sushi chef,” he tells me. “I used to work part-time, washing dishes, like they do in Japan and Europe – I learned everything from this chef and didn’t go to culinary school. Honestly, no one knows what they want to do as a teenager, but this job truly is my passion and because these days many young people aren’t trained like that any more, I feel very fortunate.”
From watching chefs stretch homemade noodles at the back of the Korean restaurants his parents opened when they moved to Colorado, to learning the basics of the complex art of sushi-making as a humble dishwasher, Pak eventually landed in some of the most prestigious kitchens in America.
“Years ago, I moved to California and worked for Gordon Ramsey. Then I went to Vail, in Colorado, where I worked in the best sushi restaurants in the city, Matsuhisa by Nobu Matsuhisa,” Pak tells me as he enthusiastically talks about his mentor and culinary hero. “In the end, I was chef the cuisine at Matsuhisa in Aspen for three years.”
Pak talks very fondly of his time working with the Japanese celebrity chef and restaurateur, whom he describes as “genuine” and “someone that always encourages you to cook with your heart”.
The expertise and nuanced culinary approach learned under the leadership of Nobu, who effectively popularised modern and innovative takes on Japanese cuisine, have been instrumental to Pak, who designed Zoku’s concept and created an ingredient-focused menu.
“There are so many Japanese restaurants in Hong Kong, so we don’t aspire to provide an authentic experience but something refreshing that keeps changing,” Pak explains. “Each dish is based on bold flavours and their development through different techniques.”
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Chef Philip Pak -
Zoku's Instagram-perfect dining room
The sharing-style seasonal menu is truly reflective of Zoku’s Instagram-perfect dccor of pastel shades and velvet touches, retro-chic, tasselled lampshades, and its asymmetric origami ceiling. Dishes such as the Chilean Seabass with yuzu herb butter, sautéed brussels sprouts and oyster cream, and the Yellowtail Sashimi with yuzu, soy and sashimi, which are both delicate and bold at the same time, are representative of the restaurant’s heterogeneous interpretation of what contemporary Japanese food is.
For Zoku’s trendy terrace, set to open soon, Pak, his team and Sabrina Cantini Budden, beverage manager at The Hari Hong Kong, have come up with a selection of decadent hand rolls, like the mouth-watering Toro, uni and caviar temaki, and creative cocktails like the impeccably presented Suzie Wong with Japanese whisky, rose syrup, cucumber and yuzu soda.
“In Japanese, Zoku means clan, and, in many ways, we’re trying to build a family both with our clients and in terms of food and atmosphere” Pak explains. “I think that Hong Kong is a very tough crowd, which is great, but it makes you want to be better. It’s also very close to Japan. For me, the most important thing is to bring memorable flavours together.”
Albeit in different ways, Lucciola and Zoku both deliver the type of convivial and yet elegant experience that you’d want to come back for. This, combined with memorable flavours and an enviable setting, makes The Hari the newest dining mecca in town.
(Here shot: Lucciola's Lucciola’s Amberjack Carpaccio with Braised Tropea Red Onions)
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Love on a Plate: Best Valentine’s Day Menus in Hong Kong
Whether you are celebrating with your better half, with friends or want to treat yourself to a great meal, there are plenty of Valentine’s Day menus in Hong Kong to honour the season of love.
From lunches, to afternoon teas and take away Michelin-star dinners, here are our top picks for 2021.
The Ritz Carlton
This February, The Ritz Carlton Hong Kong and Chinese fine jewellery brand Qeelin are joining forces to present an exclusive afternoon tea for Valentine’s Day and Lunar New Year. Housed in an gourd-shaped tea set that pays homage to the jeweler’s Wulu Collection or in a longevity lock-shaped stand inspired by the brand’s signature Yu Yi Collection, the set features gourmet items like the Marinated Abalone and Mushroom Tartlet and the Lychee and Red Date Cake.
St Regis
L'Énvol, the St Regis' French restaurant which was recently awarded two Michelin stars, will be offering two exclusive Valentine’s Day menus featuring delicacies like the Poached Brittany Langoustine with Jerusalem Artichoke Broth and Oscietra Caviar Terrine and Blinis Toast. To celebrate the season of love, the St Regis Bar will also offer a limited edition Valentine’s special cocktail: La Vie En Rose.
