Celebrity Life

On February 11^th, New York fashion week returned and blessed us all with the latest collections of the city’s veterans, some fresh faces and enticing guest appearances. 

Here is our picks of the most memorable shows from the day 6 of New York Fashion Week:

Collina Strada

Collina Strada was among the latest vanguard of designers who explore the early aughts aesthetic – her take, however, tunes colours (and camp) to the max. Belted mini-skirts and baggy pants under asymmetric dresses echo the stylistic influences of Ashley Tisdale’s best looks back from her Suite Life era. Crushed velvet tracksuits – an unequivocal staple of the ‘00s zeitgeist – adopted 19th-century-inspired padded silhouettes, some turned into gowns even. The prints on hoodies, pants and T-shirts masterfully channelled the works of candy pop sirens of the decade’s past – think Avril Lavigne, The Veronicas and Katy Perry in Teenage Dream. 

Prabal Gurung

Prabal Gurung’s autumn 2022 collection is somewhat a tale of two cities – Gurung’s base New York and his native Kathmandu. The Nepalese-born designer adapted the traditional choli blouse into flowy silk dresses in hypnotising tones; they also utilised traditional sari draping techniques. Despite the heavy-handed glamour of the collection, it still read as extremely wearable: the stretchy knit dresses, for example, can be endlessly styled with coats in fur, leather and wool and boots both tall and ankle-length, heeled or not. 

Who Decides War

Who Decides War’s War Everard Best and Téla D’Amore are obsessed with details – the kind of maniacal almost scrupulosity is uncommon for streetwear brands. The use of appliqué and embroidery on textiles like denim signals the couture-level of expertise and, in some cases, even presents as subtle. WDW’s fabric manipulations don’t steal the spotlight from the silhouettes, but rather amplify it, as seen, for instance, from the feather-embellished boxy suit with distressed detailing. 

Bach Mai

Texas-born Bach Mai is an American designer who aspires to be the next John Galliano, who, in turn, was once known as the new Charles James. With his autumn 2022 collection, Mai created a storyline through colour and construction, in which the soft, angelic palette of greens and pinks developed into crimsons and burgundies. Mai extracted the essence of the silk slip dress canon and reinvented it endlessly into ethereal looks by combining them with jackets (some of which were sleeveless) and elbow-length gloves.

The post Runway Report: New York Fashion Week Day 6 Recap appeared first on Prestige Online - Hong Kong.

On February 11^th, New York fashion week returned and blessed us all with the latest collections of the city’s veterans, some fresh faces and enticing guest appearances. 

Here is our picks of the most memorable shows from the day 5 of New York Fashion Week:

Peter Do

Peter Do Autumn 2022 was the most personal collection for the designer to date. Tailoring was at the core of the line-up, with floor-length coats, jackets and skirts as pleasant dramatic accents. As always, Do approaches his work from an innovative standpoint: rolled-up pants matched with mega-exaggerated boxy blazers and long shirts that reveal stripes of skin read as a potion of meticulously measured 80s and early aughts references. The floor-length sleeveless jackets with cape lapels mix Do’s trademark sensuality with bits and pieces of the newfound slouchy garçonness 

Michael Kors

Michael Kors doubles down on his signature glamourous Upper East Side silhouettes. Once again, it hits the mark perfectly. Croc miniskirts appeared with turtlenecks and alongside a wide variety of exuberant fur coats, contributing to the sensual top-heavy silhouettes. Kors shows his mastery in dressing a not just a working woman, whose archetypes have been clearly defined in the 2000s and reinvented a million times ever since, but a woman with complete agency. Largely monochromatic looks that ranged from slouchy suits to sparkling liquid gowns construed the perfect wardrobe for Manhattan glitterati.

Jonathan Simkhai

His Autumn 2022 collection Jonathan Simkhai launched in the Metaverse before debuting it in the physical realm. The brand’s focus this season is tailoring, with exception of a couple of fabulous jewel dresses. Crochet-framed cutouts on some pieces are quintessential Simkhai, which can’t be said about that one cobalt-blue suit with a tie belt. Vertical stripes in neutral emphasise even more the effortless and light-hearted vibe the designer attempts to convey. 

