Celebrity Life

Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel was the greatest style icon of the 20th century, and her designs continue to shape what we wear today.

Yet the Coco Chanel who emerges from the first exhibition ever dedicated to her work in Paris will come as a shock to fans of her brand's bling.

The creator of the little black dress, tweed suits, two-tone shoes and quilted handbags that are synonymous with French elegance was a very different animal to Karl "the Kaiser" Lagerfeld, who turned her label into a $100 billion business.

While the flamboyant German impressario had a magpie eye for street fashion, the Coco Chanel presented at the new show at the city's fashion museum, the Palais Galliera, was a futurist visionary of almost spartan refinement.

[caption id="attachment_210949" align="alignnone" width="1024"] Creations by French designer Gabrielle Chanel displayed during the exhibition "Gabrielle Chanel, Fashion Manifesto" at the Galliera Palais fashion museum. (Image: Stephane de Sakutin/ AFP)[/caption]

Many of the dresses she designed and wore a century ago are so startlingly modern they could grace the catwalk now. The cliche is that Chanel freed women from the tyranny of Victorian corsetry, borrowing liberally from men's wardrobes to do so.

But for the curators of "Gabrielle Chanel, Fashion Manifesto", an ongoing exhibition at Paris' Palais Galliera that runs till March 14, was only the tip of the iceberg.

Style revolution

Chanel created so much of modern style's DNA that her radicalism has been hiding in plain sight, said the museum's director Miren Arzalluz.

[caption id="attachment_210950" align="alignnone" width="1024"] (Image: Stephane de Sakutin/ AFP)[/caption]

"Even for us it was a surprise how much even we didn't really know her work in depth," she told AFP. "Her style is so timeless and present in our lives... and so ingrained in our collective memory that no one thought it necessary to do a retrospective, because we all thought we knew it."

From her striped "mariniere" sailor top in 1916, to making black the colour of cool, letting women move freely in their clothes and being the first to see the potential of sportswear, her influence is utterly pervasive, Arzalluz argued.

Her Chanel No. 5 perfume, sold in simple square bottles with utilitarian black and ivory labels, was minimalist before minimalism was even a thing. "And her Chanel suits of the 1950s and 1960s were the uniform of modern women," she added.

[caption id="attachment_210953" align="alignnone" width="1024"] (Image: Stephane de Sakutin/ AFP)[/caption]

But it is the breathtaking elegance of her cut and silhouettes which will come as the biggest surprise for those raised on Lagerfeld's showy 36-year reign.

What is also striking, Arzalluz insisted, was how Chanel stuck to her revolutionary guns despite the arrival of Christian Dior's New Look after World War II, with its return to wasp-waist corseted looks. "There's a coherence in her style from the beginning to end," Arzalluz said, in a span that goes from 1912 to her death in 1971.

That this is not shouted from the rooftops more often is partly because of what Chanel did during the war, and her subsequent flight to Switzerland after the liberation.

Don't mention the war

[caption id="attachment_210952" align="alignnone" width="1024"] (Image: Stephane de Sakutin/ AFP)[/caption]

Arzalluz acknowledged her "complex personality", a reference to her "horizontal collaboration" with France's Nazi occupiers, and her attempts to use their anti-Jewish laws to prise back control of Chanel No. 5 from the Wertheimer family who had fled for their lives to the US.

Whole shelves full of biographies have dealt with how Coco spent the war tucked up in The Ritz with her German intelligence officer lover, Baron Hans Gunther von Dincklage.

Which was why Arzalluz said the museum — whose newly opened galleries have been partly funded by Chanel — took the "radical decision to concentrate on her work" rather than her private life. That was best "left to scholars and biographers", she said.