The Diplomat x Yardbird
This February, The Diplomat is joining forces with Yardbird to present The Broken Hearts Club, a Kushiage free-flow menu by Chef Matt Abergel, along with Sunday’s Whisky and flagrant Hot Sauce. The popular modern Japanese izakaya recently awarded with one Michelin star, will be taking over The Diplomat for one day only on February 14.
Kerry Hotel
Hong Kong’s popular alfresco cocktail lounge Red Sugar at the Kerry Hotel has launched a cocktail pairing menu to celebrate the most romantic day of the year. The decadent selection features six courses, including the Pearl of Turnip with Lobster Mousse and Carabineros Sauce, along with specially crafted his-and-her cocktails, like the Sweetheart Margarita and Rose Spritz.
Date by TATE
Date by TATE, Chef Vicky Lau's lifestyle concept, has prepared a takeaway and delivery experience fully tailored to the unique needs of one person. The 8-Course Gastronomy Box is a sophisticated - and impeccably presented - option to treat yourself at home. For lovers, Date by TATE has also fashioned a Michelin-worthy takeaway meal for two, which starts with TATE Dining Room’s famous bread basket and followed by refined starters of Caviar & Obsiblue Prawn and Honey Passion Fruit Entremet.
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Mamma Always Said’s Australian Menu is The Comfort Treat You Need Right Now
Mamma Always Said, Meraki Hospitality's latest eatery on Peel Street just metres away from their long-lasting establishment Uma Nota, serves Western comfort food inspired by family recipes and conviviality. Their new Australian menu is a celebration of fresh produces and the diverse flavours that make the country's cuisine increasingly popular in restaurants and bars of cosmopolitan cities around the world.
Like the name suggests, the SoHo eatery focuses on indulgent sharing-style plates served in a trendy and relaxed environment that blends restaurant and bar style. Mamma Always Said also operates on an all-day eating concept, which allows it to easily be flexible and accommodate guests during these challenging times.
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Grilled Barramundi With Herby Crumb and Lemon Butter -
Roasted King Prawns With Green Chimichurri and Lime
The seasonal Australian menu focuses on comforting on recipes with a refined touch and bold seasoning. Our favourite appetiser was definitely the golden and crispy Salt ’n’ Pepper Squid with garlic mayo and lemon, a classic on the tables of the Mediterranean shores and Australia's coastal areas alike. It was simple and yet very well executed, which is exactly what you should look for in a popular dish like this.
While the selection of main courses, or rather, bigger plates, ranges from meat to seafood and vegetarian options, we were particularly impressed by the fish-based dishes. In the Roasted King Prawns with green Chimichurri and lime we could taste all the freshness of the products as well as the richness of the spicy sauce. The star of the meal, however, was definitely the Grilled Barramundi with herby crumb and lemon butter, which was perfectly moist, lemony, and balanced and alone worth a second visit to Mamma Always Said.
We ended our meal on a sweet note with Australia's most popular dessert and one of the country's symbols, the very indulgent Mamma’s Pavlova with red berry ice cream, which was beautifully presented comfort food at its best.
Mamma's Australian dishes are also available for delivery on the Meraki At Home Menu , available on Hong Kong Island. Order via WhatsApp +852 6379 9748
Mamma Always Said, 42-44, Peel Street, Central; +852 2386 2216
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The 5 Best Hong Kong Brunches to Satisfy Your Cravings
Fifty metres underground — this is the depth that local winemakers chose when they decided to store 10,000 wine bottles in the Aven d'Orgnac caves, an underground tourist attraction located at the southern end of the limestone plateau of the Gorges de l'Ardèche.
The experiment began in March 2018, when a new storage facility was specially created in a disused access tunnel to allow wine to mature in what amounts to a highly stable and peaceful environment.
A living product that ages best in undisturbed darkness, the wine will have benefited from ideal conditions: A constant temperature of around 12°C and an all-year-long rate of humidity of over 95%.
On December 12, 1,000 bottles of Côtes du Vivarais "Grand Aven 2017" from this treasure trove will be passed from hand to hand by a chain of human volunteers who will bring them back to the surface after two years underground. Thereafter, they will go under the hammer with a range of other local vintages in an auction with modest reserve prices.