Bibhu Mohapatra

Bibhu Mohapatra’s background in theatre costumes is evident in his Autumn 2022 collection, as conveyed by the intricately embellished gowns in silk, taffeta and velvet. Despite the show’s overall high-octane glamour, it seemed incredibly wearable. The patent-leather bodycon numbers strutted alongside fur coats and pleated dresses (some of them made from lamé) – almost entirely embracing playful asymmetries that made the collection feel fresher and more light-hearted.

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On February 11^th, New York fashion week returned and blessed us all with the latest collections of the city’s veterans, some fresh faces and enticing guest appearances. 

Here is our picks of the most memorable shows from the day 4 of New York Fashion Week:

Carolina Herrera

Carolina Herrera’s Wes Gordon showed his autumn 2022 collection on Valentine’s Day – aptly so, considering how romantic the whole show was. Gordon embraced florals, 1960s-inspired silhouettes and dramatic shapes – a tribute, perhaps, to the designer’s time at Oscar de la Renta. Some looks read as an ode to Mrs Herrera herself, of course, like the fitted peplum shirt with a dramatic floor-length fuchsia skirt or the bishop-sleeve coat, for example. The piece that stood out was the baby-pink mini dress with floating bra cups and a baroque tulle train. 

Laquan Smith

It’s official: low waists are back. In his Autumn 2022 show, Laquan Smith introduced a rulebook on how to interpret the cult early-aughts trend the modern way (not without the help of a certain supporting actress who’s been spending her time with a certain controversial rapper). Smith decorated his fables bodysuits with hip bone cutouts and styled them with the lowest-sitting pants this season. Vinyl made an appearance, of course, however, unlike in the last couple of collections, it served as a tasteful accent, accentuating the textural complexity of other materials like lycra, vinyl and sequins. 

Dion Lee

Dion Lee devised an army of sci-fi knights to present his Autumn 2022 collection, and what a joy it was to take in! In reinventing his signature precisely-constructed corsets, Lee took a step away from lacing and opted for leather and shearling(!) panels instead. Lace gimp suits in red and blue were a bold choice that, among a largely neutral-toned lineup, stood out like a star antagonist of an anime arc. A couple of menswear looks presented embraced androgynous sensuality with asymmetric skirts and bodysuits with triangular masks embedded in them.

Tory Burch

The once-boho-chic-haven Tory Burch, embodied the new-gen sexiness this season, and fans couldn’t get enough of it. Calculated risks were taken by Honor Brodie that paid off: the high-waisted technical harem pants that flowed into tight bustiers read as an Upper-East-Sidian take on the phenomena of covid-induced sweatpants culture. Asymmetric abstract prints on skin-tight dresses gracefully forayed into the risk focus of the collection that, in its very heart, was a love letter to the city of New York and its women.

The post Runway Report: New York Fashion Week Day 4 Recap appeared first on Prestige Online - Hong Kong.

On February 11^th, New York fashion week returned and blessed us all with the latest collections of the city’s veterans, some fresh faces and enticing guest appearances. 

Here is our picks of the most memorable shows from the day 3 of New York Fashion Week:

AREA

In the fashion of a true rebelle, Area showed its Spring 2022 Couture collection at New York Fashion Week, just days after the Couture week finished in Paris. Area’s army of fierce showgirls appeared in feather-trimmed sweatpants, golden bikinis and crystal-bestrewed gowns. Piotr Panszcyk’s ambition to devise a fashion moment both glamorous and humorous was evident. The ostrich-clad pants à la Big Bird appeared alongside butterfly masks and that resplendent silver gown covered in stones, a variation of which was worn by Simone Biles at the 2021 Met Gala. 