[caption id="attachment_210951" align="alignnone" width="1024"] (Image: Stephane de Sakutin/ AFP)[/caption]

However, Arzalluz was at pains to point out that Chanel was never in thrall to men, a lesson she learned early when he father put her in an orphanage. "I don't like the idea that she discovered everything thanks to the men in her life — that she only used tweeds because of the Duke of Westminster... or her Russian-influenced period was because of (another of her affairs with) Grand Duke Dmitri Pavlovich," the last Russian tsar's cousin, and one of the men who killed Rasputin.

"It is just not true," the curator insisted.

Arzalluz said Chanel was "an avant-gardiste", far ahead of her time pioneering things "we all do now, mixing the ordinary with the chic, the masculine and the feminine, costume jewellery with the real thing.

"The way we dress today, wearing tailored jackets with jeans, or men's shirts, or trainers with airy chiffon dresses" is directly down to her influence, she said.

(All images: Stephane de Sakutin/ AFP)

The post How Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel Forged Much of Modern Style’s DNA appeared first on Prestige Online - Hong Kong.

We've always wondered what it’s like to set foot in Gabrielle Chanel’s apartment in Paris, and to soak in all the magic of the baroque space filled with her favourite things.

According to the artistic director of Chanel, Virginie Viard, the Métiers d’Art collection for 2020 is anchored around Gabrielle Chanel’s apartment at 31 rue Cambon, a sacred temple for the first lady of Chanel and a creative refuge for Viard anytime she’s in need of inspiration.

“Because it’s such a welcoming space. I love the huge sofa in beige suede. Karl (Lagerfeld) liked to surround himself with deep divans too. In fact, Gabrielle’s apartment reminds me of Karl’s first apartment that I knew, where one would sit on four-poster beds disguised as sofas. So, for this Métiers d’art collection, I wanted it to revolve around Gabrielle’s apartment,” she says.

For the collection’s presentation last December at Grand Palais, models were sent down a set constructed by Viard and Sofia Coppola – a long-time friend of the house – and it captured the structure and soul of the apartment to a tee. And from this massive canvas, the tiny details emerged and literally took centrestage. Watch the Paris – 31 rue Cambon 2019/20 Métiers d’art show here.

Upon closer inspection, the painstaking works (which encompasses hundreds of hours!) of the many artisans – embroiderers, feathermakers, paruriers, pleaters, shoemakers, milliners and glovemakers – are absolutely dreamy and heart-stopping.

All the gentle flutter of the feathers, the shimmer of the beads & sequins, the threadwork, and right down to the smallest embellishment seem to be alive and overflowing with artistry.

“There is a sort of simplicity in going back to Chanel’s ABC. We don’t need to do too much,” confides Virginie Viard. “I didn’t want the usual long-distance travelling of the Métiers d’art collections, I wanted to stay in Paris. So, we had to think of a new way of doing things."

"And then there are the codes invented by Gabrielle Chanel and made sublime by Karl Lagerfeld, which I like mixing up too. I like the idea of a patchwork. For me, it has to be on the same level as in real life. I always question the context, which has nothing to do with the way we lived decades ago: what would a woman like today? How would she wear it?”

Staying true to Gabrielle Chanel’s dreams and vision has been the backbone of every single creative output from the House. More details about the Chanel Métiers d’Art 2020 collection here.

This story first appeared on Prestige Malaysia

(Main and featured images: Chanel)

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As we navigate uncertain times, most of us take refuge in things that can help us escape, past time or better off, dream. Books have long been a great way to educationally entertain oneself. They are a special part of the world’s culture, in this particular case, the Fashion culture! If you love or ever […]

The post Styling Your Life With Books & Martine Assouline appeared first on Upscale Living Magazine.

As we navigate uncertain times, most of us take refuge in things that can help us escape, past time or better off, dream. Books have long been a great way to educationally entertain oneself. They are a special part of the world’s culture, in this particular case, the Fashion culture! If you love or ever […]

The post Styling Your Life With Books & Martine Assouline appeared first on Upscale Living Magazine.