Lots on offer will include 150 magnums of Terra Helvorum 2017 starting at 30 euros, 350 bottles of 2015 Terra Helvorum for as little as 15 euros and 350 bottles of Grand Aven 2016 from just 10 euros.
On land and sea
These days, experiments to store wine deep underground are very much in vogue in France. On June 3 of this year, 500 bottles were placed in racks at a depth of 103 metres in caves in Padirac under the watchful eye of Serge Dubs, the Best Sommelier of the World in 1989.
The first of these to return to the surface will be brought up for an initial tasting in the spring of 2021. And let's not forget that this experiment is focused on a very particular wine: A Clos Triguedina Cahors, christened Cuvée Probus, which has been produced to honour the 130-year anniversary of the Padirac Chasm.
Surprisingly enough, this new approach to maturing wine was initially inspired by a find at sea. In 2010, divers in the Baltic discovered a wreck containing what turned out to be a cargo of champagne, which was probably on its way to 1840s Russia.
The wave of experimentation that is now ongoing began when the bubbly, which was made by such houses as Veuve Clicquot, Heidsieck and the now defunct Juglar, was discovered to still be delicious after some 170 years under water.
In Saint-Jean-de-Luz in the French Basque country, winemaker Emmanuel Poirmeur has registered a patent for a process that involves vinifying wine in special vats at a depth of 15 metres under water. For its part, Leclerc-Briant set a record when it vinified one of its champagnes at a depth of 60 meters under the Atlantic in 2012, not surprisingly the vintage was christened "Abyss."
The post The 5 Best Hong Kong Brunches to Satisfy Your Cravings appeared first on Prestige Online - Hong Kong.
Chef Tiff Lo on Her French Bistro Jean May and Tales of Blood, Sweat and Tears
Fifty metres underground — this is the depth that local winemakers chose when they decided to store 10,000 wine bottles in the Aven d'Orgnac caves, an underground tourist attraction located at the southern end of the limestone plateau of the Gorges de l'Ardèche.
The experiment began in March 2018, when a new storage facility was specially created in a disused access tunnel to allow wine to mature in what amounts to a highly stable and peaceful environment.
A living product that ages best in undisturbed darkness, the wine will have benefited from ideal conditions: A constant temperature of around 12°C and an all-year-long rate of humidity of over 95%.
On December 12, 1,000 bottles of Côtes du Vivarais "Grand Aven 2017" from this treasure trove will be passed from hand to hand by a chain of human volunteers who will bring them back to the surface after two years underground. Thereafter, they will go under the hammer with a range of other local vintages in an auction with modest reserve prices.
Lots on offer will include 150 magnums of Terra Helvorum 2017 starting at 30 euros, 350 bottles of 2015 Terra Helvorum for as little as 15 euros and 350 bottles of Grand Aven 2016 from just 10 euros.
On land and sea
These days, experiments to store wine deep underground are very much in vogue in France. On June 3 of this year, 500 bottles were placed in racks at a depth of 103 metres in caves in Padirac under the watchful eye of Serge Dubs, the Best Sommelier of the World in 1989.
The first of these to return to the surface will be brought up for an initial tasting in the spring of 2021. And let's not forget that this experiment is focused on a very particular wine: A Clos Triguedina Cahors, christened Cuvée Probus, which has been produced to honour the 130-year anniversary of the Padirac Chasm.
Surprisingly enough, this new approach to maturing wine was initially inspired by a find at sea. In 2010, divers in the Baltic discovered a wreck containing what turned out to be a cargo of champagne, which was probably on its way to 1840s Russia.
The wave of experimentation that is now ongoing began when the bubbly, which was made by such houses as Veuve Clicquot, Heidsieck and the now defunct Juglar, was discovered to still be delicious after some 170 years under water.
In Saint-Jean-de-Luz in the French Basque country, winemaker Emmanuel Poirmeur has registered a patent for a process that involves vinifying wine in special vats at a depth of 15 metres under water. For its part, Leclerc-Briant set a record when it vinified one of its champagnes at a depth of 60 meters under the Atlantic in 2012, not surprisingly the vintage was christened "Abyss."