Altuzarra

Altuzarra leaned into earthiness, craftiness and loftiness in their autumn 2022 collection, as represented by the top-heavy layered styling and masterful fusion of textures. The lineup summoned naturalistic inspirations and interpreted them in an elegant Manhattan-esque context. Boho skirts under high-collar boiled-wool jackets, along with sleeveless leather dresses read as references to pre-Gabriela Hearst Chloé, while the paillette-embellished final looks offered a pleasant break from Altuzarra’s signature militaristic tailoring. 

Khaite

Khaite was launched in 2016 upon three simple pillars: cashmere sweaters, tailoring and denim. Catherine Holstein’s utilitarian vision for the brand was apparent in the autumn 2022 collection – various zip jackets strutted alongside leather dresses and oversized blazers. Constructional ingenuity was a part of the show as much as any of the models, as was attested by the elongated tops with shoulder pads and flattering folded details that stemmed from them, or by a floor-length cinched boiler coat with a shimmery lozenge motif. 

Ulla Johnson

Her autumn 2022 collection Ulla Johnson decided to show at the New York Public Library. The premise of every Johnson show is usually simple: printed dresses with ruffles, but – oh my – how she manages to twist it in a fresh way every single time. There were voluminous lamé blouses, styled with jeans and corduroy pants, masterfully crocheted dresses and, all around, brilliant knitwork. Overall, the collection was a testament to youthful high-brow Americana and a roaring success.

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On February 11^th, New York fashion week returned and blessed us all with the latest collections of the city’s veterans, some fresh faces and enticing guest appearances. 

Here is our picks of the most memorable shows from the day 2 of New York Fashion Week:

Jason Wu

Jason Wu reimagines fancy dress in the times of pandemic. Wu’s autumn 2022 collection draws inspiration from fashion illustrations of the 1950s; there is a sense of intimacy and individuality to every look. Tie-dyed frocks in satin play to the literality of the fall landscapes with their orange and purple palette. Slim cigarette pants appeared on the runway with satin bustiers and fluffy overskirts – a take that has reached the apex of its ubiquity during the latest couture season. Bows, ruffles and frills colour the collection with a sense of unadulterated joy and that Old-Hollywood sensualité.  

Christian Siriano

Christian Siriano’s autumn 2022 show was a true ode d’exubérance. The monochromatic collection, largely in blues – titled Victorian Matrix – is meant to challenge the very physicality and reality of garments. We start from patent-leather suits and dresses, slowly progressing to denim two-pieces and coats. With the progression of the show, the silhouettes get more formal and the colours more restrained. Siriano’s now-classic hooded gown saw itself reinvented once again as the show’s grand finale, worn by the designer’s immutable muse – Coco Rocha.

Brandon Maxwell

Cool and homey – is how one can describe Brandon Maxwell’s autumn 2022 collection. Peak-shouldered shawl necklines on dresses and bustiers are an exciting novelty this season – a new ‘it’ silhouette in the making, perhaps. Gowns, styled with oversized cable-knit sweaters, offer a slightly toned-down and more mature version of Maxwell’s sui generis brand of glamour, switching his typical vocabulary of aspiration with that of relatability. 

Kim Shui

This season, Kim Shui continues exploring the lace and lingerie-adjacent silhouettes – but – with an erotic aughts-inspired twist. The use of colourful tweed in the forms of crop-jackets and bustiers was a lighthearted Chanel reference, while the faux fur lapel details in greens and pastels read more like an homage to Raven-Symoné. Despite the collection presenting itself as ‘cute’, it still felt quite raw – unapologetic use of colour, sequin-clad lace-up pants in military green and a sheer qipao-inspired dress all emphasized the direction of choice exquisitely.

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On February 11^th, New York fashion week returned and blessed us all with the latest collections of the city’s veterans, some fresh faces and enticing guest appearances. 