Fifty metres underground — this is the depth that local winemakers chose when they decided to store 10,000 wine bottles in the Aven d'Orgnac caves, an underground tourist attraction located at the southern end of the limestone plateau of the Gorges de l'Ardèche.

The experiment began in March 2018, when a new storage facility was specially created in a disused access tunnel to allow wine to mature in what amounts to a highly stable and peaceful environment.

A living product that ages best in undisturbed darkness, the wine will have benefited from ideal conditions: A constant temperature of around 12°C and an all-year-long rate of humidity of over 95%.

On December 12, 1,000 bottles of Côtes du Vivarais "Grand Aven 2017" from this treasure trove will be passed from hand to hand by a chain of human volunteers who will bring them back to the surface after two years underground. Thereafter, they will go under the hammer with a range of other local vintages in an auction with modest reserve prices.

Lots on offer will include 150 magnums of Terra Helvorum 2017 starting at 30 euros, 350 bottles of 2015 Terra Helvorum for as little as 15 euros and 350 bottles of Grand Aven 2016 from just 10 euros.

On land and sea

These days, experiments to store wine deep underground are very much in vogue in France. On June 3 of this year, 500 bottles were placed in racks at a depth of 103 metres in caves in Padirac under the watchful eye of Serge Dubs, the Best Sommelier of the World in 1989.

The first of these to return to the surface will be brought up for an initial tasting in the spring of 2021. And let's not forget that this experiment is focused on a very particular wine: A Clos Triguedina Cahors, christened Cuvée Probus, which has been produced to honour the 130-year anniversary of the Padirac Chasm.

Surprisingly enough, this new approach to maturing wine was initially inspired by a find at sea. In 2010, divers in the Baltic discovered a wreck containing what turned out to be a cargo of champagne, which was probably on its way to 1840s Russia.

The wave of experimentation that is now ongoing began when the bubbly, which was made by such houses as Veuve Clicquot, Heidsieck and the now defunct Juglar, was discovered to still be delicious after some 170 years under water.

In Saint-Jean-de-Luz in the French Basque country, winemaker Emmanuel Poirmeur has registered a patent for a process that involves vinifying wine in special vats at a depth of 15 metres under water. For its part, Leclerc-Briant set a record when it vinified one of its champagnes at a depth of 60 meters under the Atlantic in 2012, not surprisingly the vintage was christened "Abyss."

The post The 7 Handbags of the Season appeared first on Prestige Online - Hong Kong.

Fifty metres underground — this is the depth that local winemakers chose when they decided to store 10,000 wine bottles in the Aven d'Orgnac caves, an underground tourist attraction located at the southern end of the limestone plateau of the Gorges de l'Ardèche.

The experiment began in March 2018, when a new storage facility was specially created in a disused access tunnel to allow wine to mature in what amounts to a highly stable and peaceful environment.

A living product that ages best in undisturbed darkness, the wine will have benefited from ideal conditions: A constant temperature of around 12°C and an all-year-long rate of humidity of over 95%.

On December 12, 1,000 bottles of Côtes du Vivarais "Grand Aven 2017" from this treasure trove will be passed from hand to hand by a chain of human volunteers who will bring them back to the surface after two years underground. Thereafter, they will go under the hammer with a range of other local vintages in an auction with modest reserve prices.

Lots on offer will include 150 magnums of Terra Helvorum 2017 starting at 30 euros, 350 bottles of 2015 Terra Helvorum for as little as 15 euros and 350 bottles of Grand Aven 2016 from just 10 euros.

On land and sea

These days, experiments to store wine deep underground are very much in vogue in France. On June 3 of this year, 500 bottles were placed in racks at a depth of 103 metres in caves in Padirac under the watchful eye of Serge Dubs, the Best Sommelier of the World in 1989.

The first of these to return to the surface will be brought up for an initial tasting in the spring of 2021. And let's not forget that this experiment is focused on a very particular wine: A Clos Triguedina Cahors, christened Cuvée Probus, which has been produced to honour the 130-year anniversary of the Padirac Chasm.