The post Chef Tiff Lo on Her French Bistro Jean May and Tales of Blood, Sweat and Tears appeared first on Prestige Online - Hong Kong.
New Food Delivery and Takeaway Options in Hong Kong to Try Today
As the doors of restaurants across the city are forced to close from 6pm until 5am, it's time to rethink your dinner plans.
Many of Hong Kong's restaurants are now offering delivery or takeaway, some for the very first time ever, so that we can still enjoy the best of what Hong Kong has to offer at home. So if you've had enough of your own cooking and in need restaurant quality food, these Hong Kong eateries are here to help. From Michelin-starred restaurants to newly opened venues and more, here's our pick of the newest delivery and takeaway options to try tonight.
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22 Ships Makes a Comeback with New Chef, Fresh Look and Flavourful Tapas
The Ships' return.
As one of Hong Kong's favourite tapas restaurants, 22 Ships is back in the neighbourhood with a fresh look and new chef in tow, Madrid-native Antonio Oviedo, who presents a fresher and more honest take on Spanish flavours. The bustling tapas bar sits in the same space of Wan Chai's Ship Street and remains casual and convivial as it always was. What has changed is the brand new menu, and the way in which chef has brought the flavours and spirit of Spain to our city, saving you a trip to Madrid altogether.
The restaurant's revamp gives the old haunt a whole new vibe, while maintaining that easy-going 22 Ships charm we've loved all these years. The best seat in the house is still the open kitchen counter, which is in clear view of the team in action. Now, it's topped with a pale pink marble top, which feels fresher and brighter while the rest of the interior shows off painted brick walls with dark bottle green tiles, warmed by light peachy coral. A large greenboard at the back showcases the menu, with specials handwritten on the daily, and a semi al fresco element with wooden frame panels opens up the space further, echoing the best of Spain's tapas bars.
Chef Antonio Oviedo has worked with some of Spain’s top chefs including Catalan chef Santi Santamaria and the collective genius of the Roca Brothers. At 22 Ships, he has created a menu filled with timeless, yet modern, multi-regional tapas alongside premium chacinas (cold cuts) and quesos (cheeses). All ingredients are directly sourced from small-scale producers in Spain where possible and chosen for their quality. The menu is paired with a robust drink menu that features Spanish wines, sangrias and street-social style drinks, such as sherry or (my own personal favourite) vermouth mingled with homemade sodas, flavours and seasonings. During the buzz of the restaurant's comeback, we took a moment to chat with Oviedo to find out how he's steering the ship and what we can expect.
Why did you decide to come to Hong Kong after spending most of your time as a chef in Madrid and Singapore?
To work in Asia is a dream for any chef; when I had the opportunity to move to Singapore I didn’t have any doubt about it. After five years in Singapore, I developed a few different Spanish concepts and gained a lot of knowledge in Asian cuisine during my time at [Singapore’s fine dining establishment] Iggy’s, so I was more than ready to explore a new city in Asia. I decided to come to Hong Kong as I was attracted by the city's modern, yet authentic and classic style. This is one of the cities with the highest density of restaurants, as well as an amazing dining scene surrounded by wild nature. The place I’ve always wanted to be .
What are you bringing to Hong Kong ?
I’m bringing the bar vibes that you can find in places such as Chamberi, La Latina, and Huertas, among other neighbourhoods in Madrid where a bar opens in a street and makes it famous -- attracting other tapas bars and bodegas, which is exactly what 22 Ships did for Wan Chai's restaurant scene.
Have you had to adapt your menu for Hong Kong?
Not really. I try to cook real Spanish cuisine at 22 Ships. We use local products and Hong Kong favourites such as Hokkaido sea urchin. But I think people appreciate authenticity, and when customers say that your food just brought them back to Spain, it is the best compliment you can ever receive.
What do you love about tapas?
What I like about tapas is the variety and the sharing concept behind it. My background is more fine dining than traditional, but nowadays, the concept of fine dining is a bit distorted. At 22 Ships, people order their own tasting menus and choose different drink pairing for each tapa.
Any favourite dishes to highlight?