Here is our picks of the most memorable shows from the day 1 of New York Fashion Week:

Proenza Schouler

Proenza Schouler presentation was, by far, the most anticipated one during the first day of New York fashion week. Designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez reappraised their beloved corseted silhouettes in a context more relaxed (as contradictory as it sounds). The collection was an interpretation of the pandemic-induced ‘comfort and ease’ style canons, as seen from relaxed yet perfectly constructed tailoring and full tulip skirts. McCollough and Hernandez made their stance on sneakers this season clear by deliberately rejecting the staple and, tastefully, replacing it with boxer shoes and precisely-cut leather ballet flats. 

Christian Cowan

Christian Cowan’s ambition to create ‘the highest high-fashion show ever’ paid off – partially due to the presentation taking place at the One World Observatory, overviewing Hudson river, but – mostly – due to the collection itself that could be aptly described as joyfully glamorous. Cowen-beloved sequins and feathers appeared throughout the collection: on the trims of the black blazer dress, gowns, skirts and a bishop blouse even. The feeling of the presentation felt like that point when a gala turns into a party – it profoundly captured the moment where the anticipation of a highbrow bacchanalia reaches its apex, merely seconds before the ball drops. 

Libertine

Surrealism seems to be the buzzword of the season. Libertine embraces the movement and intertwines it with 18th-century and punk references. Most of the prints were designed in-house, with some of them pulled from the archives of the brand’s first show in 2003. Eye and floral motifs rode alongside occasional solid colours – a direction meant to convey – simply – joy. Creative director Johnson Hartig also introduced a range of silk-printed headgear, from bucket hats to tricorns. 

A.Potts

In its Autumn 2022 collection, A.Potts offers its reappraisal of the casual wardrobe. The gender-neutral label leaned into experimentation with its use of boiled wool, velvet and bizarre forms like tentacles attached to the backs of some outfits. Aaron Potts, the brand’s founder, introduced a pleasing palette ranging from blush pinks and oranges to blacks – mostly monochromatic, with occasional animal and abstract prints. The patent leather looks stole the show; Potts managed to construct flattering silhouettes with ruched dresses, bulky coats and capes, attesting to the designer’s ambition to ‘tear down boundaries’.

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New-York-based The Row – founded by the Olsen sisters – introduced its Fall 2022 Ready-to-Wear collection with an updated palette. 

The Row revealed its Fall 2022 Ready-to-Wear collection ahead of the New York Fashion Week. From the 42 looks presented, one could see the Olsen sisters' inventing ways to push the boundaries of the day-to-day nonchalance, while always staying true to the brand’s inner elegant codes. 

We are seeing even more colours infiltrating The Row’s infamous ‘muted wheel’ – a creative choice that first appeared, in a more subtle execution, in the brand’s Spring 2022 collection. The range emulated Mary-Kate and Ashley’s signature blazé garçonness through boxy cuts, dropped shoulders and dramatic scarves favoured by the elder sister in the early aughts. 

The beauty of every The Row collection is in the inherent versatility of its every component – this time – the shockingly vibrant colour palette did not compromise the stylistic opportunities of any garment. The oversized green cardigan – for example – styled with a chocolate-brown maxi skirt will work just as well with the pair of straight-cut wool pants in slate grey or brown or – even – with the navy-blue floor-length coat. Flipping through the lookbook, one cannot miss what can only be interpreted as Olsens’ attempts of veering into eveningwear, as embodied by the beige sleeveless gown with a green scarf as an accessory. Construction of the dress's bodice is excellent – strategically placed gathered details manage to create a flattering shape without leaning into eroticism or suggestiveness. The length of the piece – along with the draping of the heavy fabric – allows for this statuesque posture akin to a column, or, one could describe it as Galatean for the sake of precision and lyricism. 

The accessories presented were even more curious. There were various iterations of the beloved hobo bag in all the shades of tan, of course, but what stuck out like a piece of candy foil in the ashes of a cold fireplace, were the Everett and Margaux bags in gold metallic leather. Embracing the flashiness for just that one instance seemed like a genius way of making the collection look fresh and – dare I say – fun while also maintaining the elevated effortlessness, so sui generis of The Row.

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