Surprisingly enough, this new approach to maturing wine was initially inspired by a find at sea. In 2010, divers in the Baltic discovered a wreck containing what turned out to be a cargo of champagne, which was probably on its way to 1840s Russia.

The wave of experimentation that is now ongoing began when the bubbly, which was made by such houses as Veuve Clicquot, Heidsieck and the now defunct Juglar, was discovered to still be delicious after some 170 years under water.

In Saint-Jean-de-Luz in the French Basque country, winemaker Emmanuel Poirmeur has registered a patent for a process that involves vinifying wine in special vats at a depth of 15 metres under water. For its part, Leclerc-Briant set a record when it vinified one of its champagnes at a depth of 60 meters under the Atlantic in 2012, not surprisingly the vintage was christened "Abyss."

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When it comes to luxury, you can rest assured that Prestige has it covered.

But with the sheer multitude, let alone variety, released regularly on the landscape, it can become rather difficult to figure out the best from the rest or to even pick up the newest and most exciting. As luck would have it, our editors are forever on the look out: discovering on-the-rise labels, picking up new products from cult brands and the finding the most desirable items there are. So for those that are curious what that might be, keep scrolling to discover what made the cut in our weekly Most Coveted list.

The post Most Coveted: Bvlgari, Chanel, Dom Pérignon, Dior and More appeared first on Prestige Online - Hong Kong.

Not a fan of those bulky, somewhat masculine, watches that are designed and produced with a gentleman in mind, but just made a wee bit smaller to suit a women's wrist?

We hear you. That's why we've shortlisted the latest women's watches, made for women, and selected a few of favourites. From bejewelled timepieces to chic, edgy varieties, here are 5 watches from Chanel, Graff, Dior, Cartier and Piaget that we are sure the ladies will take a liking to.

La Mini D De Dior

This La Mini D De Dior Satine is designed to be like a satin ribbon, and comes in a 19mm diameter steel case and Milanese mesh steel bracelet with a flexibility and sheen that makes it quite accurately a metallic fabric. The delicate watch comes with a pink mother-of-pearl dial and a crown set with diamonds. Meanwhile, its bezel is delicately accentuated with a textured pattern echoing the mesh bracelet's theme.

Chanel Mademoiselle Privé Bouton

Chanel pays tribute to the unassuming button in the most extravagant way possible with the Mademoiselle Privé Bouton. Gabrielle Coco Chanel held a fascination for military clothing and sailor’s uniforms, taking particular interest in their buttons, seeing them beyond its mere function and as adornments that punctuated suits. Accentuated by a golden braid, the black tweed cuff of the Mademoiselle Privé Bouton watch clasps unto the wrist via a pearl button that conceals a diamond-set dial. From the pearl, carved gold lion and Byzantine motif, to the camellia made in diamonds and the profile of Gabrielle Chanel -- each represent the maison’s symbols and celebrate its craftsmanship.

Graff  Yellow Diamond Jewellery Watch

Touted as the most luxurious diamond timepiece this year, this jewellery watch by Graff features a dial fully set with yellow diamonds surrounded by 14 immaculate cushion-cut yellow diamonds and a bracelet set with flawless white diamonds.

Maillon de Cartier

The Maillon de Cartier, with its rectangular links, hexagonal dial, and bevelled brancard is Cartier's stunningly artistic, Art Deco-esque watch that is both edgy, chic and wonderfully feminine. This version is crafted in yellow gold, and its crown is set with a brilliant-cut diamond. The case and bracelet is set with 580 brilliant-cut diamonds totalling close to 10 carats, and comes with a black lacquer dial.

Piaget Limelight Gala 

Piaget’s Limelight Gala with its sensual curves, cambered case and asymmetrical lugs that extend on either side of the case onto the bracelet, is inspired by the elegant spirit of the 1960s. Its modern interpretation stays faithful to the original design, with an integrated case and lugs combined with a swirl of exquisite gemstones, ornate dials, and sumptuous gold bracelets. This version with an aventurine dial has a bezel set with white diamonds using the Serti Descendu technique, and will be produced in limited numbers.