I encourage people to come and try our dishes to help them to decide which ones can be our signatures as we are having a lot of good feedback for all of them. I guess the Burnt basque cheesecake is still the winner, for now. However, if I have to highlight something it will be our chalkboard, since we don’t have a printed menu, which always has a bunch of specials on it and is changing everyday.
On the subject of highlights, I took it upon myself to see what's on the menu and found a few favourites of my own.
To start, I recommend to snack on pintxos such as the Gilda skewer with deeply flavoured smoked sardines and piquant piparras, or Vermut gordal olives which pair the large green globes with a vermouth gel, brightened with fresh lemon zest. Then indulge in the Rusa and sea urchin on toast which may seem like an unlikely match, but work seamlessly on the palate, bringing sweetness and umami atop a crispy toast. Another worthy try is the Sardines in Ajoblanco, a chilled almond and garlic soup, topped with grapes which is perfect for summer.
For larger platos, which are great to share, the Blue lobster salmorreta paella is my first pick. Packed full of flavour with perfectly cooked bomba rice and a whole lobster on top, it's certainly a crowd-pleaser. Meanwhile, traditionalists will likely order and almost definitely enjoy the Roasted suckling pig, where a classic recipe sees the hog slow-cooked for 24 hours before roasting, ensuring tender meat that falls off the bone.
Finally, desserts such as Apricot and Palo Cortado sherry, with clarified coffee ice cream will pique interests, while a luscious little Idiazabal Basque cheesecake ends on a smooth and velvety note.
The new 22 Ships will continue to offer a no reservation and no service charge policy to encourage spontaneity. Overall, the Ships' return is a very welcome one and I can't wait to visit again soon, even if I have to wait.
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Chef Vicky Lau of Tate Dining Room Unveils Latest Menu Focused on the Versatile Tofu
Coravin, the wine lover's dream device that lets you pour wine without uncorking, is back with brand new models.
As fans of the smart wine preservation system, we have observed Coravin for some time and seen the brand expand with new technology every year. Now, they have extended their product lineup with the launch of new systems -- Models Three and Six. What's more, all new and existing models have been equipped with SmartClamps™, which, prior to the launch, was only available on Model Eleven. The new easy-on and easy-off clamps are designed to go over the neck of the bottle and push down firmly on the handle in one fluid motion, making the system even easier to use.
Coravin's wine access technology is all down to the hollow needle that is inserted through the cork, before the system pressurises the bottle with Argon (an inert, colourless and odourless) gas, to pour the wine out. Once poured, and the Coravin is taken off the bottle, the cork reseals naturally -- allowing wine to stay fresh for months on end, and years if needed.
The new systems also comes with a Coravin Screw Cap which allows users to enjoy new world wine (with screw caps) the same way as old world wine (cork) bottles, preserving them for up to three months.
So, with four Coravin Models in total, Model Three, Five, Six and Eleven, which model is the right one for you? Well, let's find out shall we.
Coravin Model Three
Details: Model Three is an upgraded version of Coravin's Model One and features a clean and simple, user-friendly and functional design in matte texture.
Perfect for: the everyday wine drinker.
Price: HK$2,080
Coravin Model Five
Details: Model Five is not available for retail as it has been made specifically for trade. The design is simply elegant but durable.
Perfect for: those in the industry who favour classic design with metallic accents.
Price: email for trade price
Coravin Model Six
Details: Model Six is the upgraded version of the popular Model Two Elite edition, it also features vibrant colours with chrome accents.
Perfect for: luxury style and fashion lovers.
Price: HK$3,580
Coravin Model Eleven
Details: Model Eleven is the smartest device of the Coravin family. It is the first bluetooth connected and fully automatic system. It comes with LED display, glass pour optimisation, and connection to the Coravin Moments app, which tracks system statistics and advises on wine pairings with food, music and more.
Perfect for: technology and gadget enthusiasts who love a varied wine experience.
Price: HK$6,880
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7 New Hong Kong Restaurants to Try Today
Hong Kong's ever-changing dining scene is constantly evolving.
So much so, that it can get a little difficult to keep track of it all, let alone remember to book and try the new restaurants that have caught your eye. From brand new concepts to fresh venues and additional locations, here is our guide to seven of Hong Kong's most promising new restaurants to try right now.
Well, what are you waiting for...
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