The post The 5 Luxury Women’s Watches We Love Right Now appeared first on Prestige Online - Hong Kong.

Paris Haute Couture week went digital for the first time in history in 2020.

This year has been tough for fashion, with cancelled shows, big events and international travel at a standstill. Whilst designers, studios and ateliers have returned to work, it's impossible to ignore the great big reset, both needed and wanted, in the world of style.

Since couture represents the highest echelons of luxury, and the most expensive sector of the industry, which is accessible to only a handful of the 1%, this season can be sort of confronting in another way. Haute couture however corners the notion of ultimate fantasy, extreme beauty, painstaking craft and the great escape -- the latter being something we could all delve into at the moment. And designers are indeed inviting us to dream, inspiring our imaginations to run wild. Instead of traditional shows and celebrity front rows, we have films and arguably the change in format can reveal another dimension from brands depending on how creative they choose to be. Ahead is our pick of the Paris Autumn Winter 20/21 couture collections.

Christian Dior

A 14 minute cinematic undertaking directed by Matteo Garrone at Christian Dior is one of the season’s most ambitious. A pair of uniformed bellboys carry a trunk of miniature designs through an enchanted forest inhabited by a host of ethereal characters straight out of Greek Mythologies. Mermaids, marble statues, narcissus, gods and goddesses donning Maria Grazia Chiuri’s couture is just the fantastical breath of fresh air we need.

Chanel

The short film shot in high contrast showing Chanel’s key couture looks was followed by mini docs focusing inside the ateliers by Loic Prigent. Here, rebellious opulence came in ruched taffeta satins, adorned belts and details that sparkled like jewellery: “a punk princess coming out of ‘Le Palace’ at dawn,” as Virginie Viard says. Floral appliques made for sculptural pieces and those wide collars created a sense of vintage regal drama. There’s a big focus on showing off the embroidery capabilities of the atelier here, but for us it was those slimline silhouettes and sparkling tweeds that really stole the show. A very contemporary take on couture at Chanel this season.

Schiaparelli

A lovely narrative of design with Creative Director Daniel Roseberry as the camera follows the designer, donning a mask and heading to the Place Vendome headquarters in Paris -- a nod to the current times. He sketches wonderful creations of the season on the green streets of the city, the capital of haute couture. The references to Elsa Schiaparelli’s signature surrealism were evident in his stylised drawings, and Roseberry’s interpretation were wonderful. Overall, the film gave a quirky, intimate insight into his process.

Ralph & Russo

2020 marks 10 years of this London-based couture house. Creative director Tamara Ralph coloured the collection with vibrant tones reflecting nature’s palette: sunshine yellows and golds, hot floral pinks, sky blues and lavender. The video released by the brand is a behind the scenes view of the atelier and craft, showing Ralph’s development of watercolour and modern digital prints. Ultra feminine silhouettes come with intricate flourishes such as 3D organza blooms, embellishments and swathes of floral taffeta. Again nodding to digital tech futurism, the label introduced an avatar for the season: the strong and sexy Hauli.

Valentino

The brand is set to broadcast a special show and live performance from Rome’s Cinecetta for Haute Couture Fall Winter 2020-21 by Pier Paolo Piccioli with Nick Knight. A exploration of human and digital interaction “ transcended through grace and lightness” and an expression of the inner values of Couture: creativity, imagination and emotion. The event will be live on digital channels and presented in person to a small selection of Italy-based fashion editors. An abstract teaser by Nick Knight might set the mood first.

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A 2.55 bag, a camellia, a tweed jacket: Spot your favourite house motif in the delightful patterns.

The post Chanel celebrates the 20th anniversary of its J12 watch with enamelled J12∙20 models appeared first on The Peak Magazine.